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   April 2006

BOSTON

Edward Roszak, formerly of Aquitaine, The Ritz-Carlton, and Clio, was recently named Chef de Cuisine of the Boston Red Sox. In this new position with Fenway and Aramark, Chef Roszak is responsible for the dining menu within the owners’ suites | Home sweet home. Two restaurants in town are announcing new pastry chefs. At Blu, Lynn Moulton (ex-Rialto) rejoins the Sapphire Group family (the folks behind Rialto and Noir) after an intensive year of pastry study in Paris. Nothing blue about this reunion, since she is now working with former Rialto chef Tom Fosnot. Moulton replaces Michelle Vernier, who has moved to Portland, Oregon. Bricco welcomes Tania Schnap (ex-Rouge and Chez Henri), who is bringing dishes like espresso mousse with Sambuca cream and quince crostata to the North End spot | Julia Child’s favorite butcher shop has returned to its roots. Savenor’s, family run since 1939, was originally located just down the street from Child’s Cambridge digs, and Jack, the son of original owners Abraham and Dora, was a frequent guest on her show. After a fire destroyed the shop in the early 1990s, the much-lauded butchery moved to Beacon Hill. Happily, Jack’s son Ron was able to reopen the shop in its original location this past winter. The Beacon Hill site remains open, too | Amanda Lydon is taking a break from her break: Last summer, she left her post at Upstairs on the Square to take some time off in Nantucket. Now she’s back in the kitchen at the tiny and aptly named Ten Tables in Jamaica Plain, offering seasonal dishes like handmade spaghetti with rosemary-carrot tomato sauce. But come summer, Lydon plans to resume her respite on Nantucket | After initial word that a renovation was in the works, the South End hotspot Perdix, which used to occupy the Ten Tables space, has closed for good. Chef/owner Tim Partridge cited the deferral of a full liquor license and increased competition from new South End eateries as factors behind his decision | Boston culinary leader Vicki Lee Boyajian, whose long history of local influence has included stints at Casa Romero and Le Bocage, is launching a new enterprise. She’s been on a hiatus since 1999, when she sold her self-named company to spend more time with her son. Her new Belmont venture showcases her jack-of-all-trades talents by featuring a pastry shop, espresso bar, table-service breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch, event catering, wedding cakes, and cooking classes | In nearby Framingham, baker Michael Rhoads (ex-Sel de la Terre, L’Espalier, Inn at Little Washington, and French Laundry) has opened B & R Artisan Breads, a wholesale bread and pastry operation with an on-site retail shop and bakery cafe. Rhoads’s wife, Jen Bones, is a partner, while Rachael Cummings and Wayne Kaufman round out the baking team.
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HOUSTON

Jorge Fife, chef/owner of A Taste of Portugal, is selling his restaurant due to health reasons. He’s looking for a buyer who’ll keep the Portuguese concept and let him come by and cook occasionally | Jay Seghal is pleased to announce the reopening of Bombay Brasserie, which closed several months ago after a fire. The new location is in the Rice Village area at 2414 University Boulevard and features the same popular lunch buffet and table-service evening menu | Noé restaurant at the Omni has changed its nightly dinner presentation to a degustation-driven menu, serving four-, six-, nine-, and twelve-course tasting menus. All items are also available à la carte by request | The Lancaster Hotel (and Bistro Lancaster) have changed hands. Longtime operators Bayou Equities and Bill Sharman are gone, replaced by the hometown-based Valencia Group, which also operates the Hotel Valencia Riverwalk in San Antonio and the Hotel Valencia Santana Row in San Jose, California. The Lancaster will keep its name | The cleverly named Crave restaurant has opened in the new Women’s Hospital of Texas Obstetrical and Gynecological Associates building on Fannin. The restaurant features targeted perks for expectant moms like extra-comfy chairs, handmade ice cream, and wireless service | Fish out of water: RA Sushi and Flying Fish Lounge, an edgy Scottsdale-based sushi bar and restaurant concept, has been rocking Highland Village since late February. The company is already planning a second Houston outlet in a second-story loft-like space across from Central Market | Luis Pesquera (Joyce’s Oyster Bar) and his wife, Maeve (Fleming’sPrime Steakhouse), closed on the old Stables–Rockfish Grill location on Westheimer in mid-December. They’ve opened Joyce’s Ocean Grill, with a menu similar to the original Joyce’s | Party central: A renovated historical building in Galveston now houses a combination restaurant and retail space. The Columbus Street Market on 14th is now home to the Sunflower Bakery and Cafe for breakfast, lunch, and dinner | On the go: The Houstonian has a new executive chef, Jeffrey Everts, who was most recently at Blue On Blue at the Avalon Hotel in Beverly Hills and Citron at Viceroy Palm Springs. He joined the hotel in early December. And Aldo El-Sharif (Aldo’s) is now cooking at Rouge.
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LOS ANGELES

