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December 2003
| ATLANTA
Strap on the feed bag. Celita
Bullard and Joseph Owens have turned a 19th-century
historic building in College Park into The Feed
Store restaurant and bar. It really was a feed
store, operated for almost 75 years by Bullard’s
grandmother. The American/Southern menu by Michael
Schom (ex-Cavu Midtown Bistro) includes spinach-artichoke
cannelloni and Asian-spiced hanger steak
| Sia Moshk, who opened Sia’s in
Duluth with Scott Serpas, has moved back into
the city with Mitra in Midtown. Mitra, located
on Juniper Street, serves American food with a
Latin twist |
Richard Blais (Fishbones) will open Blais
in the former Peachtree Café space on East
Paces Ferry Road with partners David Davoudpour,
George McKerrow, and Ron San Martin. Johnson Studio
designed the 80-seat restaurant
| Michel Arnette (ex-Buckhead Life Group)
is opening a loft-style restaurant in Brookhaven.
Haven’s, on Dresden Drive, will feature
new American cuisine
| Rodney Wedge and Connie Chatham (Fuego
Alpharetta) are bringing tapas to Midtown with
Fuego & Tapas Bar on Crescent Avenue
| Alex Wolf is now chef at Atlanta Grille
in The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta. A native of Germany,
Wolf worked at the Venetian in Las Vegas and at
the Adolphus in Dallas
| Brooklyn in Sandy Springs is opening
a second location in Norcross. Chef de cuisine
Jon Logan Aiken will oversee the menu
| Also in Sandy Springs, the Neighborhood
Dining Group (Chicago’s, Bitter End, Queen
Anne’s) is opening Chicago’s No. 4
in The Parkside shopping center with The Desserty.
The chef is Ciaran Duffy from 191 Club and RainWater
Restaurant.
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| CHICAGO
¡Hola! Señor
Trotter. Charlie Trotter is heading south of the
border to open “C” in Los Cabos, Mexico,
in February. The fine-dining restaurant is his
first outside the United States, and is part of
the luxury One & Only Palmilla resort. The
menu will feature indigenous Mexican flavors and
preparations, as well as local seafood. Adam Tihany
is designing the room
| Le Français lives again. The
north suburban bastion of haute cuisine was reopened
by brothers Michael and Thomas Lachowicz (Les
Deux Gros in Glen Ellyn). With the backing of
transportation mogul Mike Moran, the brothers
bought Le Français from retired chef Jean
Banchet, and closed Les Deux Gros, which they
had been leasing. Not so incidentally, Michael
Lachowicz worked for Banchet in the 1980s and
became a true believer in the classic French style.
“Michael is the only one doing my cooking,”
said Banchet |
“Celtic fusion cuisine” is
what they are selling at the Galway Arms, a newish
Lincoln Park restaurant in a Gothic building.
Wade Fortin (ex-American Club) is dishing out
an upscale version of the storied Scottish meat
pies called Forfar Bridies, in which he wraps
phyllo pastry around duck confit and duxelles
| La Vita
restaurant in Little Italy has a new lease on
life with the arrival of chef Nick Van Wassenhove
(ex-Le Passage, Rosebud). Signature dishes include
mussels sautéed in marinara sauce with
pancetta; fettuccine salmone; and grilled New
Zealand lamb chops
| Japonais has opened alongside the Chicago
River in the old Montgomery Ward’s headquarters.
Jun Ichikawa (ex-Mirai Sushi) oversees the sushi,
and Gene Kato (ex-Ohba) handles the rest of the
menu, such as Kobe prime rib. The restaurant is
a partnership between Miae Lim (Mirai Sushi, Ohba),
Rick Wahlstedt (Le Colonial, Le Passage), and
Jonathan Segal (P.J. Clarke’s, Le Colonial)
| After
boosting the menu at Carlucci restaurant in suburban
Rosemont, John Coletta has been named executive
chef of the new branch in Downers Grove
| Although a number of German restaurants
have closed here in recent years, Jim Glunz has
opened his namesake Glunz Bavarian Haus in the
Lincoln Square neighborhood. Chef Markus Aichorn
is serving a handful of American dishes, along
with classics like Wiener schnitzel, veal bratwurst,
and apple strudel.
