The Dishrag Newsletter
Issue 201
April 15, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE
1. Composed Cheese Course
2. Whip it: Industry Use of Whippers and Foamers Explored
3. Nostalgic Desserts for a Modern Age
4. Seven Pastry Chefs, Interviewed
5. Sherry Yard Chef Feature
6. Technique: Grilled Milk Mousse by Jordan Kahn
7. Faith Middleton French Legends Dinner
8. Featured Video: Pastry Chef Kate Zuckerman at the 2009 Starchefs.com ICC
9. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from Recent Tastings in LA and New York
10. Featured Cookbook: Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making by Jeri Quinzio
11. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
12. Featured Pastry Chef to Know: Alex Stupak of wd~50 - New York, NY
13. Recipe for Frozen Tangerine Soufflé Glacé by Pastry Chef John McKee of Masa's - San Francisco, CA
StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit www.starchefs.com

Waring
 1. Composed Cheese Course
Pastry chefs everywhere are taking cheese courses off the cart and onto the plate, including Catherine Schimenti of San Francisco's Michael Mina and Carlos Salgado of Oakland's Commis. http://www.starchefs.com/features/trends/composed_cheese_plates/index.shtml
 2. Whip it: Industry Use of Whippers and Foamers Explored
StarChefs.com explores professional use of whippers and foamers with results from our recent industry survey.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/whippers-survey/html/index.shtml
 3. Nostalgic Desserts for a Modern Age
From peanut butter sandwiches to Pop Rocks, pastry chefs around the country are drawing inspiration from childhood treats and bringing them into the twenty first century.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/trends/nostalgic-desserts
 4. Seven Pastry Chefs, Interviewed
Pastry chefs from New York to Los Angeles share their recipes, inspirations, and philosophies.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/up-and-coming-pastry-chefs
 5. Sherry Yard Chef Feature
Biography, recipe, video demonstration, and photo galleries from Pastry Chef Sherry Yard of Wolfgang Puck's famed Spago.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/features/pastry-chef-sherry-yard
 6. Technique: Grilled Milk Mousse by Jordan Kahn
Pastry Chef Jordan Kahn throws cold milk on the grill in this high-concept char technique.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/jordan-kahn-grilled-milk-mousse/
 7. Faith Middleton French Legends Dinner
An evening honoring Jacques Pépin, Alain Sailhac, André Soltner and Jacques Torres at the French Culinary Institute.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/faith-middleton-french-legends-wine-dinner/index.shtml
 8. Featured Video: Pastry Chef Kate Zuckerman at the 2009 Starchefs.com ICC
Pastry Chef Kate Zuckerman explores the production, grading, and terroir of maple syrup and its application as a thematic flavor in desserts.
http://http://www.starchefs.com/cook/videos/price-maple-syrup
 9. Photo Galleries: Latest Photos from Recent Tastings in LA and New York
Photo galleries of dishes and platings from Los Angeles and New York, including Café Pierre, Ford's Filling Station, BONDST, Crema, Gilt, and more.
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/photo-gallery
 10. Featured Cookbook: Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making by Jeri Quinzio
Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making
Jeri Quinzio
University of California Press
December 2009

Culinary historian Jeri Quinzio explores the real story of ice cream, and debunks several popular myths along the way in this 2010 IACP-nominated cookbook. A comprehensive overview of the traces the origins of ice cream making in sixteenth century Italy, this creatively spun volume describes the effects of ice cream on America and America on ice cream. Recipes that span the history of frozen desserts are included, such as turn of the century ice cream sandwiches and ice creams prepared from melted marshmallows or mallobets.

http://www.starchefs.com/cook/cookbooks_keywords/Of%20Sugar%20and%20Snow
Vita-Mix vitamix XL
The Vita-Mix® XL™
1.5 gallon real blending capacity
4.2 peak HP motor
Increase efficiency with only one blending cycle
Click here for more info: www.vitamix.com/xl
 11. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Mixologist
Innovative Mixologist to Jump-Start New Cocktail Program
VOLT
Maryland, District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262841&positionid=

Head Baker & Pastry Chef
L'Etoile Restaurant
Wisconsin
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262040&positionid=

