| By
Jim Clarke
March
2007
These are all wines (or beers or spirits) that I have
recently enjoyed and which somehow-or-another stood
out from the pack. Some were new to me, some were new
vintages of wines I was previously familiar with, and
others are quaffs that I have revisited and possibly
even developed a new appreciation for.
Sparkling:
Harushika Tokimeki Sparkling Sake, Nara, Japan
This refreshing sake not only has bubbles; it’s
a nigori as well. That means it’s unfiltered,
with tiny rice particles giving it a milky color. It’s
actually reminiscent of a Moscato d’Asti: mildly
sweet, with similar peach and pear aromas but also some
light yeastiness. The bubbles lighten the texture, making
it a suitable aperitif despite the sweetness.
Serve with: Fresh
fruit
White: Livio
Felluga Tocai Friulano 2005 Colli Orientali del Friuli,
Italy
I’ve always like the Tocai Friulano grape, even
though lighter styles of the varietal tend to be somewhat
innocuous, in the manner of many Italian whites. However,
a riper Tocai Friulano like this one can have a lot
going on, making for a relatively full-bodied white
that doesn’t need oak-aging. The Livio Felluga
shows the grape’s characteristic bitter almond
aroma along with floral notes and touches of peach and
quince. The long finish unwinds into some light white
pepper and pear notes.
Serve with: Prosciutto and figs
Red: Te Awa
Zone 10 Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
The folks at Te Awa say that Zone 10 has always produced
Cabernet Sauvignon that stood out from other plots in
the vineyard for its aromatics and structure, so when
the vintage permits, they bottle it as a single-varietal
wine instead of blending it. 2002 was one of those years:
the wine shows no green or underripe notes, and instead
rewards you with cassis, blackberry, and earthy aromas
touched by a hint of anise. At the same time, the cooling
winds off the bay mean there’s nothing overdone
here; it’s well-structured and focused, and will
probably open up over the next few years.
Serve with: Lamb
Dessert: D’Oliveira
Reserva Boal 1968 Madeira, Portugal
Madeira, like Sherry, seems to remain off the radar
of many winedrinkers, meaning old wines like this one
are still out there – and still affordable –
for those who appreciate it. This Boal makes a great
end to a meal; not as sweet or rich as a Malmsey, it
has similar caramel and walnut aromas as well as touches
of apricot, quince paste, and nutmeg.
Serve with: A nut meringue
Beer: Dogfish
Head 60 Minute IPA Delaware, Maryland
The brewery’s flagship beer, this is one I like
to have ready in the fridge whatever the time of year.
In the hot weather it can be refreshing, but it’s
got enough muscle to stand up to the winter as well.
As a proper India Pale Ale, it eschews sweetness and
instead shows off the slightly bitter, floral aromas
of hops, rounded out by touches of cedar, pine, and
grapefruit.
Serve with: Salmon
Spirit: Glenmorangie
Madeira Wood Finish 12 Years Old, Speyside, Scotland
Glenmorangie has been offering their “Wood Finish”
series for about ten years, which takes their classic
Scotch and gives it a twist by wrapping up the aging
process in different casks. The Madeira Finish is the
one that excites me the most; you still get the honey
and floral aromas of the classic Glenmorangie, but there’s
also a nuanced depth and richness in the form of fruitcake,
walnut, and vanilla touches. It’s winey in its
complexity, and the concentration of flavor stands up
well to the finish, controlling the heat and keeping
things smooth and dry.
Serve with: Smoked almonds
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