Next Gen Desserts Part 1: Cray for Crullers

By Caroline Hatchett


Caroline Hatchett
Maple, Cinnamon Sugar, and Strawberry Crullers
Maple, Cinnamon Sugar, and Strawberry Crullers

New York City is in a golden pastry moment right now, dripping with talent and tahini. Michael Laiskonis is back behind the pass. There’s kakigori off Canal Street and artisan bakers running hotel F&B programs. Pastry chefs are making inventive, delicious, and resonant desserts by tapping into their own heritage, unabashed American nostalgia (hey there, sundae), and techniques refined in some of the city’s best kitchens. 

On May 10, 2013, Daniel Alvarez fried the first batch of Cronuts at Dominique Ansel. Now as pastry chef of Daily Provisions and Union Square Cafe, Alvarez has a category killer all his own: the cruller, with a yielding, custardy center and deeply burnished exterior. Starting with a basic choux dough, it took him three months to get the butter-packed ratios down and onto a four-page recipe. Cruller prep takes four hours each day, starting at 5am, and he makes three flavors (maple is the staple). They sell for three-and-a-half bucks, and customers line up to buy more than 200 a day by 11am.


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