StarChefs in the News

New York Magazine
September 21, 2006

Top Chefs Convene in New York, Party

The well behaved: Toronto's Susur Lee, Madrid's Sergi Arola, and New York's Wylie Dufresne.Photo: Melissa Hom

We learned a lot hanging out at the congress. The conference, which convened some of the most famous cooks from the four corners of the earth on Tuesday and Wednesday, cost an arm and a leg to get into — $850 for a two-day "industry pass" — but it was worth it.

Where else could you hear talks like these?

• Daniel Boulud and Eric Ripert's "The Makings of a Four-Star Restaurant"

• Offal king Fergus Henderson's "Guts and Glory"

• "Iron Chef" Masaharu Morimoto's "Hot, Live and Raw" (on how to vivisect an octopus)

• Legendary El Bulli pastry chef Albert Adria's "Nature as Inspiration"

Still, these amazing talks all paled in comparison to Tuesday's after-parties. At Hotel QT and B.E.D., chefs got rip-roaring drunk, loudly spouting off about their rivals, critics, and favorite recipes, their eyes glazed, hands wildly gesticulating.