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By
Jim Clarke
January
2007
These are all wines (or
beers or spirits) that I have recently enjoyed and which
somehow-or-another stood out from the pack. Some were
new to me, some were new vintages of wines I was previously
familiar with, and others are quaffs that I have revisited
and possibly even developed a new appreciation for.
SPARKLING:
J Wine Vintage Brut 1998, Russian River Valley, California
Not the current
release – though that itself is also quite enjoyable
– the 1998 represents the first year that J Vineyards
upped its on-lees aging time to four years, and the
wine shows that it has the fruit and structure to accommodate
the extended aging. Those fruits have broadened after
a couple years on its side and today are showing themselves
as notes of pear and quince. The wine has delicious
butterscotch, honey, and hazelnut aromas; medium-bodied,
it’s smooth and soft on the palate, with a clean
finish.
Serve with: Scallops
WHITE:
Ostertag Sylvaner 2005 Alsace, France
Outside of the four
“noble” Alsace grapes (Riesling, Muscat,
Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Gris) many Alsace wines tend
to be acceptable, but not particularly distinguished
(I’m thinking here of the Pinot Blancs, Sylvaners,
and actually, most Muscats as well. Nobility be damned).
However, I’m becoming more and more convinced
that it’s the effort in the vineyard (lower-yields,
please) that’s the problem, not the varieties
themselves. The Ostertag Sylvaner shows what can be
achieved: lots of pear, nutmeg, and floral aromas, with
a pleasant minerally base. It’s soft, but still
crisp; not noble, but certainly enjoyable.
Serve with: Ham
RED:
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Stellenbosch, South
Africa
While you could cite
this bottle as an example of how South African wines
tend to emulate the Old World (more earthy) rather than
the New, there remains something distinctively Southern
Hemisphere to it. I think it lies in those less fruity
aromas, which are not so much earth tones as spice tones
– lots of roast coffee, dark chocolate, and the
like. It’s fairly full-bodied, but not voluptuous;
good concentration and muscle make for depth, length,
and class.
Serve with: Roasted meats
DESSERT:
Hanahato Kijoshu Junmai Sake, Nihonshu-do, Japan
Most sake is meant
to be served young, but this one is aged for eight years,
giving a tawny color which hints at the flavors to come:
walnut, maple syrup, honey, and fig. Not as sweet or
rich as a Port, but offers a similar flavor profile
in a less heavy package.
Serve with: Crème Brulée
BEER:
Fischer Amber, Alsace, France
France is often
an afterthought in the world of the beer-drinker, but
just as German influence has affected the wines of Alsace,
they’ve also lent a bit of umph to the beers.
Fischer’s clunky, broad bottle and Grolsch-style
top hints at a different sort of beer: a medium amber,
and not too sweet. Good hoppy aromas (there are plenty
of hops fields around Strasbourg, which fade into vineyards
as you head south) are support by a concentrated maltiness
and caramel notes. It’s a lighter style than other
ambers, with less depth and richness; good when you
want the flavor, but not the weight.
Serve with: Gingerbread
SPIRIT:
Ardbeg 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch
While other distilleries
reign supreme in the 16 year or older categories, this
may just be the best ten year Islay malt out there.
It’s peaty and smoky, with citrus, seaweed, and
iodine notes. It’s not rich, full, and creamy
- if you want the bells and whistles of prolonged barrel-aging,
look elsewhere. The Ardbeg shows its terroir without
dressing it up.
Serve with: a drop of spring water,
perhaps
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