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April 2004
| BOSTON
Dillon’s has replaced the
Barcode on Boylston Street in the Back Bay. Billed as
a “swanky new gin mill,” Dillon’s
has a Roaring ’20s theme but an up-to-date menu.
The concept is a departure for the Glynn Hospitality
Group, whose other properties include Irish pubs Clery’s,
Coogan’s, and the Black Rose
| Samir Majmudar (Tanjore, Bhindi Bazaar) has
transformed his Bombay Bistro in Coolidge Corner into
Rani, serving specialties from the Indian city of Hyderabad
| Po Chiu, owner of Epiphany, recently opened
Lot 401 in Providence. Under chef Rachel Klein-Gates,
Lot 401 serves American food with Asian accents. Chiu’s
business partner in the venture is Henry Mu
| Sanctuary, a new tapas bar and restaurant on
State Street, has chef Stephen Lancaster composing a
menu with flavors from Vietnam, India, Mexico, and Italy.
Parent company J.D. Ventures also owns Aqua and the
Black Rhino | Ole Mexican
Grill in Arlington has opened a take-out branch named
Andale on Summer Street in the Financial District
| Troquet on Boylston Street recently expanded,
moving the dining upstairs and turning its first floor
into a lounge. Owners Chris and Diane Campbell also
have added the husband-and-wife team of chef Scott Hebert
and pastry chef Natalia Andalo as partners
| Skipjack’s Back Bay location has reopened.
Supervising the new sushi bar is sushi chef Tsui “Otto”
Hiu Tou (ex-Oiishi, Ginza) |
L, the new restaurant on the first floor of Louis Boston,
has opened under chef Pino Maffeo (ex-AZ in Manhattan)
with a menu influenced by Southeast Asia and Japan.
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| LONDON
This spring, the owners of Club
Gascon and Cellar Gascon are opening Le Circle at 1
Wilbraham Place in Chelsea. Expect French with a modern
twist | Giorgio Locatelli’s
new classic Italian restaurant, Refettorio, is in the
Crown Plaza Hotel on New Bridge Street. Chef Pasquale
Amica has worked at Locanda Locatelli for the past six
months and before that was at Cecconi’s
| This spring, the owners of Zuma are opening
Roka, a new Japanese grill on Charlotte Street
| The Greenhouse is set to reopen after refurbishment
by its new owner, Marlon Abela
| Marcus Wareing’s Fleur and the Savoy
Hotel’s River Restaurant have closed. The hotel
now has Wareing’s Savoy Grill and the casual Banquette
| Nathalie, on the former site of The House in
Chelsea, is named after owner Eric Chatroux’s
daughter. Chatroux is ex-manager of La Tante Claire.
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| LOS
ANGELES
Chefs redux. Josiah Citrin (Mélisse)
and Raphael Lunetta (JiRaffe) are back in business together
with the casual Lemon Moon Cafe serving breakfast and
lunch only in West Los Angeles on the ground floor of
Westside Media Center. The two chefs previously owned
JiRaffe together | Hush
has finally debuted in Laguna Beach on the ocean-view
site that was formerly Mark’s. Jonathan Pfueger
(ex-Montage Resort & Spa) has created a menu of
seasonal, contemporary American cuisine with touches
from Asia and the Mediterranean. Proprietor Chuck Rock
is a serious wine collector | In
nearby Monarch Beach, Crab Cove Euro-Asian Cuisine has
already become the darling of local hotel concierges.
Paul Van Zeumeren (ex-Rancho Bernardo Inn) runs the
kitchen. Popular dishes include whole Dungeness crab
roasted in special seasonings and garlic noodles with
spicy sauce | Z Mario California
is the new name for the former Sapori Trattoria in Tustin.
