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March 2005
ATLANTA
Say Grace 17.20. The latest fine dining in Norcross
is in the Forum shops at Peachtree Corners. Grace
17.20 serves contemporary American cuisine made from
fresh, seasonal ingredients by chef Charles Schwab
(ex-Ritz-Carlton, Palm Beach, and Bacchanalia) and
sous-chef John Leichty (from Horseradish Grill).
The managing partner is CIA-trained Barbara DiJames
(formerly of Blue Ridge Grill and Sia’s). The
interior is all-French, with stone floors from Provence
and imported chandeliers for a wine-country feel.
Dinner entrées range from sautéed diver
scallops with sweet corn–poblano relish to
grilled pork chop with collard greens and caramelized
peaches | Near Grace,
in Duluth, comes the latest concept from CentraArchy
(New York Prime, Tavern, Joey D’s, etc.). California
Dreaming serves American continental cuisine in a
casual, fine-dining atmosphere that features 36-foot
ceilings, oak and cedar paneling, and an open kitchen.
(Another California Dreaming is already open in Augusta.)
Specialty menu items include fried crab claws, and
the cheesecake comes straight from the Carnegie Deli
in New York City | In
Cobb County, restaurant designer Mike Fusco has opened
a namesake southern Italian restaurant, Fusco’s
via Roma, in a historic building at 4815 South Main
Street in Acworth, formerly Eaton’s department
store. The executive chef is Fusco’s brother
David from Savannah, who prepares red-sauce fare
based on third-generation family recipes from Calabria,
Italy. The decor features a hand-built bar by a local
craftsman | Here to
Serve Restaurants (Shout, Twist, Prime, and Goldfish)
is planning a fast-fresh concept called Peri Peri
Chicken, named for the South African pepper. Located
near the relatively new Shout in midtown’s
Colony Square, the 4,000-square-foot restaurant will
offer marinated, roasted, and grilled chicken to
take out or eat in | Fifth
Group Restaurants (La Tavola Trattoria, The Food
Studio, Sala) has named Timothy Magee executive chef
at South City Kitchen. Magee began his Fifth Group
career at South City Kitchen before moving on to
La Tavola Trattoria for two years. Before that, he’d
cooked in Florida and at the Charleston Grille in
Charleston, South Carolina, under chef Bob Wagonner.
(Thank Buckhead Life for bringing him back to Atlanta
to work at the Buckhead Diner.) Magee’s new
menu items include pork osso buco with housemade
duck sausage, and cassoulet made from smoked duck
confit and white beans | Ever
since graduate school, Don Monaco had dreamed of
operating an upscale regional Italian restaurant.
After 20 years in the corporate world, he has opened
Trattoria Monaco at 5530 Windward Parkway in Alpharetta.
Executive chef Chad Scott and chef de cuisine Jordan
Lloyd make olive-crusted big-eye tuna and veal scaloppini,
among other dishes. The sleek interior features light
and dark woods and contemporary accents.
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BOSTON
Boston’s beloved chef Jacky Robert is opening Petit Robert Bistro this spring. The bi-level restaurant will serve an "express" lunch menu weekdays on its lower level, plus classic treats from the pastry bar. The upper level will serve candlelit dinner nightly by reservation. This summer, a street-side patio will allow guests to dine outdoors. 468 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, Massachusetts 02115. Call 617-375-0699 | The whole city mourned last year when the beloved
Maison Robert closed. Now devotees of the elegant
eatery have turned their frowns upside down with
the opening of Pierrot, a French bistro on Beacon
Hill owned by Maison Robert veteran Pierre Sosnitsky.