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| HOUSTON
Pop icons. Set to open sometime
this month, the Hotel Icon downtown will have
a signature restaurant (as yet unnamed) by Jean-Georges
Vongerichten and a Whiskey Bar by Rande Gerber
(husband of model Cindy Crawford)
| John Sheely (Mockingbird Bistro) has
sold the Riviera Grill to the Sam Houston Hotel
owners. Riviera Grill chef Jonathan Jones has
moved to Pat-A-Cake in Wharton, where he makes
Gulf Coast cuisine
| Barbara Farrar has sold Chez Nous to
former owner Gerard Brach
| Claire Smith (Daily Review Cafe) has
opened Shade in the former Kaldi Cafe space on
West 19th Street. Chef Jeb Stuart is returning
from Anniston, Alabama, to run the kitchen
| Beso, a new spot from Solero chef Arturo
Boada and partner Bill Sadler (Cafe Noche, Moose
Cafe, etc.), takes over the space that was Two
Chefs Bistro. The menu will feature Latin American
flavors, steaks, and Boada’s deft touch
with seafood |
Olivette at The Houstonian has hired Jesse
Llapitan (The St. Regis, Los Angeles) as executive
chef. He replaces Jim Mills, now general manager.
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| LONDON
Ivy league. Harvard Bar &
Grill is a new American that has opened in the
Thistle Hotel in Victoria on the former site of
Christopher’s Victoria
| The elegant Japanese restaurant Viktor
has opened in Knightsbridge. Owners Lubov Shurmer
and Marianna Istomina also own a restaurant in
St. Petersburg. The Modern Japanese food has Latin
American, French, and Russian influences. Consultant
chef Oyamada Yasuta is from Sushi Samba in New
York City |
Darbar is a new Indian restaurant in Fulham, with
the chef from Red Fort
| Terence Conran has opened Plateau in
Canary Wharf above the Reebok Gym
| Restaurant Associates has formed a partnership
with Gary Rhodes to take over the fine-dining
room at Tower 42, the NatWest Tower. The restaurant
will be called Rhodes Twenty Four and will serve
Rhodes’s signature “Best of British”
cuisine |
Oliver Peyton (Isola, Mash, Atlantic Bar &
Grill) is collaborating with Moroccan couple Mehdi
and Leila Bahraoui on the restoration of the 1950s
Villa Zevaco in Casablanca. This landmarked building
is being converted into an “epicentre of
Epicureanism” with a restaurant, bar, and
tea salon |
Isola now has a restaurant within a restaurant.
The casual and inexpensive Antipasti Bar downstairs
serves small plates of Italian delicacies.
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| LOS
ANGELES
New Patina. Joachim Splichal
has moved his flagship Hollywood restaurant Patina
to more spacious quarters in the new $274 million
Walt Disney Concert Hall downtown. Hagy Belzberg
designed the new 4,500-square-foot space. The
new chef is Theo Schoenegger (ex-Rock Center Café
in Rockefeller Center, New York City). Meanwhile,
the Melrose Avenue original has become a private
event space, Patina Privé
| Veteran Patina sommelier Chris Meeske
has purchased Mission Wines, a boutique wine merchant
in South Pasadena
| Luna Park in San Francisco has opened
a branch on La Brea Avenue just down the street
from Campanile. Co-owners A. J. Gilbert (he runs
the front) and chef/partner Joe Jack offer reasonably
priced, California bistro fare
| In the early ’90s, Maxim’s-trained
pastry chef Laurent Quenioux dazzled downtown
diners at the long-departed Seventh Street Bistro.
Since then he has kept a low profile in Alhambra
with the petit Bistro 1000 and a modest catering
business. Now, Quenioux has opened Bistro K in
South Pasadena, a labor of love clearly done on
a modest budget. The menu offers European, Asian,
and Mexican specialties
| The long-vacant Jozu space in West Hollywood
is now home to Citrine Restaurant. David Slatkin
(ex-Fenix at The Argyle Hotel, Mojo at the W Hotel)
makes a Californian menu with Asian and Cuban
touches |
After losing a reported $2.5 million with “cowboy
cuisine” at Reata Restaurant in Beverly
Hills, you’d never expect Texas cattle baron
Al Miscallef to try it again. Two years later,
Miscallef is back with Reata Grill in the Westfield
Shoppingtown Promenade in Woodland Hills. Thai
chef Ped Phommavong (ex-Lemongrass) oversees an
East-meets-West menu
| Enrico Glaudo (ex-Primi) is now executive
chef at Frascati Ristorante & Bar in Redondo
Beach. Opening chef Soerke Peters returns to sister
restaurant Ca’ Del Sole
| Creative differences prompted Christophe
Eme to leave L’Orangerie after 14 months
and good reviews. Former sous-chef Jean-Claude
Mons is the interim replacement
| Quinn Hatfield has left Casa del Mar
in Santa Monica for San Francisco, where he has
opened a restaurant for Pascal Rigo in Hotel Adagio
with his wife, Karen Hatfield, as co-executive
chef |
Celestino Drago has given up on Celestino’s
Italian Steak House on Beverly Boulevard. The
Piedmont beef will be served instead at Enoteca
Drago, scheduled to finally open this month on
North Canon Drive in Beverly Hills
| Rosa Maria Cardini, whose father, Caesar
Cardini, is said to have invented the Caesar salad
at Caesar’s Hotel in Tijuana, has died at
75. In the late 1930s, the Cardinis moved to Los
Angeles, where Rosa bottled their signature salad
dressing at home and sold it at the Original Farmers
Market. Rosa developed Caesar Cardini Foods into
a multimillion-dollar business that was eventually
sold to Dolefan Corp. in 1988.
