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March 2004
| ATLANTA
Linton and Gina Hopkins plan to
open 80-seat Restaurant Eugene in the Aramore on Peachtree
Road this spring. Hopkins, formerly chef de cuisine
at D.C. Coast in Washington, D.C., will serve upscale
American cuisine such as pan-seared foie gras with Rainier
cherries, Vidalia onion compote, and beaten biscuits | Sia Moshk, with chef Scott Serpas, has opened Mitra
in Midtown. Mexican native Gerardo Ramos (ex-Pricci,
Veni Vidi Vici, Dick & Harry’s) is chef de
cuisine. Latin-flavored entrées include banana
leaf–roasted yellowtail snapper with ham pilaf,
and crabcake with guava vinaigrette | Richard Blais’s
menu at the eponymous Blais is full of surprises at
his new Buckhead location. There’s “canned”
soup of the day (served in a can) and a deconstructed
fruit salad | Morningside fish restaurant Indigo Girl
has been replaced, signage and all, by Horizon. Owner
Frata Eldrissi (ex-Ritz-Carlton) and David Gross (ex-City
Grill) have created an elegant room and a fish-oriented
menu | Fine-dining Thai restaurant Nan has moved to
Midtown Heights. Try the sea bass with three-chile sauce,
or barbecued lamb with green papaya | Italian goes west.
Ryan Aiken’s Burrito Art on Howell Mill Road has
gone Italian as Misto Italian American. The Emory Burrito
Art remains as is.
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| BOSTON
Brother Jimmy’s, the restaurant
that replaced the House of Blues in Cambridge, wants
to “put some South in your mouth.” This
includes plenty of North Carolina BBQ and booze, as
well as hush puppies, fried okra, candied yams, and
other traditional side dishes. The first Brother Jimmy’s
opened in Manhattan in 1988, and became a destination
for Southerners as well as New Yorkers; two more New
York outlets followed. This is the first venture in
Massachusetts | Out went upscale French-Asian fusion,
in came local seafood and prime beef as Ambrosia on
Huntington reopened as Blackfin Chop House and Raw Bar.
Chef/owner Anthony Ambrose opened the first Blackfin
in Hingham earlier this year | The latest change at
the cafe in retail store Louis goes further than a new
chef and a new menu. Owner Debi Greenberg renamed the
reopened cafe L. Transplanted New York chef Pino Maffeo
(ex-AZ, Pazo) has replaced the pasta and celebrated
pizza with Asian-influenced prawn tempura and green
papaya salad, and tea-smoked chicken. | The Vault, in
the Financial District, has closed. Owner Brian O’Neill
continues his other restaurant ventures, which include
The Good Life. Chef Carmen Quagliata, who moved to Boston
from California’s wine country, could end up with
his own restaurant | After 21 years in the Back Bay,
Frank Bell is closing The White Star Tavern on Boylston
Street. The space has had several incarnations, among
them Back Bay Bistro and Small Planet. Bell, who helped
start the Super Hunger Brunch fund-raiser for local
food banks, plans to become a consultant and insurance
broker | The Butcher Shop, a wine bar with charcuterie
and meats cut to order, is the newest venture from Barbara
Lynch and Garrett Harker. It’s across the street
from B & G Oysters, the oyster bar they opened recently | Gabriel Frasca is the new executive chef at Spire
in the Nine Zero Hotel. Frasca, who recently returned
to Boston after spending several months in Nantucket,
was formerly chef de cuisine at Radius.
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| CHICAGO
So long Spago. After a seven-year
attempt to woo Chicagoans, Wolfgang Puck has pulled
the plug on Spago. The business just wasn’t there
for him. Although Puck invited chef François
Kwaku-Dongo, who has been with him for 14 years, to
move to his Las Vegas Spago, Kwaku-Dongo chose to stay
in the city he has grown to love. He wants to raise
his two small children here, and open his own restaurant | Eric Aubriot, who recently closed his Halsted Street
restaurant, Escargot, is now executive chef at Fuse
downtown. The new restaurant, in the renovated Hotel
71, combines classic French technique with contemporary
flavors | Missy Robbins (SoHo Grand Hotel) has been
named chef di cucina at Spiaggia. Joining her is new
cafe chef Richard Camarota | Sushi bar and Japanese
fusion mini-chain RA has opened in the Gold Coast. Signature
items include the Tootsie Roll (crab and shrimp maki
topped with sweet eel sauce and tempura bits), and filet
mignon with wasabi-mashed potatoes | The North Shore
suburb of Highwood is getting a taste of Italian tapas
with the opening of Gapeesh! Kyle Waggoner serves small
portions of pasta, meat, seafood, and vegetable entrées.
