Da Toscano's William Tuggle Used Up Scraps for a Celery Root Millefeuille

By Amelia Schwartz | Will Blunt


Amelia Schwartz
Will Blunt
Chef William Tuggle of da Toscano
Chef William Tuggle of da Toscano

Da Toscano Chef de Cuisine William Tuggle fiddled with a lobster recipe for days, but it just wasn’t coming together. The lobster component, which Tuggle thought would be the easiest, seemed forced. Feeling defeated, he looked down at his empty lobster shells and remembered the goldmine sitting in his freezer: three months’ worth of seafood shells and scraps that he had hoarded during quarantine. So Tuggle threw the shells—mostly composed of lobster and carabineros shrimp—into a pot and simmered them into a sugo. He serves it beneath the layers and layers of a celery root millefeuille. As the celery root is pressed and seared, it exchanges its sweetness for a deep savoriness. But Tuggle adds that sweetness right back in with celery root cream and macerated Granny Smith apples. So Tuggle did make a lobster dish—it was just a little scrappier than expected. 

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