Katsuobushi, Richmond Style

By D. J. Costantino | Will Blunt

By

D. J. Costantino
Will Blunt
Perksinson's trio of Chesapeake oysters at Southbound
Perksinson's trio of Chesapeake oysters at Southbound

Far far away from Kagoshima, the birthplace of katsuobushi, just outside Richmond in Bon Air, Virginia, Chef Craig Perkinson is making Southern-style katsuobushi … with pork tongues. Specifically, he’s sourcing Ossabaw/Berkshire hogs from Autumn Olive Farms in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley and applying a koji cure. (We’re pretty sure Perkinson is the originator of #kojiwankenobi and is known to have #slippedthekojiin.) He vacuum-seals the tongues in salt, sugar, and koji for three weeks before hanging them for two months and finishing the tongues with a light smoke over Virginia cherrywood. He makes it rain pork tongue katsuobushi over Whitestone oysters from nearby Hayes and also shaves the funky, porky, smokyaccent onto eggs, into stocks and soups, and even on top of desserts.

 

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