After 13 years, proprietor Adriano Maniaci sold his
establishment to Mario Bustani
| Stefan Richter (ex-Villagio Inn & Spa in
Napa) is at the culinary helm of Enoteca Drago Ristorante,
Wine Bar & Pizzeria in Beverly Hills
| Knoll’s Black Forest Inn became the bastion
of fine German cuisine in Los Angeles with the move
in 1982 to its current Santa Monica address, but actually
was started by Norbert Knoll and his wife Hildergard
in 1960 nearby as a modest coffee shop. Chef Knoll always
kept pace with contemporary German dishes. The Knoll’s
son, Ronald, developed an incredible cellar of fine
German wines that was reported to be the deepest collection
in the West. The Knolls have sold the property for development
and have retired | Former
white-hot Hollywood hot spot Les Deux Cafés has
closed after five years |
The revered Orange County chef and restaurateur Hans
Prager has died at age 74. Prager created the elegant
destination restaurant The Ritz Restaurant & Garden
in 1977. He sold The Ritz two years ago, but longtime
executive chef Guadalupe Camarena remains. Prager also
founded The Ritz Brothers, an exclusive club that raised
tens of thousands of dollars a year for community nonprofit
groups.
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| NEW
ORLEANS
Korean restaurant Ghengis Khan
has closed. Owner Harry Lee, a former violinist with
the New Orleans Symphony, provided opera and string
quartets to accompany his Asian cuisine. Many musicians
used the restaurant to showcase their talents
| Chef Duke LoCicero of Café Giovanni,
where opera singers abound on Saturday nights, has left
the partnership in Mamma Cucina in Metairie
| Bingo Starr, who rose to fame as executive
chef at Cuvée and then teamed with René
Bajeux to open La Côte Brasserie, has moved on.
He’s now at the eclectic Café Marigny,
where there are fewer tables and a more casual atmosphere.
Replacing him at La Côte Brasserie is Chuck Subra,
Jr., who once worked at the Windsor Court as Bajeux’s
executive sous-chef. (Bajeux and Subra will be cooking
at the Beard House this month; see page 17)
| Pioneer vegetarian restaurant Old Dog, New
Tricks has closed.
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| NEW
YORK
Broken hearts. After 43 years and
a makeover, a final farewell. For decades André
and Simone Soltner made Lutèce synonymous with
refined French dining and unpretentious charm in New
York. In 1994, they sold the place to Ark restaurants,
which modernized the interior and the menu. Although
chefs Eberhard Müller and David Féau carried
on admirably, Lutèce never quite recovered from
the loss of Soltner. The landmark restaurant served
its last meals on Valentine’s Day
| Lutèce was a youngster compared with
Gage & Tollner, a 125-year-old institution in Brooklyn,
which extinguished its gaslit lamps for the last time
on Valentine’s Day. Charles M. Gage and Eugene
Tollner opened the restaurant in 1879, and it was soon
a social center for entertainers, leaders of industry,
and members of high society. The restaurant revived
during the 1980s under the wonderful Edna Lewis, who
introduced Southern specialties, including a signature
she-crab soup. But despite its 19th-century charm, business
had been steadily declining | Some
good news on the legendary New York restaurants front:
La Grenouille is undergoing renovations, and is expected
to conclude this month, and owner Charles Masson says
he is committed to continuing La Grenouille’s
grand tradition | Terrence
Brennan has closed his Seafood and Chop House. He’s
planning to relocate, possibly to another Midtown location.
