Tapioca maltodextrin–a starch patented
as N-Zorbit M by the National Starch and Chemical Company–is
most commonly used as a bulking agent in frozen foods. In the
kitchen at Providence, Pastry Chef Adrian Vasquez uses
it to stabilize high-fat ingredients such as white chocolate,
foie gras, peanut butter, and oils. He then transforms the stabilized
fats into powders that add potent flavor and textural dimension
to his desserts. Vasquez brought the technique to Providence
after hearing about Pastry Chef Sam Mason’s olive oil powder.
Tapioca maltodextrin isn’t an economical
choice—a 50-pound box costs over $200, and due to its industrial
nature, it isn’t available in smaller quantities. So it’s
no surprise that this technique is rarely found, and when it is,
it’s usually in moderation. The powder technique is not
limited to the pastry kitchen at Providence, where Chef
Michael Cimarusti garnishes savory plates with aromatic basil
powder, chorizo powder, and bacon powder.
Step 1: Liquefy fat (render
bacon fat, melt butter, etc.)
Step 2: Chill fat
Step 3: Start with a ratio of 60 percent fat
to 40 percent tapioca maltodextrin. Purée fat with tapioca
maltodextrin in a Robot Coupe. Add more tapioca maltodextrin as
needed.
Step 4: Pass through a tamis for a fluffier powder.
White Chocolate Mousse with Black Olive
Nougatine and White Chocolate Powder
Pastry Chef Adrian Vasquez of Providence – Los
Angeles, CA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 24 servings (4 cm-tall by 5 cm-wide molds)
Ingredients:
Method:
For White Chocolate Powder:
Place starch in Robot Coupe and add melted white chocolate. Spin
machine and scrape side and bottom with spatula. Add starch as
needed to create desired texture. For a fluffier chocolate powder,
pass through tamis.
For White Chocolate Mousse:
Make créme anglaise with cream, sugar and yolks. Pour over
chocolate and cocoa butter, add gelatin, and stir with a spatula.
When mixture is between 35-40°C, fold in whipped cream and
fill desired molds.
For Blood Orange Sauce:
Bring blood orange purée, sugar and agar to a boil. Remove
from heat and chill until aspic-like in texture. Purée
in blender.
For Mandarin Sauce:
Bring mandarin purée, sugar and agar to a boil. Remove
from heat and chill until aspic-like in texture. Purée
in blender.
For Black Olive Nougatine:
Preheat oven to 180°F. Dry olives in oven overnight. The next
day, roughly chop the olives, place on paper towels and place
in 180°F oven until towels have absorbed all the oil they
can take. Repeat. When olives are dry, cook fondant and glucose
to 320°F, add butter and emulsify. Add ½ cup chopped,
dry olives, stir and pour onto Silpat. When cool, pulse in Robot
Coupe until chunky in texture.
To Assemble and Serve:
Place black olive nougatine in a mound at the center of a serving
plate. Sprinkle white chocolate powder atop the olive nougatine
for contrast and top with the white chocolate mousse. Top mousse
with more white chocolate powder and garnish plate with blood
orange and mandarin sauces.