Quiz: Which NYC Baked Good Is Right For You?

By Amelia Schwartz | Will Blunt and Erin Lettera

By

Amelia Schwartz
Will Blunt and Erin Lettera
City Loaf | Baker Peter Edris of Frenchette
City Loaf | Baker Peter Edris of Frenchette

Flo Andreytchenko grew up in France knowing the value of good bread and pastries. “During World War I in France, when everything was closed, bakeries always stayed open,” says the owner of La Bicyclette Bakery in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Bread and pastries take practice, consistency, science, and hours—sometimes days—to make. Finally having some time, chefs and home cooks alike baked during their quarantines. Whether they went down the sourdough, banana bread or pizza rabbithole, many gained a deeper understanding of the hard work and reward that goes into a baked good. Thanks to this, New York bakeries have enjoyed a renaissance. Lines are stretched out the door for what has become a new category of comfort food. And with a consistent revenue, bread and pastries are many restaurants’ saving grace. New York bakers have followed the French’s footsteps; during the most difficult times, they are still churning out accessible, affordable, fresh-out-of-the-oven products. Here, find out which of our favorites is right for you.

Beef Empanada at Love, Nelly: 


This Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn bakeshop is a love letter to and from Nelly, the Colombian mother of Baker Stephanie Gallardo. The beef empanada with raisins, olives, hard-boiled eggs, and cumin can also be found at Attaboy. This was Gallardo’s favorite growing up, though Nelly baked them with frozen empanada dough.

 

Delta Bacon Kolache at Kings Kolache:


Dressed in adorable gas station attendant uniforms, Paul and Sarah Ashey cook up kolaches—sweet and savory Czech-Tex filled buns. Their Delta Bacon is a standout with its pillowy, yeast-leavened pastry stuffed with onion dip and hickory-smoked bacon.

 

Peach Bomboloni at Leo:


Leo is heaven for sourdough fanatics. In addition to the sourdough pizza, Pastry Chef Eva Milcetic’s peach bomboloni (full recipe here), filled with peach jam and peach leaf pastry cream and coated with sugar, are enough on their own to warrant a trip to Williamsburg before a weekend brunch shift. 

 

Baguette at La Bicyclette:


Baker Flo Andreytchenko sells his baguette for a slim $2. Accessible but in no way ordinary, this perfect baguette is chewy with a light, open crumb (full recipe here). Andreytchenko urges guests to spread butter and cheese on the cut bread, just as they do in Paris.

 

Gold Country Loaf at Frenchette:


Frenchette Baker Peter Edris experiments with unexpected combinations of local whole grains and produce. His gold country loaf, with 100 percent durum flour and 94 percent hydration, defies expectations. It has an eggshell-thin crust, a soft but tight crumb, and a bright, golden hue.

 

Black Pepper, Cheddar, and Polenta Sourdough at Winner:


Every day at noon, Baker Kevin Bruce bakes a different “Special Sourdough.” On Thursdays, he prepares a black pepper and polenta sourdough with a velvety crumb, pockets of sharp cheddar and an insanely crisp crust. Make sure to pre-order the loaf via email because it sells out quickly.

 

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