Master Cook
World Renowed Chef Alain Ducasse
Adour at The St. Regis Hotel
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263220&positionid=

Sous Chef/ Garde Manger
Hershey Entertainment & Resorts
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263140&positionid=

Various Culinary Professionals
Mobil Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond Hotel
The Peninsula Chicago
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263180&positionid=

Line Cook
New Jean-Georges Restaurant in Union Square Area Seeks Line Cooks
ABC Kitchen
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263060&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Seasonal Pastry Chef
Whisknladle Restaurant & Bar
San Diego
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=263020&positionid=

Cook Academy Head Chef
Outstanding Vermont Teaching Opportunity
The Essex Resort & Spa
Northeast
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262621&positionid=

Executive Chef
Well established family owned seafood restaurant seeking Chef
Browns Wharf Inn
Maine
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262840&positionid=

Pastry Chef
A Voce
MARC
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=262920&positionid=
 12. Featured Pastry Chef to Know: Alex Stupak of wd~50 - New York, NY
wd~50
50 Clinton Street
New York, NY 10002
(212) 477-2900

CHEF FACTS
Cuisine: Creative desserts
Born: 1980
Began Career: 2000
Culinary School: The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY
Grad Year: 2000
Work History: Boston, MA: The Federalist, Clio; Chicago, IL: Alinea, Tru
Mentor(s): Ken Oringer, Grant Achatz, Wylie Drufresne
Awards: 2008 New York Times 3 Stars; 2008 Iron Chef Victory for the Chocolate Challenge; 2005 StarChefs.com Rising Star Pastry Chef Chicago; 2003 Boston Magazine Best Pastry Chef.

Notable Dishes: Coconut Mousse with Cashew, Cucumber and Coriander; Fried Butterscotch Pudding, Mango, Taro and Smoked Macadamia

FAST FACTS
Restaurant Recs: I just moved to New York, so I'm still discovering places.
Kitchen Tool(s): The freezer-it has the widest range of application; laboratory-grade homogenizer-it's like a hand blender on steroids.
Interview Question: What do you ultimately want to do with your life and why will working with me help you get there?
Flavor Combo(s): Juniper, quince, and lime.
Fave Cookbook(s): Los Postres de el Bulli by Albert Adriá
Culinary Travel: I'd like to return to Mexico. The cuisine and its anthropology fascinates me.
 13. Recipe for Frozen Tangerine Soufflé Glacé by Pastry Chef John McKee of Masa's - San Francisco, CA
Made Possible by New Zealand LambAdapted by StarChefs.com
April 2010
Yield: 25 Servings in 2-inch ramekins/12 Servings in 3-inch ramekins

INGREDIENTS

2½ cups cream
½ cup water
1 cup sugar
¼ cup corn syrup
8 yolks
10 ounces tangerine juice
2½ tablespoons Cointreau or Grand Marnier

METHOD
Cut strips of parchment that stand three quarters of an inch to one inch above the top edge of the ramekins, and are long enough to line the ramekin at least one and a half times. Secure with tape. Whip the cream to a soft peak and hold in the refrigerator. Combine water, sugar and corn syrup in a small saucepan and place a candy thermometer in the pan. Make sure the pan is small enough so that when you place the thermometer in it, the sugar mixture will be high enough to give an accurate reading. Heat the sugar mixture until it reaches the firm ball stage (250°F degrees). Meanwhile, whisk the yolks in the bowl of a stand-mixer with a whisk attachment until smooth. Combine the tangerine juice and Cointreau. When the sugar reaches the desired temperature, turn the stand mixer to medium-high speed and slowly pour the cooked sugar down the side of the mixing bowl in a slowly steady stream. Once all of the sugar is in the bowl, turn the mixer up to high speed and whisk until thick. Turn the speed down to low and add the tangerine mixture. Mix briefly just until combined and remove the bowl from the mixer. Using a hand whisk with a folding motion, fold in a third of the whipped cream. Fold in the remaining cream using a rubber spatula. Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins just about to the top. Freeze for 3 to 4 hours or overnight. While still frozen, remove the parchment strips and garnish with fresh tangerine segments or fresh berries.
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