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October 2004
| ATLANTA
Vine has planted itself in Virginia
Highlands. Owner Paul Jordan remodeled the former Tibourn
Grille and installed David Maini (ex-Brio’s) in
the kitchen, where he’s cooking up an American
bistro menu | Gerry Klaskala
(Aria) has opened Che’ in the former Blais space
in Buckhead with partners George McKerrow Jr. and Ron
San Martin (We’re Cookin’ Inc.). Carvel
Grant Gould (ex-Canoe) offers tapas and Latin entrées
| Don Diem, former executive
chef of Merlot in Buckhead, has moved to the 60-seat
Bitter End Seafood in Roswell
| Coming this fall is France’s Au Pied
de Cochon brasserie in the new Intercontinental Hotel
on Peachtree Street near Lenox Square. The 24-hour restaurant
will feature French cuisine |
Recent closings include Commune in Midtown,
Casbah on North Highland, the Brooklyn Café at
the Forum, and the landmark Jim White’s Half Shell
in the Peachtree Battle Center
| Nicolas Romo (ex-The Ritz-Carlton Buckhead)
is chef of the new Café at East Andrews in Buckhead.
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| CHICAGO
Following the departure of chefs
Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris from The Ritz-Carlton,
the hotel’s award-winning pastry chef, En-Ming
Hsu, has also resigned. Hsu, who recently got engaged,
has followed her fiancé, also a chef, to Las
Vegas. Stegner’s replacement is Chicago native
Kevin Hickey of the Four Seasons Atlanta
| Dale Levitsky has taken over the helm at Trio,
replacing Grant Achatz. Levitsky was most recently head
chef of La Tache. He’s being joined by pastry
chef Mary McMahon, who has spent the last 12 years at
Vivere. Achatz amicably walked away from his stupendous
three-year run at Trio and is looking forward to opening
his own restaurant, to be called Alinea
| Paul Virant has opened his own restaurant,
Vie, in Western Springs, the first to serve liquor in
that suburb since Prohibition. Virant, whose stellar
credentials include Charlie Trotter’s, Ambria,
Everest, and Blackbird, calls his food “seasonal
contemporary American cuisine.” Offerings include
home-pickled asparagus, mushrooms, and sour cherries,
pan-fried walleye pike, and warm chestnut spice cake
with walnut-caramel ice cream
| Irish eyes are smiling on the recently opened
Grace O’Malley’s Restaurant & Pub on
south Michigan Avenue, named after a female pirate from
the 1500s. Jack Kennedy is dishing out such fare as
Dublin cheese steak, and Guinness and Irish cheddar
soup.
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| LOS
ANGELES
The Regent Beverly Wilshire hotel
in Beverly Hills plans to turn The Dining Room into
a classic American steakhouse by the Wolfgang Puck Fine
Dining Group next June. Bruno Lopez (ex-Raffles L’Ermitage
Hotel) now runs the kitchens, replacing 13-year veteran
Urs Balmer. The renowned Richard Meier will design the
space | Alex Scrimgeour
has closed Alex in Hollywood after two years to return
to Great Britain to open a restaurant in the Battersea
Power Station district of London. Tim and Liza Goodell
(Aubergine) are taking over the site
| Gingergrass, featuring Vietnamese cuisine,
has debuted in Silver Lake. Stirring the pho is Mako
Antonishek, fondly remembered for her time at the short-lived
Le Colonial branch in Los Angeles
| Akwa Cal Asian Restaurant & Sushi Bar
in Santa Monica is a new venture for Jeff Peterson (Geoffrey’s
in Malibu), with executive chef Fortunato Garcia (ex-Jozu)
and fourth-generation sushi chef Hirotaka Fujita. Akwa
replaces Peterson’s Union
| Angelenos were saddened by the sudden closing
of Leo’s, a barbecue shack of great acclaim in
the Crenshaw district. The good news is that ace pit-meister
Mr. Phillips of Phillips’ Barbecue has assumed
stewardship of the location and retained most of the
staff. It remains takeout only
| Gorikee in Woodland Hills serves a Cal-Asian
menu with touches of French, Italian, and Japanese cuisines.
