Stellar Sips n' Salty Snacks
Nashville sommeliers are embracing high-low pairings with elegant small bites and versatile wines.
As palates change and diners drink less, sommeliers across the country are facing a challenge: How do they showcase quality without compromising comfort? In Nashville, many are building on the high-low theory, pairing fine wines with finger-licking foods.
Sommelier Nicole Tate of Sauced
Roasted Onion-Sour Cream Dip, Tobiko, Furikake-Coated Kettle Potato Chips paired with Riesling, Ulli Stein, Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Mosel, Germany, 2024
Although originally based out of Brooklyn, the Nashville location of Sauced has been forging its own relationship with the local community. Building on that mission, Sommelier Nicole Tate tackles her wine pairings with a similarly welcoming approach, focusing on nostalgia and balance above all else. “I like to approach things with a yin-yang perspective. Both the beverage and the dish make you want the other more,” says Tate. “Pairings are everywhere from the time we are born; it's not just wine.” This attitude inspired her to pair furikake-coated potato chips and a sour cream and roasted onion dip topped with tobiko with Ulli Stein’s 2024 Himmelreich Riesling. “Stein's wine has the perfect amount of acid and sweetness to give that soda-like tartness that cuts through the umami and creaminess,” says Tate. “The wine's minerality complements the saltiness of the tobiko topping the dip. Both elevated items hit the same as salted nuts and light beer at your neighborhood bar.” The refreshing, dynamic wine plays into the casual format of the dish. But like the dish—with rich umami from the alliums in the dip and the furikake—the wine flexes elegance without appearing too distant. “Nashville is a young town with a growing wine community,” adds Tate. “Showcasing a wine with an approachable sweetness level and an interesting take on chips and dip makes it easier for guests to buy in.”
Sommelier Austin Krudys of The Chloe
Tasso Ham, Pimento Cheese, Pickled Vegetables, Mustard, Chives, Fried Saltines paired with Muscat, Elio Perrone, Sourgal, Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy, 2024
“Pairing wines with more casual fare often feels simpler because the flavor profiles are more direct and uncomplicated,” says Sommelier Austin Krudys, but “I particularly enjoy ‘high-low’ combinations, as they create some of my favorite tasting experiences.” At The Chloe, Krudys proves this point by pairing the restaurant’s tasso ham plate—which comes with pimento cheese, pickled vegetables, mustard, and fried saltines—with Elio Perrone’s 2024 Sourgal Moscato d’Asti. “I sought a wine capable of harmonizing with every ingredient on the plate,” says Krudys. “The wine's sweetness effectively balances the spice and acidity, while its profile serves as an ideal palate cleanser for the creamy pimento cheese and crispy fried saltines.” For sommeliers like Krudys, the surprising nature and approachability of the pairing is what draws in both peers and guests, and makes wine feel more understandable and light-hearted. “I believe wine is becoming more mainstream and more accessible to the average consumer,” says Krudys. “This evolution is largely fueled by dedicated professionals in the wine and restaurant industries who work to introduce people to exceptional products. I am constantly searching for delicious, cost-effective wines to share with my guests.”
Sommelier Derick Spangler of The Twelve Thirty Club
Truffle Butter-Poached Lobster, Toasted Buttermilk Focaccia, Herbs paired with Albariño, Granbazán, Etiqueta Ámbar, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2022
At The Twelve Thirty Club on Broadway, the scale and allure of the restaurant may seem intimidating, but Sommelier Derick Spangler is eager to show another side to the space. His beverage program and wine pairings cast a wide net and include an option for all kinds of drinkers. “While doing food and wine pairings with very exclusive ingredients is cool, it doesn’t help the industry get wine on the table for a Tuesday night,” he says. Spangler put his philosophy into practice with a pairing that is all about impact and amplifying flavor. Truffle butter-poached lobster and toasted focaccia are accentuated by a glass of Granbazán’s 2022 Etiqueta Ámbar albariño. “The Etiqueta Ámbar is a reserve bottling for Granbazán,” says Spangler. “That means older vines, more lees aging, and more bâtonnage, which creates a rich, round, powerful wine compared to a more entry-level albariño.” The wine and the dish have “the same personality. They are both light and refreshing, while at the same time rich and complex. They are a couple that brings out all of the best qualities in each other.” While the dish is decadent in its own right, the wine provides a surprising level of depth, showcasing a side to albariño that is less common. For Spangler, moments like these are an opportunity to connect with guests and build a lasting impression. “I find it easier to pair wines with more casual or familiar foods—I actually prefer it,” says Spangler. “People are drinking less across the country. Many professionals see this as a negative impact on the industry. I view this decline in quantity to be an opportunity for quality.”
