By Jim Clarke
November
2006
SPARKLING:
Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut Champagne, France
Made without any
dosage, this is literally as dry as it gets. It’s
got an impressively minerally nose, with touches of
lemon and almond; only on the palate do some of those
bready notes typical to Champagne begin to emerge. Even
without that touch of sugar, it still shows the smoothness
you’d expect from Laurent Perrier.
Serve with: Oysters
WHITE:
Flora Springs Chardonnay 2005, Napa Valley, California
This Chardonnay shows
a great combination of Burgundian elegance and California
fruitiness. There are tropical fruit aromas, especially
mango, but they’re supported by a minerally note
and wrapped in touches of marzipan, smoke, and coriander
spice. A touch over medium body, this Chardonnay doesn’t
go through malolactic fermentation, so it retains a
higher acidity which gives it focus and length.
Serve with: Dungeness crab
RED:
Cesca Vicent “Lo Piot” 2002 Priorat,
Spain
This Priorat has
everything you hope for from the region: a great, slatey
touch, lots of dark fruit (think boysenberry and figs),
and a dusting of chocolate. It’s full, rich, and
powerful. The Vicent family has been growing grapes
in Priorat for centuries; in 1999 Cesca began making
wine herself instead of selling the grapes to other
local wineries.
Serve with: Braised short ribs
DESSERT:
La Tunella Verduzzo 2004, Friuli Collie Orientali,
Italy
Made from the local
grape Verduzzo, raisinated on the vine, fermented, and
then aged in barriques. The oak-derived aromas balance
well with the grape’s own fruitiness, and the
wine shows notes of caramel, fig, date, and vanilla,
plus touches of almond and hazelnut. It’s sweet,
but not cloyingly so, and the tannins from the wood
help keep the finish dry and clean.
Serve with: Crème Brulée
BEER:
Aventinus, G. Schneider and Sohn, Germany
Celebrating its
centenary next year, the Aventinus is a German wheaten
doppelbock – meaning it includes wheat in the
mix, and is fermented twice, once in the tank and once
in the bottle (putting the “doppel” in “doppelbock”).
Unlike the summer wheaten beers that are more common
on the market, this is dark, with a touch of sweetness
and notes of chocolate, dates, and clove. Despite the
sweetness on the palate it finishes clean and dry.
Serve with: Wild boar
SPIRIT:
Marcarini Barolo Chinato
Properly speaking,
this isn’t a spirit as it’s not distilled.
But it drinks like one, especially if you like Italian
Amari (bitters) at the end of your meal. Essentially
it’s a Barolo that’s been infused with quinine
and a mix of herbs and spices. The wine’s power
and notes of lavender, black cherry, and a truffly earthiness
come through, embellished by a little sweetness and
touches of clove, mint, and juniper. Many Chinatos aren’t
imported, but the Marcarini is a classic example that’s
found its way over.
Serve with: Dark chocolate
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