Carnivores, stay tuned | Alternately,
meatophiles can head downtown, to the newly opened Churrascaria
Plataforma Tribeca. The original Brazilian barbecue
restaurant is in the Theater District. Both specialize
in glutton-sized portions of succulent, char-grilled
skewered meats of every variety
| AZ, the respected Flatiron Asian eatery, has
closed. With both Patricia Yeo and Pino Maffeo gone,
owner Jimmy Haber plans to rethink the concept. See
Boston Dateline for Maffeo’s current whereabouts
| Richard Farnabe, who briefly turned out outstanding
dishes at Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club and later at
Aïgo, both on the Upper East Side, has found a
new home. He is the corporate chef for the Milos restaurant
group in New York and Montreal. But don’t look
for him in either of those cities. He’s probably
busy finalizing the menu at the Athens location, opening
just in time for this summer’s Olympic Games
| Jean-Luc, an eclectic bistro on the Upper West
Side named after its owner, has a new chef. Eric Le
Dily has been replaced by Julio Quisbert, who was promoted
from within | Daniel Orr
has left Guastavino’s, and he’s left New
York City, too. Given this past winter’s frigid
temperatures, we can’t begrudge him his new consulting
job for Cuisinart Resort and Spa in Anguilla in the
Caribbean. Back in Gotham, the new toque at Guastavino’s
is former chef de cuisine Robert Weland. There’s
a new pastry chef, too, Felencia Darius, formerly of
Brasserie 360 | Kalustyan’s,
at the center of the spice universe in Manhattan’s
Curry Hill, has opened the ambitious Masala Café
nearby. Chef Geetika Khanna (formerly of Raga) is in
the enviable position of relying on the spice shop as
her personal pantry. Consider ordering grilled prawns
and corn chowder drizzled with green chile oil, mint
chutney–crusted rare salmon, and chai crème
brûlée. Owners Sayedul Alam and Aziz Osmani
have also just opened a Brooklyn Heights branch of their
Curry Leaf restaurant | British
invasion. The Spotted Pig, a cheeky new gastro-pub in
western West Village, is the concept of former music
exec Ken Friedman, with input from culinary tastemaker
Mario Batali. Friedman hired English expat chef April
Bloomfield, fresh from London’s River Café,
to cook Italian-inflected dishes such as bresaola with
raw artichokes and arugula, and panzotti with roasted
pumpkin, goat cheese, and marjoram, complemented by
an extensive wine list. And, of course, the obligatory
Irish stout | Until Jacques
Torres’s new chocolate factory and shop in western
SoHo opens, we’ll continue to get our fix at his
shop in Dumbo, Brooklyn | Music
to your children’s ears. Jazz Standard, the music
lounge below Blue Smoke, is offering jazz brunches for
children. Hearty eats come from the restaurant, music
from the Jazz Standard Youth Orchestra. Donations help
public school jazz programs | New
York abounds in restaurants serving food from Latin
America, Europe, and Asia, but the cuisines of Africa
are largely a mystery here. Get a delicious West African
culinary education at Yolélé, a new Senegalese
bistro in Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood.
The cooking of chef/owner Pierre Tham will transport
you with exotica like mafe, the nation’s
signature peanut stew; lamb didi haoussa, skewered,
peanut-marinated lamb with spicy tomato purée;
and whole roasted sea bass with zesty onion relish
| Their loss, our gain. Ian Chalermkittichai
has left the Regent Hotel in Bangkok to set up in New
York; he is taking over the former Thom space in Soho’s
60 Thompson Hotel and plans to open Kittichai, designed
by David Rockwell, in late spring. Chalermkittichai
has cooked all over the world, which is apparent in
his Thai fusion dishes. With his televised cooking show,
he is a well-known personality in his native country
| The Big Easy comes to the Big Apple in the
form of Jacques-Imo’s NYC, a replica—swamp
mural and all—of the beloved, eccentric N’awlins
original. Proprietor Jacques Leonardi will commute between
the two, but the man behind the Columbus and 77th Street
stove will be Steven Manning (ex-Bayou). Now if only
the Upper West Side looked like the French Quarter…
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| PARIS
Proving that great minds think
alike, a pair of Michelin-three-star chefs have opened
casual restaurants just minutes from Nôtre Dame.
Within weeks of each other, Guy Savoy opened Atelier
Maître Albert on the Left Bank and Antoine Westermann
brought his famed Alsatian cuisine to Mon Vieil Ami
on Ile Saint-Louis | Delicabar,
“Le Snack Chic,” is “le brainchild”
of Hélène Samuel, who worked with Alain
Ducasse to create Spoon, and Sebastien Gaudard, former
pastry chef of Fauchon. Located above La Grande Epicerie
in the 7th arrondissement, the full menu is served at
all times, so you can have dessert for breakfast, or
breakfast for dinner: no one will make you finish your
spinach before you can have your mille-feuille au
chocolat | Philippe
Starck’s latest Paris creation is his most luxurious
and most imaginative: Maison Baccarat, the legendary
crystal house. Taking up two floors of the former Noailles
mansion in the 16th arrondissement, there’s a
boutique, museum, and restaurant, Le CristalRoom, where
Thierry Burlot’s dishes are served beneath a suite
of chandeliers | Belgian
chocolatier Pierre Marcolini has opened a sleek shop
on rue de Seine, close to Gérard Mulot’s
beloved pâtisserie. Makes for sweet strolling.