Chef/owner Tsuji Atsuhiro is a veteran of Chaya Venice
| Michi Takahashi has
added a sushi bar to Michi in Manhattan Beach. Sushi
master Nick Nishi (ex-Chaya Venice) is in charge
| John Cuevas is the new chef de cuisine at
The Loft at Montage Resort & Spa in Laguna Beach
| After cooking in London
for five years, Chris Minutoli has returned to JiRaffe
Restaurant in Santa Monica as chef de cuisine
| Since the Tam O’Shanter Inn opened in
1922 in Los Feliz, it has had a mere handful of executive
chefs. New to this exclusive club is Wally Mogollon
(ex-Marmalade Café and King’s Seafood Co.).
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| NEW
ORLEANS
Matthew Guidry and James Conte
have opened the Meauxbar Bistro on North Rampart Street
| Nearby, Big Shirley’s
has reopened after a short hiatus and gets rave reviews
for its fried chicken |
For the big breakfast eaters, Blue Plate Café
is now open on Prytania Street featuring pumpkin pancakes
and portobello mushrooms caps with scrambled eggs
| Attorney Alex Kelly has returned to New Orleans
to open The Bank in the Marigny Triangle, featuring
art by Chuck Connelly and a menu by Daniel Esses (ex-
Peristyle, August).
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| NEW
YORK
Looking for a fun Halloween activity for your kids? Eleven Madison Park in New York City's Flatiron District will be hosting a "Halloween Kids Cooking School" taught by Chef Kerry Heffernan and Pastry Chef Nicole Kaplan on Saturday, October 30th, from 11am-2pm. Located at 11 Madison Avenue at 24th Street. For additional information call 212-889-0905 | The Hearts for Hope Gala to
benefit City of Hope Cancer Center will take place
on Thursday, November 4, 2004, at Capitale,130 Bowery,
New York City, from 7 pm to Midnight. VIP Tickets,
$250 in advance or $300 at the door. VIPs will feast
on culinary delights prepared by Chef Eric Francou
of Mad 28 and Chef Joseph Macri of Candela. Gala
Tickets, $150 in advance or $200 at the door. The
evening's entertainment includes live cabaret, bands,
DJ provided by Q104.3, dancing, raffles, silent and
live auction. Black-Tie Optional. For additional
event information visit www.cityofhope.org/newyork/heartsforhope
or contact City of Hope at 212-645-3800 or 800-732-7205 | Experience the creative forces of seven up-and-coming chefs at an elegant dinner at Oceana restaurant in New York City. Participating chefs include Cornelius Gallagher and David Carmichael of Oceana; Wylie Dufresne of WD-50; Brad Thompson of Mary Elaine's at the Phoenician; Shea Gallante of Cru; Brian Bistrong of The Harrison; and Johnny Iuzzini of Jean Georges Restaurant. Tuesday, October 19, 2004 at Oceana - 55 East 54th St. Multi-course tasting menu, including wines is $175 per person. Call to reserve at 212-759-5941 |
Delete the “De.” Chef
Sam DeMarco has sold DeMarco’s Room. The new owners,
Barbara and chef Marco Martelli, have brightened the
space and renamed it Marco New York. The menu, now Tuscan,
is new too | Meanwhile,
DeMarco has also closed his hip First in the East Village,
and he is no longer involved with District in the Theater
District, where Robert Curran (Lotus Club, Adrienne
in the Peninsula) has been promoted to executive chef
| Passage to India. Former
D’Artagnan restaurant space has been transformed
into Darbar, an elegant new venture from the owners
of Indian Taj in Jackson Heights. The menu offers traditional
Indian dishes and what New York magazine dubbed “trans-ethnic”
preparations, for example, Indian-spiced potato croquettes
stuffed with goat cheese |
A new East Village trattoria worthy of a special trip,
Cacio E Pepe is named for a legendary Roman dish made
with pasta, generous shavings of Pecorino, and black
pepper. Chef/partner Salvatore Corea serves it to customers
to full dramatic effect from a hollowed-out 25-pound
wheel of Pecorino. Alessandro Peluso, his partner and
a native Roman, helps to maintain the regional authenticity
while at the same time allowing Corea to branch out.
Other excellent dishes include lardo-wrapped grilled
shrimp with cannellini beans, and skewers of mussels
served with artichokes and monkfish saltimbocca
| Rêve is the setting for the culinary
comeback of chef Renaud LeRasle, who was last seen dishing
up mounds of caviar and buckets of borscht at the legendary
Russian Tea Room. The decor at his new home on the Upper
East Side may not be as unforgettable as at his last
(what could be?), but his Asian-inflected French menu
is. Try the lobster salad with yuzu jelly and summer
melon, and the roasted duck marinated in honey and miso
with corn pancakes and duck confit dumpling
| It’s named Texas Smokehouse BBQ and
Bourbon Bar, but it’s very much in Manhattan.
