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June 2003
| >> BOSTON
Sea change. Atlantic 101 on the
waterfront has changed its name and upscale seafood
concept to the more comfortable Living Room lounge,
now offering plump couches and specialty martinis.
Larry Dunn (ex-Cheesecake Factory) serves comfort
food. Proprietor John Hauck said he redesigned
the Atlantic Street restaurant after holding focus
groups with neighborhood residents | At Harvest,
executive chef Eric Brennan is finally back after
a long bout with back trouble. Fortunately, he
had three sous-chefs to keep the pot boiling |
Legal Sea Foods will open another restaurant,
this one in the space of the former Giannino’s,
behind the Charles Hotel |
The Spinazzola Gala Festival of Food and Wine
raised more than $600,000 to fight hunger via
grants to hunger relief agencies, programs for
the homeless, culinary apprenticeships, and scholarships
| New York–style sandwiches are on the menu
at Michael’s Deli, (formerly Tealuxe), on
Harvard Street in Coolidge Corner, Brookline.
Owner Michael Sobelman, who for nearly 20 years
ran the Marblehead supermarket Michael’s,
came out of retirement to sell kosher-style deli
standards | The owners of Bombay Club in Cambridge
recently opened Curry Leaf Indian Kitchen, (formerly
Go Fish), in Sherwood Plaza on Route 9 in Natick
| Paris Crêperie has opened a second location
on Cambridge Street near Beacon Hill. Modeled
after street stalls in France, the restaurant
offers crêpes with a variety of fillings.
A coffee bar dispenses the restaurant’s
Nutella hot chocolate | After obtaining a full
liquor license, Claremont Café transformed
its second dining room into Lush, a cocktail lounge
with a late-night menu. Co-owner Paula Spina said
she hopes to have a fondue menu.
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| >> HOUSTON
Youssef Nafaa plans to open
Cava Bistro in the historic Main Street building
that was previously home to Osteria D’Aldo
| Chef Jonathan Jones has become executive chef
at Riviera Grill. Randy Rucher, a Johnson &
Wales graduate, is his chef de cuisine | Executive
chef Matthew Maroni has left Sienna Plantation
to work in the kitchens at Castello Banfi in Italy
for three months | Giancarlo Ferrara is the new
chef de cuisine at Arcodoro | Downtown, Bossa
now has Trevor White (ex-Fog City Diner in San
Francisco) in the kitchen | From Cafe Annie, longtime
waiter Victor Ventura has landed at Bistro Le
Cep, while sommelier Paul Roberts is leaving to
run the wine program at The French Laundry and
Bouchon in Napa | Luis Rodriguez is chef de cuisine
at Guerin’s Cellar and Guerin’s Bistro.
For the past two years, Rodriguez was with Wyndham
Hotels in the Caribbean. Before that, he was at
River Oaks Grill.
^ |
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| >> LOS
ANGELES
Enter the Drago. Celestino
Drago (Celestino, Drago, Il Pastaio, Celestino’s
Italian Steakhouse) is opening Enoteca Drago on
North Cañon in Beverly Hills. The Italian
tapas restaurant and deli, featuring Drago’s
own baked goods, replaces La Scala, which moved
up the street. The restaurant also offers breakfast
| Tim and Liza Goodell (Aubergine, Red Pearl Kitchen,
Whist, Troquet) have gone to the desert to open
Citron inside the revamped 1930s garden hotel
Estrella in Palm Springs. The French-accented
modern California menu by chef de cuisine Jose
Espinoza, a longtime collaborator, features seared
foie gras with spiced kumquats and fried scallions,
and roasted monkfish bouillabaisse | Balboa Bay
Club & Resort, a 55-year-old landmark in Newport
Beach, is opening First Cabin, a fine-dining room,
as part of a $65 million expansion. Josef Lageder
(La Costa Resort & Spa, The Ritz-Carlton)
will join soon-to-retire chef Jean-Pierre Eigenheer
as co-executive chef | Govind Armstrong (ex-Chadwick,
Campanile) is now executive chef and partner at
the new Table 8 on Beverly Boulevard | Handy Hans.
