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| May 2003 |
>> ATLANTA |
| Movin’ on up. After six years, Shaun Doty leaves
downtown for Midtown to open brasserie MidCity Cuisine
in the former Angelo & Maxie’s space on Peachtree
Street. He will close Mumbo Jumbo | Former Buckhead
Life staff have launched Blackstone’s, a steakhouse
and bar on the transitional South Atlanta Road in Cobb | The East Andrews Café (actually on the West
Village side of Buckhead) is expanding into the nearby
and now defunct Celebrity Rock Café with a new
“European-feel” restaurant, bar, and club | John Agri has opened Napa Valley Market and Trattoria
with Brent Shaver as general manager. Rich Bradshaw
prepares the evening menus | Fine-dining Thai restaurant
Nan is under construction in Midtown Heights at 17th
and Spring Streets, a Charlie Niyomkul (Tamarind) project.
Niyomkul’s wife, Nan, is executive chef | Where’s
the beef now? Buckhead’s Bones steakhouse will
lose its front-of-house man of 23 years, Bobby Donlan,
when he becomes managing partner of Donlan & Greenbaum’s
New York Prime, in the former Peachtree Road home of
Chequers seafood.
^ |
>> BOSTON |
| Sea change. Atlantic 101 on the waterfront has changed
its name and upscale seafood concept to the more comfortable
Living Room lounge, now offering plump couches and specialty
martinis. Larry Dunn (ex-Cheesecake Factory) serves
comfort food. Proprietor John Hauck said he redesigned
the Atlantic Street restaurant after holding focus groups
with neighborhood residents | At Harvest, executive
chef Eric Brennan is finally back after a long bout
with back trouble. Fortunately, he had three sous-chefs
to keep the pot boiling | Legal Sea Foods will open
another restaurant, this one in the space of the former
Giannino’s, behind the Charles Hotel | The Spinazzola
Gala Festival of Food and Wine raised more than $600,000
to fight hunger via grants to hunger relief agencies,
programs for the homeless, culinary apprenticeships,
and scholarships | New York–style sandwiches are
on the menu at Michael’s Deli, (formerly Tealuxe),
on Harvard Street in Coolidge Corner, Brookline. Owner
Michael Sobelman, who for nearly 20 years ran the Marblehead
supermarket Michael’s, came out of retirement
to sell kosher-style deli standards | The owners of
Bombay Club in Cambridge recently opened Curry Leaf
Indian Kitchen, (formerly Go Fish), in Sherwood Plaza
on Route 9 in Natick | Paris Crêperie has opened
a second location on Cambridge Street near Beacon Hill.
Modeled after street stalls in France, the restaurant
offers crêpes with a variety of fillings. A coffee
bar dispenses the restaurant’s Nutella hot chocolate | After obtaining a full liquor license, Claremont Café
transformed its second dining room into Lush, a cocktail
lounge with a late-night menu. Co-owner Paula Spina
said she hopes to have a fondue menu.
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CHICAGO |
| Peppery
debut. Restaurateur Jack Weiss (Coco Pazzo, Coco Pazzo
Cafe) has opened Pili.Pili in River North. Featuring
Provençal cooking with other Mediterranean influences,
the eatery is named after the African chile pepper used
to season cooking oils in Provence. Chef François
de Melogue (The Bakery, Ciel Bleu, Le Margaux) serves
such dishes as fish soup, tarte Tatin of artichokes,
wood-roasted pizza, and Moroccan slow-cooked lamb. De
Melogue, who studied under Joël Robuchon in Paris,
was raised in Chicago, but spent his childhood summers
at his grandparents’ home in Marseilles | The
new executive chef at Caliterra in the Wyndham Hotel
is Rick Gresh (ex-Trio, Hotel Nikko, Green Dolphin Street).