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| PITTSBURGH
The Big Burrito Restaurant Group
has hired away Greg Alauzen from the Steelhead Grill,
in the Marriott City Center hotel, to become executive
chef of an as-yet-unnamed new restaurant. Derek Stevens
(ex-The Duquesne Club, Casbah) is sous-chef. The 150-seat
modern American restaurant will open in the former Strip
District space of Valhalla. Executive chef Donato Coluccio
(Ramada Plaza Suites) replaces Alauzen at the Steelhead
Grill | Meanwhile, Daniel
Mosedale resigned as executive chef of The Original
Fish Market in the Westin Convention Center Hotel to
join Big Burrito | Beer
emporium The Sharp Edge has hired executive chef Mindy
Heisler (ex-Valhalla) to concoct such beer-based recipes
as shepherd’s pie laced with Guinness, and beef
stewed in dark German Doppel Bock
| Antonio Pereira expanded his Mallorca empire
by replicating that Spanish concept in Philadelphia,
Cleveland, and Cincinnati. Now he’s sold the Ohio
shops and bought Shootz Café and Billiards, an
up-market pool hall across the street from his original
restaurant. Directly next door to Mallorca, he’s
also developing Ibiza, a wine bar, with an international
tapas menu | Restaurateur
Toni Pais (Baum Vivant, Café Zinho) has opened
Café Zao, a white-tablecloth brasserie in downtown’s
Cultural District. Chef Carl Lashley is corporate chef
| Mark Broadhurst, son of Eat ’n Park CEO
James Broadhurst, has returned to Pittsburgh as the
company’s first director of product development.
He’s developing a casual restaurant in the Cultural
District | Executive chef
Gloria Fortunato has resigned from Café Allegro
on the South Side. Corporate chef Joe Nolan returns
to steer the kitchen day to day.
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| SAN
DIEGO
The new chef at Nectar in the Gaslamp
Quarter is Matthew Herter, formerly of the Gaslamp Hilton
| The new chef at Dakota,
also in the Gaslamp, is Aaron O’Mara, formerly
of the Paradise Point Resort in San Diego
| Stephane Voitzwinkler is now behind the stoves
at downtown’s landmark Bertrand at Mr. A’s.
He came up the hill from Sally’s, the signature
restaurant at the Grand Hyatt |
Fabrice Poigin, formerly of Bertrand at Mr. A’s,
came down the hill to fetch a pail of water, no, er,
to land at Chive in the Gaslamp and the Kensington Grill.
He is executive chef of both spots
| Greg Ische is the new executive chef of the
Hotel Del Coronado. He comes to San Diego from the Laguna
Cliffs Marriott Resort and Spa up the coast in Orange
County.
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| SAN
FRANCISCO
Shelley Lindgren and chef Christophe
Hille are opening A16 on Chestnut Street, concentrating
on the cuisine of Campania and its capital, Naples
| Mark Mitcheltree and chef Michael Selvera
(ex-Yabbies Coastal Kitchen) plan to open Cafe Maritime
on Lombard Street, modeled on a New England seafood
shack, but with more panache |
Kitty and Luke Sung (Isa) will open Lux around
the corner on Chestnut Street in the space of the now-closed
China Village Seafood & Vegetarian Restaurant
| Gerald Hirigoyen has been concentrating on
Piperade but now turns his attention to Bocadillos,
which he will open on Montgomery Street next to the
Bubble Lounge. Nothing on the the sandwich menu will
be priced over $12 | Robert
Curry, chef at Domaine Chandon in Yountville from 1997
to 2002, wanted to return to Wine Country. For the last
few years, he was working in Orlando for the Disney
organization. Now he’s the executive chef of the
CIA’s Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant in St.
