Crumpet
Pecorino Romano PDO, Squash Conserva, Popcorn Powder
Chefs Paul Butler and Kelcey Rusch of Spoke Wine Bar | Somerville, MA
“This dish is our take on a bread course or bar snack. There is Pecorino Romano PDO in the crumpet batter, which contributes a persistent cheesy quality to the resulting bread, and using sourdough helps complement the bright, lactic notes from the cheese itself. It’s the perfect sponge for the squash preserve with the additional toasted Pecorino Romano PDO adding subtle texture and a final intensity to the bite. We also included dried orange peel for a zesty, floral note; a tiny bit of green Sichuan pepper to back up the funk of the cheese; and fennel and oregano to ground the whole thing in familiar flavors.” — Chef Kelsey Rusch
Adapted by StarChefs | July 2025 | Photo: Brian Samuels
INGREDIENTS
Popcorn Powder:
¼ cup popcorn kernels, popped
½ cup grated Pecorino Romano PDO
Dried peel of 2 clementines
¼ teaspoon green Szechuan peppercorns
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon ground oregano
¼ teaspoon fennel pollen
Pecorino Romano PDO Crumpets:
Yield: Four 3-inch crumpets
200 grams sourdough starter
30 grams semolina flour
20 grams granulated sugar
8 grams kosher salt
35 grams grated Pecorino Romano PDO
3 grams baking soda
Squash Conserva:
Yield: 1 quart
Three 6-inch summer squash, thinly sliced
325 milliliters rice vinegar
200 milliliters olive oil
100 grams granulated sugar
40 grams kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground rosemary
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground oregano
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground fennel
100 milliliters neutral oil
METHOD
For the Popcorn Powder:
Heat oven to 325°F. In a blender, blitz popcorn until a fine dust is achieved. Set aside. Using a spice grinder, process clementine peels, peppercorns, and oregano. Set aside. Spread Pecorino Romano PDO on a silicone-lined sheet tray and bake until golden. Let cool. Transfer toasted cheese to a clean blender and pulse with half of the popcorn powder until well combined. Transfer to an airtight container. Add spices and fennel pollen. Reserve.
For the Pecorino Romano PDO Crumpets:
In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and 65 grams water until a thick, pancake batter-like consistency is achieved. Let rest 15 minutes at room temperature. In a pan over low flame, heat four 3-inch ring molds. Spray with nonstick spray. Spoon batter into molds, filling up two-thirds of the way. When batter has risen to the top of the mold and bubbles have started popping, flip, and continue to cook until desired doneness is achieved. Remove from heat. Let cool, then remove molds. Set aside.
For the Squash Conserva:
Place squash in a nonreactive container and set aside. In a saucepan, bring vinegar, sugar, olive oil, salt, and 150 milliliters water to a boil. Pour over sliced squash. Let sit 1 hour at room temperature. Strain, discarding liquid. Transfer squash to a mixing bowl and set aside. In a sauté pan over medium flame, heat oil. Add spices and toast until fragrant. Add to bowl with squash and toss to coat. Set aside.
To Assemble and Serve:
Heat oven to 300°F. Slice 1 Pecorino Romano PDO Crumpet in half horizontally and transfer to a parchment-lined sheet tray. Bake until warmed through. Transfer to the center of a serving plate. Cover with Squash Conserva. Finish with generous dusting Popcorn Powder.
