The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 205
May 25, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 61: Portland and Seattle
2. Chef Feature: Vitaly Paley of Paley's Place
3. On the Plate: Matt Lightner of Castagna - Portland, OR
4. Wrap Up: StarChefs.com at the 2010 IACP Conference
5. Featured Video: Mixologist Andrew Bohrer of Mistral Kitchen
6. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from Our Tastings in Portland and Seattle
7. Featured Cookbook: Mother's Best Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again
8. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
9. Featured Chef to Know: Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant & Bar
10. Recipe for Braised Beef Short Ribs by Erica Burke from Volunteer Park Café - Seattle, WA
StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit www.starchefs.com

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 1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 61: Portland and Seattle
Cruising the culinary scenes in Portland and Seattle, from the 32nd annual IACP to the marquee chefs and a wealth of local products.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/letter-from-the-editor/vol61/food-in-portland.shtml
 2. Chef Feature: Vitaly Paley of Paley's Place
Follow the career of this former Julliard-pianist to his pork-happy culinary legacy in Portland, with biography, recipe, and video interview.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chef-features/chef-vitaly-paley
 3. On the Plate: Matt Lightner of Castagna - Portland, OR
A closer look at the refined naturalism of Chef Matt Lightner's elegant dishes, rich with regional products, at Portland's Castagna.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/plating/vol23/matt-lightner-castagna-portland-or
 4. Wrap Up: StarChefs.com at the 2010 IACP Conference
A wrap-up of some of the myriad sessions on all things culinary from this year's IACP conference.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/events/starchefs-at-iacp
 5. Featured Video: Mixologist Andrew Bohrer of Mistral Kitchen
Mixologist Andrew Bohrer demonstrates hand-carved ice for Mistral Kitchen cocktail "The Bitter Handshake."
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/hand-carved-ice
 6. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from Our Tastings in Portland and Seattle
Photos from our recent tastings in Portland, from the 2010 IACP Annual Conference Sessions and Awards Ceremony, from the Eat Mobile Food Cart Festival, and from our recent tastings in Seattle and New York City.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/photo-gallery
 7. Featured Cookbook: Mother's Best Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again
Lisa Schroeder with Danielle Centoni
November 2009
Taunton

Lisa Schroeder changed careers at 35, enrolling in The Culinary Institute of America, working long hours in multiple restaurants, and finally starting upscale comfort-food mecca Mother's Bistro & Bar in Portland ten years ago. From this outpost, Chef Schroeder combines her culinary training at one of the country's most respected programs with a deep respect for the homey satisfaction of mothers' recipes from all over. Just as her restaurant bridges the gap between the casual, traditional style of home cooking practiced by mothers and the savvy of a working chef, Schroeder's book offers tips, called "Love Notes," to explain the winning techniques behind her mom-inspired, chef-executed recipes. With 150 dishes from the restaurant, Mother's Best promises to bring rustic, simple, home style cuisine to a mother's kitchen near you.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/cookbooks/
 8. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Experienced Lead Cook
Top-notch Cook for Miami Resort
The Breakers
Florida
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265240&positionid=

Sous Chef
Healthy School Food
Boulder Valley School District
Colorado
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265220&positionid=

Executive Pastry Chef
Morimoto Napa seeks an outstanding Pastry Chef!
Morimoto Napa
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265181&positionid=

Executive Chef
Modern American Restaurant in Washington, DC
Knights Bridge Mgmt., Inc.
District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265141&positionid=

Sous Chef
Sous chef needed immediately for steakhouse
venegas prime filet
Maryland
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264961&positionid=

Pastry/Garde Manger/ Chef de Partie with Sous Chef Potential
Use your creativity with the highest quality Vermont ingredients
Michael's on the Hill
Northeast, USA, Vermont
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265000&positionid=

Line Cook Supervisor
Sustainability is Our Passion
Blackberry Farm
Tennessee
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265080&positionid=

Cook
Excellent additional earning potential
Silver Water Wheel Lodge
Canada
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264220&positionid=

Sr Sous Chef Banquets (Banquet Chef)
#2 in Huge, Upscale Banquet Kitchen
Gaylord National Resort & Convention Ctr.
Maryland
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=265160&positionid=

Culinary Faculty
Pass on your culinary passion!
The Art Institute of California - Orange County
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263920&positionid=
 9. Featured Chef to Know: Greg Higgins of Higgins Restaurant & Bar
1239 SW Broadway
Portland, OR 97205
(503) 222-9070