Helena. He replaces Pilar Sanchez, who left last year
to open her own restaurant in Napa
| Meanwhile, Ron Boyd is the new chef at Domaine
Chandon. He replaces chef Eric Torralba, who left before
the holidays to pursue his own project in St. Helena
| In Berkeley, Christopher
Lee has bought the former Ginger Island. For the last
nine years, Lee has been co-chef of Chez Panisse. The
restaurant is to be named Eccolo (“here it is”
in Italian) | Mark Purdy
has left Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg
| Ben deVries has left Andalu in the Mission
| Gregory Willis is gone from 231 Ellsworth in
San Mateo | After years
of struggle, mc2 has closed on Pacific Avenue. Chef
Todd Davies, who came to the restaurant from Lark Creek
Inn, says the cause was “roller-coaster business.”
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| SEATTLE
Crave, brainchild of chef/owner
Robin Levinthal (Deux Tamales, Cyclops), has opened
on lower Capitol Hill. It claims to be the only place
in town that still serves blintzes
| Marco Casas Beaux (Buenos Aires Grill, Gitano)
and Angel Tejedor have opened Madrid 522, a nightclub
and restaurant in the Wall Street Tower. Clara Gutierrez,
a native of Spain, created the Basque and Portuguese
dishes | BluWater co-owners
Bart Evans and Dan Anderson bought the old Leschi Lakecafe
from Mick McHugh and plan to renovate
| Bruce and Sara Naftaly have opened an offshoot
of their Le Gourmand. It’s named Sambar, for their
son, Sam. The French bistro features local organic products
| La Medusa is now owned
by Julie Andres, a veteran of this Sicilian-inspired
restaurant. Joining her in the kitchen is her husband,
Evan Andres, who comes from Dahlia Bakery, Macrina,
and Tall Grass Bakery | Dan
Thiessen has been appointed corporate executive chef
of three Salty’s locations.
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| TORONTO
After his lunch-only restaurant
in the Royal Ontario Museum was closed because of renovations,
Jamie Kennedy opened Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar on Church
Street downtown. Nothing on the menu costs more than
$11 | Modern French restaurant
Perigee in the newly developed Distillery District combines
dinner with a show. The kitchen is in the middle of
the dining room, all the better to watch chef Pat Riley
(ex-Avalon) prepare the likes of grilled tuna interleaved
with foie gras and drizzled with truffle sauce. Guests
are encouraged to ask questions
| Also reborn is the Drake Hotel, a former flophouse
on Queen Street West that’s now home to executive
chef David Chrystian (ex-Patriot, Accolade). The dining
room serves cabbage rolls and flat-iron steak
| Restaurateur Johnny Katsuras is back from a
short hiatus with Johnny K: The Restaurant in Leslieville.
The menu cribs from his previous restaurants Lolita’s
Lust and Gus with Greek-influenced feta scalloped potatoes
and grilled fig salads.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Two alumni of The Inn at Little
Washington are planning to open a high-end bar and restaurant
featuring French/Indian cuisine. Jay Coldren, former
Director of Hospitality and Dining at the Inn, and Uday
Huja, former chef at the Inn, are scheduled to open
IndeBleu on G Street across from the MCI Center in late
summer. Coldren will be GM and Huja is to be chef de
cuisine | Christopher Neylon
is now executive chef of Rosa Mexicano in Penn Quarter.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Las Vegas
Get guidance on your ganache and tutoring for your torte
at the World Pastry Forum Recreational Program!
The 2004 World Pastry Forum Recreational Program will
be held in Las Vegas on July 5 and 6, 2004. It is a
series of six, two-hour classes taught by successful
luminaries of the pastry world, including Biagio Settepani,
of Bruno Bakery and Pasticceria Bruno in New York City
and Jenifer Witte, Executive Pastry Chef at the AAA
Five Diamond Award-winning Renoir, at the Mirage Hotel,
Las Vegas. Participants will receive tickets to the
2004 Inniskillin Icewine World Pastry Team Championship
on July 7 and 8. For more information and enrollment
go to www.worldpastryforum.com.
London
The Fat Duck, outside London, where chef Heston Blumenthal
pushes the culinary and philosophical envelope, was
recently awarded its third Michelin star. England now
boasts three Michelin-three-starred restaurants: Gordon
Ramsey’s (London) and Waterside Inn (Bray-on-Thames)
are the other two.
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