Ben Ford (who closed Chadwick in Beverly Hills in 2002) has raised the curtain on Ford’s Filling Station in the burgeoning entertainment district of Culver City. Ford is calling the casual, unpretentious place a gastropub in the European style. You’ll find fried Ipswich clams on the menu, as well as Ford’s signature smoked Berkshire pork chop. Verite Mazzola (ex-Table 8) is both sous-chef and pastry chef | Tim Goodell of Domaine Restaurants (Meson G) has added 25 Degrees, a sit-down gourmet burger and wine bar, to his collection of restaurants at the suddenly trendy, revitalized Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. Stylist Dodd Mitchell designed the restaurant. Goodell developed the menu, which is now supervised by the newly arrived Michael McDonald (formerly of Avenue), who also oversees Dakota, the hotel’s destination restaurant. Executive chef Yves Bainier, who has relocated from the Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, oversees banquets, room service, and purchasing | Nearby, Hollywood welcomes Citizen Smith, a self-described urban bistro. The menu, by Taylor Boudreaux (formerly the opening chef for Mastro’s Steakhouse in Beverly Hills) is all-Americana, featuring such reinterpreted classics as a muffaletta sandwich and fried chicken adapted from a family recipe | When Marvin Saul opened Junior’s Deli in Westwood way back in 1959, he had absolutely no experience in the restaurant business. That’s hard to believe, since these days Junior’s is one of the highest grossing Jewish-style delis in the country. Now Saul has licensed the Junior’s name to restaurateurs Mike Gale and Max Gitnick for expansion under the moniker Junior’s Deli Boys. The first new restaurant debuted in the stylish Metlox Project in Manhattan Beach, and the second location will be in 2000 Avenue of the Stars in Century City, the 800,000-square-foot complex replacing the ABC Entertainment Center | All aboard: restaurateur Doug McAllister (Sutra Lounge) has launched Kantina on the bay front in Newport Beach. On the menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner are Mexican and Latin American dishes with a hint of Asian accents from chef de cuisine Robert Herrera (ex-Loft at the Montage Resort). Yachters can moor their boats at the restaurant while dining or get on-ship service from the Kantina staff | Long Beach’s George’s Greek Deli has added a third location (the second is in downtown Los Angeles) in the hip Belmont Shore district. It’s in the former Malvasia location on Second Street, a much bigger space than the Pine Avenue original. Chef/owner Demetrios Loizides will initially do the cooking and serve as manager | The music has stopped and all the chefs have settled into their new chairs over at Edward Thomas Hospitality Corp.’s properties. Michael Reardon, who opened Hotel Andalucia in Santa Barbara for the group, has checked in at the Hotel Casa del Mar in Santa Monica as executive chef, while next door at Shutters on the Beach, Andri Tscharner, formerly of the nearby Fairmont Miramar Hotel, now oversees the property’s One Pico, Pedals, Lobby Lounge, and banquets. Finally, Fermin Arias, the One Pico chef since March of 2005, heads north to lead the culinary brigade at Hotel Andalucia | In other chef comings and goings: Yvon Goetz, one of the leaders in the local French culinary community, has departed David Wilhelm’s Culinary Adventures restaurant group after a tad less than a year. As corporate executive chef he was responsible for creating the menu at the French 75 Bistro outposts | A minor adjustment to report in the culinary team at the young, but well received, Bluebird Cafe & Bakery in Culver City: founding pastry chef Audrey Bernstein has departed. Proprietor Vincent Treviño and chef Chris Marble now supervise the baked goods and desserts | Pastry chef Adrian Vasquez, most recently at Bin 36 in Chicago, is now creating the sweet endings at Providence for co-proprietor/chef Michael Cimarusti.
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NEW YORK

