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November 2003
| BOSTON
Bricco by bricco. Bricco restaurant
in the North End is now under the guidance of
Marisa Iocco and Rita D’Angelo, who started
at Galleria Italiana and had several ventures
in between. Serious diners clear out around 10
p.m., when the bar area transforms into a hot
scene with funky lighting and brick-oven pizza
until 2 A.M. |
Jim Hamelburg and company took over the
space formerly occupied by On the Park, creating
Joe V.’s with simple, moderately priced
Italian cuisine and cafe-style dining
| Centro owner Brian O’Neill has
hired chef Ben Nathan (ex-The Fireplace) to streamline
the Cambridge eatery’s rustic Italian fare
and scale back the prices
| Todd Winer, formerly the Olives Group’s
floating corporate chef, has been promoted to
executive chef at KingFish Hall
| Meritage restaurant at the Boston Harbor
Hotel has added a wine school under sommelier
Jamie Moore.
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| LONDON
Marcus Wareing’s Petrus restaurant
has reopened in The Berkeley Hotel. Wareing has
also opened Fleur, a more casual and less expensive
version of Petrus, in the former Petrus space
on St. James’s Street
| Alan Yau (Hakkasan, Wagamamma, Busaba
Eathai) has opened Anda, a casual no-reservations
Italian with communal dining
| Chris Bodker is relaunching his West
Street restaurant as East with Australian chef
Christine Manfield. Manfield’s Sydney restaurant,
Paramount, closed in 2000, giving her time to
write cookbooks, arrange foodie tours, and give
cooking lessons. The Asian flavors at East are
inspired by Vietnam, China, and Japan
| The Malmaison hotel group’s first
hotel venture in the greater London area will
include Malmaison Brasserie & Bar, a traditional
French brasserie
| Hush’s owners, Geoffrey Moore and
Jamie Barber, have opened Shumi on St. James’s
Street. The Italian food, meant for sharing, is
heavily influenced by Japanese presentation
| The first Oxford Wine & Food Festival
is to be held November 14 and 15 at the Saïd
Business School in Oxford. The speakers include
wine expert Jancis Robinson and restaurateur Raymond
Blanc. The £215 admission includes 20 workshops.
For more information: www.owff.co.uk
| Ben O’Donoghue (ex-Monte’s)
is the new chef at Atlantic Bar & Grill
| Recent closures include Cedar Lounge
and Wok Wok.
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| LOS
ANGELES
Cool cat. David Wilhelm (French
75, Savannah Steak & Chop House, Sorrento
Grille) has opened the $3.2 million Chat Noir
Bistro & Jazz Lounge in Costa Mesa’s
theater district. Chris Reischl created the French
bistro menu |
WeHo classic Le Dome has reopened with
a $2 million investment and Tuscan villa face-lift
by designer Dodd Mitchell. Sam Marvin (ex-Piero’s
in Las Vegas, Modada) is in the kitchen, along
with sous-chef Joni Hill (ex-Balboa Restaurant).
Eddie Kerkhofs is back as co-owner, with new partners
Ronald Tutor and David Bergstein
| Urth Caffé owners Shallom and
Jilla Berkman opened a second location on the
site of the former Chadwick Restaurant in Beverly
Hills. The kitchen has been remodeled as the central
pastry kitchen for new executive pastry chef Camal
El Sherifi. Executive chef Sal Calderone operates
out of a downtown commissary
| Gaucho Grill founder Adolfo Suaya has
joined forces with executive chef Ryu Hamada and
Elaine Johnston (Zen Grills) to open the upscale,
pan-Asian Zen Grill and Sake Lounge in Westwood
Village | Kansas
City barbecue authority and mechanic Bob Krauss
(a.k.a. Smokin’ Jack) has opened the full-service
restaurant Smokin’ Jacks Kansas City Barbeque,
next to the beach in Carpinteria in Burbank. Specialties
of the pit are deep-fried pickles and a porterhouse
pork chop, slow-smoked with hickory and pecan
woods | boe
is an acronym for Bacchus, Orpheus, and Epicurus.
It’s also the indoor/outdoor restaurant
in the new 40-room The Crescent in Beverly Hills.
