The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 195
February 8, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE magazine for culinary insiders. Visit

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 1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 57: Share the Love
It's that time of year again when culinary minds turn to chocolate, oysters, and other aphrodisiacal ingredients to draw in the amorous Valentine couples-not to mention, rake in some serious cash on one of the most profitable restaurant days of the year. And the love extends beyond V-Day: read about chef clubs, charitable involvement, and more!
 2. Valentine's Day Menus for Modern Dining at DuMont and Dressler
Valentine's Day menus are typically weighed down by traditional-and often high-cost-flourishes. But 2009 Rising Star Restaurateur Colin Devlin [link to page] thinks the modern diner is craving something more comforting and less showy this February 14th. The holiday menus for his Brooklyn hot spots DuMont and Dressler showcase the kind of rustic gourmet sensibility that Devlin believes will draw in the happy couples.
 3. Love Potions Vol. 11: Mixing Up Romance Behind the Bar
The relationship between cocktails and courtship is potent, and at Valentine's Day it becomes even more pronounced as friends and lovers search for the perfect beverage to toast romance. Mixologists across the country respond to the celebratory mood with fresh, occasion-friendly recipes that are variously aphrodisiac, sultry, stimulating, and satisfying.
 4. Chefs Get Involved in their Communities
From the casual monthly midnight dinners held by Daniel Boulud years ago to the friendly cooking challenges among chef communities today, the "chef club" has long been a source of release, relaxation, and loads of new information for the professional chef. Here we take a closer look at different chef clubs around the country-from occasional and casual to formed and formal.
chef Hospitality  5. Hospitality One Step Further: Chefs' Charitable Outreach
Across the country, chefs and restaurant professionals at all echelons are becoming more and more involved in charitable outreach-and the word is spreading well beyond the realm of celebrity chefdom. It's no surprise, considering the restaurant industry is especially qualified to provide a key element of charitable outreach-good food. Hear all about the benefits, personal and professional, from industry pros who've made outreach a priority in their work.
 6. The 2010 LA - San Diego Rising Stars: Who They Are and Why They Shine is proud to announce the 2010 Los Angeles - San Diego Rising Stars! This list represents the brightest up-and-coming culinary stars from top restaurants from San Diego to Los Angeles. Join us as we celebrate their talents with a gala walk-around tasting on Thursday, March 18, 2010 from 7:00-9:30pm at The Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows. Tickets are $95 per person; VIP $150. VIP includes a pre-event reception and early entrance to the gala.
 7. Plan Your Trip to Rising Stars with the Fairmont Hotel Travel Special
Don't leave your travel plans to the last minute! For attendees of the Los Angeles - San Diego Rising Stars Revue, The Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows is pleased to offer a room rate of $229/night valid over the event dates of March 16 - 19, 2010. Based on availability.
featured video  8. Featured Video: Liquid Nitrogen White Russian
Be sure to check out our latest Featured Video. Watch Mixologist Mike Yen of Nine-Ten in La Jolla, CA turn the flavors of a White Russian into a playful bowl of alcoholic "Dippin' Dots" with liquid nitrogen.
 9. Photo Galleries from Chicago: Old and New
Photos from our recent tasting trip to Chicago: The Publican and the James Hotel. Plus a look back at photo galleries from never-before-published 2006 and 2007 Chicago tastings—see what these chefs were doing back then and how far our photography has come!
 10. Featured Cookbook: The P&J Oyster Cookbook
Kit Wohl and the Sunseri Family
Pelican Publishing Company
December 2009

When the Sunseri family first moved from the coast of the Adriatic Sea to southeastern United States, they brought with them a deep love for oysters. They turned this passion into a business, the P&J Oyster Company, which has been harvesting and distributing top quality Crassostrea virginica along the Gulf Coast for over 130 years. Serving such famous New Orleans restaurants as Arnuad's and The Commander's Palace, P&J embedded itself in the very roots of American oyster consumption. And this recipe-packed cookbook, written with the help of New Orleans native and unofficial cultural ambassador Kit Wohl, showcases everything from the sublime simplicity of the raw oyster (an umami-rich protein) to its versatility as a dish component in both classic and modern New Orleans cooking.
The iSi Whipper: Endless Possibilities
 11. Top 10 Jobs from the JobFinder
Line Cooks
Danny Meyer's Maialino
New York