Jacky Robert is helping with the start-up as consulting
chef. Pierrot serves traditional bistro fare, such
as escargot or duck confit with red cabbage | Master
of Wine Sandy Block has joined Legal Sea Foods as
vice president of beverage operations. Block is one
of only 20 Masters of Wine in the country, of 240
in the world. His hire coincides with the opening
of Legal’s new wine cellar in its Park Square
location, which holds 11,000 bottles | With
a stint in Florence, Italy, under his belt, new chef
de cuisine Adam Halberg is enhancing the authentic
Italian experience at Via Matta. Halberg, most recently
of Caffe Umbra, replaces Luis Morales, who is taking
time off to explore opening his own place | Something
fishy is going on in that bastion of Italian American
tradition, Boston’s North End. Jeff Nace, former
beverage manager at Olives, has opened Neptune Oyster,
an Italian raw bar. Nace is focusing on New England
and regional Italian seafood, like lobster rolls
and cioppino | Despite
a major renovation in 2002, and rave reviews by critics,
the dining room at the “old” Ritz (on
Arlington Street, as opposed to the “new” Boston
Common Ritz on Avery Street) has shuttered its doors.
The 80-year-old dining room had long served as the
special occasion destination for Bostonians, but
waning business forced the closure. Chef Tony Esnault,
whose culinary prowess has drawn so much attention,
will stay on as head of catering | Even
though it was not a fine-dining Mecca, Harvard Square’s
Cafe Pamplona was an undeniable fixture in the local
food scene—an unpretentious hub where hungry
intellectuals could sip Spanish coffee and slurp
garlic soup. But they will slurp no longer. Josefina
Yanguas, the eighty-eight year old owner, closed
shop in January after 50 years behind the counter.
On the closing night, in true Cambridge fashion,
people of all ages stopped by for one last visit
to read poems, tell stories, and reminisce.
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HOUSTON
Chris Perry’s group of restaurants welcomes
Magnus Hansson. He is collaborating on new menu items
at all of the Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille
and Perry’s Italian Grille locations, as well
as overseeing Perry’s wine dinners. Hansson,
a native of Sweden, earned a Michelin star for his
work at the Place, a restaurant in Gothenburg, Sweden | Pamela
Manovich is back in Houston and once again creating
pastry magic at Prego. Manovich divides her time
between her hometown of Houston and Cody, Wyoming.
In the summers, she is executive chef at the dude
ranch Double Diamond X, near Yellowstone Park | Christophe
Paul e-mailed us to say that his Cafe Rabelais has
moved. When the landlord decided to tear down the
old building, he offered to relocate the tiny French
bistro to 2442 Times Boulevard, where the Fusion
Cafe once was. The new, roomier space has a bar to
accommodate customers waiting for a table. Until
the last wall comes down, Paul and his wife, Laurence,
will keep their original location as a wine bar/wine
shop called Cafe Rabelais Bar à Vin. Look
for the same feel at the new restaurant, where even
the paint color is the same | Tony’s,
long the epitome of well-heeled Houston dining, closed
on New Year’s Eve to relocate. The new restaurant
in Greenway Plaza where Maxim’s once stood
should be open by this month | Bistro
Moderne at the Hotel Derek has a sibling. The more
casual Bistro Cafe has debuted within the sleek main
restaurant, featuring a customized pewter bar, aged
mirrors, and classic dark wood banquettes. The menu
includes both tuna and steak tartare, as well as
stuffed mussels and hand-cut frites | On
the drawing board: Vincent and Mary Mandola (together
with their daughters as partners) are opening a new
quick, casual restaurant called Pronto Cucinino.
It will be located in a large building now under
construction at 1401 Montrose. The menu features
favorites from Vincent’s and Nino’s,
including the popular roasted chicken. You can dine
in, take out, or call ahead and have your food brought
out to your car | Further
south on Montrose, the River Cafe, once one of the
hippest bars in Houston, will be torn down to make
way for a new 13-story condo called the Riparian,
which will house a two-story restaurant on the ground
floor that will provide room service | The
Benihana Group is bringing a second concept to Houston,
probably this summer. RA Sushi Bar Restaurant will
go into a new building in Highland Village, near
the old Grotto location. The restaurant will be going
after a younger, hipper crowd with fusion dishes
and a rock ’n’ roll attitude | Chef/restaurateur
Anita Jaisinghani tells us that her Indika is relocating
to the Montrose/Westheimer area. The new spot is
scheduled to debut this fall.
