The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 228
 
February 25, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE
1.  Letter from the Editor Vol. 71: Chicago Then and Now
2.  Technique: Dover Sole Meat Glue
3.  Top Pairs Vol. 15: Foie Gras Wine Pairings from Chicago
4.  Chicago Mixology's Night and Day Transformation
5.  Technique: Umeboshi's American Cousin
6.  Shout It Out: Calling for Chile Recommendations
7.  Act Now to Get Discounted StarChefs.com ICC Passes
8.  The 2011 StarChefs.com International Pastry Competition
9.  Announcing the 2011 Houston Rising Stars!
10.  StarChefs Studio: An Interview with Pastry Chef Johnny Iuzzini
11.  Celebrating Chefocracy: Vote for the Best New Chef!
12.  Photo Galleries from Our Recent Tastings
13.  Featured Video: Jared Van Camp Shows Off His Meat
14.  Featured Cookbook: Amuse-Bouche
15.  Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com's JobFinder
16.  Featured Chef to Know: Gale Gand of Tru - Chicago, IL
17.  Recipe for Giralomo Sour from Mixologist Stephen Cole at The Violet Hour - Chicago, IL
StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit www.starchefs.com

The iSi Whipper: Endless Possibilities
 1. Letter from the Editor Vol. 71: Chicago Then and Now
A culinary update on this big-shouldered, gastropub-lovin', avant-garde, Michelin-starred city.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/letter_from_editor/vol71/2011-Chicago-then-and-now
 2. Technique: Dover Sole Meat Glue
Dirk Flanigan updates a French classic with some back-of-the-house poxy magic.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/studio/techniques/meat-glue-dover-sole-meuniere
 3. Top Pairs Vol. 15: Foie Gras Wine Pairings from Chicago
Estranged lovers reunited: Chicago somms are taking a fresh look at foie gras pairings, Sauternes not required.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/top-pairs/chicago/foie-gras
 4. Chicago Mixology's Night and Day Transformation
From cosmos to cocktailians, Chicago's mixology scene has made some giant leaps for mixo-mankind.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/chicago-mixology-scene
 5. Technique: Umeboshi's American Cousin
Chef Harold Jurado gets piquant with plums at Chizakaya.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/studio/techniques/housemade-umeboshi
 6. Shout It Out: Calling for Chile Recommendations
We're heading to South America to eat, drink, and interview our way through Chile. Send us your recommendations for chefs, restaurants, producers, and wineries! And tell us about your favorite Chilean culinary experience!
http://www.starchefs.com/survey/takesurvey.php?id=141
 7. Act Now to Get Discounted StarChefs.com ICC Passes
Buy your working restaurant pass to the 2011 ICC before March 15 and save!
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/icc/2011
 8. The 2011 StarChefs.com International Pastry Competition
Don't call it a comeback. It's our second year, and we're calling all competitive pastry chefs to register for the bittersweet battle!
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/pastry-competition-2011
 9. Announcing the 2011 Houston Rising Stars!
Succeeding together: The chefs, pastry chefs, mixologist, and sommelier who make Houston one of the warmest, most idiosyncratic culinary cities on the map. Get your tickets to the March 17 Rising Stars Gala!
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/2011-houston-rising-stars
 10. StarChefs Studio: An Interview with Pastry Chef Johnny Iuzzini
From Jean Georges and "Top Chef: Just Desserts" to the StarChefs.com International Pastry Competition, Johnny Iuzzini's a pastry proselytizer-and we've got the gooey details on video.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/ features/starchefs-studio/johnny-iuzzini
 11. Celebrating Chefocracy: Vote for the Best New Chef!
It's time to speak up, people! Support our Rising Stars and vote for the Best New Chef on Food & Wine's People's Choice poll: Joshua Skenes of Saison; Brian McCracken and Dana Tough of Spur; Jamie Bissonnette of Coppa; Dan Kluger of ABC Kitchen; George Mendes of Aldea; Emma Hearst of Sorella; Chris Pandel of The Bristol; Ryan Poli formerly of Perennial; and Nick Stefanelli of Bibiana.
http://www.foodandwine.com/peoples-best-new-chef
 12. Photo Galleries from Our Recent Tastings
Photo Galleries from our recent tastings in Chicago, including Bonsoirée, Grahamwhich, Longman & Eagle, and more.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/photo-gallery

 13. Featured Video: Jared Van Camp Shows Off His Meat
Chef Jared Van Camp shows off his meats, fermented, moldy, and hanging loose at Old Town Social.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/jared-van-camp-tour-old-town-social-chicago
 14. Featured Cookbook: Amuse-Bouche
Little Bites of Delight Before the Meal Begins
Rick Tramonto and Mary Goodbody
September 2002
Random House
Though diminutive, the amuse-bouche does many jobs: it opens up the palate; it showcases the level of culinary sophistication to come. And, most importantly, it welcomes the diner, introducing them to the chef, and opens diners up to the more elaborate experience of the meal. From complex, avant-garde small bites to classics, amuse-bouches are a fixture of fine dining, and increasingly popular among upscale casual restaurants that emphasize hospitality. With this aptly named little savor of a cookbook, Rick Tramonto, celebrated executive chef-partner of Chicago's Tru, shares the secret of his delicate, delicious amuses with a mainstream audience.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/cookbooks_keywords/amuse-bouche
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Executive Chef

