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June 2004
| ATLANTA
Kevin Rathbun (Nava) will open
his long-awaited restaurant, Rathbun’s, in The
Stove Works building in Inman Park. Partners include
general manager Cliff Bramble and pastry chef Kirk Parks,
both of whom worked with Rathbun at Nava. The 110-seat
eatery will serve dinner only, from a “seasonal
and globally driven” menu
| Uno, dos…The Martinez family
will open Zocalo Two on the square in Decatur. The new
location will also make guacamole tableside
| Kelly Clark (Sydney’s Steakhouse) has
taken over the former Hal’s Roswell restaurant
on Old Dogwood Road with plans to turn it into second
Sydney’s. Executive chef is Alvin Reed (Kudzu
Café, Abbey) | In
a renovated Main Street storefront in downtown College
Park, not far from the famous Oscar’s, Kosmos
has arrived. With a tin ceiling and bold art, Kosmos
offers a chic setting for former private chef Connie
Carriveau’s worldly modern bistro menu
| Restaurant Eugene has opened in the Aramore
building in south Buckhead with executive pastry chef
Michael Rudiger (Bones, Bacchanalia, Mumbo Jumbo). Owners
Linton and Gina Hopkins (he is chef de cuisine) preside
over the rest of the kitchen |
Café Nice in Buckhead has closed, as has
Gringo’s in Inman Park.
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| LOS
ANGELES
Bagel with a schmear of glitz.
After 55 years on Fairfax Avenue, quintessential Jewish
deli Canter’s Restaurant has opened a branch in
Treasure Island, Las Vegas | Joachim
Splichal’s Patina Group has opened Tortilla Jo’s
(in the former Y Arriba, Y Arriba space) at downtown
Disney in Anaheim. Torr Kelso (formerly Mark Miller’s
Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe) is executive chef. The menu
was created by Patina Group co-founder Octavio Becerra
| The founders of Tengu in Westwood and Paladar
in Hollywood have opened Lincoln in Santa Monica, an
upscale American steakhouse that also serves a little
surf. James Grey (ex-Union) oversees the grill
| Raphael Solorzano, opening chef for Andre Guerrero’s
Senor Fred’s, has gone out on his own with Lou
e Luey’s Baja Seafood Grill on the boardwalk in
the Redondo Beach Marina. The specialty of the casa
is fresh seafood from Mexico |
Nearby on Pacific Coast Highway, Ken Kittivech,
one of the founders of the Chan Dara Thai restaurants,
has launched Chaba Thai Bay Grill. Chef Art Karnsomprot
prepares Thai dishes with a healthy seafood slant
| Uma Singh (ex-Nizam) has her first solo venture
with Tamarin Restaurant and Tea Lounge in Beverly Hills.
The menu reflects her interpretation of light Indian
fare | Roy’s in Newport
Beach has added a sushi bar under Hawaiian-born sushi
chef Lorin Watada | Hans
and Patti Rockenwagner (Rockenwagner Restaurant &
Brasserie) have sold their casual Marina del Rey Ballona
Fish Market restaurant to Sushi Land Restaurant Group,
operators of a pair of sushi restaurants in Long Beach
and Cypress. Few significant changes are anticipated,
and the staff will remain intact. Wolfgang Gussmack
moves over to Rockenwagner as chef de cuisine
| Berty Siegels seemed to disappear with the
closing of his namesake Brentwood restaurant a few years
ago. Now Siegels has reemerged in the kitchen of the
classic Pacific Dining Car, opened in 1921, on the fringe
of downtown | Susan Feniger
and Mary Sue Milliken’s Border Grill in Pasadena
has closed after two years. The original Border Grill
continues in Santa Monica, as well as the branch in
Las Vegas.
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| NEW
ORLEANS
Mimi goes to Madrid. Mimi’s
in the Marigny has opened a late-night tapas bar. Running
the kitchen is Mike Hampton (ex-RioMar). Although some
of the wines are from Spain, there is also a selection
from Argentina and Chile | New
on the restaurant scene is the long-awaited La Petite
Grocery. The brainchild of local caterer Joel Dondis
and billed as a French bistro, this 90-seat restaurant
exudes turn-of-the-century New Orleans charm.