RESTAURANT FACTS
Seats: 85-145
Weeknight Covers: 150
Weekend Covers: 230
Check Average (with wine): $50
Tasting Menu: No
Kitchen Staff: 5

CHEF FACTS
Cuisine: Northwest sustainable organic
Born: 1958
Began Career: 1972
Stages: France: Les Vosges
Work History: France: Les Vosges, La Cote d'Or; Seattle, WA: Fullers; Portland, OR: The Heathman Restaurant
Mentor(s): Joseph Matter, Alice Waters, Michael Wild
Protégée(s): Scott Dolich, Vito DiLullo, Brad Root, Rich Meyer
Awards: 2004 DiRoNA Restaurant Hall of Fame; 2001 James Beard Foundation Best Chef Northwest/Hawaii
Affiliations: Chefs Collaborative, Slow Food
Languages: French, Spanish

NOTABLE DISH(ES): Tagine of Alaskan Halibut with Saffron Couscous, Almonds and Harissa

FAST FACTS
Restaurant Recs: Alba Osteria for agnolotti dal plin
Kitchen Tool(s): Mortar and pestle because it makes great sauces
Interview Question: What do you know about us?
Flavor Combo(s): Strong aromatic contrasts with full deep background flavors. For example: seared and roasted wild salmon with a contrasting relish of chilies and aromatic herbs.
Fave Cookbook(s): Honey from a Weed, by Patience Gray
Chef to Cook for You: Kazumasa Kitajima of Riute Restaurant outside of Fukuoka, Kyushu Japan - incredible organic Inaka-style Kaiseki Ryori, all presented on the pottery of Japan's living masters.
Culinary Travel: My most recent trip was to New Zealand, prior to that Extremadure, Alsace, Crete, Apulia, Provence...you get the idea.
Jade 10. Recipe for Braised Beef Short Ribs by Erica Burke from Volunteer Park Café - Seattle, WA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
May 2010

Yield: 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS
Braised Beef Short Rib:
6 8-ounce portions boneless beef short ribs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil
2 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped
½ cup chopped celery
2 bay leaves
1 bottle dry red wine
1½ quarts beef stock

Fall Hash:
2 cups peeled and diced butternut squash
2 cups diced red bliss potato1 cup peeled and diced parsnips
¼ cup canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup butter
4 strips thick bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 cup finely chopped sweet onions
1 small Granny Smith apple, cored and cut into ½-inch dice
10 leaves sage, thinly sliced crosswise
¼ cup Champagne vinegar

Pan Jus:
1 cup red wine
¼ cup cold butter, cut into small chunks
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Blanched Kale:
Salt
3 bunches kale, washed, stems removed and thinly chopped

METHOD
For the Short Ribs:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Heat the canola oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the beef to the pan and brown on all sides. Reduce the heat to medium. Remove the beef from the pan and place in an oven-safe baking pan. Add the chopped vegetables and sauté for approximately 3 minutes. Add the wine and stock and stir to incorporate; bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiled, remove the mixture from the heat and pour the entire contents over the beef. Wrap the baking pan in aluminum foil and braise for 2½ hours until fork-tender. Remove from the oven. Pour a pintof the braising liquid through a sieve to remove all solids; reserve and cool. Hold the short ribs in the remaining liquid until ready to serve.

For the Fall Hash:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Combine the squash, potato, and parsnips in a large mixing bowl and toss with the canola oil; season with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture on a large baking sheet and roast in the oven for 20 minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the apple and cook until it starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Gently stir in the roasted vegetables, and sage, and then pour in the vinegar. Simmer over moderately high heat until the vinegar has almost evaporated, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

For the Pan Jus:
Remove the fat from the cooled pint of reserved braising liquid. In a medium pot, combine braising liquid and wine. Simmer on medium heat until reduced by a quarter. Slowly add the cold butter into the sauce, whisking well to completely incorporate. Season with salt and pepper.

For the Kale:
Bring a pot of salted water to boil and prepare an ice water bath. When the water is boiling, add the kale and blanch for approximately 1 minute. Remove the kale from the boiling water, strain, and shock in the prepared ice water bath.

To Assemble and Serve:
Add the kale to the skillet with the hash and warm to serve. Scoop the hash-kale mixture onto the center of each dinner plate. Top each hash pile with a portion of the braised short ribs and spoon with pan jus.
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