Ash-Coated Loin of Venison, Maitake, Red Cabbage, Pistachio, Mastic, and Porcini Jus

Adapted by
June 2013
Yield: 4 Servings


Beet Ash
12 medium red beets
Venison Marinade
30 grams beet Ash
100 grams extra virgin olive oil
Four 6-ounce portions venison loin
Porcini Jus
Bones from 1 venison saddle, cut into 2-inch lengths
vegetable oil
2 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions
1 cup coarsely chopped carrots
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
1 cup coarsely chopped leeks
1 cup coarsely chopped celery root
1 cup brandy
3 cups dry Red wine
4 sprigs thyme
10 black peppercorns
8 juniper berries
6 allspice berries
1 gallon chicken stock
1 gallon veal stock
2 cups dried cherries
30 grams dried porcinis
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Red Cabbage Fondue
500 grams thinly sliced red cabbage
30 grams thinly sliced shallot
90 grams butter
100 grams honey
200 Red wine
300 tawny port
60 dried cherries
Ground allspice to taste
Ground juniper to taste
100 grams grated Yukon Gold potatoes
20 grams cherry or red wine vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rosemary Gel
2 sprigs rosemary
600 grams water
6 grams low acyl gellan gum
75 grams sugar
Pistachio Purèe
500 grams water
250 grams shelled Sicilian pistachios
100 grams peeled diced Yukon Gold potatoes
25 grams sugar
6 grams salt
Mastic Cream
250 grams half and half
8 grams sugar
3 grams salt
3 grams agar agar
2 grams mastic
Pistachio Crumble
½ cup Sicilian pistachios
1 cup freeze-dried cherries
To Assemble and Serve
sprigs thyme
1 large cluster maitake mushrooms, quartered, sautéed in oil
Grilled large green onion petals
Salt and freshly ground black pepper


For the Beet Ash:
Trim beets, remove tops, scrub under cold running water, and dry on paper towels. Wrap individual beets tightly in aluminum foil. Cover beets with hot glowing charcoal embers and let char overnight. Carefully open foil and transfer charred beets to food processor; process to ash. Pass ash through chinois. Store Beet Ash in airtight container at room temperature.

For the Venison Marinade:
Whisk Beet Ash into oil until combined. Coat venison in ash mixture, cover, and marinate overnight in refrigerator.

For the Porcini Jus:
Preheat oven to 425°F. Lightly coat bones in oil and roast until browned. In large rondeau, heat oil and sweat onions, carrots, celery, leeks, and celery root until carrots are tender. Deglaze with brandy and reduce by three-quarters. Add wine and reduce until about 1 cup liquid remains. Wrap thyme, peppercorns, juniper, and allspice in cheesecloth and secure tightly with twine. Add sachet and bones to rondeau, cover with stocks, and reduce by half. Strain Jus through chinois and season with salt and pepper. Add cherries and porcinis, cover, and steep until completely cooled. Set aside in refrigerator.  

For the Red Cabbage Fondue:
In rondeau, sweat cabbage and shallots in butter until cabbage is almost tender. Add honey and cook until honey foams. Deglaze with wine and port. Add cherries, allspice, juniper, and potato. Remove from heat when potato is cooked through and cabbage is tender and glossy. Season with salt and pepper, finish with cherry vinegar, and let cool. Finely chop cabbage mixture, cover, and refrigerate.     

For the Rosemary Gel:
Combine rosemary with water and let infuse for at least 15 minutes; the rosemary flavor should be intense. Strain rosemary water through chinois into Vitamix and blend. When vortex forms in center, shear in gellan and blend until dispersed. Pour mixture into pot with sugar and bring to simmer, whisking until sugar dissolves. Transfer to quarter-sheet tray lined with plastic wrap. Let cool until firmly set. Cut into ½-inch cubes, cover, and refrigerate.

For the Pistachio Purèe:
Combine all ingredients in medium saucepan, bring to simmer, and cook until potatoes are tender. Blend in Vitamix until smooth. Transfer to squeeze bottle or pastry bag and refrigerate.

For the Mastic Cream:
Combine all ingredients and simmer 3 minutes. Strain through chinois into eighth-sheet tray and let cool completely. Transfer to Vitamix and blend until smooth. Transfer to squeeze bottle or pastry bag and refrigerate.

For the Pistachio Crumble:
Combine pistachios and cherries in food processor and pulse to coarse crumb. Set aside in airtight container.

To Assemble and Serve:
Let Rosemary Gel, Pistachio Purée, and Mastic Cream come to room temperature. Reheat jus and cabbage. Season venison with salt and pepper and pan-roast, basting in butter and thyme, to desired temperature. Season maitake and sauté in oil. Plate venison on cabbage and arrange maitake around them. Squeeze or pipe a few dollops of Pistachio Purée and Mastic Cream around venison. Add a couple cubes Rosemary Gel and sprinkle Pistachio Crumble on plate. Garnish with onion petals and chervil. Finish with Jus.