Former criminal lawyer Max Schlutz (Where’s
Max? caterers) is executive chef and co-owner
| Third-generation
restaurateur Blair Salisbury (El Cholo, Pasadena)
has opened Ambiente, an upscale Caribbean restaurant
in Alhambra. Aleccio Leon (ex-El Cholo) heads
the kitchen |
Chef/proprietor Corrado Gianotti (ex-Naples
Pizzeria) is back in the limelight with La Fontana
Ristorante Italiano in Huntington Beach
| Melissa’s and World Variety Produce,
the leading West Coast supplier of specialty produce,
has opened a research and test kitchen under executive
chef Ida Rodriguez
| Mum’s, the first upscale restaurant
on Long Beach’s gentrified Pine Avenue restaurant
row, is about to fade out. Veteran restaurateur
and local curmudgeon John Morris has sold the
restaurant to topless dance club impresario Jerry
Westlund. Westlund plans to convert Mums to a
Mexican restaurant with dancing (but what kind?)
| After
opening to fanfare in 1999, Reign has closed in
Beverly Hills. NFL standout Keyshawn Johnson sold
the Southern supper club late last year, and it
seemed to lose direction thereafter
| The new Indian Casinos are adding to
the vitality of the dining out scene in Palm Springs.
La Jolla restaurateur Sami Ladeki (Sammy’s
Woodfired Pizza) has opened his second Roppongi
restaurant and an adjacent Asian Noodle Bar in
the Spa Resort and Casino. Keith Lord (ex-Twentieth
Century-Fox Studio’s Commissary) is executing
the exotic Asian fusion cuisine.
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| NEW
YORK
Vino e Cucina 2003: The Italian
Food and Wine Event of the Year on November 11,
7 to 10 pm, General Admission, 200 Fifth Avenue
Club (at 23rd Street). A memorable evening of
exquisite Italian food and wine will be hosted
by GRI, an association of Italian chefs and restaurateurs
in the US, and Gourmet Magazine Wine Consultant
Michael Green on November 11 in New York. Guests
will sample over 90 Italian wines and food from
16 of the best Italian restaurants in the country,
including Beppe, Galileo, Valentino, Barbetta,
San Domenico NY and more. There will be a live
auction of Italian wines, trips, luxury products,
and special dinners to raise money for GRI scholarships
for American culinary students to learn and work
in Italy. To Purchase Tickets, call (212) 262-2128
or visit www.gruppo.com. $75 advance ticket price
includes all food and wine tastings, the auction
with Michael Green and a donation to GRI's culinary
scholarships. ($90 at the door.)
| New kid on the block. Tom Valenti,
chef of the perpetually popular Upper West Side
bistro Ouest, and partner Godfrey Polistina have
added ’Cesca to the neighborhood. Polistina’s
daughter Francesca is the namesake. Chef de cuisine
Amanda Freitag will oversee the Italian-inspired
fare, such as parmesan fritters and goat cheese
linguine with house-cured tuna, olives, and pepperoncini
| Mark
Strausman, who recently closed Campagna and was
consulting about town, has come full circle. He’s
back with Pino Luongo, who gave him his start
at Sapore di Mare in East Hampton 15 years ago.
The mission? To reconfigure the food at Coco Pazzo
on the Upper East Side, not to be confused with
Coco Pazzo Teatro in the Theater District’s
Time Hotel, which Luongo no longer owns
| Passing the torch. Henry Meer has sold
the Cub Room in SoHo to Shimon Pariente. Meer
will continue to consult on the menu for the next
few months, presumably to facilitate the transition
of new chef Benjamin Grossman
| The venerable Vesuvio Bakery, which has
been tempting SoHo patrons since the 1920s with
its superb Italian bread, has gotten a face-lift.
The new owners have retained the light fixtures
and exterior and continue to pile loaves of bread
in the window, but the interior now boasts new
seats and a cafe menu that ranges from frittatas
and panini to wraps
| Mix, Alain Ducasse’s first casual
New York restaurant, opened in September in Midtown.
