Top Pair: Pouring Uphill, Italian Wine in California

Tucked into the tony neighborhood of Rockridge in Oakland, California, you’d expect Oliveto to pour pricey wines in its by-the-glass program. But Sommelier Esteban Brunello maintains an affordable list by doing his homework; he combines skill, knowledge and a deep love of vino Italiano for a soulful wine experience. He learned many a lesson from mentors Shelley Lindgren, Bobby Stuckey, and Charles Stanford, but none more important than keeping the customer first and foremost in mind. “It’s easy to get expensive wines for the list. But a good wine director seeks out values that he can pass along to his guests,” says Brunello.

Selling Italian wine in Northern California isn’t always an easy task, but Brunello enjoys the challenge of turning his guests on to indigenous Italian grapes, and his passion is infectious. He captured our attention with Elvio Cogno’s Nascetta, a Piemontese white grape that pairs beautifully with Chef Jonah Rhodehamel’s antipasto of slow-roasted winter vegetables. An easy-drinking Rosso di Montalcino from Camigliano is a solid match for the Castelmagno tortelloni, with just enough spice and tannin to balance the richness of the cheese. Including the pairings below, Brunello keeps all his glass pours well below $20. The success of his wine program is solid evidence that customers will keep coming back for a sweet mix of value and quality.