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August 2004
| ATLANTA
“Where would we be without
salt?” James Beard once asked. Chef/owner Jason
Dauble answers that question with his new SALT in midtown.
Offerings include old-time favorites such as fried catfish
and meatloaf, as well as new twists such as fried chicken
burritos, blueberry cornbread muffins, and upside-down
apple pie | The Cabin Room off Buford Highway near Lenox
Road has reopened, featuring Southern cuisine by Sam
Buchanan, a shift from the wild game menu in place for
many years | In midtown, the former Ami has reopened
as Toast, a creative American restaurant | The Sun Dial
restaurant in the downtown hotel district has a new
executive chef, Borellos Trattatoris, who has big plans
for a rejuvenation of this established venue | Atlanta
bids adieu to the innovative cooking at Buckhead’s
Blaise, Virginia-Highlands’ Tiburon Grille, and
Piedmont Road’s short-lived health concept Balance.
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| CHICAGO
After nearly 25 years of pioneering
American cuisine at Printer’s Row, Michael Foley
has closed his restaurant to “redesign my life.”
Ditto for Jennifer Newbury, chef/owner of the acclaimed
Fortunato, who recently shuttered her eatery. And after
creating a Mediterranean-influenced splash at the hit
Pili Pili, chef François de Melogue has quit
to hike the Appalachian Trail in the eastern United
States. Former Printer’s Row chef Fred Ramos has
stepped into his clogs. But what made these chefs leave
at their peak? A recent Chicago Sun-Times article,
ventured this explanation: “(They’ve) chosen
to step out of the industry on their own terms, in order
to feed their souls by spending quality time with family
and friends. With nature. With themselves. And probably
for one of the first times in their adult lives, they’re
not consumed with feeding anyone else” | Grant
Achatz has amicably walked away from his stupendous
three-year run at Trio and is looking forward to opening
his own restaurant, to be called Alinea | Another Trio
alum, Sean McClain, has opened his second restaurant,
Green Zebra, just west of downtown. The restaurant is
named after a type of heirloom tomato. While McClain’s
other restaurant, Spring, emphasizes seafood, Green
Zebra features a vegetable-focused New American menu,
including avocado panna cotta with tomato gelée;
spicy scallion pancakes with kimchee; and curried eggplant
potstickers with pickled cucumber and ginger-carrot
emulsion. McClain will split his time between both restaurants,
with chef de cuisine Michael Bulkowski helping oversee
Green Zebra’s kitchen | After 10 years working
in financial services for a large corporation, Lisa
Santos decided to follow her passion for cooking. She
chucked her career, enrolled in the Cooking and Hospitality
Institute of Chicago, and is now chef/owner of Southport
Grocery & Café. Entrées include pan-seared
halibut with lemongrass-coconut broth on a bed of sugar-snap
peas.
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| HOUSTON
Joe Mannke has closed his Rotisserie
for Beef & Bird, a country inn, to write a cookbook.
Mannke continues to operate his more casual Bistro Le
Cep, which is nearby | Kathy and Patrick Marky have
sold their Empire Cafe in Montrose to 59 Diner Inc.
| A banquet hall is opening in the old La Tour d’Argent
site, to be called The Silver Tower | Hotel Derek has
closed its Maverick restaurant and leased the space
to the owners of Le Colonial in San Francisco | Felix
Aguirre resigned from Mark’s American Cuisine
to join The Four Seasons Hotel downtown.
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| LOS
ANGELES
Alain Giraud has been forced out
of Bastide, one of Los Angeles’s most expensive
and exclusive restaurants, by proprietor Joe Pytka.
He has been replaced by the much younger Ludovic Lefebvre
(ex-L’Orangerie). Giraud was employed at Bastide
for two years before the restaurant actually opened,
and has been its respected chef/director for its 18
months of operation | Venice to Venice. Antonio Mure
has returned to Los Angeles from Las Vegas, where he
was executive sous-chef for Luciano Pellegrini at Valentino
at The Venetian, to open the intimate Piccolo Cipriani
in Venice. The general manager/partner is Stefano De
Lorenzo (ex-il Moro). Look for some unusual pastas from
historic recipes, including potato and fig tortelli.