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LOS
ANGELES
Women Chefs & Restaurateurs (WCR) will host At the Table: Toasting Women Chefs & Restaurateurs on Monday, March 7, 2005. The evening will celebrate the careers of California’s leading women chefs, and proceeds from the event will benefit WCR’s Scholarship and Internship Program. Some of the participating chefs include Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken of Border Grill and Ciudad; Josie La Balch of Josie’s; Allyson Thurber of The Lobster; and Sherry Yard of Spago, plus Christine Keff of Flying Fish, Seattle, and Nora Pouillon of Nora and Asia Nora (Washington, DC). The event will take place at the Music Box at the Fonda Theater, 6126 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA. Wine and Hors d’oeuvres will be served from 5:30-6:00 p.m., followed by a 5-course tasting and Cordial Reception. Tickets are $150 and may be purchased online at www.womenchefs.org or by calling toll-free at 877-927-7787 | The much-anticipated Providence,
featuring seafood-focused cuisine, is scheduled to
launch this month in the original Patina space in
Hollywood. The co-owner/executive chef is Michael
Cimarusti, longtime exec at downtown’s Water
Grill. Joining him in the venture is respected front
of house veteran Donato Poto, who moves over from
Bastide. Cimarusti and Poto have collaborated on
the deep wine list. The interior has been refreshed
with striking marine-themed wall installations | Scooter
Kanfer-Cartmill, the chef with a touch of whimsy,
is back in the kitchen with Naya Restaurant Moderne
in Old Town Pasadena, where she is also a partner.
Scooter closed the House (her first entrepreneurial
venture) in Hollywood last year. The new venture’s
menu is progressive American cuisine and changes
seasonally, with ingredients from local farmers and
purveyors. Partner Thierry Perez (ex-Daniel) is both
general manager and sommelier | The
Restaurant at Hotel Bel-Air has just reopened after
a major three-week renovation. The $500,000 project
adds Italian hand-blown glass chandeliers and a more
casual feel to one of L.A.’s most romantic
settings. Executive chef Douglas Dodd’s California
cuisine with French accents remains in place | Geisha
House, a modern Japanese restaurant in Hollywood,
is the latest from the Dolce Group (Dolce Enoteca)
and new partner Adolfo Suaya (founder of the Gaucho
Grill restaurants). The executive chef is Genichi
Mizoguchi, formerly of Megu in New York City’s
TriBeCa neighborhood. His menu offers hand rolls,
sushi and sashimi, tempura, and robata-yaki, as well
as hot and cold dishes. The two-level interior feels
like an energetic Tokyo nightspot, and includes a
distinctive sake lounge | After
14 months as executive chef, Enrico Glaudo (ex-Primi)
has purchased Frascati Ristorante & Bar in Redondo
Beach from its restaurateur founders. Glaudo also
now assumes the general manager duties, and the interior
has been freshened to create a brighter look | Proprietor
Tim Goodell of Domaine Restaurants has passed the
culinary reins of his flagship restaurant Aubergine
in Newport Beach to Joseph Centeno (ex-Manresa in
Los Gatos.) Expect more global ingredient combinations | Alan
Ashkinaze (ex-Trevisio in Houston) is now filleting
the fresh fish at Aqua, part of the St. Regis Monarch
Beach Resort in Dana Point. Earlier in his career,
Ashkinaze served an apprenticeship with the Aqua
Group’s corporate executive chef, Laurent Manrique,
in southwestern France. They also previously worked
together at Peacock Alley and Gertrude’s, both
in Manhattan | The
recently opened Ozuma in Fashion Island in Newport
Beach has secured the services of Katsuo Nagasawa
(the opening and long-standing exec at Café del
Rey) as executive chef. Filling out the culinary
team is sous-chef Tony Zervas, formerly the chef
de cuisine at Accents restaurant at the Sutton Place
Hotel | In other Sutton
Place Hotel news, the greatly admired Dominique Briaire
has departed as top toque after 18 years. He now
leads the culinary brigade at the exclusive, very
private Shady Canyon Golf Club in nearby Irvine | The
youthful Citrine Restaurant in West Hollywood has
changed culinary direction with the hiring of Kevin
Meehan, who most recently was the inaugural sous-chef
at Bastide. Meehan’s menu includes traditional
and modern French fare. His seared foie gras with
candied Swiss chard and toasted hazelnuts is already
a classic | When the
re-energized Le Dome on the Sunset Strip reopened
in late 2003, co-founder Eddie Kerkhofs retained
a small ownership interest in the revamped enterprise
and greeted the new generation of guests at the door
as he had for the previous 25 years. Kerkhofs has
sold the rest of his piece to his partners, RTDB
Restaurant Group. Daniel Flores (ex-ZenZero) has
been appointed general manager | Brentwood’s
little gem of a neighborhood restaurant, Zax, which
served as the launching pad for a couple of youthful
chefs including Brooke Williamson (Amuse Cafe), has
closed after four years. Owner Chris Schaefer is
reportedly looking for a larger space with a full
liquor license on the Westside. The existing location
will be transformed into yet another Italian restaurant.
