The Dishrag Newsletter
January 28, 2010
IN THIS ISSUE
  1. All About Umami: Rediscovering the Fifth Flavor
  2. Technique: Umami Condiments at Umami Burger
  3. Umami in Cocktails
  4. Umami in Pastry
  5. Chef Feature: Yoshihiro Murata
  6. Latest Photo Galleries from San Francisco
  7. Featured Cookbook Blurb: Japanese Healthy Sprinkles
  8. Featured Sommelier to Know: Jorge Morgado of Oceanaire - Miami, FL
  9. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
  10. Recipe for Hamachi Sashimi with Pickled Shiitake from Chef Jason Knibb of Nine-Ten Restaurant - La Jolla, CA
StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit www.starchefs.com

 
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 1. All About Umami: Rediscovering the Fifth Flavor
Despite its long history, umami has only recently come into public consciousness. And over the past few years, we've seen a boom in the number of dishes, drinks-and even restaurant concepts-dedicated to the elusive "fifth flavor." We explore the diverse uses of umami, the source of the meaty richness of many of our favorite foods, as well as its prospects in the future of culinary innovation.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/rediscovering-umami/html/index.shtml
 2. Technique: Umami Condiments at Umami Burger
Melting cheese and blending ketchup for a burger just got a whole lot more satisfying. Using these techniques to make umami-rich beer-infused Cheddar cheese and ultra-savory ketchup, Chef Adam Fleischman of California's glutamate outpost Umami Burger creates a glutamate-heavy burger experience.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/umami-cheese-ketchup-burger/html/index.shtml
 3. Umami in Cocktails
The mature cocktail scene has already gotten a healthy dose of so-called "savory" ingredients-smoked salts, herbal infusions, a garden's worth of vegetables-but incorporating umami into the mix changes the flavor profile and adds a fifth dimension to a drink. Mixologists from New York, Chicago, and Hollywood showcase their umami-inflected cocktails, further proof of the undying versatility of the craft behind the bar.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/umami-in-cocktails/html/index.shtml
 4. Umami in Pastry
Savory elements can accent the sweetness of a dessert and add more depth than traditional sweet alternatives. Adding umami to the list of available savory elements only furthers the flavor potential available to pastry chefs. We tasted with two pastry chefs from the heart of LA's populous pastry scene, who showcase umami in their inventive pastry creations.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/umami-in-pastry/html/index.shtml
 5. Chef Feature: Yoshihiro Murata
Yoshihiro Murata, hailing from Japan's famed Kikunoi restaurant, presented at the 2009 International Chefs Congress, emphasizing the importance of the four seasons in his cooking and the power of umami to replace salt and pepper as a seasoning agent in Japanese cooking. Check out the kaiseki master's bio, recipe, and video interview from our 2009 Chefs Congress.

http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/yoshihiro-murata/html/index.shtml
 6. Latest Photo Galleries from San Francisco
Photos from our recent tasting trip to San Francisco: Pizzeria Delfina, Bar Tartine, Chez Papa, Serpentine, Il Cane Rosso, Scala's Bistro, The Moss Room, Gitane, The Tonga Room, Gary Danko, Bin 38, SPQR, Gialina, Flour + Water, Michael Mina, A16, Absinthe Brasserie, Alembic, Elixer, Hotel Vertigo, and The Fairmont San Francisco Luxury Hotel & Resort.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
 7. Featured Cookbook Blurb: Japanese Healthy Sprinkles
Japanese Healthy Sprinkles: Three Chefs Shake It Up with Traditional Japanese Spices
Masaharu Morimoto, Troy N. Thompson, and Roy Yamaguchi
DH Publishing
2008

Sprinkles don't immediately come to mind when thinking of western savory food, but in Japanese cuisine, the use of furikake (literally "shake" or "sprinkle") to flavor foods from rice to soups and beyond is common. Originally created to supplement calcium in the Japanese diet (a pharmacist blended dried, ground fish with seaweed and seasonings), furikake have expanded over the decades, even to the shores of western cuisine. In this user friendly guide, three famous chefs offer up recipes using furikake that span the ultra traditional to the contemporary. Interspersed are recipes for furikake, adaptable seasoning blends that lend these (and any) recipes an extraordinary depth of authentic Japanese flavor.
 8. Featured Sommelier to Know: Jorge Morgado of Oceanaire - Miami, FL
Oceanaire
900 S Miami Avenue
Suite 111 Miami, FL 33130
(305) 372-8862

