Sungolds and Snails
Chef Bruno Enciso's Parisian gnocchi with a touch of funk and fermentation at Lutèce
Chef Bruno Enciso’s Parisian Gnocchi, Escargot, Fermented Sungold Tomato Sauce, Chanterelles, White Wine-Garlic Butter, Squash Blossom Petals, Parsley, TarragoN at Lutèce | Photos: Will Blunt
Years ago, Thomas Keller brought Parisian gnocchi into the American culinary zeitgeist. Today, Bruno Enciso, chef de cuisine at Washington, D.C.’s Lutèce, is stretching the boundaries of this delicate dish’s possibilities.
“Lutèce is unlike anywhere I’ve ever worked, because our executive chef, Matt [Conroy], has instilled a strong sense of working with the seasons, meaning we rapidly rely on change for inspiration,” says Enciso. “We are encouraged to not repeat ourselves.”
Drawing on Keller’s original dish at Bouchon Bistro, which traditionally uses choux pastry seasoned with Comté, Dijon, and fine herbs, Enciso heeded Conroy’s call and pushed his version forward, using summer flavors and seasonal ingredients to personalize the composed plate.
FERMENTATION
While the Parisian gnocchi had already been on the menu before he joined the team, Enciso created a summer iteration of the neo-bistro’s staple using fermented Sungold tomatoes to add an unctuous, cheese-like flavor. “It almost tastes like yellow cheddar—it was a hit. Our diners loved it,” adds Enciso.
It begins with a five-day fermentation of the tomatoes, where the fruit is vacuum sealed with two-percent of its weight in salt. After fermenting, the tomatoes are blended with cold, cubed unsalted butter to emulsify the sauce. “It’s very cheese-like because of all the MSG that's in the tomato and how it breaks down and mingles with the salt,” says Enciso.
Chef Bruno Enciso of Lutèce
Chef Bruno Enciso’s Parisian Gnocchi, Escargot, Fermented Sungold Tomato Sauce, Chanterelles, White Wine-Garlic Butter, Squash Blossom Petals, Parsley, TarragoN at Lutèce
PASTA AND ESGARGOT
The gnocchi dumplings are made with a pâte à choux dough using flour, water, butter, salt, and “lots” of eggs, says Enciso. It’s then seasoned with Dijon mustard, chives, thyme, chervil, and tarragon, and mixed with Comté. The formed dumplings are then poached in salted water and reserved. The other key component to the Parisian gnocchi is the escargot. “You have to braise the escargot, and make sure it's tender,” says Enciso. “Our braise consists of a huge rondeau pan filled with butter, onions, and herbs, and then we pour court-bouillon and white wine over the escargot in a cartouche.” The braising liquid is then saved, and the escargot is cooled down and stored in it. The gnocchi, meanwhile, are pan-fried over medium heat with savory chanterelle mushrooms.
CONSTRUCTION
The final dish is assembled in a ceramic bowl with the pan-fried gnocchi and mushrooms forming the base, along with a ladle full of the fermented tomato sauce. Five or six pieces of escargot are layered over the top along with breadcrumbs, squash blossom petals, and Lutèce’s signature finishing seasonings: lemon juice, salt, cracked black pepper, and chives. “I remember Bastille Day when we debuted this dish. The team was just pushing, and everybody in that building had a very high energy that was contagious,” says Enciso. “We were all very happy with how it turned out.”
