The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 234
April 30, 2011
1. Letter from the Editor Vol. 73: Portland and the Pioneer Spirit
2.  It's a Wrap: Perfecting Japanese Gyoza
3.  Cocktail Pairings at Clyde Common
4.  The Mother of Mother's
5.  Act Now to Get Discounted ICC Passes
6.  Photo Galleries from Our Recent Tastings
7.  Featured Video: Behind the Scenes at Intellectual Ventures
8.  Featured Cookbook: Mother's Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again
9.  Top 10 Jobs from the's JobFinder
10.  Featured Chef to Know: Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant & Bar - Portland, OR
11.  Recipe for Candied Beet, Bavarian Malt, Frozen "Curdled" Cream, and Lemon Balm from Chef Matthew Lightner of Castagna - Portland, OR magazine for culinary insiders. Visit


 1. Letter from the Editor Vol. 73: Portland and the Pioneer Spirit
The industry's getting its hands dirty in Portland, a city of owner-operators, house-made maniacs, perfectionists, and pioneers.
 2. It's a Wrap: Perfecting Japanese Gyoza
Chef Gabe Rosen is crafting cross-cultural culinary magic: Japanese cuisine with Italian machinery for the ultimate gyoza at Biwa.
 3. Cocktail Pairings at Clyde Common
Boozy balance: matching the art of the cocktailian and culinarian at Portland's Clyde Common.
 4. The Mother of Mother's
Chef Lisa Schroeder left the "big leagues" behind to bring maternity, serious culinary maturity, and business savvy tableside at Mother's.
 5. Act Now to Get Discounted ICC Passes
The ICC discount countdown continues-and time is running out! Working Restaurant Passes are $350 until June 30, $395 until July 30, and $450 after August 1.
 6. Photo Galleries from Our Recent Tastings
Photo Galleries from our recent tastings at Mother's, Clyde Common, Hotel Fifty, and more in Portland, OR, and events like the Cherry Blossom Festival Menu Preview at Matsuri and Daniel Boulud's Hard Hat Tour & Taste at Boulud Sud and Epicerie Boulud.
 7. Featured Video: Behind the Scenes at Intellectual Ventures
Modernist Cuisine author and mad-scientist foodie Dr. Nathan Myhrvold showcases his ground-breaking (and shelf-breaking) book's tech-meets-taste genius.
 8. Featured Cookbook: Mother's Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again
Lisa Schroeder with Danielle Centoni
November 2009
Lisa Schroeder changed careers at 35, enrolling at the Culinary Institute of America, working long hours in multiple restaurants, and finally starting the upscale comfort-food mecca Mother's Bistro & Bar in Portland 10 years ago. From this outpost, Schroeder combines her culinary training at one of the country's most respected programs with a deep respect for the homey satisfaction of mothers' recipes from all over. Just as her restaurant bridges the gap between the casual, traditional style of home cooking and the savvy of a working chef, Schroeder's book offers tips (called "Love Notes") to explain the winning techniques behind her mom-inspired, chef-executed recipes. With 150 dishes from the restaurant, Mother's Best promises to bring rustic, simple, home style cuisine to a mother's kitchen near you.
 9. Top 10 Jobs from the's JobFinder
Executive Chef
Join America's New Food Eden - Portland Beckons
BCR, Bruce Carey Restaurants
Portland, OR

Line Cooks
Seeking Motivated BOH with Fine Dining Cooking Experience to Join our Team
Contemporary Japanese Restaurant
Austin, TX

Line Cook
Quality-Driven Line Cooks Wanted for Award Winning Wilderness Lodge
Burntside Lodge
Burntside Lake, Ely, MN

Kitchen Supervisor
Confident, Talented Manager Wanted: Excellent Benefits & Growth!
Marriott Hotel and Marina
San Diego, CA

Chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo Hiring Super Passionate Career Cooks
Son of a Gun
Los Angeles, CA

Executive Chef
Wine Country Resort Seeks Highly Motivated, Performance Oriented Chef
Adelina's Bistro & Market Place at Trilogy Monarch Dunes Resort
Nipomo, CA

Executive Sous Chef
Help Run Creative, Awarded, Locally Sourced Aspen Kitchen
The Little Nell Hotel
Aspen, CO

Amazing Opportunity for Chef/Partner of New Modern Mexican/LA Taqueria
Los Angeles, CA

Executive Chef
Seasonal & Progressive American Restaurant Needs Creative, Experienced Chef
David Rockwell Designed Restaurant

Chef de Cuisine
Work at Landmark Restaurant in World Class Skiing Town - Amazing Benefits!
Snake River Grill
Jackson Hole, WY
 10. Featured Chef to Know: Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant & Bar - Portland, OR
1239 Southwest Broadway
Portland, OR 97205
(503) 222-9070

