November 24, 2009 - Issue 188
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

IN THIS ISSUE

1. Letter from the Editor: Technology Update
2. A Chef, a Food Writer, an Editor, and a Food Truck on the Power of Twitter
3. Secrets from Food Scientists: Dr. Nathan Myhrvold and Chef Christopher Young
4. Technique (Plus Video): Cryo-Rendering Duck Breast
5. A Video Tour of the Intellectual Ventures Laboratory
6. Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
7. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
8. Featured Chef to Know: Homaro Cantu of Moto - Chicago, IL
9. Recipe for Jerk Pork Belly from Chef Jason Knibb of Nine-Ten - La Jolla, CA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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The iSi Whipper: Endless Possibilities
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1. Letter from the Editor: Technology Update
In this issue, we bring to you the work of two food scientists who are changing the culinary landscape for the better through lab research and a revolutionary cookbook. And continuing with our theme on how technology affects the food industry, we've got a complete digest (with podcast) from our ICC seminar on the role of Twitter in restaurants. Enjoy our tech-related features and have a happy Thanksgiving!
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol53/
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2. A Chef, a Food Writer, an Editor, and a Food Truck on the Power of Twitter
Whether you think it's foolish or genius, there's no denying the power of the Twitter internet phenomenon. Such was the premise of our recent International Chefs Congress business seminar "The Power of Twitter." Writer Francis Lam moderated a discussion between Alinea's Grant Achatz, StarChefs.com's Antoinette Bruno, and Kogi BBQ's Roy Choi on the versatility of this technology. Here's the full podcast.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/power-of-twitter/html/index.shtml
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3. Secrets from Food Scientists: Dr. Nathan Myhrvold and Chef Christopher Young
Cryo-rendering, hot fruit gels, constructed dairy-free creams, puffed pork skin—these are all cooking solutions from the culinary and scientific minds behind the think-tank/laboratory Intellectual Ventures, namely ex-Microsoft Chief Technology Officer Dr. Nathan Myhrvold and Fat Duck-alum Chef Chris Young.
http://starchefs.com/chefs/chris-young-nathan-myhrvold-intellectual-ventures-bellevue/html/index.shtml
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4. Technique (Plus Video): Cryo-Rendering Duck Breast
Traditionally rendered duck breast is scored and seared, skin-side down, but while this usually results in a crisp skin, a frequent consequence is an overcooked muscle. At Intellectual Ventures, Dr. Nathan Myhrvold and Chef Chris Young have developed a technique for rendering duck breast while avoiding that very pitfall. What's the secret? Click below to find out.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/cryo-duck-breast-chris-young-nathan-myrhvold/html/index.shtml
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5. A Video Tour of the Intellectual Ventures Laboratory
We'd heard rumbles in chef circles about a massive laboratory kitchen tucked away in the suburbs outside of Seattle. Few had ever actually seen the infamous crib of Intellectual Ventures, but we were lucky enough to get the exclusive tour of the lab that Dr. Nathan Myhrvold has assembled for his mission-driven work. From the sci-fi steam griddles to the vacuum stills and homogenizers, the lab is outfitted with an unmatched array of high-tech equipment. Here's the exclusive video tour.
http://starchefs.com/features/intellectual-ventures-video-tour/html/index.shtml
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6. Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide
Thomas Keller (Artisan)
$75.00

One small step for Thomas Keller...one great leap for sous vide. With Under Pressure, Keller has made a compelling-and very pretty!-case for the technique which continues to be misunderstood by chefs and diners across the country. A joint effort by Keller and acclaimed chefs Jonathan Benno, Corey Lee, and Sebastien Rouxel, Under Pressure details the whys and hows of sous vide (one of the preferred cooking methods at The French Laundry, Bouchon and Per Se) and charts a detailed list of foods that will and will not benefit from the technique. Not to mention Deborah Jones' lush, high-contrast photographs of vacuum-packed foods, raw ingredient shots, and exquisitely plated dishes are high-art visions that stand alone. Keller's thorough examination of sous vide cooking coupled with his status as an icon of American cuisine legitimizes this modern technique and makes this the definitive treatise on the subject.
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Chefs that use Jade - Dante De Magistris and Jade Logo

The Dante Project

"Now we're spoiled...
any other range just doesn't cook!"

Dante De Magistris
Executive Chef

Chefs That Use Jade.

Click here for more information.

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7. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder

Bar Manager/Mixologist
The Best of all Worlds for The Right Bar Manager
Craigie On Main
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258540&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Are Your Desserts Divine?
The Greenbrier Hotel
West Virginia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258700&positionid=

Executive Chef for Upscale Casual Seafood Restaurant
Executive Chef Opportunity in Dallas
CULINAIRE & RG2
Texas
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258680&positionid=

Manager
Manager for Santa Monica Bistro
FIG Restaurant Santa Monica
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258380&positionid=

Chef de Partie & Jr Chef de Partie
Explore Career Opportunities
Fontainebleau Miami Beach
Florida
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258662&positionid=

Showroom Sales Rep
Showroom/Retail Sales with the leader in Japanese Chef Knives
Korin Japanese Trading Corp.
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258642&positionid=

Executive Chef de Cuisine
Executive Chef for Exciting Restaurant
The Old Fashioned
Wisconsin
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258641&positionid=

Executive Chef
Work in one of the most beautiful islands in the world
Bermuda Hospitality Services
Caribbean
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258600&positionid=

Sommelier / beverage manager
Opportunity Awaits at Fine Dining Restaurant in New Orleans
Stella
Louisiana
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258460&positionid=