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| LOS
ANGELES
New vibe. A & M Records co-founder
Herb Alpert has partnered with Robert and Gregg Smith
(Pasadena’s Parkway Grill and Arroyo Chop House)
to open Vibrato at the crest of Beverly Glen Boulevard
and Mulholland Drive. The ambitious fine-dining restaurant
is coupled with a jazz club. Sharon Funt (ex-Nick &
Stef’s Steakhouse) is executive chef. Amy Pressman
(ex-Old Town Bakery) consulted on the dessert menu.
Alpert will oversee jazz bookings | Piero Selvaggio
(Valentino) has sold Posto in Sherman Oaks to the Drago
Brothers (minus family patriarch, Celestino). Chefs
Giacomino (il Pastaio, Piccolo Paradiso in Beverly Hills)
and Tanino Drago (Tanino) joined with veteran general
manager Calogero Drago (Celestino, Pasadena) to convert
the space to Panzanella, where the prices will be lower.
Maître d’ Santo Selvaggio (Piero’s
younger brother) will remain. Posto, established by
Selvaggio in the early 1990s, was the gold standard
for Italian cuisine in the Valley | Rodolfo Costella
and Franco Simplicio (Moonshadows) have opened Sunset
Restaurant in the former Gray Whale in Malibu. Jo Di
Jamco (ex-Café del Rey) prepares American fare
with Asian touches | Rodelio Aglibot (ex-Koi) has opened
YI Cuisine on West Third Street. Look for Asian food
prepared with classic French technique | Oliver in Beverly
Hills is the most recent restaurant venture for Mario
Oliver (Linq). The space is next to the Sports Club/LA
Beverly Hills. Maybe that’s why executive chef
James Legge (ex-Marina City Club) emphasizes healthy
breakfasts, lunches, and dinners, with extensive low-fat,
low-carb options | Ara Kalfayan (Kix) has opened the
elegant Lebanese restaurant Mandaloun in Glendale. Michel
Chammaa prepares traditional and modern Lebanese fare | Brian Wolff has been promoted from sous-chef to chef
de cuisine at Lucques; ditto Daniel Mattern at sister
restaurant A.O.C. Pastry chef Roxana Jullapat (ex-Opaline)
now creates the sweet endings at both Lucques and A.O.C. | Frank Fronda, the opening chef for Napa Valley Grille
in Westwood, has returned to these environs as the executive
chef at the landmark Café del Rey in Marina del
Rey. Café del Rey lost culinary direction some
two years ago when its original chef, Katsuo Nagasawa,
departed | Korean barbecue pioneer Woo Lae Oak in Koreatown
has closed and won’t re-open until late 2005.
The property is being redeveloped into a new, expanded
Woo Lae Oak with ample parking. A more upscale location
on Beverly Hills’ Restaurant Row remains open | Menemsha, Brad Johnson’s tribute to New England
seafood in Marina del Rey, has closed just shy of its
first anniversary | Former Spago Beverly Hills sommelier
Michael Bonaccorsi has died of an apparent heart attack.
Bonaccorsi was a popular figure at the Wolfgang Puck
Fine Dining restaurants for 10 years, beloved for his
staff wine training programs. Most recently, he was
the principal of Bonaccorsi Wine Co., a boutique producer
of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. He was just 43.
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| NEW ORLEANS
Other appetites. Two brothel keepers
have turned to the restaurant trade. Two Dames is the
casual Italian eatery on St. Philip Street opened by
Jeanette Maier (aka The Canal Street Madam) and her
mother, Tommie Taylor. The duo will perform “The
Happy Cooker” cooking demonstrations, Thursday
through Sunday. We kid you not | Jason Doyle, the young
entrepreneur who opened The Wine Loft and Huey’s
24-7 in the Warehouse District, is on the move again.