Among Gresh’s creations: wild arugula and shaved
fennel salad, napoleon of citrus-cured salmon, black
truffle risotto, and grilled venison loin | Lovitt has
only 26 seats, but that’s just fine for chef/co-owner
Norman Six (Tomboy Blackhawk Lodge). He cooks alone
in his tiny Wicker Park restaurant, and likes to focus
on earthy foods with occasional “exotic flourishes,”
as one critic put it. Examples: profiteroles filled
with crab bisque, house-cured salmon served on nori
with wasabi rice, steak potpie, and tangerine upside-down
cake | Michael J. Pivoney (Carlucci’s) has been
named executive chef of the Signature Room in the John
Hancock Building | Tapas, ensaladas, sopas,
and platos fuertos are the Latin-American menu
offerings of chef Barbara Bell at the newly opened MarySol
in the West Loop. The pastry chef is Sarah Markowitz | Abraham Aguirre (Harry Caray’s, Gianotti’s)
has been snagged as opening chef for Grotto on State
Street.
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LONDON |
| Mas
fino. Fino is not your average tapas bar. The stylish
new Spanish restaurant, with an entrance on Rathbone
Street, is owned by Sam and Eddie Hart, whose family
owns the well-known Hambleton Hall in the country. The
menu is dominated by seafood and invites sharing. The
wine list includes a variety of sherries | L’Etranger
has opened on Gloucester Road, serving New French cuisine
with an Asian accent. Chef Jérôme Tauvron
is from Ozer and previously worked with Alain Ducasse
and Pierre Gagnaire | The Italian restaurant Mosaico
has moved into the Bice space in Mayfair | Bodean’s
is a new rib and barbecue restaurant in Soho owned by
one of the founders of Belgo. This American-style diner
also has a takeaway section | By mutual agreement, the
Vong outpost in The Berkeley hotel has closed. In its
place Gordon Ramsay is opening Boxwood, a cafe-style
restaurant that evokes an English garden. Ramsay and
Marcus Wareing will also open Petrus in the hotel’s
other dining space, formerly La Tante Claire | Meanwhile,
Wareing has taken over Savoy Grill. The new menu reinterprets
Grill classics | Marco Pierre White is opening Whites
in the former City Rhodes space. It will be similar
to his Drones and Mirabelle restaurants | Alastair Little
is no longer involved with his eponymous restaurants
on Frith Street and on Lancaster Road | There is a new
branch of Rocket restaurant at Putney Wharf with river
views | Alain Ducasse’s Spoon+ at Sanderson is
now offering more affordable “SpoonSum”
at lunch | Chives has closed | Maison Novelli is closed,
but will not become a new branch of Chez Max, as we
erroneously reported in the February 2003 Dateline column.
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LOS ANGELES |
|
SensAsian-al.
Martin Yan has a new SensAsian, a clear challenge to
P.F. Chang’s China Bistro’s continued expansion
in California. SensAsian’s first opening was in
Irvine; a second restaurant is coming this summer in
Costa Mesa. The exhibition kitchen will feature frequent
appearances from the telegenic chef, who is working
with Wybridge Holdings, (the largest Kentucky Fried
Chicken franchisee outside of the U.S., based in Hong
Kong) | EM Bistro is a collaboration between chefs Anne
Conness (ex-Alex, Chinois, Campanile) and pastry chef
Natasha MacAller (ex-Union, Charlie Trotter’s
at the MGM Grand, The Greenbrier Inn), and East Coast
restaurateur Charles Nuzzo (The St. Charles Inn in Great
Gorge, New Jersey) | Fat Fish brings Pacific Northwest
seafood savvy and a sushi sensibility to West Hollywood’s
North Robertson Boulevard. Luke Kim and James Han (Sushi
Kudasai in Seattle) and executive chef Truman Jones
(Cascadia, also in Seattle) have thought of the carnivores,
too, with some steak and poultry to round out the pan-Asian
menus | Clubs usually think of food secondarily, but
