Pastry Chef Bruno Feldeisen

by Kathleen Culliton
Antoinette Bruno
June 2011

The heart of the pastry program at Yew Restaurant and Bar beats to the rhythm of innovation. That’s because classically trained Pastry Chef Bruno Feldeisen pumps out inspired desserts with the vigor of a body-builder pumping iron. Every item in “The Dessert Tapas Menu” (made miniature to prompt diversity in snacking) improves upon classic elements with novel twists—whether it be ice cream served with tahini ganache or fruit consommé with mango ravioli, Feldeisen enhances the relationship between flavor and texture.

The brightest star in Feldeisen’s firmament of pastry, Duck Egg Custard, shines thanks to a diva ingredient. Luxurious and temperamental duck eggs beg to be included in puddings and custards. Excess fat creates a velvety mouthfeel, while the extra proteins, if properly handled (by which we mean very delicately), ensure his custard remains light and airy. The flavor is intensely yolk forward, but it’s the silky, lavish texture that makes this Duck Egg Custard unforgettable.

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