SOMMELIER FACTS
List Size: 285
Cellar Size: 1000-12000
Work History: Florida: Noble House Hotels and Resorts
Wine Book: the Wine Bible, StarChefs.com, and wine publications like Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, and Wine Enthusiast
Pairing: We just did a wine dinner highlighting Chablis and one pairing that was great was a La Roche AOC Chablis with Squid Ink Tamale Stuffed with Calamari and Salsa Quemado. I also love foie gras with Chenin Blanc. It is incredible.
Wine Region: Right now I love Chile, Argentina, and Spain. Our list is certainly Spanish-influenced, considering we are catering to the residents of Miami.
 
 9. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Features Editor (not freelance)
Feature Editor at Professional Culinary Magazine
StarChefs.com
Northeast, USA, New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260820&positionid=

Line Cook
Line Cooks - Danny Meyer's Maialino
Maialino
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260800&positionid=

Sales Representative
Work With Leading Sous Vide Equip Company
Julabo
U.S.
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260780&positionid=

Line cook- Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Come work on the farm!
Blue Hill & Blue Hill at Stone Barns
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260760&positionid=

Executive Chef & Food Service Director
Midwest Kosher Summer Camp
Wisconsin
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260700&positionid=

STK Miami - Chef de Cuisine & Sous Chef
STK on Miami Beach, FL
Florida
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=256220&positionid=

Cook
FIG Restaurant
Santa Monica
FIG Restaurant Santa Monica
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260681&positionid=

Head Chef at the Ambassador's Residence
Head Chef to the British Ambassador
British Embassy
District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260680&positionid=

Sous Chef
Sous Chef at Relais Chateaux Property
Glendorn
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260660&positionid=

Executive Chef
Executive Chef for Golf Course and Community
River Run Golf Course & Community
Maryland
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=260200&positionid=
 10. Recipe for Hamachi Sashimi with Pickled Shiitake from Chef Jason Knibb of Nine-Ten Restaurant - La Jolla, CA
Yield: Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

Pickled Mushrooms:
1 ounce extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic
2 shallots, sliced into rings
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bunch thyme
1 pound baby shiitake mushrooms
1 pint dry white wine or vermouth
1 pint white wine vinegar
1 pint seasoned rice wine vinegar
¼ cup soy sauce

Scallion Vinaigrette:
1 cup scallions, thinly sliced
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ cup soy sauce

White Shoyu Gel:
8 grams agar agar
500 grams white shoyu

To Assemble and Serve:
1 pound sashimi-grade hamachi
1 bunch upland cress
Sea salt

METHOD

For the Pickled Mushrooms:
In a medium-sized sauté pan on medium-high heat, add olive oil, garlic, shallots, and spices. Sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine or vermouth, vinegars and soy sauce. Bring to a boil and let cook for 1 minute. Put the mixture into a container to let cool at room temperature. Reserve chilled.

For the Scallion Vinaigrette:
Combine the scallions, rice wine vinegar, sesame oil, olive oil, and soy sauce, and let stand for 15 minutes. Reserve.

For the White Shoyu Gel:
In small sauce pan, combine agar agar with half of the shoyu and blend with a handheld immersion blender for 1 minute. Bring the liquid to a boil, stirring frequently. Let simmer for about 1 minute and then stir in the rest of the shoyu. Put the liquid into an ice bath and cool until the liquid is ice cold and solid (about 3 to 4 hours).

Remove the gel from the container and break into chunks. Put the shoyu gel into a blender and blend until smooth and creamy. Pour the purée into a shallow half hotel pan, put into a vacuum machine, and vacuum the purée to remove the air bubbles. Transfer the puree to a squeeze bottle and reserve at room temperature.

To Assemble and Serve:
Slice the hamachi into 1/8-inch thick slices (should yield about 24 slices). Arrange 6 slices, laying vertically, in a long line. Place the shiitake mushrooms in and around the hamachi slices. Spoon the scallion vinaigrette over the hamachi and horizontally around the fish. Garnish the plate with dots of the shoyu gel on and around the hamachi. Place the cress on the hamachi and the plate. Season with sea salt.
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