Dear Nashville

ESSAY

Aug 7

Arnold Myint’s letter to the Nashville hospitality community

You don’t have to grow up as a restaurant kid like me to recognize that there’s been tremendous growth in Nashville’s dining scene. But as developing neighborhoods and shiny new concepts seemingly pop up every week, I still remember a time when one could hold the small number of memorable local dining options in one hand.

Though the roster of our city’s leading tastemakers is much larger now, and many of the favorite spots from my youth are just a memory, it’s important to celebrate, recognize, and perhaps reintroduce what I consider to be the staples, founders, and legends that helped create a delicious Nashville in the first place.

At a time when our food scene took a back seat to the grit, hustle, and sound of aspiring artists and misfits, a few Nashville standouts were my “Spice of Life” and gateway to a world outside of the city. There was late-night elephant garlic Mediterranean platters at Chef Randy Rayburn’s Sunset Grill; Chef Deb Paquette’s paella at Zola; Mirror’s blue cheese polenta fries; an iconic bean roll from Gold Rush; Becker’s Bakery birthday cake; and the hoe cakes with Boursin and caviar that I proudly served at 12th and Porter.

The evolution of Music City’s thriving food movement, for me, is both a bittersweet and nostalgic one.

As a child, I ran around my parents’ International Market, climbing rice bags and watching my mother work seven days a week from morning to night. Mom’s food was unfamiliar to Nashville at the time and was often a hard sell. But beyond the plate, it was her charm, grace, and commitment to unapologetically sharing her culture that kept the business thriving for decades. It was the familial relationships she built by simply creating a safe haven for all that was the most unintentional masterclass in hospitality.

These days, there are too many restaurants to list when considering dining options. But to be very candid, what I’ve noticed is that, though establishments are bountiful, not many immediately draw me in. The ones that do aren’t necessarily the trendy new spots but rather places with inspired menus and a fully realized identity that contributes to our diverse culinary landscape.

Nashville is surely a food city now. I am honored to be in a place in my career where I can reflect on the decades of experiences and impact made by many of my culinary peers, idols, and local visionaries. I’m also grateful to still be cooking alongside the new generation of incredible talent that keeps things exciting and has pushed our city to the cusp of greatness. What used to be new is now the norm. The vocabulary of chef-driven concepts has become a common language. Our consumers are more savvy. This definitely makes my job easier, and that’s wonderful progress.

As Nashville continues to grow, I welcome our evolution. But I also acknowledge that new isn’t always better. I understand that our industry is built to cater to a broad spectrum of expectations. And as there is no standard formula or measure for success, for me, the stories behind the food, the daily hustle, and the relationships birthed at the dining table are what build a timeless food community—one where hype may help garner attention, but where legacy and loyalty sustain our shelf life. May we continue to support each other on this delicious journey together.

— Arnold Myint
Chef/Owner, International Market