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| NEW
ORLEANS
Island flavor. After a short
break to redecorate, Dominique Macquet has created
a tropical ambiance at Dominique’s in the
Maison Dupuy Hotel. New menu items include baby
conch from the Caicos, lobster from the Caribbean,
and snapper from Key West
| Alex Patout has reopened his eponymous
restaurant in Mandeville, after a fire gutted
the former Bechac’s historic property. The
building dates from the 1830s, but Patout promises
contemporary Louisiana cuisine, such as blackened
Brie with blueberry vinaigrette
| Richard Wu (Ding How) has bought Mr.
Tai’s, a forerunner of Hunan-Szechuan cuisine
in Metairie. The renamed Ocean City Chinese Restaurant
will serve Cantonese and Mandarin seafood
| Last supper. After more than ten years,
Charley G’s has served its last meal in
Metairie. Chef/owner Charley Goodson is concentrating
on his Lafayette operations. D’Angelo’s,
an Italian chain from Baton Rouge, is moving into
the Veterans Boulevard location
| Caterer Joel Dondis has been talking
about opening a restaurant for a long time. Now
under construction in the trendy Magazine Street
area is La Petite Grocery, a dream come true for
Dondis and partners Anton and Diane Schulte (ex-Peristyle)
| Hotelfront.
Victor’s Grill replaces Victor’s in
The Ritz-Carlton, and the Grill Room at the Windsor
Court Hotel has been split into the New Orleans
Grill and The Terrace.
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| NEW
YORK
It’s official. A few
months ago we reported that chef Tadashi Ono (ex-Sono,
La Caravelle) planned to open a restaurant in
Chelsea’s new boutique hotel, the Maritime
Hotel. Matsuri, which means “festival”
in Japanese, is now open for business. Itadakimasu
| Terre
shaky. Until recently, Christian Delouvrier had
his hands full with two upcoming projects. Now
one of them, Terre, is history. Chris Bass, who
was to have been the financial backer, still plans
to build some kind of eatery in the Meatpacking
District space, but Delouvrier is concentrating
on his other concept, Delouvrier, a fine-dining
restaurant slated to open next year
| After a decade of innovative, Greenmarket-derived
cooking, husband-and-wife chefs Diane Forley and
Michael Otsuka have shuttered Verbena and the
adjacent Bar Demi; they lost their lease. The
duo are looking for a new location
| Mr. Fitoussi goes to Washington. Michel
Fitoussi, the top toque at Palace Restaurant and
later 24 Fifth Avenue, both in New York (and,
it just so happens, Forley’s mentor), is
now Restaurant Associates’ executive chef
for the restaurants at the John F. Kennedy Center
for the Performing Arts in Washington, D.C. For
more details see D.C. dateline (page 48)
| Is it a cursed location or a sign of
the times? SoHo’s short-lived 325 Spring
Street, a gastronomic ode to the exalted (and
exorbitant) truffle creations of France’s
truffle king, Clément Bruno, has closed.
The restaurant replaced the equally short-lived
Théo |
Bubby’s, a homey fixture on the
TriBeCa dining scene, has opened a sister restaurant
in Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighborhood. Look for
the same delicious, home-style cooking—items
like meatloaf, macaroni and cheese, and pies
| Pampano Taqueria is the new takeout
spinoff of nearby Pampano in Turtle Bay. Open
on weekdays for lunch only, the stand offers an
inviting array of reasonably priced burritos,
quesadillas, sandwiches, and tacos—including
our personal favorite, the langosta with sautéed
lobster, black bean purée, chile de arbol
salsa, and avocado
| Rustic Italian food lovers everywhere,
rejoice. Sara Jenkins, whose deliciously simple
cucina we loved at I Coppi, Il Buco, and
Patio Dining, is back. Now she’s at 50 Carmine,
turning out wilted escarole salad with anchovy
dressing and buttery croutons, pennette Abbruzzese
with crumbled sausage and broccoli rabe, and fricassee
of lamb with braised artichokes. Proprietor Paola
Bottero also owns the excellent Paola’s
on the Upper East Side
| On the move. Franklin Becker has left
the breathtaking Capitale for a “grander”
location. He’s now the executive chef of
the TriBeCa Grand Hotel, overseeing current food
and beverage operations and planning the hotel’s
new restaurant. At Capitale, chef de cuisine Fred
Brightman has replaced Becker
| Chef Frank DeCarlo is no longer involved
in Apizz on the Lower East Side. His former partner
in Apizz, John LaFemina, is now in sole control.