Sales Representative
Work With Leading Sous Vide Equip Company

Line cook- Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Come work on the farm!
Blue Hill & Blue Hill at Stone Barns
New York

Pastry Cook - Jean-Georges
New Jean-Georges Restaurant in Union Square seeking Pastry Cooks
New York

Executive Chef & Food Service Director
Midwest Kosher Summer Camp

STK Miami - Chef de Cuisine & Sous Chef
STK on Miami Beach, FL

FIG Restaurant
Santa Monica
FIG Restaurant Santa Monica

Head Chef at the Ambassador's Residence
Head Chef to the British Ambassador
British Embassy
District of Columbia

Sous Chef
Sous Chef at Relais Chateaux Property

Executive Chef
Executive Chef for Golf Course and Community
River Run Golf Course & Community
 12. Featured Chef to Know: Mindy Segal of Hot Chocolate - Chicago,
1747 North Damen Avenue
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 489-1747

Seats: 65
Tasting Menu: No
Kitchen Staff: 15

Cuisine: American
Born: 1967
Began Career: 1989
Culinary School: Kendall College, Chicago, IL
Grad Year: 1989
Stages: Chicago, IL: St Tropez
Work History: Chicago, IL: Charlie Trotters, Marche, Ambria, Spago, mk, Mia Francesca
Mentor(s): Charlie Trotter, Michael Kornick
Protegee(s): Kate Neuman, Mark Steuer
Awards: 2008 James Beard Foundation Outstanding Pastry Chef Nominee; 2005 Rising Star Pastry Chef Chicago
Affiliations: Slow Food, Chefs Collaborative

Notable Dishes: Honeycrisp Apple Tartlet with Smoky Apple and Cider Ice Cream; Blueberry Coffee Cake, Sweet Corn Ice Cream Napoleon, Corn Nut Tuile, Caramel Corn, Blueberry-Merlot Reduction

Restaurant Recs: Song Dong Tofu House for dol sop bi bim bop; Las Islas Marias for langoustines
Kitchen Tool(s): Spoon because if you ain't eatin' your food, who is?
Interview Question: Where do you anticipate being, career-wise, in 5 years?
Flavor Combo(s): Strawberry, rhubarb, vanilla, and fresh licorice root; bananas, barley malt, hot fudge, and butterscotch; fresh mint, white chocolate with a surprise of really bittersweet chocolate; milk chocolate, coffee, and cocoa nibs; milk chocolate and ginger
Fave Cookbook(s): Dessert by the Yard by Sherry Yard; Chocolate Obsessions by Micahel Recchiuti; Pure Desserts by Alice Medrich
Chef to Cook for You: Anthony Bourdain. He is so kooky and crazy and he has traveled so much and seen so many cuisines. I think it would just be a blast!
Culinary Travel: I am dying to go to Oaxaca, Mexico.
Jade 13. Recipe for Sour Candied Citrus from Pastry Chef Toni Roberts of C-House - Chicago, IL
5 oranges, peeled
5 lemons, peeled
5 grapefruits, peeled
5 limes, peeled
8 cups sugar
4 cups water
Citric acid

Combine 5 cups of sugar with the water and bring to a boil. Set aside. Put the citrus zest strips in a pot and cover with cold water; bring to a boil over high heat. Stir and strain. Return the zest strips to the pot and cover with the sugar syrup (make sure to completely cover the zest; make more syrup if necessary.). Bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and press a piece of parchment paper into the pot so that it touches the syrup. Let sit 12 hours or overnight at room temperature.

Remove the parchment paper and discard. Bring the zest and syrup to a boil and then turn heat down to a simmer. Simmer until zest is translucent, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, put the remaining 3 cups sugar in a very large bowl. Whisk in citric acid 1 tablespoon at a time until desired sourness is achieved. Strain all of the syrup from the zest and toss in the sieve to get as much syrup off as possible. Add the zest to the bowl with the sour sugar and toss to coat. Spread zest on a sheet pan and allow to dry for 30 minutes. Store the sour candied citrus zests in an airtight container.
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