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| NEW
YORK
Alain Ducasse remix. His (relatively)
midpriced eatery, Mix in New York, has a new formula
and a new mix master. Chef Damon Gordon has replaced
Doug Psaltis. Gordon cooked at Ducasse’s Spoon
in London and Blue Door in Miami. Gone are the creatively
constructed menu and the petri-dish presentations.
| Time to get that car. A behemoth 65,000-square-foot
Fairway gourmet market is expected to open early next
year in Paramus—the company’s first Jersey
location | Much to our chagrin,
co-chefs Suvir Saran and Hemant Mathur have left Amma.
The team behind the Indian-inspired eatery in Midtown
have parted ways with the owner and are looking for
new digs to call their own. Stay tuned
| Jeffrey Chodorow—currently embroiled
in a lawsuit over Rocco’s on 22nd—adds a
new restaurant project to his already full plate. He
has paired with Matthew Kenney, the talented culinary
star behind former hot spots Matthew’s, Commune,
and Commissary, who’s been MIA of late. The two
plan to take over the shuttered Verbena space in Gramercy
Park. The restaurant, tentatively called Pure Food and
Wine, will focus on raw vegan cuisine
| Chodorow isn’t the only restaurateur
jumping on the vegetarian bandwagon. Chef Scott Barton
galloped around the culinary globe at Voyage. His new
eatery in the East Village, Counter, is a vegetarian
wine bar | Peasant digs
deeper. Owner and chef Frank DeCarlo has added a subterranean
bar below his much-loved Peasant. Cantina 194 (the street
address) is DeCarlo’s hand-constructed labor of
love, swathed in stone and brick. The communal tables
provide a perfect vantage point to meet like-minded
foodies, nibble on a selection of cheeses and salumi,
and sip great wines | 66
has a new chef. Josh Eden, who traveled the world working
for Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has left to pursue his
own restaurant project. His replacement is Alan Yu,
a transplant from Washington, D.C.’s Citronelle
| First press. Joey Fortunato has opened Extra
Virgin, together with partner Michele Gaton. Located
in Greenwich Village, this Mediterranean trattoria features
a variety of luscious olive oils, naturally
| New name, but the fish remains the same. At
least that’s the party line for Citarella owner
Joe Gurrera. He recently changed the name of Citarella
The Restaurant to Josephs | McCormick
& Schmick’s opened its first outpost in the
Big Apple. The seafood-restaurant chain based in Portland,
Oregon, is taking over the former Angelo & Maxie’s
steakhouse in Midtown | The
rather dramatically decorated Vela is a fusion of Japanese
and Brazilian cuisines in Chelsea. Chefs Yasuhiro Inoue
of Matsuri and Joojoo Kim of SushiSamba have lots of
creative freedom when it comes to the food, although
traditional sushi is available as well. Beware the witching
hour: the tables, set on a hydraulic mechanism, sink
into the floor, turning Vela into a lounge
| Coming to a corner near you: Daisy May’s
USA BBQ chili carts. Chef/owner Adam Perry Lang turns
out authentic, stick-to-your-ribs, well…ribs and
other fine barbecue fare at his Daisy May take-out shop.
Now he’s sending out a fleet of chili carts to
serve his signature “bowl of red” around
town | Danny Meyer and his
Union Square Hospitality Group of restaurants were recently
awarded a contract to operate a high-end food kiosk
in Madison Square Park. Meyer plans to offer upscale
burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes, and alcohol from a 1950s-themed
burger shack. His gourmet hot dog cart, which operated
from that park for the past three summers, has been
permanently shuttered | Beard
would have loved them. Beard Papa’s Sweets Café
is a quirky Osaka-based chain specializing in just one
thing: cream puffs! The large, chewy, still-warm cream
puffs are filled with a luscious Madagascar vanilla
custard. The company’s first U.S. store is located
on the Upper West Side | Nearby
Il Fiore has been transformed into Zeytin Turkish Restaurant
& Bar. Zeytin, meaning “olive”, is the
vision of Greek chef/owner Kemal Binici, who satisfies
with classic meze and kebabs |
Will oysters Rockefeller be on the menu? One
of the most intriguing newcomers to the local dining
scene is Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Westchester, a
collaboration between Blue Hill co-chefs Dan Barber
and Michael Anthony and Barber’s brother and sister-in-law,
David and Laureen Barber. The project comprises an elegant
restaurant, a private dining room, a café, and
a catering facility. In the works is also a year-round
greenhouse and garden, soon to provide many of the menu
components. The restaurant is part of a larger complex—the
Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture—funded
by David Rockefeller. That’s our kind of destination
restaurant.