Hans Röckenwagner is his own carpenter and
designer in a total rebuild of Röckenwagner
in Santa Monica after 18 years. The new configuration
includes an 80-seat brasserie and a 20-seat formal
dining room. The new culinary team features chef
de cuisine Colby Garrelts and pastry chef Megan
Schultz | St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort &
Spa in Dana Point has opened Motif. Small plates
by Azmin Ghahreman include tandoori lamb chops,
beef cheek ravioli, mini steak Diane, and lobster
lemon martini | Bristol Palms California Bistro
& Bar is a soup-to-nuts renovation at the
Costa Mesa Hilton near South Coast Plaza. Chef
Jan Pfeiffer moves in from a key slot under the
noted Anaheim Hilton top toque Freddy Menzinga,
and the menus range from udon to veal cordon bleu
| Frenchy’s Bistro in Long Beach has expanded
in the past, but when the adjacent space became
available, owners Andre and Valerie Angles decided
on a new and more casual approach. Their Zan Zibar
& Grill kept the wooden booths and paper plates
of the former hash house but upgraded the food,
such as tarte Tatin (by pastry chef Lisa Esslinger)
instead of apple pie | Douglas Dodd (ex-Phoenician,
Aspen’s Little Nell) has settled into the
kitchen at Hotel Bel Air | After two and a half
years at Anaheim’s Downtown Disney, the
La Brea Bakery Cafe has found a second home in
Redondo Beach; it will emphasize retail bread
sales | In a sign of tight times, Robert Mondavi
Wine and Food Center in Costa Mesa plans to lay
off its culinary and programming staff of 24 at
the end of the month. Local winery sales staff
will remain, and the banquet facilities will be
leased for special events.
^ |
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| >> NEW
ORLEANS
Ode to Joy. Behind every good executive
chef is a sous-chef...and a pastry chef. “Bingo”
Starr, formerly of Restaurant Cuvée, has
hired Joy Jessup as pastry chef of the new establishment
he is planning. Jessup used to teach at the CIA’s
Greystone campus. She will make cakes and pastries
for René Bajeux’s René Bistrot,
as well as for the new restaurant
| Vy Banh has taken over the late, lamented
Café Indo in Mid-City for the third branch
of her popular Pho Tau Bay restaurant
| Corbin Evans (ex-Susan Spicer’s
Bayona) first opened Lulu’s as a breakfast
and lunch place, serving dinner on weekends only.
Now he is opening Lulu’s on the Avenue in
the Garden District Hotel on St. Charles Avenue.
^ |
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| >> NEW
YORK
The 49th Annual Fancy Food and Confection Show comes
to New York, June 29-July 1 at the Jacob Javitz Center. Presneted by the
National Association for Specialty Food Trade. For information go to
www.fancyfoodshows.com or call 212/482-6440, ext 250 | Adieu. Lespinasse at the
St. Regis Hotel has closed. The top-rated French
dining room put Gray Kunz on the culinary map
and gave his successor, Christian Delouvrier,
a sumptuous showcase. No plans have been announced
for the space | West Village epicures hardly had
a moment to mourn the closing of Balducci’s
(FYI, James Beard used to shop there) before Citarella
took over lox, stocks, and barrel. The once cramped,
dark space has been transformed, and the fish
display alone is worth the trip. Expansion is
part of a master plan that will see another Citarella
opening in Harlem later this year | Act of genius
or folly? You decide. Rice to Riches is a new,
space-age take-out shop in Soho. The brainchild
of owner Pete Moceo and pastry chef Jemal Edwards
(recently of The Four Seasons, San Francisco),
the restaurant serves nothing but rice pudding.
It comes in 19 curiously named flavors like Strawberry
Floozy, Stubborn Banana with Coconut, Pineapple
Payoff with Basil, and the “classic”
Understanding Vanilla. What would grandma think?
| Good things do come in small packages.
Ara, a tiny jewel box of a wine bar, has opened
in the Meatpacking District. The name is an acronym
of the owners: Ananda, Rehana, and Ari Ellis.
