Next Gen Desserts Part 3: Raisin D'Extra

Eclair: Toasted Oat Pastry Cream, White Chocolate-Fenugreek Glaze, and Golden Raisin Pate de Fruit
Eclair: Toasted Oat Pastry Cream, White Chocolate-Fenugreek Glaze, and Golden Raisin Pate de Fruit

New York City is in a golden pastry moment right now, dripping with talent and tahini. Michael Laiskonis is back behind the pass. There’s kakigori off Canal Street and artisan bakers running hotel F&B programs. Pastry chefs are making inventive, delicious, and resonant desserts by tapping into their own heritage, unabashed American nostalgia (hey there, sundae), and techniques refined in some of the city’s best kitchens. 

At Bien Cuit, Scott Cioe’s éclair is so packed with flavor that the delicate walls of its choux pastry can barely contain it. “It’s the éclair of the moment. It reminds you of home and childhood, like an oatmeal cookie. It’s nostalgic, but we replace the cinnamon with underutilized fenugreek,” says Cioe. The pastry cream is infused with toasted oats. The glaze is white chocolate-fenugreek. The golden raisin pâte de fruits tastes more like raisins than the actual dried fruit—as if they’ve gone through therapy and are now living their best lives. Citric acid-spiked golden raisin-white verjus purée is an exclamation point. Cioe uses every square inch for flavor, fashioning an unforgettable take on a classic.

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