This time he has two new interests in the Central Business
District. The Lafayette Sports Club and Rasputin’s
Restaurant will open in the Lafayette Hotel. Rasputin’s
will stock more than 90 vodkas and serve traditional
Russian dishes | Popular uptown Southwestern restaurant
Vaqueros is expanding to Metairie, opening a second
location in the former Odyssey Grill space | Kentucky
native Larry Wyatt is looking to expand his Hillbilly
Bar-B-Q restaurant in River Ridge | Also in the barbecue
business is Tenney Flynn, chef and co-owner of GW Fins.
The former director of culinary operations for Ruth’s
Chris Steak House has opened Zydeque in the French Quarter.
Flynn expects to serve Louisiana barbecue. His spice
mixture comes from Paul Prudhomme, and it doesn’t
get more authentic than that.
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| NEW
YORK
Waxing and waning. Jonathan Waxman
and partner Roy Welland have closed Washington Park.
Welland plans to renovate the space and open with a
new concept, bringing on board Shea Gallante, formerly
of Bouley. In the meantime, Waxman is busy on a more
casual eatery, Barbuto, set to open this month in the
Meatpacking District. We hope he puts his fritto misto
on the menu | Ariane Daguin says skyrocketing rent forced
her to close D’Artagnan, her restaurant and boutique
in Midtown specializing in Gascon cuisine; she hopes
to open in a new location. Meanwhile, New Yorkers who
can’t wait for their fix of cassoulet and foie
gras can still find D’Artagnan products online.
The wholesale division also continues to do business | American Park at the Battery closed in January after
disagreements with the city’s Parks Department.
A group of new owners, including the owners of Terrace
on the Park in Queens, plans to re-open the space with
a new chef and a new name this spring. American Park
chef Rad Matmati is exploring other opportunities | Mauro Mafrici has tossed his last handmade orecchiette
con broccólí rabe at i Trulli, where
he turned out delectable Apulian dishes for the past
six years. He says he wants a kitchen to call his own.
We’ll keep you posted. Owner Nicola Marzovilla
and his mama, Dora, are overseeing the menu at
i Trulli | Michael Haimowitz has left the wine-focused
Morrells Restaurant in the Flatiron district, where
he was opening chef. Previously, he was chef of the
popular Morrell Wine Bar and Café at Rockefeller
Center. His replacement is Patricia Williams, whose
New York credentials include Butterfield 81 and City
Wine & Cigar Co., both now closed | A staged version
of food writer Betty Fussell’s My Kitchen Wars
opens this month at the 78th Street Theatre Lab in Manhattan.
Based on the food writer’s bittersweet memoir
of marriage, cooking, and emancipation, the play stars
Dorothy Lyman (Emmy-winning Opal Gardner from All
My Children), with live jazz accompaniment by Melissa
Sweeney. The show is in previews March 5 through 13;
it opens on the 14th, and is scheduled to close on May
1. Call the theater or visit www.smarttix.com for more
information | One man, many hats. Chris Santos oversees
the tiny but delicious Southwestern and Latin menu at
Mojo in the East Village. He is also an owner of Mexican
Sandwich Company in Brooklyn. Now he’s added the
title of executive chef of Suba on the Lower East Side
to his portfolio. Santos replaces consulting chef Luis
Bollo | Sashia Muniak has opened his fourth Mangia takeout
shop, this one in the Flatiron neighborhood. The trademark
buffet and cooked-to-order food stations are the responsibility
of Tuscan chef Roberto Lamorte, who has a knack for
baked asparagus with egg and Gorgonzola, and cod alla
romana with fried artichokes. Muniak plans to open a
full-service Italian restaurant in the West Village
later this year | The times they are a-changing. For
25 years, Jean-Jacques Rachou has offered New Yorkers
the haute-est of haute cuisine at La Côte Basque.
Alas, that bastion of formal French dining is to close
this month. Rachou plans to reopen the space in a few
months as the more casual LCB Brasserie | The Asian-esque
Union Pacific has reopened after a makeover. TV star/chef
Rocco DiSpirito remains the executive chef of record,
but the man in the kitchen on a daily basis is David
Coleman, formerly of Café Atlas on Central Park
West | He’ll take Manhattan. Argentine restaurateur
Francis Mallman, who owns restaurants in Argentina,
Uruguay, and Westhampton Beach, New York, plans to open
the upscale Francis Mallman restaurant in Midtown next
fall. His partner is Dennis Riese of the Riese Organization,
a fast-food and chain-restaurant operator in New York | Restaurant makeover. Enoteca Antonio on the Upper
East Side has transformed itself into the rustic Carvão.
