The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 279
 
July 3, 2012
IN THIS ISSUE
1.  Letter from the Editor vol. 89: Particularity in Tokyo
2.  Tokyo Dining Guide: Tradition and Innovation
3.  The Product: Beautifully Bizarre Firefly Squid
4.  Chef Profile: Hideki Ishakawa
5.  Technique: Takazawa Ratatouille Terrine
6.  The Weekly Mix: Quiet Perfectionism at Bar High Five
7.  Inside Staff Meal at Morimoto: Sticking to Tradition
8.  Crush: Riesling and Japanese Modernism
9.  Cookbook Review: Japanese Cuisine by Seiji Yamamoto
10.  Hayden's Heroes: Donate for the Cure
11.  Featured Video: Tsukiji Fish Market
12.  Apply to the 2012 Vitamix Challenge!
13.  Summer's Heating and Speeding Up: Get Your ICC Tickets Now!
14.  Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com's JobFinder
15.  Featured Recipe: Sakizuke: Kakure Ume (Red Sea Bream Milt, Ume, and Horsetail Shoots) from Chef Yoshihiro Murata of Kikunoi - Kyoto, Japan
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Letter from the Editor  1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 89: Particularity in Tokyo
Getting lost (and loving it) in the culinary mosaic of Tokyo's restaurant scene.

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Technique  2. Tokyo Dining Guide: Tradition and Innovation
From kaiseki and sushi to tempura, a guide to Tokyo's gems, both prominent and hidden.

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The Product  3. The Product: Beautifully Bizarre Firefly Squid
Three inches of intensely briny, ocean-fresh, (and blue glowing) squid.

Read More >

Chef Profile  4. Chef Profile: Hideki Ishakawa
The best chef you've never heard of is quietly, respectfully tweaking the traditions of kaiseki.

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Technique  5. Technique: Takazawa Ratatouille Terrine
Cramming the flavors of Provence into one meticulously crafted bite.

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The Weekly Mix  6. The Weekly Mix: Quiet Perfectionism at Bar High Five
Two ingredients, one quiet expert, and the best cocktail we tasted in Tokyo.

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Inside Staff Meal  7. Inside Staff Meal at Morimoto: Sticking to Tradition
The comfort foods and traditions that rally the Iron Chef's hard-working staff.

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Crush  8. Crush: Riesling and Japanese Modernism
L'effervescence, Narisawa, and the exquisite intersection of Tokyo's culinary conceptualism and a beloved cold climate grape.

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Cookbook Review Photo Galleries

 9. Cookbook Review: Japanese Cuisine by Seiji Yamamoto
Exploring traditional ingredients with a philosophical mind.

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Hayden's Heroes  10. Hayden's Heroes: Donate for the Cure
Support Chef Gerry Hayden of North Fork Table as he and all sufferers of ALS look for a cure.

Read More >
Featured Video  11. Featured Video: Tsukiji Fish Market
Drool with envy over the fresh seafood at one of Tokyo's bustling fish markets.

Watch Video >

2012 Vitamix Challenge  12. Submit Your Entry to the 2012 Vitamix Challenge!
Vitamix to victory: send us a blend-friendly recipe for a chance to compete at ICC in the 2012 Vitamix Challenge.

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ICC 2012  13. Summer's Heating and Speeding Up: Get Your ICC Tickets Now!
Mathias Dalgren, Michael Laiskonis, Audrey Saunders, Mario Batali—the list goes on. We’re adding new presenters every day, so secure your special price tickets to the 7th Annual International Chefs Congress now!

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 14. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com's JobFinder

Executive Chef
Bokx 109 American Prime. A new twist on the American Steakhouse
Pyramid Hotel Grp.
Newton, MA

Apply Now >

Chef de Cuisine
Join our Top Flight Restaurant in Bethesda.
Food, Wine & Company
Bethesda, MD

Apply Now >

Pastry Cook
Pastry Cook needed at top 25 Hotel
Capital Hotel
Little Rock, AR

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Product Manager
Company is looking for an Artisanal Pastry Manager
Bay Bread LLC
San Francisco, CA

Apply Now >

Sushi Chefs
Sushi Chefs Sought for Philadelphia based Restaurant
Pod Restaurant
Philadelphia, PA

Apply Now >

Pastry Chef
JBF Award Winning Chef Ken Oringer is Hiring Pastry Chef
Clio Restaurant
Boston, MA

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Executive Sous Chef
ARAMARK is Seeking an Executive Sous Chef for Minute Maid Park
ARAMARK
Houston, TX

Apply Now >

Sous Chef
Oldest continuously family owned Winery in the United States
Wente Vineyards
Livemore Valley, CA

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Chef de Partie
Work for Morimoto in Napa's Wine Country
Morimoto Napa
Napa Valley, CA

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Line Cook
Seeking dedicated, passionate Line Cooks
Daniel Stern Restaurants
Philadelphia, PA

Apply Now >
Steelite 15. Featured Recipe: Sakizuke: Kakure Ume (Red Sea Bream Milt, Ume, and Horsetail Shoots) from Chef Yoshihiro Murata
of Kikunoi - Kyoto, Japan

View it Now >

Adapted by StarChefs.com
May 2012
Yield: 10 servings

INGREDIENTS
Stock A:
800 milliliters Ichiban dashi
4 teaspoons light-colored soy sauce
¾ teaspoon salt

Umeboshi:
200 milliliters dashi
1 teaspoon light colored soy sauce
½ teaspoon mirin
Pinch salt

Shirako Cream:
500 grams sea bream milt
Pinch salt
Sake
Sesame seeds, toasted and ground until smooth

Fried Horsetail Shoots:
Vegetable oil
10 horsetail shoots
Salt

METHOD:
For the Stock A:
In a pot over low heat, combine the dashi and soy sauce. Season with salt.

For the Umeboshi:
With a toothpick or pin, prick the surface of the umeboshi all over. Heat a small pot of water on low heat, and gently simmer the umeboshi to remove the salt. In another pot, combine the umeboshi, Stock A, and bonito flakes. Simmer on low heat until the umeboshi absorb some of the dashi flavor. Remove from the heat, and chill the umeboshi in the stock.

For the Stock B:
In a pot over low heat, combine the dashi, soy sauce, and mirin. Season with salt.

For the Shirako Cream:
Sprinkle the milt with salt and rest for 1 hour. Sprinkle with a little sake, put it in a bowl and cook in a steamer for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool, strain the milt through a fine sieve, and add toasted and ground sesame seeds. Adjust the thickness with a little Stock B and cook in a saucepan over low heat until the cream thickens.

For the Fried Horsetail Shoots:

Heat vegetable oil in deep fryer, and fry the horsetail shoots until just crisp. Remove from fryer and lightly sprinkle with salt.

To Assemble and Serve:
Put the Umeboshi in a small bowl and pour the Shirako Cream over the top. Garnish with a Fried Horsetail Shoot.  

 
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