Their exotic heritage (East Indian, Russian, Romanian)
provides inspiration for the colorful bohemian
decor. Joshua Wesson, wine expert and co-founder/owner
of Best Cellars, oversees a small yet versatile
wine list. Wine-friendly tapas and a signature
line of chocolates and pots de fruit from pastry
chef Jehangir Mehta (Aix) round out the menu |
An American Place has resurfaced in an unlikely
setting. The seminal 20-year-old restaurant has
gone through several incarnations; the latest
is on the fifth floor of the Lord & Taylor
department store. The menu boasts some of Larry
Forgione’s signature dishes, including lobster
corn chowder and banana betty. Forgione’s
two sons, Marc and Bryan, are cooking with their
famous dad | The Upper East Side must have a giant
collective sweet tooth, what with Fauchon, Payard
Pâtisserie, and Maison du Chocolat doling
out napoleons and macaroons. Now, Mondrian Pastry
joins the ranks. Master pâtissier Michel
Willaume opened a branch last year in tony Great
Neck, Long Island. Recently he opened a sleek
offshoot on Third Avenue near 61st Street. The
elaborate pastries are named for artists, such
as the Rodin, which combines applesauce, apple
confit, almond sponge, macerated raisins, and
hazelnut praline cream. It’s art you can
eat | The success of Morrell Wine Bar & Café
in Rockefeller Center has prompted owners Nikos
Antonakeas and Peter and Roberta Morrell to launch
their ambitious new undertaking—the big,
bold, and beautiful Morrells Restaurant. Located
in a landmark Stanford White building on Broadway
in the Flatiron district, the restaurant includes
a 46-seat wine bar, a 100-seat restaurant, and
M Boutique, which sells wine-related gifts. Diners
can enjoy a staggering 150 wines-by-the-glass
program with wine-rich dishes by chef Michael
Haimowitz, like Champagne fricassée of
lobster, or herb crêpes with roasted rabbit,
chanterelles, coriander, and Pinot Noir syrup.
Pastry chef Victoria Burghi follows suit with
a flight of dessert-wine ice creams. Morrells
is likely to give its serious wine neighbor, Veritas,
a run for its money | Restaurateurs often commission
exclusive wines for their establishments, but
Home restaurant owners Barbara Shinn and David
Page have taken that concept to a whole new level.
Five years ago, they bought land on the North
Fork of Long Island and started a winery, Shinn
Vineyard. In the ensuing years, they’ve
split their time between running their restaurant,
which celebrated its tenth anniversary this spring,
and establishing their vineyard. Now, they’ve
picked their first harvest. Sneak peek tastes
are available at Home, in the West Village | John
Villa, chef/owner of Pico in Tribeca, has come
on board to freshen up Patroon | Movin’
on up. Charlie Palmer transformed Alva into Kitchen
22, serving robust contemporary American food
like roast chicken with porcini risotto at a very
gentle fixed price. Now he’s taking the
$25 prix fixe formula uptown with the opening
of Kitchen 82. The wines are equally affordable
| Lower East Side wunderkind Wylie Dufresne spent
well over a year experimenting in his kitchen,
which he dubbed the “funk tank.” Now,
the legions of diners who once flocked to his
71 Clinton Fresh Foods (he’s no longer involved)
can resume their routine. His new restaurant,
WD-50, is just up the street from his old address.
Pastry chef Sam Mason, formerly of Atlas and Palladin,
puts his spin on the cerebral, imaginative, seasonal
American menu | Another newcomer to trendy Clinton
Street is Chubo, with an international menu of
Latin, Asian, and French flavors. Claude Chassagne
(ex-Black Sheep and Montparnasse) draws in crowds
with a $24 prix fixe menu and a BYOB attitude
| Say (Artisanal) Cheese (Center). As of press
time, Terrance Brennan, chef/proprietor of acclaimed
New York restaurants Picholine, Artisanal, and
Terrance Brennan’s Seafood and Chop House,
was set to unveil his most ambitious project to
date. The Artisanal Cheese Center, a 10,000-square-foot
facility in the Garment District, will feature
state-of-the-art aging cheese “caves,”
a demonstration kitchen and classroom, and a wholesale
and retail cheese business | Take me to the Riviera.
Andy D’Amico, a veteran of Sign of the Dove
and Arizona 206, is now at the cheerful Nice Matin,
named for the Provençal daily newspaper
and featuring the coastal flavors of Provence.
His partner, Simon Oren, also owns Marseille |
Add another brasserie to the pot. Larry Kolar
(ex-Commune, Commissary, and Bolivar) looks to
Brittany for inspiration at the recently re-tuned
Maison in Midtown, previously Brasserie Central.
The menu celebrates sweet and savory crêpes
(a specialty of the region) as well as towering
plateaux of fruits de mer | It took a little more
than magic for Tom Colicchio to open ’wichcraft
in May in the space next to Craftbar and Craft.
Chef Sisha Ortuzar, previously at Gramercy Tavern
and Craft, will put a spell on you with breakfast
and lunch sandwiches such as the white anchovy,
egg, frisée, and salsa verde panino. Craft
and Craftbar pastry chef Karen DeMasco contributes
the pastries. Colicchio’s line of imported
olive oils, condiments, and specialty items is
also available. | Paul Liebrandt, the British
maverick who teased our palates at Atlas and later
at Papillon, is now in the kitchen at Chez Es
Saada, Steve Tzolis’s Moroccan restaurant.