White Lotus in Hollywood presents accomplished culinarian
Hiroji Obayashi (Hirozen), who fuses Thai, Korean, Chinese,
and Japanese flavors. Corporate executive chef Andrew
Pastore (The Sunset Room, Pig ‘n’ Whistle)
completes the team. | Pete’s Café &
Bar is the latest redevelopment in downtown’s
newly trendy Old Bank District. Bijan Shokatfard (ex-Chez
Melange) offers comfort food par excellence for partners
Pete McLaughlin and Tom Gilmore, a part owner of Cicada
and a downtown developer | Ballona Fish Market, Hans
Röckenwagner’s year-old Marina del Rey seafood
emporium, has a new chef de cuisine in Austrian-born
Wolfgang Gussmack | Joseph Gillard, who opened Nick
& Stef’s Steakhouse for Joachim Splichal downtown,
has moved in at Mirabelle, the perennial see-and-be-seen
spot on the Sunset Strip now under the supervision of
the second generation of Germanides family members | Bruno Chemel, whose many French credentials include
work with Joël Robuchon, has taken charge at Aqua
in the St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort & Spa at Dana
Point | Sweet rewards. Richard Ruskell is a Chocolatier
Magazine Top Ten pick. He’s also pastry chef
at the newly opened Montage Resort & Spa in Laguna
Beach.
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NEW ORLEANS |
|
Change
of Commander’s. Ti Martin, co-owner of Commander’s
Palace and owner of the food market Foodies Kitchen,
is relinquishing her hold on Foodies. She plans to stay
on as a consultant to the new owner, Robert Champagne,
an accountant | Mango House has opened on the Jeannette
Street site of the briefly popular Charleston restaurant.
Chef/owner Anne Lloyd (ex-Gabrielle, Lola’s, Mr.
B’s Bistro) serves Caribbean food | Guillermo
Peters is moving his Taqueros from Roosevelt Boulevard
to trendy St. Charles Avenue. He’s splitting the
Mexican restaurant into two: the casual Taqueros downstairs,
serving authentic Mexico City cuisine; and upstairs,
the more refined Coyoacan.
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NEW YORK |
|
James
Beard Awards Gala on Monday May 4th to Celebrate James
Beard's 100th Birthday. Chefs from across the country will
be in their best black-tie to watch as peers receive awards
for best regional chef, best new restaurant, and more.
| A role he can sink his teeth into. Culinary poster
boy and People magazine’s 2002 Sexiest Chef Alive
Rocco DiSpirito (Union Pacific) will test his acting chops
in a restaurant reality show scheduled to air on NBC this
July. The Restaurant, produced by the creator of the
mega-hit Survivor series, will follow Rocco as he develops
and opens a downtown restaurant. Details remain hush-hush
| Mermaid of the East Village. Dynamic duo Jimmy Bradley
and partner Danny Abrams (Red Cat and The Harrison) have chosen
the East Village as the site for their latest venture, The
Mermaid Inn. Chef Michael Price jumped ship from The Harrison
to oversee the seafood menu. The catch of the day may be the
wine program, which promises marginal markups. Modest sweets
will be offered gratis | A Riingo
a day keeps the doctor away. Riingo, Japanese for “apple,”
is coming soon from the Marcus Samuelsson/Hakan Swahn partnership
that brought us perennial favorite Aquavit. Set to open this
summer in the new Alex hotel on East 45th Street, Riingo will
offer a modern American menu and an unconventional sushi bar
| Parting is such sweet sorrow. Pastry chef Lincoln
Carson has left his post at Todd English’s Olives NY
in the W Union Square Hotel to join superstar restaurateur
Stephen Hanson’s B.R. Guest. In his new job, Carson
will oversee the diverse desserts at a number of B.R. Guest’s
restaurants. His longtime pastry sous-chef, Alfred Stephens,
is to replace him at Olives | Chef
Ivy Stark (ex-Zócalo) is now plying her delectable
Mexican cuisine at Park Avenue South hotspot Dos Caminos.
