Parnass Savang’s Dear Atlanta
Chef Parnass Savang of Talat Market's letter to the Atlanta restaurant community
Illustration: Bashel Lubarsky
Atlanta is home. I’ve tried putting roots down in Portland, Oregon, Bangkok, and New York City, but those places never worked out for me—I always wanted to come back to Atlanta. I've seen this town when its food scene seemed like it was nonexistent, like it didn't even have a food identity. No one was making the food I wanted to see, but this is my hometown, so I knew I wanted to invest in this city. The relationships that I’ve slowly developed over the last 10 years with those in the hospitality community have been some of the biggest rewards of my career. I am here for the long haul.
The community here is growing. There are farmers, chefs, bartenders, and artisans who are working to add something new to the Atlanta food scene. We’re seeing a new generation of diners; those who are interested in more than just classic Southern food. Their palates have changed, and they’re looking for different cuisines and flavors. Southern cooking has changed too. I’ve seen how it has evolved over the years to encompass more global flavors, reflecting our diverse city, thanks to Atlanta’s small businesses—those that have thrown themselves into the lion’s den to do what they believe in and make their mark. We can’t forget about the mom and pop spots—the international restaurants of Buford Highway and beyond—whose cooking has without a doubt influenced the Atlanta food scene, and whose love for food has seeped into the new wave of diners and chefs, myself included.
Atlanta's next generation of chefs are hungry. They want to provide something different, and are grinding it out, pushing day by day until they can open up their own spots. I want to shine a light on the risk takers and their crazy ideas: the pop-ups. Pop-ups are a crucial part of keeping the restaurant scene relevant and exciting. A lot of the younger aspiring pop-up chefs have attachments to Atlanta, to its history. These young chefs want to invest in the community and diversify the food landscape. They want to create spaces that don't exist here right now. They’re playing with experimental ideas that would be too niche to test out in the confines of someone else’s kitchen. Chefs, more than ever, are staying true to their concepts instead of prioritizing money and recognition. Keep going. We need you.
Atlanta is my home, and I believe in it. The future looks bright, and I’m excited to see new talent open their spots, and current restaurants renovate and grow. I want to see more cooks make food that they’re excited about, rather than cooking what they think the public wants. There are a lot of talented chefs working right now who are in their shell, and to them I say: cook for yourself. Take big risks, but be smart about it. We need dreamers and hard working people to push the boundaries. You’re always going to want to wait for the perfect time, but your time is now.