Liebrandt serves up delicious, albeit tamer, dishes
like roasted beets with horseradish cream, and
filet mignon with harissa | In Chelsea, Tzolis
has partnered with chef Gerry Hayden, most recently
of Aureole, to reinvent the former Tonic as Amuse.
The menu is divided into $5, $10, $15, and $20
categories meant to encourage mixing and matching
among items like ham and cheese gougères,
roasted cod and potato cakes, and an apple beignet
with maple walnut ice cream, the last from pastry
chef Gilat Bennett..
^ |
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| >> PARIS
Chef Yannick Alleno will
be leaving Les Muses in the Hôtel Scribe
this summer to take over the kitchens at the Hôtel
Meurice in September. Alleno previously worked
at Le Meurice from 1992 to 1994 | Café
Signes, the city’s first restaurant devoted
to employing and catering to the hearing impaired,
has opened in the 14th arrondissement | Jean-Pierre
Vigato (Apicius) is considering teaming up with
film director Luc Besson to open a restaurant
in the 8th. Besson is already involved in Jean-Georges
Vongerichten’s Market | Le Café de
la Paix has opened in the Intercontinental Le
Grand Hôtel Paris, after 18 months and £150
million of renovations | Award-winning chef Fung
Chin Chen, known for his innovative use of French
products in Chinese cuisine at his restaurant
Au Soleil d’Est, died of cancer on April
21.
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| >> PITTSBURGH
His name is his game. Executive
chef Frederick Panfil (ex-Steelhead Grill, The
Duquesne Club) takes over the kitchen at Vendetta
Dolci, on the South Side. He replaces veteran
chef Johann Meinke, who’s moved on to Il
Pizzaiolo in Mt. Lebanon | New owner Marvin Kantoric
has reopened the long-closed Brass Duck, a landmark
restaurant in Stahlstown. Executive chef Chuck
Zavolta does a Continental menu with seafood and
duck, naturally | Pasta Piatto, for 22 years a
mainstay Northern Italian restaurant in Shadyside,
has closed | Tony Masci has shuttered Cedar House
in Oakdale | Alain and Susan Pizzutti (Le Perroquet,
Manhattan’s Le Clown) have transformed Bellini
into Eno, a casual panini and wine bar | Mark
Swormley has been promoted from sous-chef to executive
chef at The Carlton, Downtown | Hanson Cho, previously
at Soba and The Duquesne Club, is now sous-chef
at Blue | Eric Wallace (ex-Kaya) replaced Heath
Miles as executive chef of Casbah. Kevin Sousa
stepped up to Kaya’s executive chef position
| Kristie De Mailo has opened Café Kolache
and is serving Czech and Slovak pastries | David
Kadagishvili (“Chef Dato”), an immigrant
from the former Soviet republic of Georgia and
a CIA grad, joins executive chef Mark Henry at
Mountain View Inn in Greensburg | North Shore
Entertainment Group has opened a trio of restaurants
next to baseball’s PNC Park: Irish pub Finnegan’s
Wake, Tango’s Martini Bar, and Bella’s
North Shore Grill.
^ |
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| >> SAN
DIEGO
Augie Saucedo is the new
chef de cuisine at the Shores Restaurant in the
Sea Lodge Hotel in La Jolla. He replaces Kevin
Takei. Saucedo comes from Shelter Point Hotel
& Marina | San Diego has finally come to grips
with its late-night downtown crowd. The Gaslamp’s
Marketplace Grille is now open until 3:00 a.m.
on weekends | Galileo 101 has opened in the west
tower of downtown’s Harbor Club, with chef
James Hafner | Jonna Talbott has left as director
of the Macy’s School of Cooking and moved
to Great News, a shop and cooking school in Pacific
Beach. Mike Wallace (no, not that one) will replace
her at Macy’s.
^ |
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| >> SAN
FRANCISCO
Banging Humm’s drum.