The restaurant replaces 5 Dudley (also the address)
| Montage Resort & Spa in Laguna Beach has purchased
the nearby Aliso Creek Inn on 80 scenic acres from the
Brown family. Chef Chris Grodach (ex-Mélisse)
has moved over from Montage Resort’s The Loft
restaurant to Aliso Creek’s Canyon Lodge American
Grill | Brothers Ivan and Marco Calderon (Taco Mesa)
have teamed with restaurateur Rene Fuentes to launch
the full-service Taco Rosa Restaurant & Bar in Newport
Beach. The restaurant’s churro dessert station
has a flowing chocolate fountain | After opening Zeke’s
Smokehouse in the suburbs 18 months ago, former fine-dining
chefs Leonard Schwartz (ex-Maple Drive) and Michael
Rosen (ex-Reign) have opened a second, larger barbecue
smokehouse in Hollywood in the West Hollywood Gateway
| Pastry chef Christophe Grilo now oversees the sweet
endings at the venerable L’Orangerie on La Cienega.
Grilo arrives from the Michelin three-star restaurant
Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France | SensAsian
Restaurant, fronted by celebrity chef Martin Yan, has
closed its Southern California restaurants in the Irvine/Tustin
Marketplace and in Costa Mesa after a year. This follows
the death of Hong Kong financier Arthur Ho, the financial
backer of the venture.
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| NEW ORLEANS
Anne Kearney Sand, chef/owner of
Peristyle, is removing her toque and apron for now.
Having had serious health problems, Kearney Sand, with
her husband, Tom, who runs the front of the house, have
sold the restaurant to Tom Wolfe (Wolfe’s). Both
Kearney Sand and Wolfe worked together at Mr. B’s
Bistro and then again at Emeril’s | To herald
the return of the Canal Street streetcar, the Palace
Café is opening its Streetcar Cocktail and Sidewalk
Café. Inspired by European counterparts, the
café is a gathering place for a cocktail or a
wedge of crabmeat cheesecake, perhaps followed by chef
Toby Dobson’s white chocolate bread pudding |
Indigo, the much talked-about restaurant on Bayou Road,
has returned after a two-month hiatus. Chef Jared Katz
and general manager Mark Petitfils have revamped the
menu and created a less formal atmosphere than before
| Gil Birman’s Hookah Café is the latest
restaurant to join the happening Marigny Triangle scene.
Located in the former Belle Forche space, Hookah Café
offers a menu of traditional Indian food, with the dishes
served as small plates.
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| NEW
YORK
With little fanfare and even less
warning, owner Jerry Kretchmer and his partners decided
to close JUdson Grill, where chef Bill Telepan built
a reputation for his seasonal American cooking with
a French accent. No plans for the space have been announced.
(Note: As a result Telepan’s Beard House dinner
on August 25 has been cancelled.) | Shalom. Solo, a
Kosher restaurant that has replaced Saffron in Midtown’s
Sony Building, aims to raise the bar on upscale Kosher
dining. It’s the latest ambitious project from
Syrian restaurateur Joey Allaham, who also owns the
popular Prime Grill. Chef Hok Chin has worked at La
Caravelle and, most recently, Della Femina. The pastry
chef is Morgan Larsson (Aquavit, The Russian Tea Room,
Windows on the World.) The menu is Modern American with
such dishes as duck prosciutto, tamari-and-miso-glazed
Chilean sea bass with truffle essence, and, for dessert,
apricot beignets with chocolate. Kosher Kiosk, a takeout
shop, is in the atrium lobby | Buon Italia. A New York
branch of the venerable wine bar Bottega Del Vino, in
Verona, Italy, is set to open this fall. Owner Severino
Barzan is teaming with Paolo Della Puppa, who also owns
Via Quadronno on the Upper East Side. The Midtown space
will feature Bar Quadronno in the front and a replica
of the famed Veronese wine bar as well | A few months
ago, upscale Indian eatery Amma lost its chefs. Now
Suvir Saran and Hemant Mathur have plans for their own
place, Devi, in Gramercy Park, is scheduled to open
at the end of this month | After a brief engagement,
Katy Sparks has left Compass on the Upper West Side.