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NEW
ORLEANS
Chef Duke LoCicero has a new
addition to his very popular Café Giovanni,
where the waitstaff sings opera most nights. Belli
Baci is a lounge within the restaurant geared to
appetizers and aperitifs in a relaxed atmosphere | A
changing of the guard was inevitable when chef Stephen
Hassinger moved to Canada leaving Cafe Degas chef-less.
It was a serendipitous time for Ryan Hughes, who
worked at the now defunct Lee Circle Restaurant,
and has stepped into Hassinger’s shoes. David
Esses, sous-chef at Cafe Degas, also departed to
open his own restaurant, the Bank Cafe | Donald
Link, chef and co-owner of Herbsaint, has more irons
in the fire—literally. He is opening Cochon,
a very serious Cajun restaurant that will feature
a wood grill for meats and homemade sausages, as
well as other dishes rarely seen on his sophisticated
Herbsaint menu | Two
local guys have restored the Parkway Bakery and are
dedicated to preserving it as a haven for the New
Orleans po-boy. Jay Nix and John Blancher, who was
instrumental in Ye Old College Inn and Mid City Lanes
Rock ‘N Bowl, are the powers that be in this
commendable endeavor. The New Orleans Po-Boy Preservation
Society was established late last year by the Leidenheimer
Bakery people | Also
new on the scene and causing quite a commotion is
the Southern Food & Beverage Museum and its debut
exhibit, titled “A Toast of New Orleans.”
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NEW
YORK
"Vision of Palate" is a tasting workshop geared towards helping those with visual disabilities further develop and appreciate their sense of taste, smell and touch. The workshop is free and donations will go to The Andrew Heiskell Braille and Talking Book Library and to cure youth with visual disabilities in India through Save the Children Organization. Workshops start March 15, 2005. For info call Vikas Khanna at 1-866-543-2781 | Under new management. Elad Properties has decided
to remake the Plaza Hotel into condominiums, retail
stores, and a far smaller hotel. As part of the reconfiguration,
the development company is not renewing the leases
of several of the hotel’s watering holes, most
notably One C.P.S., run by the Smith & Wollensky
Group and former home to chef Scott Ubert. The Oak
Room and the Oyster Bar have closed as well, but
the Oak Bar and the Palm Court—where afternoon
tea is a New York City ritual—will remain open.
Eventually, restaurants are expected to operate within
the Plaza again, but they will be under new management | Marcus
Samuelsson and Hakan Swahn’s Townhouse Group,
which owns the newly relocated Aquavit and Riingo,
among others, has taken over the food operations
aboard the World Yacht fleet. Dutchess, the first
vessel to be refurbished, welcomes aboard chef Sean
Fetters, who previously worked in the galley at the
Hilton at Short Hills Hotel in New Jersey and at
the Water Club in Manhattan | Mario
Batali, Joseph Bastianich, and chef David Pasternack—the
team behind Esca—have debuted their new project,
the casual French Bistro du Vent; the name is a playful
reference to the windy conditions west of Times Square.