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 15. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com's JobFinder
Chef
Do you enjoy the creativity & flexibility of catering?
Shully's Cuisine & Events
Thiensville, WI
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=276161&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Work with James Beard Award Winning Chef Rick Bayless!
Topolobampo
Chicago, IL
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275640&positionid=

Line Cook
Summer on Cape Cod at Seasonal Upscale Bistro
Winslow's Tavern
Welfleet, MA
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275960&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Spend Your Summer at our Award Winning Luxury Property
Toppers at The Wauwinet Inn
Nantucket, MA
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275043&positionid=

Culinary Instructor
Outstanding Part Time Culinary Instructor Wanted!
The Art Institute of California
Orange County, CA
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275601&positionid=

Sous Chef
Incredible Opportunity For The Right Match
Park Country Club of Buffalo
Buffalo, NY
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=276060&positionid=

Assistant Restaurant Manager
Small 5 Diamond Restaurant, Focusing on the Freshest Ingredients
Wheatleigh
Lenox, MA
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275460&positionid=

Chef
Seasonal Cape Cod Chef Wanted- Position Includes Room & Board!
Monomoy Theatre
Chatham, Massachusetts
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=275740&positionid=

Sous Chef
Seeking Talented Sous with Relais & Chateaux/Michelin Experience for our Relais & Chateaux Property
Anonymous
Northeast
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=276200&positionid=

Line Cook
AAA 4 Diamond Restaurant seeking experienced Line Cooks
WaterColor Inn & Resort
Santa Rosa Beach, FL
http://starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=276180&positionid=
 16. Featured Chef to Know: Gale Gand of Tru - Chicago, IL
676 North Saint Clair
Chicago, IL 60611
Phone: (312) 202-0001
www.trurestaurant.com

RESTAURANT FACTS
Seats: 60 to100
Weeknight Covers: 50 to 80
Weekend Covers: 130 to 180
Check Average (with Wine): $150
Tasting Menu: Yes, $145
Kitchen Staff: 4 to 6

CHEF FACTS
Born: 1956
Began Career: 1984
Culinary School: La Varenne, France
Stages: France: La Pyramid
Work History: New York, NY: Strathallen Hotel, Jam's with Jonathan; Highwood, IL: Carlos; Chicago, IL: Charlie Trotter's; Evanston, IL: Trio; Northfield IL: Brasserie T
Other Restaurants: Gale's Coffee Bar, Osteria Di Tramonto, Tramonto's Steak & Seafood, RT Lounge, Nacional 27
Cuisine: American with French and English influences
Mentor(s): Moe Brooker and Bob Gand
Protégée(s): Della Gosset
Awards: 2004 Chicago Magazine Best Pastry Chef; 2004 Chicago Magazine Best Restaurant; 2004 Wine Spectator Grand Award; 2004 Nation's Restaurant News Fine Dining Hall of Fame; 2003 Restaurants and Institutions IVY Award; 2001 Bon Appetit Top Pastry Chef of the Year; 2001 James Beard Foundation Outstanding Pastry Chef Midwest Nominee; 1994 Robert Mondavi Award for Culinary Excellence; 1994 Food & Wine Ten Best New Chefs
Affiliations: IACP, LDE, WDC, JBF, EWG, GCM, Relais & Chateaux
Languages Spoken: French, Italian, some Spanish

NOTABLE DISH(ES): Chocolate Pernod Semifreddo; Italian Almond-iced Christmas Cookies

FAST FACTS
Restaurant Recs: Max and Benny's for veal brisket sandwich on challah.
Kitchen Tool(s): Colander. It's good for rinsing, washing, and shocking blanched items.
Interview Question:Do you feel like your hands do what your brain tells them to? This tells me if they are comfortable and confident in their body. Where do you like to eat? This tells me about how into food they are.
Flavor Combo(s): Berries and cream, like buttermilk panna cotta and flavorful fresh raspberries
Fave Cookbook(s): Blue Strawberry Cookbook by James Haller. Cooking (Brilliantly) Without Recipes by James Haller
Chef to Cook for You: Probably Pierre Hermé. I just think he has the best palate and is the most technically sound pastry chef working today.
Culinary Travel: I've never been to Vienna, and I think it would be good for me to see what I consider the motherland (besides France) for pastry.
 17. Recipe for Giralomo Sour from Mixologist Stephen Cole at The Violet Hour - Chicago, IL
Adapted by StarChefs.com

Yield: 1 Cocktail

INGREDIENTS:
1½ ounces Luxardo amaro
½ ounce Luxardo bitters
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice
½ ounce simple syrup
1 egg white

METHOD:
Combine the Luxardo amaro, Luxardo bitters, lemon juice, simple syrup, and egg white in a shaker without ice and shake. Add ice and shake again. Pour contents into a cocktail glass.
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