Ducasse tapped Doug Psaltis, a New Yorker who
worked his way up in Ducasse’s kitchens,
to run the show. Ducasse’s partner in the
venture is mega-restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow
(China Grill, Rocco’s on 22nd Street). The
menu focuses on indulgent comfort food from both
America and France, including bison pot-au-feu,
mac & cheese, and chocolate pizza. The quirkiest
touch may be the peanut butter and jelly bread
service at the start of each meal
| Steve Hanson, who enticed New Yorkers
with Ruby Foo’s, Blue Fin, and Dos Caminos,
among others, is at it again. He’s planning
to open Fiamma’s casual cousin, Vento Trattoria,
this month in the Meatpacking District. Hanson
also just opened his first out-of-city outpost,
Fiamma Trattoria in Las Vegas’s MGM Grand
| Same
neighborhood. Another restaurant. Chef Zakary
Pelaccio (ex-Williamsburg’s Chickenbone
Café) is to unveil 5 Ninth later this fall.
Housed in a three-story brownstone in the Meatpacking
District of the same vintage as the Beard House,
5 Ninth is the brainchild of Vincent Seufert,
a former Rhone partner; Joel Michel, recent GM
of Pastis; and bon vivant Rick Camac. Expect a
delicious menu of international components and
intriguing combinations
| Michael Huynh, the chef behind the sophisticated
Vietnamese cooking at Bao 111 in the East Village,
has opened Bao Noodles, a casual noodle and soup
shop Gramercy with an inexpensive prix fixe, family-style
menu | James
Beard Foundation Award winner Galen Zamarra was
last seen two years ago turning out spectacular
food at Bouley Bakery in Tribeca. Now, Bouley
Bakery is simply Bouley. And Zamarra? He’s
back with a restaurant of his own. Next month
he plans to open Mas in Greenwich Village with
partners Tom Wilson, former bar manager of Nice
Matin; and Hugh Crickmore, ex-sommelier of Marseille.
Mas will feature seasonal French-American cooking
in the former Isla space
| Speaking of “whatever happened
to…?,” Asian fusion rides again at
the hand of much-missed New York favorite Gary
Robins, who made a big impression at Aja and Match.
He’s surfaced in Chelsea at the Biltmore
Room, which features marble from the old Biltmore
Hotel near Grand Central Terminal. Expect modern
dishes like crab in yuzu-watermelon gelée
| The Beard
House welcomes Sumile to the neighborhood. If
you stand on your tiptoes in our garden, you might
get a whiff of the mostly Japanese cooking just
beyond the fence. Chef Josh Dechellis honed his
skills in the toniest of eateries (Arpège,
Lucas Carton, Postrio), but his menu, with items
such as Kumamoto oysters with pineapple vinegar,
and poached hamachi with pickled melon and nori,
will be decidedly easy on the wallet
| Chef shuffle. Daniel Boulud has appointed
Beard Award winner Jean-François Bruel
as executive chef of Daniel. Bruel replaces longtime
chef Alex Lee, who departed this summer. No replacement
has yet been named to fill Bruel’s spot
at db bistro moderne
| Keith McNally, who brought us Balthazar
and Pastis, has selected the Lower East Side for
his newest venture, Schiller’s Liquor Bar.
The decor maintains McNally’s signature
antique mishmash style. The menu pays tribute
to the area’s Jewish roots with kasha varnishkes,
herring, and chopped liver mousse, but also offers
casual international foods like fish and chips,
Welsh rabbit, and Cubano sandwiches
| Marco Canora, who was in charge of Craft
and Craftbar under Tom Colicchio, is going out
on his own. He’s partnered with former Gramercy
Tavern beverage manager Paul Grieco to open Hearth
in the East Village, serving American and Italian
specialties |
Uncle Jack’s Steak House in Queens
is bringing its Kobe beef reputation to Manhattan
this month with a second location, near Madison
Square Garden
| Meanwhile, an outpost of Bobby Van’s
Steakhouse has opened in Midtown in the former
Della Femina space
| Jewel Bako owners Grace and Jack Lamb
are opening Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar across
the street in the East Village. Alain Ducasse
alum Allison Vines will prepare pricey prix-fixe
dinners in an intimate dining room above the bar
| Not your
ordinary can of tuna. Sample Conservas is a new
restaurant concept in Boerum Hill, from partners
Josh Cohen and Maio Martinez, who own Biscuit,
also in Brooklyn. They modeled the new venture
on an eatery in Barcelona. The food, all of it
a dizzying array of international canned and preserved
delicacies, is served in delicious combinations.