Pasternack’s right-hand man is Lawrence DiJoseph,
and together they have created a menu of soul-satisfying,
reasonably priced dishes | We’ll
just have to amuse ourselves elsewhere. Gerry Hayden,
who wowed us with his modern, very approachable cooking
(we’ve been fans since Aureole) at Amuse in
the Flatiron District, has left, and he’s taking
the name with him. Hayden plans to open Amuse in
a different location sometime in the future with
his partner and wife, pastry chef Claudia Fleming.
In the meantime, the space will be transformed this
month into Chelsea Oyster Bar and Grill. Owner Steve
Tzolis has retained chef de cuisine Bobby Duncan,
who has been working under Hayden for some time,
to oversee the change | Bar
Tonno is bar no mo’. After a few months of
serving up creative, mostly raw, Italian-style seafood,
owners chef Scott Conant and Chris Cannon have called
it quits. (Not to worry, their beloved L’Impero
continues to thrive.) The duo will instead focus
on their soon-to-be-opened Alto in Midtown. Meanwhile,
the former Bar Tonno sous-chef, Kyohei Fukushi, who
made his mark at Philadelphia’s Morimoto, will
stay on and reopen a more traditional sushi bar.
Stay tuned for details | Calling
all bocadillo lovers. That’s “sandwich” in
Spanish to tú and mi. Sala One-Nine
serves lunch and dinner in the Flatiron District,
with menu items such as grilled vegetable bocadillo
with romesco sauce, and adobo–pork loin sandwich
with melted cheese and piquillo peppers. A Sala sibling
in the East Village serves dinner only | For
a different kind of sandwich experience, head to
Tony Luke’s Old Philly Style Sandwiches. It’s
a no-frills Philly export, but you’ll hardly
notice the modest surroundings after tasting their
crunchy Italian fries, fabulous cheese steak, or
knockout garlicky broccoli rabe and warm provolone
sandwich (with or without the roast pork) | We’re
already big fans of BLT Steak (cheesy popovers! Yum!)
so we couldn’t be happier about its offspring—BLT
Fish. Chef Laurent Tourondel’s latest endeavor,
in the former AZ space in the Flatiron District,
is a work in progress. The ground floor, with a casual
New England seafood shack vibe, is open. The waitstaff,
sporting cheeky t-shirts, slink past the rawbar,
while unpolished oak tables provide a nice backdrop
to Tourondel’s classic lobster roll with tangy
slaw and dark fries; fried oysters and clams; guilt-inducing
New England chowder; and an array of simple seafood
entrées. The elegant third-floor dining room,
with a much more sophisticated fish and seafood menu,
will debut shortly | Sandia
has opened in the former subterranean Snackbar with
an intriguing Latin menu. Don’t miss the watermelon
cocktails; the salmon skin, bacon, and queso fresco
sushi roll with calamari–lemon aïoli;
or the whole fried red snapper with shrimp, yuca,
orange, and sweet chili pesto | Sushi
East and West. Masatoshi Sugio, aka “Gari,” is
the man behind the popular Upper East Side destination,
Sushi of Gari. His new outpost across the Park offers
the same distinctive style, courtesy of chef/partner
Mike Lim, sushi chef Atsuomi Hotta and sous-chef
(and blowfish licensee) Masahiro Akaboshi. Signature
dishes include lemongrass and lentil miso soup; duckling
with balsamic teriyaki and pickled kumquat; and,
presumably, blowfish | Meatpacking
District newcomer Nero is a lovely, rustic Italian
restaurant that replaces the recently shuttered Zitoune.
Owners Bobby and Enrico Malta have had some practice
with the genre: they also own Sette, Arte Café,
and Intermezzo. Chef Camillo Bassani’s cooking
reflects an international influence and perhaps the
clientele’s preferences. Start off with a warmed
burrata—the Pugliese fresh mozzarella and butter
bundle—served with prosciutto San Daniele.
Then head straight to the sautéed black cod
with black truffle sauce.