Chef/owner John Lewis, who learned his considerable
pit skills in Texas and Louisiana, offers barbecue flavors
from several regions, but his specialty is Texas-style
beef ribs and brisket, dry-rubbed, slow-cooked, and
finger-lickin’-good |
At the new UKNEWYORK, in TriBeCa, chef Fiona Carmichael
recreates classic English dishes such as beef Wellington,
black pudding with seared scallops, and toad in the
hole with Stout gravy. Customers can wash it down with
a rye vodka martini, whimsically named Thatcher in the
Rye. Carmichael, who hails from London, worked in several
other fields before joining the restaurant industry,
among them law enforcement, butler services, and catering
| Last month, James Beard
Award-winner Scott Conant (L’Impero) opened Bar
Tonno, a casual raw seafood place in Soho, where he
is focusing on Italian raw fish dishes, or crudo, such
as fluke with porcini and seaweed salad, and anchovies
with marinated eggplant. His partners in Bar Tonno are
Christopher Cannon and Jane Eptsein, also from L’Impero,
and Frederick Twomey, who, along with Cannon, owns the
chain of hip Bar Veloce’s around town
| Another steaks a claim. Capital Grille, an
Atlanta-based company with some 15 locations nationwide,
recently opened in Manhattan, adjacent to the Chrysler
Building in Midtown. The menu is standard steakhouse
and seafood fare, with a lengthy wine list
| Alain Allegretti has left the executive chef
job at Le Cirque 2000 to become the chef at Atelier
in The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park. Allegretti
replaces Gabriel Kreuther, who is now working for Danny
Meyer’s restaurant group on the restaurant that
is scheduled to open in the renovated Museum of Modern
Art next month | Peripatetic
chef Gavin Citron, former chef of such popular watering
holes as Aja, Celadon, and Aleutia, opened One in the
Meatpacking district to much fanfare, but then packed
up his knife kit again. His latest venture is Citron
in the West Village, where he’s turning out a
modern American-fusion menu |
Buenas Noches, Time Square. After a two-year
run, the Latin-themed restaurant, Noche, closed last
month. Partners David Emil and chef Michael Lomonaco
offered live music and vibrant cooking, but the leaseholder
is looking for a high-volume (dare we say, chain?) restaurant
for the space. Emil and Lomonaco will concentrate on
their new acquisition, Guastavino’s under the
59th Street Bridge, which they intend to close in January
in order to retool. Lomonaco will act as director and
executive chef. Lomonaco, by the way, is scheduled to
cook at the Beard House on October 26. (See page 30
for details) | James-Beard
Foundation Award winners Mario Batali, David Pasternack,
and Joseph Bastianich are expanding their restaurant
collection. Later this fall, they will add Rue De Vent,
literally “windy street,” near their successful
Esca. The menu will highlight specialties from southern
France | New noodle bar
of note. The high-tech Karim Rashid—designed Nooch
in Chelsea, one of a Singapore-based chain, offers an
assortment of Japanese and Thai noodle dishes, plus
cool cocktails | Who doesn’t
harbor a fantasy about being the restaurant critic for
The New York Times? Well, a few people have actually
held the post, and the person who held it the longest
was the unflappable Mimi Sheraton. Sheraton has written
a delicious memoir that covers her years at the country’s
paper of record and much more. Sink your teeth into
Eating My Words: An Appetite for Life (HarperCollins)
| Adieu to a friend. Leslie
Revsin, the first woman to achieve the title of chef
at the Waldorf=Astoria, died in August at age 59 after
a one-year struggle with cancer. New Yorkers will also
remember Revsin for her own Restaurant Leslie in the
West Village and for kitchen posts at 24 Fifth Avenue,
Bridge Café, and Argenteuil. Her last restaurant
job was at the Inn at Pound Ridge in Pound Ridge, New
York. Revsin’s cookbooks include the 2004 Beard
Foundation award-nominated Come for Dinner: Memorable
Meals to Share with Friends.
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| PHILADELPHIA
Michael Weik (Yangming, Mandarin
Garden) and Scott Morrison (Tango, Basil) have opened
Nectar, a bi-level Asian fusion restaurant in Berwyn.