Seats: 85-145
Weeknight Covers: 150
Weekend Covers: 230
Check Average (with Wine): $50
Tasting Menu: No
Kitchen Staff: 5

Cuisine: Northwest sustainable organic
Born: 1958
Began Career: 1972
Stages: France: Les Vosges
Work History: France: Les Vosges, La Cote d'Or; Seattle, WA: Fullers; Portland, OR: The Heathman Restaurant
Mentor(s): Joseph Matter, Alice Waters, Michael Wild
Protégée(s): Scott Dolich, Vito DiLullo, Brad Root, Rich Meyer
Awards: 2004 DiRoNA Restaurant Hall of Fame; 2001 James Beard Foundation Best Chef Northwest/Hawaii
Affiliations: Chefs Collaborative, Slow Food
Languages Spoken: French, Spanish

NOTABLE DISHES: Tagine of Alaskan Halibut with Saffron Couscous, Almonds, and Harissa

Restaurant Recs: Alba Osteria for Agnolotti dal Plin
Kitchen Tool(s): Mortar and pestle because it makes great sauces
Interview Question: What do you know about us?
Flavor Combo(s): Strong aromatic contrasts with full deep background of flavors. For example: seared and roasted wild salmon with a contrasting relish of chilies and aromatic herbs.
Fave Cookbook(s): Honey from a Weed by Patience Gray
Chef to Cook for You: Kazumasa Kitajima of Riute Restaurant outside of Fukuoka, Kyushu Japan. Incredible organic Inaka-style Kaiseki Ryori, all presented on the pottery of Japan's living masters
Culinary Travel: My most recent trip was to New Zealand, prior to that Extremadura, Alsace, Crete, Apulia, get the idea.
Steelite 11. Recipe for Candied Beet, Bavarian Malt, Frozen "Curdled" Cream, and Lemon Balm from Chef Matthew Lightner of Castagna - Portland, OR
Adapted by

April 2011

Grapefruit-Beet Sorbet:
1 kilogram cooked beets
350 milliliters grapefruit juice
125 grams of sugar
100 milliliters water
2 grams salt

Candied Beet:
½ kilogram beets
1 liter water, mixed with 30 grams hydrated lime
500 grams sugar
2 liters water, plus more for cooking

Bavarian Malt:
5 grams black malt powder
100 grams water
100 grams sugar
½ gram baking soda

Brown Butter Sable:
225 grams butter, cold and cut small dice
150 grams sugar
479 grams all-purpose flour
155 grams almond
80 grams warmed brown butter

Frozen "Curdled" Cream:
250 milliliters fresh high quality cream
25 grams sugar

To Assemble and Serve:
Grapefruit segments
Fresh lemon balm

For the Grapefruit-Beet Sorbet:
Puree the beets with the grapefruit juice, sugar, water, and salt; freeze in a Pacojet following the manufacturer's instructions. Reserve.

For the Candied Beet:
Peel, break, and soak the beets for three hours in the lime mixture. Meanwhile, dissolve the sugar in the water to create a simple syrup. Cook the soaked beets in the simple syrup, adding double the water back into the pot and reducing to a syrup three times. Dry the cooked beets on dehydrator rack for 3 hours at 55°F. Reserve.

For the Bavarian Malt:
Mix the black malt with the water to dissolve thoroughly. Add the sugar and cook to the hard crack stage. Add the baking soda immediately. Pour the mixture onto a lined sheet tray and allow it to harden before breaking it into the texture of small powder.

For the Brown Butter Sable:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine all the dry ingredients in a food processor and gently cut in the cold butter. Once the butter has been well incorporated, spread the mixture on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown, roughly 25 minutes. Cool the mixture on a speed rack; once cooled, blend it back into the food processor with the warmed brown butter. Spoon the runny sable mixture into the shape of a disc onto small patty papers, roughly 4 inches in diameter; refrigerate to set.

For the Frozen "Curdled" Cream:
Whip the cream with the sugar until you reach soft peaks; using liquid nitrogen, freeze the whipped cream and break into small frozen "curds." Reserve in the freezer.

To Assemble and Serve:
Plate a small spoonful of Bavarian Malt. Add 4 pieces of the Candied Beet Root, 1 segment of grapefruit, and 2 sprigs of fresh lemon balm. Add a small scoop of Grapefruit-Beet Sorbet into the middle of the beets and cover with the Brown Butter Sable. Using a torch, lightly melt the sable over the sorbet. Finish with the Frozen Curdled Cream.
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