Dining for Darfur is a dining out charity event that will raise funds for humanitarian relief work in the war-ravaged state of Darfur in western Sudan. The fundraiser is organized by food writer Andrea Strong and will take place at restaurants around New York City (and beyond) on Sunday April 30th, coinciding with the Save Darfur rally in Washington DC. Participating restaurants have agreed to donate 5% of their gross sales for the evening of Sunday April 30th to the International Rescue Committee’s humanitarian relief efforts in Darfur and in the refugee camps in Chad. Dine at over 40 restaurants, including Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Suenos, The Riverdale Garden, The Stanton Social and Union Square Café. For a complete list of participating restaurants and for more information go to www.diningfordarfur.org | Casella and Beppe part ways. Exuberant Tuscan chef Cesare Casella—known for the signature sprig of fresh herbs in his pocket—has sold his interest at the Flatiron favorite where Marc Taxiera remains the chef. He’s cooking full-time at his West Village trattoria, Maremma. He’ll also be taking on an academic role come fall as dean of the French Culinary Institute’s new Italian program, offering classes downtown and in Parma, Italy | More severed ties: Tom Valenti parts ways with his partners. He is no longer involved with ’Cesca, but is retaining sole ownership of his beloved Ouest on the Upper West Side | David Féau has left his post at the recently opened Tribeca eatery Cercle Rouge. The former Lutèce chef is spending time in France | Michael Anthony, who was Dan Barber’s co-chef for years, first at Blue Hill in Manhattan and then at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, has left to work on a solo project | Christian Delouvrier, fresh from a menu-consulting project for The Carlyle, is heading south (and we don’t just mean south of 42nd Street). Jean Denoyer, the owner of grande dame La Goulue on the Upper East Side, has hired him to open restaurants in Florida | You might be tempted to skip the show at Radio City and head straight to the recently opened Brasserie Ruhlmann. The interior is an homage to Art Deco designer Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann. The chef is Georges Masraff, formerly of Tavern on the Green and Water’s Edge in Long Island City. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, serving Masraff’s classic brasserie fare, like onion soup, duck confit, and an exquisite Meyer lemon Napoleon | An unfortunate fire in a SoHo building not only wreaked havoc on the über-trendy Prada store, but substantially damaged Lure Fishbar next door. Owner John McDonald maintains that it will be closed for renovation for several months | Alex Ureña (ex-Blue Hill, Suba) has opened Ureña, his long-awaited Murray Hill eatery, where he draws heavily on the current Spanish culinary revolution for inspiration. Having worked at El Bulli, Ureña’s has the Ferran Adrià lexicon (foam, air, paper) down pat. His partner is pastry chef Caryn Stabinsky of WD-50 | Barcelona’s bustling Las Ramblas has long been the place to go for authentic tapas. But save the airfare, hail a cab, and aim for Las Ramblas in the West Village, where chef FernandoEcheverri of Pamplona, Spain, has created a menu of traditional Spanish delicacies | And if you prefer to cook up your own Spanish-style tidbits, you’ll find everything you need at Despaña in SoHo. The lovely retail shop is an offshoot of the Queens importer specializing in Spanish foods. Owners Angelica and Marcos Intriago offer an abundant but not overwhelming array of foodstuffs we love, including nearly 50 cheeses, smoked and cured fish, preserves, jarred peppers, vinegars, and select cooking vessels | All that downtown rambling, shopping, and food talk is sure to make you hungry. Stop by Kitchen Commune, where you’ll be greeted by superb French fries with mayonnaise-based dipping sauces, crêpes, macaroni and cheese, salads, and incomparable Balthazar breads and pastries. Need we say more? | Another newcomer to SoHo is Alex Garcia’s neighborhood Nuevo Latino place, Novo. The Cuban-born Garcia worked with Douglas Rodriguez at Yuca (Miami) and Patria before striking out on his own at Calle Ocho on the Upper West Side | I Trulli has a new chef. Nicholas “Nick” Martschenko used to cook at Gramercy Tavern | Alto has a new pastry chef, Tim Butler, who worked at Aquavit and Daniel. He replaces Patti Jackson | Craftbar reinvents itself, again. After relocating from an inviting space adjacent to Tom Colicchio’s handsome Craft into a formidable spot once briefly inhabited by Morrell’s, Craftbar upped its formal quotient, more in keeping with chef Akhtar Nawab’s considerable talents. But it also left loyal followers a bit confused. Now Nawab has left, and Craftbar is a neighborhood restaurant once again, with a lower price point and those fabulous fried sage leaves | There’s always Room 4 Dessert at the new all-dessert restaurant from pastry chef Will Goldfarb. We’ve been fans since his devilish days at Atlas, Papillon, and Cru. If Room 4 Dessert’s SoHo location feels somewhat familiar, it could be because you’ve been there when it was Bar Veloce, or Scott Conant’s Bar Tonno, or, most recently, Bar Sasa. This is it, though. We’re not letting Goldfarb’s high-concept sweets go anywhere | For their new Lower East Side pizza joint, Palà, owners Gigio and Edena Palazzo enlisted Roman pizzaiolo Francesco Etzi as their secret weapon. Using a state-of-the-art oven, extended natural yeast fermentation, and delightful ingredient combinations, Etzi’s pies are works of culinary wonder | What’s in a name? Not much, as long as the food is good. Last month we reported on the opening of Rio’s Churrascaria in Murray Hill. After only a few weeks of business, the owners have changed the name of this Brazilian steakhouse to Porcão, which reflects the name of the original chain back in Rio | Bolzano’s, an oversized Italian-American culinary production in the Theater District, has closed. Opened less than a year ago by Marc Packer and Tao chef Sam Hazen, it is now in the hands of the folks behind Brooklyn’s Jewish deli juggernaut, Junior’s. Expect a Manhattan branch later this year | A lot of talented sommeliers have left their restaurant posts to open wine shops lately, and we’re thrilled to have retail access to their personally selected favorites. Beard Award winner Jean-Luc Le Dû of Daniel opened Le Dû’s Wines in the West Village, and Scott Pactor of Balthazar relocated to Appellation Wines and Spirits in Chelsea, which has a focus on organic and biodynamic wines. Now comes Cellar 72 on the Upper East Side, the brainchild of Nice Matin sommelier Guy Goldstein | Feeling trendy? You’ll feel right at home at Whym in Columbus Circle. Chic modernity meets comfort food is the name of this game, as chef Mario Amero creates signature dishes such as duck ravioli with arugula, golden raisins, and manchego cream; and a peanut butter martini with dark chocolate ganache for dessert.
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PITTSBURGH