Patrick Fuery, late of Suilan at the Borgata, Susanna
Foo, and Le Cirque, is executive chef. Wo Quin Huamng
(fomerly of Yangming) is the chief Chinese chef. The
sushi chef is Sano Sherpa |
Verge, a stylish new indoor/outdoor restaurant overlooking
Kelly Drive and the Schuylkill River, features the eclectic
modern American food of Shawn Dolan
| Avram Hornick (Lucy’s Hat Shop, Loie)
has opened Amedeo, a kosher Italian restaurant on the
site of the former Taj Mahal on Chestnut Street. The
menu features homemade pasta, grilled fish fillets,
and “raw” food |
Gene Betz, the chef who tweaked the classic Italian
menu at The Saloon, has left to be chef at Twenty Twenty-One,
a dramatic new restaurant in Commerce Square. Jerome
Palumbo replaces him |
Kevin von Klause (White Dog Café) is partnering
with Wendy Smith Borne and James Barrett (Metropolitan
Bakery) to open Farmacia, on the site of Bruce Coopers’
(Jake’s) recently closed Amedeo
| Sean Sollberger (ex-Davio’s) has opened
Blue Horse Restaurant & Tavern in the former Marabella’s
in Blue Bell.
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| PITTSBURGH
Alain Pizzutti has hired chef Michelle
Volte to change his Shadyside restaurant Eno into tapas
spot Pamplona | Jason
Gulisano (ex-Lespinasse) recently arrived as executive
chef at Glendorn, a Relais & Château hotel
near Bradford, Pennsylvania |
The Art Institute’s Culinary Arts Program
has opened a restaurant, Taste of Art, where student
chefs practice their skills for the public at lunch,
Monday through Wednesday |
Melanie Evankovich (ex-big Burrito Group) has opened
Gypsy Café on the South Side. Meanwhile, fellow
big Burrito alumnus Rob Reese opened the Red Room Café
and Lounge in East Liberty |
Kristian Holbrook (ex-Magnolia Grill) is revamping the
menu at the historic Green Gables Restaurant in Jennerstown.
He replaces Ray Hornet, who moved on to Hidden Valley
Ski Resort.
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| SAN
DIEGO
Arterra in the Marriott Hotel in
Carmel Valley has welcomed pastry chef James Foran.
Foran comes to San Diego from the Bellagio in Las Vegas
(Arterra chef Carl Schroeder will be cooking at the
Beard House on October 15. See page 19 for details)
| MaryJo Testa has left
her post as executive chef at downtown’s Laurel
| Vicki Lucas has sold
150 Grand Cafe in Escondido to chef Carlton Greenawalt
and his wife Stephanie. Lucas will retire to Puerto
Rico | Josh McGinnis has
resigned as executive chef of downtown’s Prego
and is looking for a new spot in San Diego
| Tom Atkins, longtime executive chef at L’Auberge
Del Mar, has moved to the Boise Center on the Grove
in Boise, Idaho.
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| SAN
FRANCISCO
After 2 ½ years, the revolutionary
raw food fine-dining restaurant, Roxanne’s in
Larkspur, has closed. Chef/owner Roxanne Klein won tremendous
critical praise and the enthusiastic support of Charlie
Trotter, with whom she collaborated on a cookbook. The
take-out shop, Roxanne’s To Go, remains open.
The restaurant was losing money.
| After opening Tartare earlier this year, George
Morrone (ex-Aqua, Fifth Floor) is set to open an Argentine
steakhouse in Novato, in Marin County. The space is
the former Ristorante Orsi on Ignacio Boulevard. Morrone’s
mother is Argentinean, and he has visited the country
many times. He says it has been his dream to open this
kind of place | The PlumpJack
Group is set to finish turning the short-lived Two B
on Second Street into Jack Falstaff
| Executive chef Erik Cosselmon has left Cetrella
Bistro & Cafe in Half Moon Bay to take over as executive
chef at Kokkari Estiatorio, the Greek restaurant on
Jackson Street | The Cliff
House plans to reopen with Sutro, situated in a new
two-story wing with floor-to-ceiling windows affording
an ocean view on Point Lobos Avenue
| Lorenzo Petroni has sold Basta Pasta to Chris
Foley and his wife, Chalerm “Aom” Foley
(Koh Samui and the Monkey). The couple plans to open
the Grant Street space as a dual-concept Thai restaurant:
sit-down venue Citizen Thai and noodle house Monkey
Bar | Morgen Jacobson,
who owned Quince in Manhattan a few years ago, is now
the chef at Moose’s |
Caffe Malvina, a 35-year-old North Beach institution,
has closed.