Chef Position
Chef Needed for Local Foods Start -Up Making Fresh Prepared Meals
Luke's Local
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=258220&positionid=
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8. Featured Chef to Know: Homaro Cantu of Moto - Chicago, IL

Homaro Cantu
Chef/Owner
Moto
945 West Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 6067
(312) 491-0058

Restaurant Facts
Seats: 50-75
Tasting Menu: $75/$115/$175
Kitchen Staff: 12-16

Chef Facts
Cuisine: Post-modern interactive
Born: 1976
Began Career: 1988
Culinary School: Le Cordon Bleu, Portland, OR
Grad Year: 1994
Stages: San Francisco, CA: Aqua; Los Angeles, CA: Patina, Citrus; Seattle, WA: Fuller's
Work History: Chicago, IL: Charlie Trotter's
Mentors: Paul Allen, Stephen Hawking
Awards: 2005 StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef Chicago; the name "Daddy"
Languages Spoken: Some Spanish
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made possible by snake river9. Recipe for Jerk Pork Belly with Black Eyed Peas and Garnet Yam Puree
Chef Jason Knibb of Nine-Ten - La Jolla, CA
Adapted by StarChefs.com

Yield: 4 Servings

INGREDIENTS

Jerk Marinade (Makes 1½ quarts):
3 whole medium sized yellow onions, chopped
1½ cups fine chopped scallions
6 teaspoons thyme, minced
3 teaspoons Kosher salt
3 teaspoons brown sugar
3 teaspoons allspice, ground
1½ teaspoons nutmeg, ground
1½ teaspoons cinnamon, ground
3 teaspoons black pepper, ground
3 scotch bonnet peppers
9 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons cider vinegar

Jerk Pork Belly:
1 pork belly
3 cups jerk marinade
2 whole medium yellow onions, diced
3 carrots, peeled and diced
4 stalks celery, diced
1 gallon chicken stock
2 quarts veal stock

Pepper Jellies:
3 Scotch bonnet peppers fresh or habaneras
2 cups water
2 ounces sugar
2.6 grams gellan
0.7 grams gellan LT-100
1.5 grams fine sea salt
4 sheet silver gelatin, bloomed

Garnet Yam Purée:
4 cups yams, peeled and diced
1 ounce olive oil
6 cups water
1 tablespoon glucose powder

To Assemble and Serve:
16 pieces jerk pork cubes
1 cup black-eyed peas, cooked
1 cup plantains, diced and fried
6 Thumbelina carrots, braised and halved
1 tablespoon thyme leaves, picked
1 cup garnet yam puree
16 sheet pepper jelly slices
2 ounces micro Swiss chard

METHOD

For the Jerk Marinade: 
Place the onions, scallions, thyme, salt, sugar, allspice, cinnamon, pepper, peppers, soy sauce, canola oil, and vinegar into a food processor and purée until smooth. 

For the Jerk Pork Belly:
Preheat an oven to 325ºF. Marinate the pork over night with 4 cups of the marinade. Remove the pork from marinade and scrape off the excess marinade. Cut the pork belly in half and season. In a large sauté pan, sear pork on both sides until golden brown. Transfer the pork into a 4-inch hotel pan. Add the onions, carrots and celery to the pan and cook until caramelized. Add the remaining marinade and stocks. Bring to a boil and pour over pork. Place a piece of parchment over the pork and cover with foil. Place the pork in the oven and cook for 3-4 hours or until fork tender. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Remove the pork from the braising liquid, and strain the liquid into a large sauce pot. Skimming the fat from the pot, place on medium high heat and let reduce by half.  Reserve the braising liquid. Place the belly into the fridge and let cool until firm. Once firm, cut the belly into 1½-inch by 1½-inch cubes and reserve.

For the Pepper Jellies:
Place the scotch bonnet peppers in a blender with 2 cups  ofwater and purée on high speed. Strain the liquid through a coffee filter and chinois into a small sauce pot. Add sugar, gellan, gellan LT-100, and salt. Hydrate the liquid with a hand-held immersion blender for 30 seconds. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often with a whisk. Let boil for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin sheets. Working quickly, pour the mixture into two shallow pans and let cool in refrigerator for 2 hours. Remove the jellies from the mold. Cut the end and side of the jellies, creating a 1½-inch by 4-inch long rectangle. Using a Japanese mandolin, slice the jellies into thin rectangular pieces. Layer the jellies on acetate sheets and reserve.

For the Garnet Yam Purée:
In a medium sauté pan, add the oil and the yams. Sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and water. Reduce the heat to medium high and simmer until yams are soft and the liquid is almost dry. Transfer to the blender and purée until smooth. Add the glucose and blend for 1 minute. Season and strain through a chinois. Transfer the mixture to an ice bath to cool.

 

To Assemble and Serve:
Prepare a deep fryer. Fry 4 cubes of pork belly until golden brown and crispy. Glaze the belly with the braising liquid. Sauté the black-eyed peas, plantains, and carrots. Deglaze with the braising liquid and add butter. Season and add thyme. Dollop the yam purée off-center of the bottom of the middle of a plate and spread.  Place one cube at the left top of spread, another in the center of the plate, and another at the bottom of the plate. Spoon the black-eyed pea mixture on top of each piece of pork. Place a slice of the pepper jelly on top of each pork cube. Broil under the salamander for thirty seconds. Garnish with the micro Swiss chard.


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Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

Click here to register for ONE-WEEK FREE TRIAL of QuickMeals:
http://www.starchefs.com/recipes/quick_meals/offer.php

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