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| PARIS
Another three-Michelin-star chef
comes to Paris. Michel Troisgros, whose name is almost
synonymous with Roanne, opened La Table du Lancaster
in the Hotel Lancaster, just steps off the Champs-Elysées.
The room is elegant, the crowd international, and the
food very lively. Frogs’ legs are topped with
tamarind, rouget is served with grapefruit and mint,
pristine scallop carpaccio is laced with wasabi, wakame,
and a dab of sea urchin roe, shrimp are paired with
kumquats, gnocchi with Granny Smith apples, and sweetbreads
with anchovies. Troisgros calls it cuisine acidulée,
which loosely translates to acidified food. Others just
call it delicious | Yves
Camdeborde, the first haute-cuisine runaway to open
a bistro, sold La Régalade to pursue other projects.
For those who miss La Régalade, two of Camdeborde’s
chefs have opened their own places: L’Ami Jean,
on rue Malar, close to the Eiffel Tower; and L’Ourcine,
in the not-very-touristique 13th arrondissement
| The city’s propensity for specialization
has led to two new single-subject restaurants. Pomze,
not far from the big department stores, is dedicated
to the apple, while in the Marché Saint-Honoré,
tomatoes take center stage at Tomate.
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| PITTSBURGH
Where’s the Square? After
15 years, restaurateur Jamie Petrolias moved his Market
Square restaurant, Jamie’s on the Square, to suburban
Dormont | Executive chef
Jeannine Manint left Tonic Bar & Grill to open a
coffee shop in almost-hip Lawrenceville. Single-named
chefs Jarrod and Andy stay on in Tonic’s kitchen
| Moscow-born Arthur Alkasyan has opened Gambrinus,
an authentic Russian restaurant in Uptown. Also on the
growing ethnic restaurant scene is Abay, serving Ethiopian
dishes | Food from A to
Zao. Portuguese native Toni Pais finally opened Café
Zao in the downtown cultural district, with Carl Lashley
as executive chef and Shane McCombs (ex-Original Fish
Market) as chef de cuisine. The Euro-Portuguese menu
also features dishes from Goa, Macao, Mozambique, and
Timor | Jamie Achmoody,
formerly executive chef at Soba in Shadyside, is moving
west | Chef/owner Michael
Crawford is closing Southwest Bistro downtown
| Sad parting. Executive chef Nicholas J. Colletti,
employed for 48 years by The Duquesne Club, died in
March, just one day shy of his 85th birthday. Trained
under Abel Bomberault (who, in turn, trained under Auguste
Escoffier), Colletti was one of the most colorful and
beloved members of the Pittsburgh dining community.
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| SAN
DIEGO
Cafe Cerise is open on Sixth Avenue
in the Gaslamp District. The chef/owner is Jason Seibert,
formerly of San Francisco’s China Moon and New
York City’s Park Avenue Cafe
| Tommy DiMella is the new executive chef at
Dobson’s downtown. He comes to the restaurant
from Pamplemousse in Del Mar |
Pearl is the sister restaurant of downtown’s
Emerald Seafood. Located in Rancho Bernardo, the restaurant
specializes in dim sum | Sharmlyn
and Garo Minassian of Scalini in Del Mar have opened
Grappa in San Marcos | Brian
Johnston (ex-Star of the Sea, Champagne Bakery) has
landed at the new Omni Hotel. The hotel is part of the
new Petco Park complex downtown, home to the San Diego
Padres | Farewell. Harold
Meyberg, founder and director of the San Diego Culinary
Institute, died March 21 of lung cancer. Born in South
Africa, Meyberg founded landmark restaurant Meybergs
in Santa Clara County in the sixties, then later opened
the cooking school. His son, David, will run the school.
