Bagel and Lox...Granita?

By Lisa Elbert | Caroline Hatchett

By

Lisa Elbert
Caroline Hatchett
Amaranth, Candied Meyer Lemon Rinds, Elephant Garlic, Salmon Granita, and Cream Cheese Espuma
Amaranth, Candied Meyer Lemon Rinds, Elephant Garlic, Salmon Granita, and Cream Cheese Espuma

Granitas are among the most primitive of desserts—simple, sweet, icey summertime pleasures. Chef Iliana Regan flips the format on its head in a wild riff on bagel and lox. “We had all of this salmon scrap leftover from another dish and I thought, let's do something,” Regan says. “Granitas just popped into my head.” Regan takes the salmon scrap and bones, smokes them, makes a stock (reinforced with curing seasonings, brown sugar, salt, lemon, and a little gelatin to help it set), and then transforms the liquid into a savory granita.

To further the breakfast concept, she makes an everything bagel cracker by cooking a porridge of amaranth grains, poppy seeds, elephant garlic, onion, and sesame, and then dries and fries the mixture. At pick-up, Regan places the cracker in a bowl and tops it with cream cheese espuma and candied Meyer lemon rind. She finishes the dish with a spoonful of the salmon granita and smoked trout roe. It’s a deliciously jarring composition with texture and temperature elements that are completely out of context for the familiar flavor profile. Regan went there, and we loved it. 

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