Chef/owner Antonio Francesco designed the dining room
to reflect the menu, which marries the foods of Portugal
and South America. The wood-burning oven produces a
succulent chicken churrasco and baby octopus braised
in red wine | Spicy & Tasty is, as it says, a Sichuan
restaurant serving spicy and tasty food. The Flushing
restaurant recently reopened in a new, grander location | Bronx rising. Chef Michael Sherman and his pastry
chef/wife, Lisa, have opened Riverdale Garden, a restaurant,
wine bar, and bakery near Manhattan College. The Shermans
are putting their top-drawer New York City restaurant
experiences (he—Lespinasse, Aureole, Bouley; she—Lespinasse)
to good use. In the charming space they’ve created,
they are serving delicious, straightforward contemporary
American dishes like slow-roasted beet and goat cheese
salad, mushroom risotto, and herb-crusted rack of lamb | Marco Morillo, formerly of industry (food) and Palladin,
has partnered—personally and professionally—with
Debbie Lyn, an alum of Payard Pâtisserie &
Bistro, to open Crave in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn.
The cafe has a relaxed vibe, and offers affordable wines,
microbrewed beers, and excellent food, such as crispy
duck leg confit with caramelized pearl onions over vinegary
frisée. Crave something simpler? They’ve
got a mammoth burger. There is takeout and a catering
company, too | Looking for harmony, good health, wealth,
and peace of mind? Or are you just hungry? Grab a bite
at the new Feng Shui, favorably located, we presume,
on the lower-level dining concourse of Grand Central
Terminal. Chef Ben Lee, previously of the Mandarin Oriental
Shanghai, is preparing Chinese favorites | Partners
Alessandro Prosperi and Danny Emerman seem to have a
winning formula for casual Italian eateries, and an
obsession with the letter “b.” Now their
Barocco, Bottino, and Bot have been joined by Bivio,
which has opened near the Meatpacking District. The
bar boasts an enoteca menu, and the restaurant serves
flavorful, rustic cooking, such as arugula and fennel
salad with Parmesan, and whole roasted branzino | Pastryscoop.com,
in conjunction with The French Culinary Institute, is
hosting the first annual Passion for Pastry Conference
on March 7 and 8 at the school in SoHo. Enjoy discussions
and demonstrations from Sherry Yard of Spago, Bill Yosses
of Citarella, and Emily Luchetti of Farallon, among
many others. Visit www.pastryscoop.com for more information.
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| PHILADELPHIA
Bargain hunter. Stephen Starr was
the only bidder for Striped Bass, Neil Stein’s
pioneering fish restaurant on Walnut Street. The $1.3
million bid in December was part of Stein’s bankruptcy
proceedings. Stein, whose Avenue B closed in May, once
vied with Starr for local restaurant supremacy. For
now, it seems Starr has triumphed, bulking his portfolio
up to ten restaurants (with three more in the works).
Starr recently transformed his solid Blue Angel bistro
into Italian-themed Angelina. Christopher Painter, formerly
top toque at Starr’s Tangerine, is in charge of
the kitchen | Frank Clement’s Tavern in Center
City, open since Prohibition, has been replaced by Good
Dog, with CIA grad Jessica Curley as chef | Occupying
long-vacant space on lower Market Street in Old City,
Panini Trattoria has opened a BYOB, specializing in
panini and other things Italian | Turkish delights are
to be found in Old City (along with a belly dancer on
Thursday nights) at Konak on Vine Street.
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| SAN
DIEGO
Alberto Mestre, of the Gaslamp’s
Candalas, has opened Ventanas in the East Village downtown.
The new restaurant features a lounge and contemporary
Mexican cuisine | Matt Rimel of Zenbu fame has opened
Mesquite in Scripps Ranch | With the opening of the
new ball park adjacent to the Gaslamp district, culinary
ventures are cropping up all over. The latest to open
are Bacchus Wine Market and Tasting Room and Bread on
Market. Both have been welcomed by condo owners in the
resurging downtown area | South Park Bar & Grill
has opened with executive chef Eric Welburn at the helm.