She plans to pursue her own project, while the owners
of Compass will re-evaluate their concept | Ilo in the
Bryant Park Hotel has ended a three-year run. Chef Rick
Laakkonen promises to move the restaurant downtown.
In the meantime, David Rockwell will transform the hotel
restaurant by November into a Chinese-inspired eatery.
The chef will be Yuji Wakiya, who owns restaurants in
Japan. Investors include the actor Robert De Niro and
famed chef Nobu Matsuhisa | Flatiron’s Metronome
restaurant is now Strata, an upscale cafeteria serving
classic American dishes. The new chef is Michael Kaphan,
fresh from a stint at Zoë in Soho. He’s bringing
macaroni and cheese to a new level with black truffles
and porcini mushrooms, and has reconfigured Caesar salad
by wrapping the Romaine lettuce with pancetta | Medina
is a new Moroccan restaurant in Northern Chelsea. Co-chefs
Aziz Khrouch and Aziz Nouira, formerly of La Mamounia
in Marrakesh, have developed the menu of authentic dishes.
A tented garden and fabric-ensconced seating nooks add
to the exotic atmosphere | Trading cassoulet for croque
monsieur. Jean-Jacques Rachou has opened Brasserie Rachou
LCB in the space that used to house his venerable La
Côte Basque. The new place is a classic French
brasserie, with dark wood, old mirrors, tile, and a
laid-back feel | The multi-level Highline is the newest
eatery to open in the über-trendy Meatpacking District.
The three-story restaurant has a mesmerizing waterfall,
which doesn’t detract from chef Peter Pitakwong’s
terrific Thai-flavored cooking. Pitakwong is splitting
his time between Highline and Peep in SoHo | The San
Francisco-based Kimpton Group opened its first New York
boutique hotel last month: 70 Park Avenue. Kevin Reilly,
an alumnus of Zoë and China Grill, is running the
stoves at Silverleaf, the restaurant within the hotel
| Sir Terence Conran has hired the company of restaurateur
David Emil to overhaul and manage his striking Guastavino’s,
the restaurant under the 59th Street Bridge. The changes
should be in place by early next year. Emil is responsible
for Noche, Beacon, and the late Windows on the World
| Lost its spots. The Leopard, a Midtown eatery that
has been serving French-Continental fare for nearly
40 years has closed. Proprietor Madeline Lagreco, who
owned The Leopard for the past decade, lost her lease
| Mini-me. Jewel Bako in the East Village has a baby
sibling, located just around the corner. Owners Jack
and Grace Lamb have turned their Blue Goose café
(which they had opened last summer) into a tiny, less
pricey spinoff of the acclaimed Jewel Bako. Like the
original, Jewel Bako Makimono is tiny—it has less
than two dozen seats; the menu features small Japanese
plates and sushi | Co-owner Antonio Bellomo and partner/chef
Patrick Nuti have opened the more casual, moderately
priced Canapa on the Lower East Side. They also own
Petrosino in the same neighborhood | For a stellar takeout
sandwich, head straight to Carve Unique Sandwiches in
the Theater District. Chef/owner Eban Ross is a French
Culinary Institute alumnus who previously worked at
Citrus in Los Angeles and Nick & Toni’s in
East Hampton, Long Island. The name refers to carved-to-order
rotisserie meats that make up the bulk of the sandwich
menu; they are served on excellent breads. Lettuce wraps
are available for the carb-phobic | For another excellent
sandwich, or panini as it were, try the latest Bar Veloce
outpost, this one in Chelsea. The same modern wine decor
and lab coat uniforms are in place, but with more leg
room than in its East Village and Soho counterparts.