Daniele Humm, a 27-year-old chef at the Michelin-starred
Zum Gupf in Rehetobel, Switzerland, is the new
chef at the Campton Place Hotel restaurant | Sam
Duvall has opened Habana on Van Ness Avenue. The
menu, from chef Joe Kohn, includes a ceviche bar
| Lapis restaurant at Pier 33 has closed. Chef
Thomas Ricci, who had been one of the city’s
rising stars, has already left town for a job
in Atlanta. The hip Butterfly fusion restaurant
is scheduled to move to the space this month |
Several months ago, Bruno Feldeisen (Solea) took
a fly at the old Oritalia space in the Hotel Juliana
on Bush Street, renaming it Malisa Restaurant
& Lounge. Although he says it was great working
with the managing Kimpton Group, he has closed
the restaurant | Investor Harvey Rifkin plans
to open 2B restaurant in a building he leases
on Second Street, two blocks from Pacific Bell
Park. His chef is Anthony Pizzarello | Cheeseville.
The American Cheese Society (www.cheesesociety.org)
is inviting all cheese lovers to sample more than
450 handmade cheeses at its upcoming annual conference.
The $65 tasting will be held August 2 in the Ferry
Building.
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| >> SEATTLE
Olives and fishes. Todd English
(Olives, Figs) has opened his first West Coast
restaurant, The Fish Club, in the new Seattle
Marriott Waterfront Hotel. Executive chef Chris
Ainsworth (ex-The Dahlia Lounge) prepares classic
fish dishes | Six Seven in the Edgewater Hotel
has moved out, and the high-styled Baleen has
moved in | Paul Mackay (El Gaucho, Waterfront
Seafood Grill) has closed Chez Gus on Pier 70
and reopened it as Rippe’s Steaks, Chops
and Seafood | Jake Reagan has replaced Tom Hollywood
as executive chef of Ponti Seafood Grill.
^ |
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| >> TOKYO
Restaurateur Uichi Morishita
and designer Ichiro Katami have teamed up to open
two restaurant/cafes in quick succession. In the
former Harajuku landmark Cafe de Rope is Montoak,
a sleek bar and lounge overlooking Omotesando
(the Champs-Elysées of Tokyo), with a menu
that borrows from Japan and Italy. Tarlum, near
Yoyogi Koen Station, is a three-floor “aqua
brasserie” that doubles as the entrance
to the apartments above. Dinner focuses on seafood
and oysters | Alain Ducasse’s Japanese outpost
of Spoon Food and Wine has closed | Italian restaurateur
Panzetta Girolamo and Y’s Table have opened
Soba Giro, in the new Prudential Financial center
in Akasaka. The star of the menu? Hot or cold
soba with bocconcini | A branch of Gonpachi izakaya
(pub) has opened atop a new high-rise on Dogenzaka
in Shibuya. The Nishi-Azabu branch was the Japanese
prime minister’s choice for entertaining
U.S. president George W. Bush. Parent company
Global Dining plans a large complex in Ginza Loop
containing all four of their restaurants: Gonpachi,
Cafe La Boheme (Italian), Zest Cantina (Tex-Mex),
and Monsoon (pan-Asian) | Jinro Garden in Shinjuku
has reopened after a face-lift.
^ |
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| >> TORONTO
Exhibit closed. Construction
has forced Jamie Kennedy to close his fine-dining
lunch spot, JK ROM, at the Royal Ontario Museum
downtown. His celebrated frites were edged
out by a new wing designed by Daniel Libeskind.
Kennedy will continue catering from his suburban
commissary, with plans to open his own event space
someday | The intersection of King and Bathurst
Streets continues to grow as a restaurant district.
Newcomers Eau, Blowfish, and Brassaii join culinary
pioneer Susur on the trendy strip | The Rubino
brothers (Zoom, Rain) plan to open Luce restaurant
and Yellow lounge in the new Le Germain boutique
hotel on Mercer Street.
^ |
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| >>
WASHINGTON, D. C.
Irish power. No, not a voting
block, but a fine-dining restaurant. Christy Hughes
(Ireland’s Four Provinces) has bought the
Inn at Glen Echo in Maryland, where he plans to
open The Irish Inn at Glen Echo in July | Peter
Grunfelder (Wurzburg-Haus) has taken over Blue
Ox in Olney. He will keep it running as a Southwestern
restaurant | Frank Morales has moved east—from
The Oval Room near the White House to Zola in
Penn Quarter.
^ |
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| >> OTHER
OUTPOSTS
Las Vegas
Wolfgang von Wieser has left the Four Seasons
Hotel to become executive chef of Bellagio. Jacques
Van Staden has landed at Alizé at the Top
of the Palms, where he is working under André
Rochat.
^ |
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