Sommelier Ludovic Anacleto
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Azul Beach Hotel
Riviera Maya
Mexico
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An Interview with Sommelier
Ludovic Anacleto
By Jim Clarke
Jim Clarke:
Your family owned a vineyard in Champagne while you
were growing up; what did being in such direct contact with
winegrowing teach you?
Ludovic Anacleto de Montfaucon
d’Argone: One of the best lessons I learned
is that only 90% of a wine is made in the vineyard and the
more respect you give to the vine, the more rewarding a
wine will be.
JC: Having grown up
in Champagne and studied Port at La Quinta do Noval, you
seem to have a specialty in the wines that open and close
a meal; what especially attracts you to these “bookend”
wines?
LA: Wine is like a love
story: you always remember the spectacular beginning and
the (hopefully) happy ending. For me, Champagne is like
the blissful beginning of a romance and port is the happily-ever-after
ending.
JC: What drew you
to study Port so intimately?
LA: I was drawn to studying
Port as a result of the mysticism of this wine and the weight
of the traditions. For me, Port is in a category all its
own and incomparable.
JC: You’ve worked
with two chefs with very contrasting ways of working –
Alain Senderens is known for being intimately involved with
wine-pairing, whereas Ferran Adriá’s dishes
seem to stand on their own and defy traditional pairing
expectations; what did you learn from working with each
of them?
LA: From Mr. Senderens
I learned that a meal is like a wedding and you need two
people in love with each other to make it happen. Mr. Senderens
taught me to marry the cuisine and the wine. From Mr. Adria
I learned that textures are the pairing dictator. Tastes
can be very different from one person to another but a texture,
like crisp, is crisp to everyone. By blending crisp, ice,
and fruit, for example, you create a concerto for your palate.
JC: After years working
in France and Spain, what drew you to Mexico?
LA: I was drawn to Mexico
by the challenge of working with Karisma: a group of hotels
where a passion for food and wine are of the utmost importance
– so much so that Karisma has pioneered a new concept
called Gourmet Inclusive. Of course, I was also attracted
by the idea of working in one of the most beautiful spots
in the world and a country blessed with amazing culinary
culture and traditions.
JC: What different
demands do guests make at European restaurants and at the
Azul Beach Hotel? Do resort guests have a different set
of expectations?
LA: I have found resort
guests are more “technical” than European city
restaurant guests. Often in major European cities the customers
are major business clientele, who expect the sommelier to
help them to seal a deal. Here at the resort, people have
time to be surprised and are pleased to discover and savor
new things. Our team of sommeliers at Karisma is dedicated
to selecting wines that go beyond expectations.
JC: Your hobbies include
golf and medieval history; I can see how you could keep
up your golf game at Riviera Maya, but how do you indulge
your interest in medieval history?
LA: Thanks to the miracle
of the internet! Seriously, I am very into European medieval
history and here in Mexico the Mayan culture is as interesting
as medieval times in Europe. Additionally, here at Azul
Beach, we are surrounded by the mystic and magic of the
Mayan world with such jewels as Chichen Itza and the Coba
pyramids. This is a wonderful place to live.
