Only in Brooklyn

By Caroline Hatchett


Caroline Hatchett
Fried pigtails and Vietnamese caramel at Di an Di
Fried pigtails and Vietnamese caramel at Di an Di

At Di An Di in Greenpoint, Texan Chef Dennis Ngo cooks Vietnamese food in a historically Polish neighborhood, and there’s an item on the menu that may feel familiar to anyone who’s been dining out in Brooklyn during the past 10 years: pig tails. The dish is in homage to beloved Brooklyn Star, a Tex-Mex joint that opened in a historically Italian neighborhood in north Williamsburg in 2009 and closed in spring 2018 (to the chagrin of many, chief among them Texan Chef and Owner Joaquin Baca). The restaurant was part of that first wave that legitimized Brooklyn as a dining destination. With a bowl of pig tails, Ngo pays tribute to the lifecycle of a restaurant, the changing communities around them, and how we remember the food we love. Baca recently opened izakaya spot Teo in Bushwick. 

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