Chef Bellanger serves the crémeux in a shot glass. The
white pepper enhances the vanilla flavor and makes the foam
taste slightly "hot."
Black truffle cremeux:
- 450 milliliters (2 cups) heavy cream
- 320 milliliters (1 1/3 cups) milk
- 12 grams (1/2 ounce) fresh black truffles,
- 150 grams egg yolk (from about 8 large
- 90 grams (scant ½ cup) granulated
- 2 sheets gelatin, soaked in 1 quart
Tahitian vanilla foam:
- 450 milliliters (2 cups) heavy cream
- ½ teaspoon white pepper
- 1 Tahitian vanilla bean
For black truffle cremeux:
Bring heavy cream and milk to a boil in a medium sauce pan.
Remove from heat and add chopped black truffles. Cover with
plastic film and let mixture infuse for 2 hours at room temperature.
Bring mixture to a boil again. Meanwhile,
combine egg yolks and sugar in a stainless steel mixing bowl.
Whisk the mixture until a change of color (from yellow to
light yellow color).
Add yolk-sugar mixture to the truffle
infusion. Cook like a crème anglaise: heat
, stirring constantly, until mixture reaches 84ºC (183ºF)
and naps the back of a wooden spoon.
Stop cooking immediately. Add rinsed and soaked gelatin. Stir
well to combine. Fill each shot glass half full and refrigerate.
For Tahitian vanilla foam:
Using a paring knife, open and scrape the seeds of vanilla
bean into the heavy cream; add scraped pod also. Bring this
mixture to a boil then refrigerate overnight.
The following day, discard bean pod and
add white pepper. Whip this mixture by hand using a whisk
to make sure to get the maximum volume.
Spoon some of the foam on top of
the Truffle Cremeux and serve immediately with 2 sugared puff
As Fauchon's Executive Pastry Chef
in the United States, Florian Bellanger heads a team of fourteen
pastry chefs to create the finest pastries, special occasion
cakes, cookies, unique ice creams and sorbets for the legendary
French epicurean emporium's cafe and flagship store in New
York City. He has come full circle after serving Fauchon as
second in command in Paris and other cities from 1991 to 1996.
"The most important thing for me is to keep the Fauchon
tradition of quality, innovation and service," Florian
says. "We are constantly playing with tradition, combining
old and modern pastry-making methods to create interesting
new desserts." Florian's innovations are evident in such
tradition-shattering creations as éclairs flavored
with orange zest, passion fruit or coconut; raspberry marshmallow
cake; Toulouse violet ice cream and raspberry-chili pepper
sorbet; and lavish three-dimensional holiday cakes and wedding
cakes for which he continuously creates new molds and recipes.
A veteran of pastry kitchens from around the world, Florian
was the pastry chef of Le Bernardin in 1996, where
his desserts, described as "light and dreamy" by
Ruth Reichl of The New York Times, helped bring the restaurant
to its four-star status. In addition, he was the pastry chef
in the French Military Officer's Club in French Guyana.
Growing up in Paris, Florian knew from an early age that
his career would take a culinary path. Not only did he indulge
in decadent cakes and pastries as a child, but he often spent
his free afternoons in the kitchen, baking them for his family.
While a childhood allergy to chocolate did ironically prevent
him from relishing such treats for nearly six years, he fortuitously
outgrew it and dedicated himself to the art of pastries even
more passionately. At the age of fifteen, Florian applied
to Paris's prestigious pastry school, L'Ecole de Paris des
Métiers de la Table. Although his application was rejected
because he was a year too young to enroll, in 1983 the future
chef was accepted and graduated with an emphasis in pastry
and a specialty in chocolate and ice cream.
Boldly inventive Florian was named one of the "10 Best
Pastry Chefs in America" in 2004 and 2003 by Pastry Art
& Design magazine. In 2002 and 2001, the James Beard Foundation
recognized Florian's accomplishments with a nomination for
Outstanding Pastry Chef. He and his collection of innovative
cakes and pastries have been featured on Epicurious TV, CNNfn
and Martha Stewart Living Television; as well as in numerous
publications, including: House Beautiful, Martha Stewart Weddings,
Forbes, Bride's, Modern Bride, The New York Times, InStyle,
Pastry Art & Design, Food Arts, Chocolatier, PastryScoop.com,
Delta Sky and New York Magazine.
Florian is a member of City Harvest's Food Council and a
guest chef faculty member at the French Culinary Institute.
He also donates his time to charities such as the Anthony
Spinazzola Foundation and the Jean-Louis Palladin Foundation.