Consulting sommelier Roger Dagorn has assembled
an eclectic list of wines and sakes to match
| We reported on Sara Jenkins’s departure
from the tiny Patio Dining earlier this summer.
But we’re happier to report that the East
Village kitchen has been quietly buzzing with
the intense cooking of chef Eric Korsh. A Picholine
alum, Korsh delivers a sophisticated greenmarket
menu offering such dishes as butter-poached lobster
with late-summer corn purée, or young pheasant
cooked two ways with caramelized Brussels sprouts
| Pippa
Calland, who departed from Pino Luongo’s
Le Madri in September, is busy with the construction
of her own restaurant, Lingua. The Tribeca eatery
will feature oversize tables, a wood-burning oven,
100 wines by the glass, and a decidedly Italian
menu. She’s partnering with Frank Laruffa
and Ennio Sorgini
| Paradise Lost. Native New Yorker Ian
Russo, formerly chef of Pelago in New York and,
most recently, of Michel’s Restaurant on
the island of Oahu in Hawaii, is converting Andiamo
on the Upper East Side to Ian. Scheduled to open
in early winter, the moderately priced, mid-size
restaurant will serve an eclectic seasonal American
menu for dinner only
| Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club, a sumptuous
“preferred guest” eatery on the Upper
East Side has a new chef. For a time, Juan Cuevas
was acting chef, stepping in for opening chef
Richard Farnabe. Now Paris-born, New York–bred
Andrew Karasz is running the kitchen. His previous
credits include Postrio, Auberge du Soleil, and
Union Pacific.
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| SAN
DIEGO
They do the dishes, right? El Bizcocho
at the Rancho Bernardo Inn is offering “custom
cuisine.” Guests submit their choice of
dishes to the restaurant 48 hours in advance.
The mastermind is chef de cuisine Patrick Ponsaty
| The popular
Jim Phillips has left East County’s Bernardo’s
for coastal Del Mar, where he has taken up residence
at Jeffrey Strauss’s Pamplemousse
| Pectopah Pomegranate, San Diego’s
first restaurant serving Russian/Georgian cuisine,
has opened in North Park. The owners are Marko
Zhukov and Jon Skorepa
| Tango Mango is the new Mexican hot spot
in downtown’s Horton Plaza. Tourists love
the big windows for people-watching
| Escondido’s 150 Grand Cafe has
opened The Back Room Lounge. Located behind the
dining room, the lounge serves drinks, appetizers,
coffee, and desserts for the theater and movie
crowd. Executive chef Carlton Greenawalt is the
brains behind the concept and menu
| Baja California’s Laja restaurant
in the grape-growing Guadelupe Valley is drawing
huge crowds from across the border. Chef/owner
Jaair Tellez is wowing customers with his innovative
global cuisine, served in a glorious room in the
middle of a vineyard
| Also making Mexican waves is Manzanilla
in downtown Ensenada. The cuisine is eclectic,
and the wine list has offerings not usually found
in local wine shops.
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| SAN
FRANCISCO
Todd Kniess (Bistro Liaison in Berkeley)
and John Skaggs have taken over the Cypress Club
space and will reopen it as 500 Jackson. Robert
Murphy (ex-Restaurant LuLu) will be the chef de
cuisine of the restaurant, named after its address.
Designer Shawn E. Hall plans to add large warehouse
windows and cobalt blue walls
| Spectrum Restaurant Group (Guaymas, Prego)
morphed the veteran Spiedini in Walnut Creek into
another Prego
| We’ve been talking for a while
about former Aqua chef Michael Mina penning a
deal with the Westin St. Francis hotel to open
a restaurant in the Compass Rose space. Perhaps
Mina’s enthusiasm got the best of us, but
the word from hotel GM Joe Berger is that the
parties are still in negotiation. One thing is
for sure, though. Mina’s Seablue is set
to open in the MGM Grand in Las Vegas at the end
of October | At
the Ritz-Carlton, Celine Plano has been named
executive pastry chef, a first for a woman at
the hotel.