DeCarlo continues to make culinary magic at Peasant
| Amma
is a new Indian restaurant in Midtown, where chef
Hemant Mathur, formerly of Diwan Grill and Tamarind,
and caterer Suvir Saran have teamed up to bring
New Yorkers a clever fusion of Indian flavors.
You can’t go wrong with stuffed chicken
legs spiked with pickled eggplant, lamb chops
with sweet-and-sour pear chutney, and idli dumplings
sautéed in curry, mustard seed, and coconut,
all of which keep wine consultant extraordinaire
Josh Wesson working overtime. Save room for the
mango cheesecake
| We love Lucy. Pearson’s Texas
Barbecue has Upper East Siders licking their well-manicured
fingers, and Daisy Mae supplies the rest of us
with an incredible takeout business on the West
Side, so we figured it was just a matter of time
before barbecue diversified. Enter Lucy Mexican
Barbecue. Andrew DiCataldo of Patria took over
the Pipa and Chicama spaces in ABC Carpet &
Home after the departure of Douglas Rodriguez.
He has kept the former, but has transformed the
latter into Lucy Mexican Barbecue, offering an
inviting assortment of tacos, ceviches, tostadas,
sopas, and tamales. It’s the barbacoa,
though, that will keep you coming back
| The landmark Grotta Azzurra in Little
Italy has reopened, and we bet Ol’ Blue
Eyes is smiling. Originally opened in 1908, the
famed Sinatra hangout has been closed for the
past six years. Happily, after a breathtaking
renovation, its azure waters flow once again.
There’s even a famous cave, only this one
is filled with wine. Chef Chris Pfeifer’s
menu ranges from lobster and crab ravioli with
Vin Santo to grilled swordfish with “melted”
tomatoes, capers, and black olives
| Divine Divane. Turkish restaurateur
Orhan Yegen, who brought us Beyoglu and Efendi,
has added another delectable eatery to his portfolio.
Divane in Hell’s Kitchen has but a minimal
selection of Turkish meze, but that’s just
to ensure that diners can focus on the array of
char-grilled entrées, including seafood,
fish, lamb, and filet mignon.
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| PITTSBURGH
Nerves of steel. Gary Reinert,
Jr., has opened Hot Metal Grille in the shadow
of the Hot Metal Bridge on the South Side. The
decor is post-industrial chic, the food contemporary
American. Meanwhile, Reinert closed his other
restaurant, Seventh Street Grille downtown, when
the lease ran out
| Joseph Difiore has retired, selling
his landmark Shadyside restaurant, The Elbow Room,
to his son, Mike (Buffalo Blues)
| Jeff Stasko and Karl Kargle (The Inn
on the Mexican War Streets) have opened Acanthus
Restaurant, with a French country menu, in the
restored carriage house
| George Leventis (Peter’s Pub)
and George Sliman have opened the casual Bridge
Café on the South Side. The former Viaggio
site had been vacant for four years
| Joseph Collincino (Miyako Japanese Steak
& Seafood Restaurant) and Rebecca Gomes have
opened Nakama Japanese Steak House and Sushi Bar
on the South Side
| Executive chef Mark Dyanadon has left
the Pittsburgh Hilton downtown
| Scott Cape (ex-Nemacolin Woodlands Resort
& Spa) replaces James Walsh as executive chef
of The Renaissance Hotel and Opus Restaurant downtown.
The new Nemacolin top toque is Jeremy Critchfield
| Executive
chef Dandi Bockius has left Mitchell’s Fish
Market in Homestead
| Bikki Kochhar opened Bikki in Shadyside.
Chris Frangiadis (ex-Isabela) created the Euro-Indian
menu of small plates and a bread buffet
| Nigerian-born Sam Johnson (Kayla’s)
opened Safari, a large African and Caribbean restaurant,
club, and convenience store, in the Strip District
| Steven
Thomas Cortez replaces the short-lived Patrick
Herbert as chef de cuisine at Perroquet French
Bistro |
Valhalla, the last brewpub in the Strip District,
has closed. big Burrito Restaurant Group bought
the property and plans to open a restaurant there
next spring.