Manila-born restaurateur Manny St. Mary debuts Priscilla Dining in Art, an eclectic kitchen on the South Side serving Italian, American, and Filipino cuisine. The restaurant also houses an art gallery | Veteran fine-dining icon Baum Vivant has closed. Chef/owner Toni Pais continues to operate his other two restaurants, Cafe Zinho and Cafe Zao. Baum Vivant’s former kitchen team has moved to Sunnyledge, a boutique hotel in a historic Shadyside mansion, where executive chef Shawn Carlson, sous-chef Mike Noll, and lunch chef Ethan Gramberg are delivering a Mediterranean menu | More good-byes: Longtime restaurateur Frank Sacco (formerly of Piccolo PiccoloRistorante) retired, closing O’Leary’s in One Oxford Centre. Poli’s, a seafood institution since 1921, was court-shuttered in an estate dispute between the two Poli brothers. Plates 736 in Shadyside is gone (the space will reemerge as a different restaurant under a new owner). And two jazz spots, Crawford’s on the Square in Station Square and Legends of James Street Tavern, failed the bottom-line test | Chef Jonathon Vlasic bought Cento Anni Alla Famiglia from David Ayn and is totally transforming the space and menu | Pittsburgh Steelers wide receiver Hines Ward is one of three owners of the brand new Locker Room Bar & Grill on the South Side. Occasionally his teammates, including Jerome “The Bus” Bettis, serve as guest bartenders. Ward also plans to invite players from the Pirates and the Penguins to join his guest staff | Executive chef Chris Jackson (ex-Jake’s in Philadelphia), chef de cuisine Steven Bright, and sous-chef Keith Fuller (also from Jake’s) are running the show at Six Penn Kitchen in the Cultural District. The first such concept developed by Eat’n ParkHospitality Group, this upscale casual restaurant delivers fresh grilled fish and slow-cooked meat dishes | Shimon Ohayon, an Israeli Sephardic Jew, opened Pinati Mediterranean Grill in Squirrel Hill. The kosher kitchen serves the fresh, spicy flavors of Spain, North Africa, and the Middle East | Restaurateurs Jim and Judy Anderson have opened Flair, located in the Shadyside space that formerly housed Plates 736 and Bikki. Jim is initially serving as executive chef while Judy manages the front. The couple also owns PJ’s in Somerset, Pennsylvania.
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SAN DIEGO

