Dear Miami
Chefs Nando and Valerie Chang’s letters to the Miami hospitality community
Illustration: Rachel Krohn
The South has something to say. This Miami is different. This Miami is distinguishable. This Miami is a whole different animal. Timid yet ferociously proud. That is how I describe the type of greatness I am sure is in this class. The South has something to say. Immigrants have something to say. Miami has something to say
My father fell in love with making sushi at a place called Matsuri in the early 90’s. As a young immigrant who was hell-bent on making enough money to send back to his kids in Chiclayo, Peru, he found solace in the strength of this discipline.
In 2018, Valerie and I opened Itamae in a food hall and we’ve never looked back, not because the story ends at happily ever after, but because—just like this wonderful city—we are still working, still hustling, still evolving, still making changes, still growing and adapting, still not satisfied. This city is full of wonderful people and stories that deserve all of our support and admiration. I am so grateful for my journey, and we as a family are so grateful to have found a home after fleeing from our first one. To see Miami now becoming a home to so many others is a wonderful thing. Miami is my American Dream. Love you forever, 305.
– Nando Chang
As I sit here at 33 years old, thinking of our restaurants—places I love and that have given me enough pride to last a lifetime, along with endless tears and grey hairs—what I can say is this: Miami will forever be home.
It’s been an honor to be part of this culinary community since 2001. From opening our first restaurant to making donuts at 3AM, to reuniting with my brother to help our dad open his little sushi bar upstairs in the Design District—every step has been a part of my evolving Miami story. And here we are now.
To my peers, know this: your love for food and creativity is boundless. Your culture, heritage, and nostalgia are just as vital to shaping this beautifully diverse culinary community as any of the bold, flashy Miami things. We stand on the groundwork laid by great chefs before us—chefs like Norman Van Aken, who shows us how to be playful while staying committed to the growth of all generations after him, and Allen Susser, who carries an incredible knowledge of our soil and seasonality. And of course, Michelle Bernstein, a fearless Latina leader who continues to inspire not only with her boldness, but with her relentless drive to reinvent and create timeless classics. Their contributions remind us that we are part of something much bigger, and the story is still unfolding.
If there’s one thing I hope you take away, it’s that this industry is transforming right before our eyes—so enjoy every fleeting moment. We live in a beautiful city, and it’s easy to forget that nothing lasts forever. People will come and go, but we will always be here—pushing forward, building, and leaving pieces of ourselves in this city as we go.
Many of us will open and close, just like those before us. Don’t be afraid to keep going or to start over as many times as you require. Don’t let overwhelming rents or inevitable mistakes hold you back. And if you choose to explore new paths, always carry a piece of Miami with you. Mistakes will be made, but the most important thing is to ask for advice when you need it, recognize those mistakes, and always strive to do better. As your previous employees embark on their own journeys and open their spaces, support them as much as you can.
Don’t fear failure. And if you do fail, remember that it happened under a beautiful sky. Growth doesn’t come without challenges. Every setback is just another step toward something greater. Like every Miami summer, the sunshine always follows the rain.
– Valerie Chang