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| SEATTLE
Mike Davis (Salish Lodge and Spa)
has opened 26 brix in one of the fastest-growing wine
regions in the country, the Walla Walla valley. The
name comes from the unit used to measure the sugar content
of grapes | Chef/owner Laurent
Gabrel has chosen Madison Valley district for Voila!,
a French bistro in the space that was previously Gitano,
Jimmy’s Table, and Gypsy. He sold Figaro Bistro
in Queen Anne | Dual duties
are in store for executive chef Tom Black (Barking Frog
at Willows Lodge in Woodinville) as he now also serves
as executive chef of the newly opened luxury property
Alderbrook, on the Hood Canal (see page 20 for Black’s
June dinner at the Beard House)
| Tova Cubert sold the famed Madrona neighborhood
restaurant Supreme to her former manager Gordon Kushnick
(Wasabi Bistro, Hiram’s at the Locks). It has
the same friendly staff but a new menu that continues
to focus on sustainable organic meat and produce
| Kevin Rohr has been named chef of Chandler’s
Crabhouse. He previously worked as executive chef of
McCormick & Schmick’s Harborside Restaurant
and Six Seven at The Edgewater
| Tim Ferguson began as a pantry cook at Tulio
after reading a restaurant review in 1993. He has just
been promoted to executive chef and plans to add more
signature Italian dishes to the already very Italian
menu.
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| TORONTO
Marc Thuet has departed downtown
supper club The Fifth. Fellow Frenchman J.P. Challet
(Bouchon) replaces him as executive chef on a six-month
contract. Thuet landed at the Rosewater Supper Club,
replacing Richard Andido, who moved to Flow in Yorkville,
the new project by Centro owner Tony Longo that replaces
the touristy Movenpick | Bloom
has sprung up in Bloor West Village. Owner Bill Luele
has moved talented Sam Gassira over from sister restaurant
Focaccia downtown. Focaccia's new chef is Pedro Quintanilla
(ex-Xango, Latitude) | Twenty-five
may seem young for a facelift, but not if you're a restaurant.
Provence in Cabbagetown has gone downscale as bistro
Provence Délices | Jean-Jacques
Texier (ex-Sassafraz) has gone out on his own with Batifole
in Riverdale | Fran's, the
24-hour diner, is opening soon in the new Pantages Hotel
on Victoria St.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Palette at The Madison Hotel has
a new chef in James Clark, from Vidalia’s in Myrtle
Beach, South Carolina. The menu will continue to feature
21st-century American cuisine |
Andrea Pace (ex-Il Cigno) is the chef at Fiore
Di Luna, a new Northern Italian restaurant in Great
Falls where Le Relais used to be
| Santi Zabaleta is the new executive chef at
Taberna del Alabardero downtown
| Bryan Bernstein has been named corporate chef
at Saval Foods | Eric Ziebold,
former chef de cuisine at The French Laundry, was named
executive chef of the yet-to-be-named restaurant to
open at the new Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Austin, TX
Shawn Cirkiel has closed his Jean Luc’s
Bistro on Colorado Street, but plans to continue catering.
Las
Vegas
Get guidance on your ganache and tutoring for your
torte at the World Pastry Forum Recreational Program!
The 2004 World Pastry Forum Recreational Program will
be held in Las Vegas on July 5 and 6, 2004. It is a
series of six, two-hour classes taught by successful
luminaries of the pastry world, including Biagio Settepani,
of Bruno Bakery and Pasticceria Bruno in New York City
and Jenifer Witte, Executive Pastry Chef at the AAA
Five Diamond Award-winning Renoir, at the Mirage Hotel,
Las Vegas. Participants will receive tickets to the
2004 Inniskillin Icewine World Pastry Team Championship
on July 7 and 8. For more information and enrollment
go to www.worldpastryforum.com.
San Francisco
Exeunt. A number of San Francisco chefs have packed
up their knives and left their restaurants. Dennis Leary
of Rubicon has decided to pursue other projects and
is being replaced by Stuart Brioza, who’s coming
from Tapawingo in Michigan. Other defectors include
Richard Reddington, who is moving on from L’Auberge
du Soleil in the Napa Valley, and Jean Alberti, who
has departed Kokkari Estiatorio.
Whistler, BC
Araxi has a new executive chef in James Walt,
who returns from sister restaurant Blue Water Café,
and a new restaurant director in Martin Repicky, who
replaces Andre Thomas.
TV Land
For all those cooking shows that don’t
make it onto Food Network, there’s the new Indie
Food Channel, really just 60 to 90 minutes of diverse
programming.
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