The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 204
May 17, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 60: New Zealand, A Land of Culinary Wealth
2. New Zealand Travel: What to Eat and Where to Stay
3. Chef Feature: Michael Meredith
4. Top Pairs vol. 13: Michael Bancks of Terroir at Craggy Range Winery
5. On the Plate: Impressive Platings from Four New Zealand Chefs
6. Go Fish: Farming with New Zealand King Salmon
7. Featured Video: Al Brown on New Zealand's Evolving Cuisine
8. Featured Video: Touring Chard Farm Winery
9. Featured Video: Farm Tour with Firstlight Foods
10. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from New Zealand Tastings
11. Featured Cookbook: Go Fish by Al Brown
12. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
13. Featured Chef to Know: Josh Emett of Gordon Ramsay at The London
14. Recipe for Firstlight Venison Carpaccio from Executive Chef Leyton Ashley of Terroir at Craggy Range Winery - Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit www.starchefs.com

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 1. Letter from the Editor, vol. 60: New Zealand, A Land of Culinary Wealth
Discovering the impeccable products, lush agriculture, and reenergized culinary ambition of New Zealand.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/letter-from-the-editor/vol60/
 2. New Zealand Travel: What to Eat and Where to Stay
The top restaurants, hotels, and adventures to be had in New Zealand, the ideal spot for a hungry, thrill-seeking chef on holiday.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/travel/new-zealand/
 3. Chef Feature: Michael Meredith
Exploring the career and influence of New Zealand culinary leader Michael Meredith.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/chef-michael-meredith
 4. Top Pairs vol. 13: Michael Bancks of Terroir at Craggy Range Winery

Sommelier Michael Bancks lives up to the restaurant's name with his creative pairings at Terroir.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/content/michael-bancks-terroir-craggy-range
 5. On the Plate: Impressive Platings from Four New Zealand Chefs
Picture-perfect platings from New Zealand chefs Leyton Ashley, Michael Meredith, Rex Brown, and Des Harris.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/plating/vol23
 6. Go Fish: Farming with New Zealand King Salmon
A closer look at salmon farming with one of the country's major exporters, New Zealand King Salmon.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/new-zealand-king-salmon-salmon-farming
 7. Featured Video: Al Brown on New Zealand's Evolving Cuisine
Chef Al Brown of Logan Brown Restaurant discusses the evolution of his country's cuisine.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/al-brown-new-zealand
 8. Featured Video: Touring Chard Farm Winery
Owner Bob Hey leads a tour of Pinot Noir champion Chard Farm Winery.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/chard-farm-winery
 9. Featured Video: Farm Tour with Firstlight Foods
Discovering the green pastures and top quality product of one of Firstlight Foods 35 New Zealand farms.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/firstlight-foods-new-zealand
 10. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from New Zealand Tastings
Photos from our recent tastings in New Zealand, including Al Brown's Test Kitchen, Merediths, and Upstairs at the Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/photo-gallery
 11. Featured Cookbook: Go Fish by Al Brown
Recipes and Stories from the New Zealand Coast
Al Brown
Random House
2009

For Al Brown, chef by trade and lifelong fisherman by avocation, "to catch a fish and then cook it, as simple as it may sound, brings me more gratification than almost anything else." In Go Fish, Brown collects his passion for the treasures of the briny deep into a colorful, heartfelt compendium of recipes, practical tips, and personal stories that span decades of fishing, cooking, and eating. Brown generously shares his idiosyncratic and highly personal relationship with fishing, giving readers a sense of ownership and responsibility similar to what he himself learned as a young boy. After an introduction recounting his first formative muddy days of creek-side eel fishing to his first experience of fishing in the sea, Brown delves into dishes that feature New Zealand's best and lesser-known species. And the chef's philosophy of cooking as simply as possible, which he practices daily at Wellington's Logan Brown, allows the unadulterated purity of the fish to shine through in every dish, making this cookbook as much a regional representation of New Zealand seafood as cooking guide. With sophisticated recipes that encourage experimentation and flexibility, as well as tips that distill not only practical but cultural savvy, Go Fish acts like a literary initiation into the rich tradition and culinary culture of New Zealand fishing.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/cookbooks/G
ACQNZ
 12. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Culinary Lab Assistant
We need your skills in our Culinary Lab!
Riverside Community College District
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264701&positionid=

Director of Food and Beverage
Great Opportunity to Join Our Team
Hebrew Senior Life
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264280&positionid=

Line Cooks
Great opportunities for line cooks
Oceana
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264600&positionid=

Sous Chef, Line Cooks, Pastry Chefs
Seeking stellar culinary team for exciting opportunity
AGAINN
Maryland , District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264680&positionid=