She replaces Scott Linquist, who packed his knives to open
Dos Caminos Soho | Simpson Wong,
who since 1996 has brought New Yorkers pan-Asian bistro fare
at the popular Café Asean, has added to his roster
the sleek, serene Jefferson. Taking its name from the nearby
Jefferson Square Market and Jefferson Library, the restaurant
serves New American cuisine with Asian touches
| Peter and Penny Glazier have opened Strip House at
the Hotel Westminster, an offshoot of the Manhattan Strip
House. Like the New York original, the new restaurant, which
is in Livingston, New Jersey, resembles a classy bordello;
the walls are covered with photographs of New Jersey–born
celebrities. Chef David Walzog prepares the usual steak suspects,
and just for the fun of it, he throws in haute accompaniments,
like foie gras torchon, fresh linguine with duck confit, and
black truffle creamed spinach | Big
steaks usually come with big price tags. Now MarkJoseph, the
Peter Luger knockoff in the Financial District, has come up
with a modestly priced alternative, MJ Grill. Perfectly charred
sirloin or filet is still the main act
| Commissary, Matthew Kenney’s Upper East Side
eatery, has closed. It was one of the last survivor of a restaurant
empire that once spanned Matthew’s, Commune, Commissary,
and Canteen, among others | Don’t
look for TanDa on Park Avenue South and 24th Street. It has
become Sage, and chef Stanley Wong has dispensed with Asian
accents for bistro fare like steak-frites
| The American Museum of Natural History has set up
a cafeteria in conjunction with its current exhibition “Vietnam:
Journeys of Body, Mind, and Spirit.” Museum-goers can
enjoy summer rolls, sugarcane shrimp, and Vietnamese sandwiches
| Or you can skip the culture thing, and go straight
for the food at two new Vietnamese restaurants, O Mai in Chelsea
and Bao 111 in the East Village. We reported on Bao 111 when
it was Sen; a legal dispute over its name has led to its new
identity. Jean Georges alum Eric Hubert continues to craft
the desserts. Meanwhile, the team behind Cyclo in the East
Village and Nam in Tribeca have opened O Mai
| Park Slope’s Fifth Avenue used to suffer from
a dearth of bistros—what were fans of frites and devotees
of daube de boeuf to do? Fortunately, Moutarde has
unrolled its awning. Arnaud Giberszcajn has turned the old
Mike & Tony’s space into a beautiful bistro with
classic dishes enlivened by rustic French mustards. Enfin!
| Yagur Sheinman, who once imported gold and precious
gems, has opened the opulently gothic Re Sette with chef Alessandro
Sacchetti. Elaborate candelabra and a 26-foot-long “king’s
table” provide a dramatic setting for Sacchetti’s
fig and Gorgonzola pizza, signature grandmother’s Sunday
sauce, and other Italian specialties fired in the wood-burning
oven | Léa is an intimate
wine bar and restaurant from stylish globetrotters Mario Carta
and Mario Verciani. In keeping with the cozy atmosphere, Brazilian-born
chef Aranai Seppi is offering a short menu that includes tapas
and pastas; 50 wines are offered by the glass
| East Village Basque bistro Euzkadi has hired Paul
DiBari, formerly of Daniel, Lenox Room, Balthazar, and Pastis.
His new menu offerings include whole fish a la Plancha and
suckling pig | Atkins en español?
Douglas Rodriguez is cooking at OLA, formerly Chispa, in Turtle
Bay. The ceviche king continues to deliver his signature repertoire
of tapas and ceviches, but in a nod to the high-protein craze
sweeping the city, Rodriguez has added a “pure protein”
section to his menu | Notable
departures: Sara Jenkins has left Patio Dining in the East
Village. Franz Klampfer has retired from his executive chef
post at the Pierre. His replacement is Gerard Madani
| Notable Midtown closings include Christer Larsson’s
eponymous eatery, as well as Cinnabar
| Théo restaurant has closed, too, and truffle
aficionados should take note. Consulting chef Bruno Clément,
owner of the one-Michelin-star Bruno in Provence, is in charge
of the makeover. Bruno, of course, is famous for its black
truffle menus.
