Giving Street Waffles the Haute Treatment

By Jessica Yoon | Antoinette Bruno

By

Jessica Yoon
Antoinette Bruno
Sourdough-Cheddar Waffle, Sweet Cream, Strawberry Cremeux, Green Almonds, Strawberry Sorbet, and Caramel
Sourdough-Cheddar Waffle, Sweet Cream, Strawberry Cremeux, Green Almonds, Strawberry Sorbet, and Caramel

Breakfast for dessert is Leigh Omilinksy’s M.O. During her tenure as pastry chef at Chicago's Café des Architectes, her waffle creation was a standing favorite that gained the seal of approval from the Belgian consulate, a political expert on gaufres. An intricate weave between sweet and savory, Omilinsky’s waffle comes with cheddar, sweet cream, strawberry crémeux, green almonds, strawberry sorbet, and caramel sauce.

An obvious tap into American breakfast nostaglia, the dessert also riffs on a common street food in Hong Kong called gai ddan jai—an egg waffle with protruding spheres instead of square indentations. Instead of a quick-rise batter, Omilinsky uses an 8-year-old sourdough starter, affectionately named Stanley. Spiked with a sharp, house cheddar, the trick to getting the outside crispy and the interior chewy, is to get the iron hot, quickly pour the batter in, close the mold, and flip it over immediately.

As far as we know, Stanley has not made the move to Omilinksy’s new position at Nico Osteria, but we’ll be on the look out for more of these elegant, breakfast-inspired compositions on her new menu. 

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