Locals love it. Welburn comes from Bradley Ogden’s
Lark Creek Inn in northern California | A. J. Voytko, formerly of Chive downtown, has
moved inland to the tony Inn at Rancho Santa Fe. Look
forward to big changes on the meat-and-potatoes menu.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Charlie Hansji is now executive
chef at Palette in the newly renovated Madison Hotel
downtown. He was sous-chef at The Four Seasons hotel
in Georgetown | Kathy Morgan, sommelier at Occidental
Grill, has moved to Ristorante Tosca | Pascal Dionot
(ex-L’Académie de Cuisine) is executive
chef at The Historic Georgetown Club | Rick LaPointe
has returned from Japan, where he was food critic at
The Japan Times, to become retail restaurant
chef at the Washington Convention Center.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Playa del Rey,
CA
Chloe’s March
Wine Dinner will take place on Tuesday, March 30th.
Chefs Christian Shaffer and Jeff Osaka will present
a five-course meal paired with some of the finest wines
from Frank Family Vineyards and Napa Cellars. Featured
wines will include the Frank Family Blanc de Blanc n.v.,
Chardonnay 2001, Sangiovese 2001, and Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon 1998 as well as the Napa Cellars Late Harvest
Zinfandel 2001. Hors d’oeuvres reception
from 7:00-8:00pm, followed by dinner at 8:00pm. Chloe
Restaurant is located at 333 Culver Boulevard in Playa
del Rey, CA. The Wine Dinner is open to the public and
is priced at $85 per guest, excluding tax and gratuity.
For reservations or more information, please call 310.305.4505
or click on www.chloerestaurant.com.
Las Vegas
Get guidance on your ganache and tutoring for your torte
at the World Pastry Forum Recreational Program!
The 2004 World Pastry Forum Recreational Program will
be held in Las Vegas on July 5 and 6, 2004. It is a
series of six, two-hour classes taught by successful
luminaries of the pastry world, including Biagio Settepani,
of Bruno Bakery and Pasticceria Bruno in New York City
and Jenifer Witte, Executive Pastry Chef at the AAA
Five Diamond Award-winning Renoir, at the Mirage Hotel,
Las Vegas. Participants will receive tickets to the
2004 Inniskillin Icewine World Pastry Team Championship
on July 7 and 8. For more information and enrollment
go to www.worldpastryforum.com.
South Beach,
FL
Join in the celebration of exquisite indulgences offered
by the country’s most renowned chefs, local culinary
masters, and some of the world’s most accomplished vintners.
The third annual South Beach Wine & Food Festival is
the ultimate culinary weekend event offering three full
days of tastings, a celebrity chef dinner series, and
seminars from leading industry figures. Presented by
Food & Wine Magazine, net proceeds benefit the FIU School
of Hospitality & Tourism Management Teaching Restaurant
and its Southern Wine & Spirits Beverage Management
Center. Click here
for more info.
Dover, NH
Christopher “Koz” Kozlowski (Crescent City
Bistro & Rum Bar) plans to open a New York–style
steakhouse in the former Firehouse 1 Restaurant this
May.
Greenwich,
CT
UK-based Marlon Abela has opened Gaia, a fine-dining
restaurant downtown. The space features vaulted arches
from famed Spanish tile craftsman Rafael Guastavino
(the same as in New York City’s Oyster Bar and
Guastavino) and contemporary French food from Bjorn
van der Horst (ex-Picholine) and pastry chef Michael
Moorhouse (ex-Picholine, Ouest, Tabla). A number of
signature dishes are prepared and served in sealed glass
jars, which seems to be the latest fine-dining trend.
Miami
David Bouley plans to open a restaurant later this year
at the spanking-new Ritz-Carlton, South Beach, in Miami
Beach.
Mougins, France
Changing of the guard. Now that the world-famous chef
Roger Vergé has retired, the celebrated Moulin
de Mougins near Cannes has a new owner. Alain Llorca
was most recently the executive chef of Le Chantecler,
a Michelin two-star restaurant in the Negresco Hotel
in Nice. Llorca may have some famous shoes to fill,
but given his reputation, epicures needn’t worry.
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