The all-Italian wine list will have you cheering, “Salute”
| Supersize, schmupersize. Kip’s Bay is home to
a prototype fast food burger concept called New York
Burger Co., which strives to make a delicious fast-food
burger from the best ingredients. Hence Coleman natural
beef (which gets Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s approval),
sturdy brioche buns, and a slew of house-made condiments.
Chicken and vegetable sandwiches are also available.
New York Burger Co. is the brainchild of partners Madeline
Poley, who owned the celebrated Soho Charcuterie in
the 1980s, and Spiros Zisimatos, who owns several other
fast dining options in Manhattan—Speedy’s,
Diner on the Square, and American Burger & Co.
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| PHILADELPHIA
Stephen Starr (Buddakan, Tangerine,
Continental) is opening a new restaurant, bar and lush
garden in the burgeoning Washington Square area. To
create a menu based on global street food, Starr is
partnering with Marcus Samuelsson (Aquavit, Riingo).
This is in addition to reopening Striped Bass on Restaurant
Row, Starr having rescued it from bankruptcy. Alfred
Portale (Gotham Bar and Grill) is consulting chef, Christopher
Lee (Oceana, Molyvos, Jean Georges) is chef de cuisine
| Bruce Cooper, chef/owner of Jakes in Manayunk, has
closed Novelty, his Center City restaurant | Stephen
Vassalluzzo’s Caffe Costa Diva is the latest Italian-oriented
BYOB in the city, joining Bronzino and Mellograno |
Thomas Woltjen (ex-Plough and the Stars) is now chef
at Port Richmond’s Mercer Café | Ron del
Mundo has disembarked from Moshulu, the restaurant in
a four-masted sailing ship anchored on the Delaware
River, to become executive chef of La Terrasse, now
owned by Marc Marlon (Pattaya Grill).
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| PITTSBURGH
Gregory Schrett and Jude Wargo
have taken over the kitchens of Penn Brewery, Pittsburgh’s
long-time premier microbrewery | Restaurateur Bikki
Kochar and chef Christian Frangiadis (who recently opened
Euro-Indian Bikki in Shadyside) have moved into the
former Southwest Bistro downtown and revived the bistro
concept of long-gone Simply French | Michael Johnson
has partnered with Watcharee Tongdee to open the sleek
Typhoon in Shadyside. The restaurant serves “New
Thai” cuisine, which translates to classic dishes
alongside innovative offerings such as linguini and
clams in basil oyster sauce | Ram Kondur has opened
Indica in Oakland, serving South Indian cuisine | Former
attorney Jamie Wallace, with two Ethiopian-born partners,
has opened Ethiopian restaurant Abay in East Liberty
| Paul Johnson (ex-Alla Famiglia) has opened Per Mie
Figlie in Squirrel Hill | Edgar Alvarez (ex-Mallorca)
has opened Taco Loco on South Side’s Carson Street.
His sister, Gladi Sanchez, cooks | James A. Blandi II,
the scion of the Blandi restaurant dynasty (Pittsburgh
Playhouse, Park Schenley, and LeMont), has opened the
casual Mediterranean eatery Siba in the far North Hills
| David “Chef Dato” Kadagishvili has joined
The Mansion at Walnut Hill in Connellsville.
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| SAN
DIEGO
Jean-Marie Josselin of Hawaii fame
(A Pacific Café on Kauai) has closed his 808
Restaurant in La Jolla and returned to Hawaii to be
with his children. Unfortunately, the restaurant never
caught on in San Diego | Serving San Diego magazine
has made its premier appearance with its May issue.
Catt Fields is the publisher and editor. The magazine
has a sister publication in Arizona.