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| SAN
FRANCISCO
Sweet life. Your elderly
auntie won’t recognize the former space
in Nob Hill’s Fairmont Hotel that last housed
Masons restaurant. It has been turned into Restaurant
Sofia, with a look and feel right out of La Dolce
Vita. The hotel has leased the space to cb5 Restaurant
Group, a Connecticut company that owns and manages
restaurants in several Starwood Hotels, and for
international real estate mogul Sheldon Gordon
| Azul
has taken over 1 Tillman Place, the space that
once housed Rumpus
| The Carneros Inn is a new resort rising
on a hill above vineyards on Highway 121 in Napa.
The complex encompasses 96 cottages, a pool, an
in-house restaurant called Hilltop (for guests
only), and the casual Boon Fly Cafe, open to the
public. The chef for both restaurants is Phillip
Wang, formerly of Jardinière in San Francisco
and Restaurant Daniel in Manhattan
| After just months, John Beardsley has
left Le Colonial, the high-style Vietnamese restaurant
on Cosmo Place, to become executive chef of Azie,
the Folsom Street fusion restaurant. He says he’s
looking forward to Azie’s smaller space
and broader menu
| In Yountville, Philippe Jeanty plans
to open the Mediterranean-themed Père Jeanty
on Washington Street. He’s hired Jude Wilmoth,
who has cooked at Tra Vigne, Piatti’s, and
Napa Valley Grille, as chef de cuisine of the
130-seat restaurant.
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| SEATTLE
Leaving home. Walter Pisano
left his family’s restaurant, Tulio, in
the Hotel Vintage Park for Trioani’s, a
new restaurant from Paul Mackay and Rich Trioani
| After
executive chef Matt Costello left Library Bistro
for the Inn at Langley, the bistro stopped serving
dinner |
Let’s hope the third time is a charm for
727 Pine in the Grand Hyatt after the promotion
of sous-chef Shannon Galusha to executive chef.
The loss of Danielle Custer, followed by Kyle
Nelson, has left the kitchen wondering what’s
goin’ on
| Hector’s has reopened under new
owner Stuart McLeod, who has restored the 80-year-old
Kirkland restaurant to its original charm. Executive
chef Christopher Nelson and sous-chef Dan Costa
(both ex-Yarrow Bay Grill & Beach Cafe) are
serving American comfort food
| Wild Ginger owners Rick and Ann Yoder
have opened the upscale nightclub The Triple Door,
aimed at the over-30 set
| Japanese restaurant and sushi bar Nikko
has quietly closed in the Westin Hotel. Among
those sad to see it go are former chef/owner Tak
Suetsugu and his wife, Minae, who sold it in 2001.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
Jamie Stachowski, formerly
of eCiti in Tysons Corner, has taken over La Tarbouche
on K Street. Stachowski, who is known for his
American cuisine, will rename the space Restaurant
Columbia |
Sheila Johnson has tapped Equinox chef/owner Todd
Gray to develop a “working chefs’
market” called Market Salamander in Middleburg,
Virginia. The market, which is aimed at consumers
but will sell chef-quality items, is but one stage
of Johnson’s grand plan. She plans to open
Salamander Inn & Spa in November 2004, including
a restaurant by Gray
| CIA graduate Frederic Przyborowski (ex-Ardeo)
is restaurant chef at the new Roof Terrace Restaurant
& Bar at the John F. Kennedy Center for the
Performing Arts (For details, see NYC dateline
page 45.) |
Christopher Clime is now chef de cuisine at Ceiba,
serving contemporary Latin American cuisine. Clime
grew up in northern Virginia and in Ceiba, Puerto
Rico, hence the name. Jason Andelman is the new
pastry chef at Ten Penh, filling in for executive
pastry chef David Guas as he focuses on Ceiba
and DC Coast. All three restaurants are owned
by Passion Food, LLC.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Las
Vegas
Celebrity chef Bobby Flay plans to open a Mesa
Grill in Caesars Palace. It will be his first
venture outside New York City. The David Rockwell–designed
restaurant is scheduled to open next spring.
Newton
Square, PA
Win and Sutida Somboonsong (Thai Pepper, Mikado)
have opened the Japanese-Thai restaurant Teikoku
outside Philadelphia.
Woodstock,
VT
Graham Elliot Bowles (ex-Charlie Trotter’s,
Tru, The Mansion on Turtle Creek) has been named
executive chef at The Jackson House Inn &
Restaurant.
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