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| SEATTLE
After leaving Wild Ginger and traveling
the world, Beard Foundation award-winner Jim Han Lock
has returned to open the 200-seat Jeem Asian Restaurant
in the Redmond suburbs |
Filling the space of the Wolfgang Puck Café that
closed six months ago is the Ipanema Brazilian Grill,
another Marco Cassas Beaux restaurant
| Ludgar Szmania has turned his Szmania restaurant
into Jager, a hip Euro-tavern
| Jim and Joe Buchanan have opened the upscale
southern restaurant Alexandria’s on 2nd in Belltown
| Jeff Fike has closed
his Pioneer Square bistro Bandol after less than a year.
Sister restaurant Cassis also closed.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Black Market Bistro in Maryland’s
Garrett Park is a new venture from pastry chefs Barbara
Black (Black’s Bar & Kitchen in Bethesda)
and Allison Krzyminski (Addie’s in Rockville)
| Jeff Ramsey, who created
the sushi menu at Signatures in Penn Quarter, is moving
to Café Atlántico to work with José
Andrés | Robert
Decoste is now executive chef at Olives restaurant at
16th and K streets, NW. He replaces Steve Mannino, who
returned to Las Vegas to take over the kitchen of the
newly renovated Olives in the Bellagio Hotel.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Boston
Beard Foundation award-winner Robert
Kinkead (Kinkead’s in Washington, D.C.) and his
brother David Kinkead (The Olive Group) are opening
Atelier 505 in the South End this fall. A two-sided
menu features David’s cuisine on one side and
Bob’s on the other. The condo development will
also include a second restaurant, overseen by pastry
chef Rick Katz (Legal Seafoods). Nicolas Valencia, a
steward since the early days at UpStairs on the Square
in Cambridge, Massachusetts, died in a car crash in
late July. Valencia was a native of Columbia, and a
beloved restaurant colleague; his co-workers described
him as “a deeply gentle man, an increasingly accomplished
hand at delicate stuffed pastas, an enthusiastic eater,
the possessor of countless phone cards and, strangely,
the wildest work pants on our staff.” In September,
UpStairs on the Square held a fundraiser to benefit
Valencia’s surviving family—he had five
children. Donations are still being accepted to the
Nicolas Valencia Fund. Send checks to UpStairs on the
Square, 91 Winthrop Street, Cambridge, MA 02138.
Charleston, SC
Zinc Bistro & Bar has opened
in Patriots Point, with a seafood menu by Tony Pope
(ex-Hank’s Seafood). Fredericksburg, Texas Kelly
Rogers (ex-La Casa Sena in Santa Fe) is now chef at
Bejas Grill & Cantina, a 100-seat restaurant in
Texas Hill Country.
Miami
Michael Bloise is the new executive
chef at Wish, replacing Michael Reidt, where his menu
draws on his mixed Vietnamese and Italian heritage
| Chris Tapper has moved from Citarella in New
York City to 1220 in the Tides Hotel, where his New
American menu includes such dishes as seared foie gras
with macaroons and candied kumquats, and shrimp with
pigeon pea ragoût.
Providence, RI
L’Epicureo is moving
from its Federal Hill location to the new Hotel Providence
downtown, letting chef/owners Tom and Rosann Buckner
expand.
^
Ride for the Brand
It ain’t no ordinary cookie
who’ll be wrestlin pots-‘n’-pans for
cowpokes on the long, lonesome trail West this month.
Nope, chef Tim Love of the Lonesome Dove Western Bistro
is at it again. Love will be riding his pootin’
pony from his home in Fort Worth, Texas to the Center
Club in Costa Mesa, California to cook on the American
Express® Celebrity Chef circuit (see page 50 for
details). Along the way, he’ll make chuckwagon
stops in three states, where he’ll join several
other Foundation friendly chefs to make food far, far
better than any buckeroo ever did eat. Proceeds from
the dinners (listed below) will go to Spoons Across
America, a program supported by the Beard Foundation
that provides culinary education to children. Avoid
the stampede—reserve early. Ride ’em cowboy!
Monday, October 11, 6:30 p.m.
Mark Miller
Coyote Cafe, Santa Fe
$125 | Reservations: 505.983.4792
Tuesday, October 12, 6:30 p.m.
Robert McGrath
Roaring Fork, Scottsdale, Arizona
$125 | Reservations: 480.947.0795
Wednesday, October 13, 6:30 p.m.
Michael and Wendy Jordan
Rosemary's Restaurant, Las Vegas
$125 | Reservations: 702.869.2251
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