Poach Perfect: Cooking Oysters Sous Vide

By Korakot Suriya-arporn | Aliza Eliazarov

By

Korakot Suriya-arporn
Aliza Eliazarov
Warm Oyster Stew: Wellfleet Oysters, Bone Marrow Emulsion, Brassicas, Smoked Hazelnut Oil, Toasted Nori
Warm Oyster Stew: Wellfleet Oysters, Bone Marrow Emulsion, Brassicas, Smoked Hazelnut Oil, Toasted Nori

Chef Matthew Delisle made serious updates oystah chowdah at Boston’s L’Espalier. For the dish, he sources oysters from Island Creek in Duxbury, Massachusetts, an hour south of Boston. He shucks and cooks these shellfish sous vide for just a few minutes in their own liquor. “This warms the oysters through, without losing the fresh, briny flavor that we're trying to capture,” says Delisle. “Once we started sealing the oysters and juice together, it was easy to achieve the desired consistency.” He harnesses the supreme savory-ness (and creamy fat) of smoked bone marrow to complement the barely cooked bivalves. The milk-based meaty emulsion is warmed separately and then united with the oysters tableside. “When you eat the dish, there are moments of pure oyster and then bone marrow,” he says. “And then the marriage of the two.” It’s a union of land and sea, where fat and brine intertwine and give birth to a luscious, complex dish.

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