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WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Cloud Dining Lounge, formerly Savino's Café, has opened in Washington, DC. Restaurateurs Savino Recine and John Tsiaoushis collaborated on the concept of this ethereal, white on white lounge which is open daily, offering an eclectic tapas menu late into the night. One Dupont Circle, NW, Washington, DC 20036. Call 202-872-1122 | The President has a new executive
pastry chef. Thaddeus R. Dubois, of the Borgata Hotel & Casino
in New Jersey, has been hired to work at the White
House, making him the first American-born executive
pastry chef since the Kennedy Administration | Mark
Miller has opened an upscale Mexican restaurant,
Takuba, in Alexandria’s Bradley Shopping Center,
where Desert Moon used to be. After his concept is
tweaked, the plan is to roll them out nationally,
working with franchise development company Fransmart | Chef
updates: Martin Saylor, formerly of Butterfield 9,
is now executive chef of Juniper in the Fairmont
Hotel. Daniel Mullins has been named executive chef
at Kimpton properties Bar Rouge, Topaz, and Helix
Lounge. A CIA grad, he formerly worked at Carmichael’s
in Chicago. Vikram Garg has been named executive
chef at IndeBleu on G Street across from the MCI
Center. Rodolfo Guzman, formerly from Jaleo Downtown,
is now head chef at Jaleo Crystal City. Scott Youden,
ex-Red Sage, is now head chef at Oyamel, also in
Crystal City. Nathan Anda, formerly of Equinox and
Market Salamander, is the chef at Tallula in Arlington,
which is owned by the folks who brought you Evening
Star in Del Ray, Vermilion in Old Town Alexandria,
Clarendon Grill, and Clarendon Ballroom.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Cancun, Mexico
Michelle Bernstein, who was at Azul at the Miami
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, has now opened MB in Aqua,
a resort in Cancun.
Garden City, NY
Partners Richard Ciullo and Atillio Renny have opened
Uncle Bacala’s Restaurant in Garden City, New
York, with chef Servando Galeano (ex-Rouge and Steak
au Poivre) and consulting chef David Ruggerio (ex-Sushi
A-Go-Go and La Caravelle). The menu emphasizes seafood.
Healdsburg, CA
Maître d’ Nick Peyton and chef Douglas
Keane, who previously collaborated on Market in St.
Helena, are set to open the intimate Cyrus. The restaurant
is located within the new boutique hotel, Les Mars
Hotel, in downtown Healdsburg and is named for Cyrus
Alexander, who discovered the Alexander Valley. Cyrus
will offer a luxurious, French-influenced contemporary
menu.
Las Vegas
Celebrated seafood chef Rick Moonen has opened rm
seafood, joining the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino’s
big-name lineup of destination restaurants. The space
offers two dining experiences. Upstairs is restaurant
rm. Downstairs is r.bar.cafe, a modern brasserie.
Nantucket, Massachusetts
There are less than 60 shopping days until The 9th
Annual Nantucket Wine Festival, slated this year
for May 18 to 22. Situated in the White Elephant
Hotel within the heart of downtown, the event attracts
world-renowned winemakers, chefs, and celebrities.
Paradise Island, Bahamas
Three of New York City’s top chefs have signed
on to open restaurants at the Atlantis Resort on Paradise
Island over the course of the next two years. First
up is Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who will recreate
Café Martinique (featured in the James Bond
movie Thunderball) in British colonial style, courtesy
of restaurant designer Adam Tihany. The cafe, to be
in Marina Village, will be Vongerichten’s second
Caribbean project; he runs the restaurant at the One&Only
Ocean Club, also on Paradise Island. By the end of
the year, Nobu Matsuhisa is expected to open a branch
of Nobu in the Royal Towers; it will replace Five Twins
restaurant. Designed by architect David Rockwell, Nobu
will feature a lounge, sushi bar, and sake cellar.
Rounding out the group is Bobby Flay, who is developing
a Mesa Grill in the new, 600-room hotel that the Atlantis
plans to open at the end of next year. Flay’s
signature Southwestern cuisine will have a Bahamian
twist: the |centerpiece of the restaurant is to be
a two-story rotisserie.
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