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| SEATTLE
Tom Douglas (Dahlia Lounge, Etta’s
Seafood, Palace Kitchen) and his wife and business partner,
Jackie Cross, have opened Lola in the new Hotel Ändra
(formerly the Claremont). Executive chef Mark Van Mulken
and chef de cuisine Daniel Braun (Carmelita) fuse Greek
cuisine with Northwest products | Christine Keff has
closed Fandango, her Latin restaurant in Belltown, to
spend more time at Flying Fish | Hippie hangout Still
Life Cafe is now the 35th Street Bistro. Owner Bob Day,
consulting with Renee Erickson (Boat Street Café),
revamped the Fremont restaurant. It’s now offering
southern European cuisine by Rene Likitprachacomb (ex-Dahlia
Lounge) and Brandon Wicks (ex-Earth & Ocean).
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| TOKYO
Basically French, but ultimately
defying categorization, Bobo’s by Queen Alice
is the latest addition to chef Hiro Ishinabe’s
ever-expanding Queen Alice kingdom. The menu is “organic.”
Bobo’s is one of 11 restaurants in the newly opened
Atre building in Shinagawa | Koichi Chatani, 27, is
the chef/owner of Ristorante Tanicha, a 20-seat, Japanese-Italian
fusion restaurant in Nishi-Azabu. The menu includes
such items as saltimbocca of sea bass with sea urchin
sauce, and grappa parfait with biwa crêpes | Shigeji
Arayama, formerly of the Chinese restaurant Turandot,
has opened his own Chinese restaurant facing Shinjuku
Gyoen Park. The food ranges from orthodox, such as shark’s
fin, to un-, such as foie gras with hibiscus sauce |
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon has a new outpost,
a tiny sleek cafe on the second floor of the Nihonbashi
Takashimaya department store.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Robert Weland is now chef at Poste
at Hotel Monaco. He hails from Guastavino’s on
New York’s East Side | Janis McLean is preparing
the dishes at Red Dog Café in Silver Spring |
Joseph S. Canlas (ex-The Occidental Restaurant) is the
new executive chef at Oakville Grille and Wine Bar in
Bethesda, Maryland | Jeff Black (Addie’s, Black’s
Bar & Kitchen) plans to open Black Salt, a seafood
market and restaurant, in the Palisades area of MacArthur
Boulevard. Joseph Zumpano will run the kitchen.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Charleston, South Carolina
Ken Vedrinski (ex-Dining Room at
Woodland’s Resort and Inn) and Andy Selent (Trio
Club, Henry’s) have opened Sienna, a contemporary
Italian restaurant in downtown Daniel Island. Carolyn
Nugent (ex-NAHA) is pastry chef.
Las Vegas
Wolfgang Puck has opened the Wolfgang
Puck Bar & Grill at the MGM Grand. Sherry Yard created
the dessert menu. The restaurant is managed by The Wolfgang
Puck Fine Dining Group and is owned by MGM Grand.
Sonoma County, CA
The 9th Annual Grape to Glass Weekend
in Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. August 20-22,
2004. Canoe down the scenic Russian River, bike ride
through the rolling vineyards, taste wine with the winemakers
and growers as you learn about life in the Russian River
area. Delight in delicious brunches and a down-home
barbecue featuring some of the area's best chefs. Visit
www.rrvw.org or call 707-521-2535 for ticket information
and additional details. | Sonoma County’s culinary experts will share their favorite apple recipes at the Chef’s Demonstration tent at the Gravenstein Apple Fair on Saturday, August 14 and Sunday, August 15 at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol. See demonstrations by Carol Kozlowksi of Kozlowski Farms; Michele Anna Jordan - Chef, Cookbook Author and Food Writer; John Toulze- Executive Chef of the girl & the fig; and Chris Greenwald of Iron Horse Vineyards. For more information please call the Farm Trails Office at (800) 207-9464 or visit www.farmtrails.org.
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