^
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PARIS |
|
That’s
the way the macaroon crumbles. As a result of financial
problems, Pierre Hermé has closed his Salon de
Thé in the 8th arrondissement, and his pâtisserie
on rue Bonaparte is expected to close this summer. Hermé’s
partners Hubert Boukobza (Les Bains Douches) and Jean-Luc
Delarue were also involved with Korova restaurant, which
has closed as well. The Bertrand Group has taken over
the Korova space, where they plan to install a traditional
brasserie | Since 1880, diners at La Tour d’Argent
who order duck have gotten a numbered card. Last month,
owner Claude Terrail hosted a special dinner to commemorate
the serving of the one-millionth duck | The closing
of La Véranda on Avenue George V was quickly
followed by the opening of La Suite in the same space.
A fashionable crowd has been frequenting this new restaurant/bar/club,
which serves contemporary French fare in a modern space | Lenôtre is scheduled to open Le Pavillon Elysée
on May 26. The space will consist of a Café Lenôtre
with seating for 120, as well as a take-out counter,
food shop, and cooking school.
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SAN DIEGO |
|
Off-Shores.
Kevin Takei has left The Shores restaurant in La Jolla.
He is moving his family to Vermont for what he hopes
will be a more leisurely lifestyle. No replacement has
been named | Saveur in Hillcrest has closed its doors
for the second time | Entrepreneur Tracy Borkum has
added a gourmet shop next door to her Kensington Grill.
Borkum also owns Chive in the Gaslamp district | Andy
Johnson, longtime chef at Solana Beach’s Pacific
Coast Grill, has moved to The Bridges as executive chef.
Tim Sullivan, formerly of Cilantro’s, Chesapeake,
and Bellefleur, is the new chef | Speaking of Chesapeake,
the large fish house, which aimed to bring better dining
to North County, has closed. Its replacement will be
Mexican.
^
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SAN FRANCISCO |
|
Girl
and the new digs. Restaurateur Sondra Bernstein opened
a second Girl & the Fig on Weller Street in Petaluma.
Last year she moved the first Girl & the Fig from
Glen Ellen to Sonoma so she could open the Girl &
the Gaucho in Glen Ellen. Bernstein’s chef is
John Touloze and the chef de cuisine is Brian Sinnott.
The menu is classic French country with a largely Californian
wine list | Things are changing quickly at Julia’s
Kitchen, the restaurant at COPIA, the American Center
for Wine, Food & the Arts in Napa. Bay Area caterer
McCall Associates turned over the operation to the Patina
Group. Victor Scargle, formerly of the Grand Cafe in
San Francisco, heads up the kitchen | Four-star chef
Michael Mina (Aqua), backed by tennis star Andre Agassi
and a plan from interior designer Barbara Barry, aims
to launch a signature restaurant in the St. Francis
hotel later this year. The restaurant would take over
the Compass Rose space and offer a menu highlighting
fish. Come August, Mina will open a spot in the MGM
Grand in Las Vegas, designed by celebrated New York
designer Adam Tihany. “It will be an interactive
restaurant,” Mina says, meaning that diners can
select the ingredients to be cooked in the completely
open kitchen | Cindy Pawlcyn (Mustards Grill) closed
her Latin-themed Miramonte restaurant in St. Helena
and reopened it as Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen.
The menu takes its theme from the Fog City Diner and
Buckeye Roadhouse, both of which Pawlcyn worked on as
a former partner of the Real Restaurant group.
^
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OTHER OUTPOSTS |
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Nantucket,
MA
From May 13 to 18, the 7th Annual Nantucket Wine Festival
combines world-renowned wines, delicious food, educational
seminars, auctions, and fresh sea breezes on one of the prettiest
islands on the East Coast. For more information, go to www.nantucketwinefestival.com.
^
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