Hey, Teach! James Foran, the extraordinary pastry chef at Arterra, has left his permanent post for a new career as an instructor for Grossmont College’s culinary program. He remains at the restaurant as a consultant | Other Arterra news: Bradley Ogden’s contract has expired. No word on whether the new owners will renew it. CarlSchroeder remains on board as executive chef | In Ocean Beach, Ed Moore, longtime owner of Thee Bungalow, has sold the restaurant to the prolific San Diego–based Cohn Restaurant Group. Moore will concentrate on his bistro and wine cellar, Third Corner. Cohn vows no changes to the restaurant | Lewis Butler has left his post as executive chef at the Rancho Bernardo Inn. He joins the Wolfgang Puck Catering Group as executive chef in Los Angeles. No replacement has been named | The San Diego Union-Tribune restaurant critic, Leslie James, has retired. Maria Hunt is taking over the reins.
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SAN FRANCISCO

The New Year flooding north of the Bay has left change in its wake. Yountville’s WineGarden, formerly the popular Diner, closed late in January. The small-plates restaurant had been struggling, but was ultimately sunk by the flooding, which closed roads and kept tourists away for too long to recover | Back in the city, our own little taste of Hawaii, Tita’s Hale Aina, has also closed. Owner Toni Lee is looking to open a place in Southern California | We also say goodbye and good luck to Donna and Frank Katzl, who have owned San Francisco’s Cafe for All Seasons for 23 years. The Katzls are retiring to Placer County and have sold the restaurant to a couple who plan to keep it the same, the staff and Donna’s recipes included | The Peninsula has long been in need of more dining options. Now there’s Quattro Restaurant and Bar at the Four Seasons Silicon Valley. Appetizers range from burrata with heirloom tomatoes to grilled calamari. A pasta and risotto menu offers dishes like artichoke risotto tortino, and for mains we look forward to truffle and Parmesan–crusted chicken scaloppini. Italian-born Alessandro Cartumini, formerly of the Four Seasons Scottsdale, is executive chef | For those of you attached to the City’s signature area code, (415) Asian Restaurant and Lounge has opened at the newly revamped Jewish Community Center. The menu, by John Beardsley, is Pan-Asian and mostly served family-style.
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SEATTLE

Trader Vic’s , the legendary French- Polynesian restaurant known for exotic cocktails and Pacific Island ambiance, opened in Bellevue’s Lincoln Square adjacent to the new Westin Hotel. General manager John Mark and executive chef Michael Weeks both previously worked at Dragonfish Asian Cafe. General partner is Paul Reder, owner of Bellevue’s Tap House Grill. The famed restaurant originally opened in downtown Seattle in 1949 and reigned supreme for four decades | Owner Peter Morrison (ex-Chez Shea) and chef Lauri Carter (ex-Matt’s in the Market) collaborated to open Moxie, a hip New American restaurant in the Queen Anne district | Owner Mike Davis recently named Michael Kline chef de cuisine at Walla Walla’s 26 Brix. Kline has an impressive resume: Tru in Chicago, the Eiffel Tower Restaurant in the Paris Las Vegas Casino, and a stint alongside Chicago-based chef Jean Joho of Brasserie Jo | Emmanuel Piqueras opened Mixtura on the Kirkland Waterfront. He trained at the Michelin three-starred Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain, and then returned to Peru to receive his degree in the Lima branch of Le Cordon Bleu. The menu reflects his Peruvian background | Luciano Bardinelli, owner of Ristorante Pellini, closed Sans Souci in Bellevue Place’s Wintergarden and moved his act down the block to Kemper Freeman’s Bellevue Square. Now he’s opened the elegant Italian Ristorante Luciano, complete with spacious dining room and front-of-the-house bar. Classically prepared dishes are predominately Italian with French accents | Porcella Urban Market, the dream of chef/owner Kelly Gaddis, opened in the heart of Old Bellevue on Main Street. It combines an upscale 30-seat cafe with a gourmet market and event space. Gaddis was the former co-owner and executive chef of Belltown’s Bada Lounge and has spent his 15-year culinary career cooking at Flying Fish, El Gaucho, Campagne, and the Ruins.
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