Pastry Chef
4th Best New Restaurant in Canada
Atelier
Canada
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264540&positionid=

Mixologist
Be the first to hold this position at VOLT
VOLT
Maryland , District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262841&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
Incredible Executive Sous Chef Opportunity For The Right Match
Chalet Restaurant Grp.
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264640&positionid=

Sous Chef
Exciting Opportunity in Manhattan
Sky Advertising
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264620&positionid=

Sous Chef
Join the Max Restaurant Group Team!
Max Restaurant Grp.
Connecticut
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264560&positionid=

Head Chef
Upscale Restaurant Venture Seeks Experienced Executive Chef
Rustica
Michigan
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=264460&positionid=
 13. Featured Chef to Know: Josh Emett of Gordon Ramsay at The London
151 West 54th Street
New York, NY 10019
(212) 468-8888

RESTAURANT FACTS
Seats: 45
Weeknight Covers: 80-90
Weekend Covers: 80-90
Check Average (with wine): $200
Tasting Menu: Yes $135
Kitchen Staff: 10

CHEF FACTS
Born: 1973
Began Career: 1991
Culinary School: Waikato Polytechnic, New Zealand
Work History: Australia: Waipa Delta, Cin Cin on Quay, Est Est Est; England: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's, The Savoy Grill, Banquette
Awards: 2008 StarChefs.com Rising Star Hotel Chef New York
Affiliations: We do some charity work with City Harvest. We have relationships with culinary schools and done a few classes inside our kitchens. We also teach a lot of stages.

NOTABLE DISH(ES): Saddle of Rabbit Poached in Almond Milk with White Asparagus with La Ratte Potato and Passion Fruit Vinaigrette

FAST FACTS
Restaurant Recs: Tia Pol for tapas; Public; Ed's Lobster Bar on the corner of Lafayette and Spring - I love the crab and artichoke dip, the fish, and the lobseter
Interview Question: How long do you intend to work for us? I want an answer, and we expect a minimum of a year out of someone.
Flavor Combo(s): Earthy flavors - Jerusalem artichokes with rabbit; scallop and cauliflower
Fave Cookbook(s): The original Michel Bras cookbook
Chef to Cook for You: Michel Bras - he's got amazing balance and finesse in his cooking
Culinary Travel: Asia or South America. Somewhere I haven't been yet. I would like to learn more about the cooking techniques in Asia.
 14. Recipe for Firstlight Venison Carpaccio from Executive Chef Leyton Ashley of Terroir at Craggy Range Winery - Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
Adapted by StarChefs.com
May 2010

Yield: 1 loin of venison carpaccio

INGREDIENTS
Venison Carpaccio:
6 parts black pepper, ground
1 part juniper, ground
Salt
Venison short loin, trimmed

Juniper Cream:
300 milliliters cream
Lemon zest
2 tablespoons juniper berries, lightly crushed
1 teaspoon caster sugar
1 tablespoon glucose
3 sheets gelatin, softened

Candied Walnuts:
200 grams caster sugar
200 milliliters water
2 cups walnuts
Sea Salt

Assemble and Serve:
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Watercress tips, washed
Molasses
Pomegranate seeds
Chioggia Beets

METHOD

For the Venison Carpaccio:
Combine the ground pepper and juniper; mix thoroughly and season with salt. Roll the trimmed loin in the mixture and sear off lightly and evenly. Cool the loin and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Put in the freezer to soft freeze.

For the Juniper Cream:
Bring the cream to a simmer. Add the zest, juniper berries, sugar, and glucose. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Steep the aromatics in the cream for 1 hour. Whisk in the softened gelatin leaves. Strain this mixture and spread 1 centimeter thick into a straight mold. Burn off any air bubbles with a flame torch. Chill to set, at least 2 hours.

For the Candied Walnuts:
In a sauce pan over medium-high heat, stir water and sugar until dissolved. Add the walnuts and turn the heat to high. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce to a simmer until it reaches light caramel and the nuts are well glazed and the syrup is reduced. Remove from heat and cool. Once the walnuts are cool, fry them in a deep fryer at 165°C. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a cooling rack and season with sea salt while still warm.

Assemble and Serve:
Cut the venison very thin with a meat slicer. Arrange a few slices on a plate, overlapping. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. Sprinkle on watercress tips. Cut the chilled juniper cream into 1-centimeter cubes. Arrange on plate with the carpaccio. Drizzle with molasses and top with candied walnuts and fresh pomegranate seeds. Slice the choogia last minute on mandolin to get a thin bullseye effect and add to the plate.
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