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| TOKYO
Satoshi Kimishima (Goutte d’Or,
Les Cras) has teamed up with Yoshinari Kuratani
(ex-Crattini) to open Goutte d’Or Crattini
in Nishi-Azabu, serving rustic Italian food
| Classic bistro Bistrot Ideale has opened
in Kagurazaka, under Yasuhiro Kuroiwa
| The half-basement space where Bar Radio
used to be in Harajuku is now occupied by Binimaru,
offering 50 Belgian beers and hearty Belgian fare.
Owner Kimiya Nosaka was previously a chef and
manager at Bruxelles
| Meanwhile, the oldest beer restaurant
in Japan, Levante, has moved from Yurakucho Station
to Tokyo International Forum
| Kinji Fukuda mixes Japanese standards
with his own creations at Mikuri Kurumaya, atop
the sleek new Royal Park Shiodome Tower near Shimbashi
| Takamasa
Uetake of Canoviano has opened Dolceria Laune
Cafe in Omotesando. Desserts include vegetables
in season, such as edamame blancmange, or tomato
mousse with asparagus gelato garnished with a
crisp twist of zucchini
| Zats Burger Café serves a “Sasebo
burger” in Nakano. The bacon cheeseburger
is handmade with 100 percent Japanese beef, thick-cut
bacon from Kagoshima, and cheddar on additive-free
buns.
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| TORONTO
Underground. Sotto Sotto chef Felice
Vacca is opening his own restaurant in the former
Blues on Bellair space in Yorkville, a downstairs
spot just like the family business he recently
left. Sotto Sotto owner and head chef is his older
sister Marisa Rocco. She’s not replacing
him in the kitchen. “I taught him all the
food. He was ready to move on,” Rocco says
| Husband-and-wife
team Johnny K. and Laura Prentice have sold their
restaurants, Lolita’s Lust and Gus. The
new owner is caterer Sam Scanga. Scanga has reworked
Gus into Sage, promoting Gino Fracarlis to executive
chef and changing the Greek menu. There are no
plans to change Lolita’s Lust on the Danforth.
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| WASHINGTON,
D.C.
14th Annual Holiday Wine Expo - Washington D.C.
TASTE over 400 WINES - everything from high-end 2000 Bordeauxs and California Boutiques to Champagnes and Dessert Wines – all priced at special discounts. The Wyndham Washington, D.C. Hotel,
1400 M Street, NW, hotel garage parking, closest Metro is McPherson Square, November 22nd, 2003
1:00PM to 5:00PM. Call 202-244-3700 or go to tastedc.com.
| Lucky number. Franco Nuchese (Café
Milano) plans to open Sette pizzeria in the former
Janus Theater. Managing partner Michael Credico
will oversee Sette
| The Mediterranean bistro Cilantro takes
over the Georgetown site that used to house Firehook
Bakery. The owners are Ghaleb Ghaleb and his fiancée,
Cathy Abi-Khattar.
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OTHER
OUTPOSTS
LAS VEGAS
Los Angeles’ consummate host for 30 years,
Piero Selvaggio (Valentino and Posto) is looking
to double his luck in Las Vegas with executive
chef/partner Luciano Pellegrini (Valentino Las
Vegas in the Venetian Resort) and the opening
of Caffé Giorgio on the Strip in new Mandalay
Place. Caffé Giorgio is the anchor restaurant
of this major expansion to the Mandalay Bay Resort.
The 13,000-square foot space features a grab-and-go
deli with an antipasto bar, pizza oven, and gelateria.
A trattoria under chef Nico Chessa (ex-Valentino
Las Vegas), an Italian glass bar with seating,
and several private party rooms round out the
space. Caffé Giorgio will have access to
the wine collection of Valentino, reported to
be the deepest in the West.
SEATTLE
The StarChefs Rising Stars Revue is coming to
Seattle. The gala tasting will take place at the
Hotel Monaco at 7 pm on November 6. Don't miss
the last Rising Stars Revue of the year, featuring
ten of Seattle's rising star chefs preparing signature
dishes with the finest ingredients. Tickets are
$60. JobFinder Seminar is free (visit
us for more info).
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