October 30, 2009 - Issue 185
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: A Focus on Sommeliers
2. 2009 Boston Rising Stars: Bios, Interviews, and Recipes
3. Against the Grain: Breaking the Boundaries of Food and Wine Pairing
4. Six Sommeliers, Interviewed
5. Glass Half Full? On the State of Restaurant Wine Sales in the Recession
6. A Passion for New Zealand Pinot Noir
7. Video Interview: Marcus Samuelsson on New American Table
8. Photo Galleries: Autumn Los Angeles Tastings
9. Featured Cookbook: Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Wine Course
10. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs JobFinder
11. Featured Sommelier to Know: Michael Shearin of Drago Central - Los Angeles, CA
12. Recipe for Grilled Hanger Steak from Chef Polly Lappetito of Greystone - St. Helena, CA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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Winston
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1. Letter from the Editor: A Focus on Sommeliers
It's high time we shift our attention to the major wine trends we've seen during our numerous tastings across the country. In this Dishrag, we present a slew of wine-related features, plus bios, recipes, and interviews from our esteemed Boston Rising Stars.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol51/index.shtml
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2. 2009 Boston Rising Stars: Bios, Interviews, and Recipes
From a neighborhood tapas joint to a tiny 22-seat sashimi bar, we're proud of our outstanding, diverse group of Boston Rising Stars and want to share with the world what makes them the cream of the crop. Read their bios and interviews to find out about their backgrounds, where they've worked, what trends they see on the rise, and what cooking and business tips they have for other chefs and industry professionals. And check out their recipes for their dishes that clinched it!
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2009/boston/index.shtml
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3. Against the Grain: Breaking the Boundaries of Food and Wine Pairing
At the 2009 International Chefs Congress, sommelier and hospitality expert Stephen Asprinio led a tasting seminar on the subject of pairing "outside the box" wines. His seminar left us with a lot of burning questions, so we followed up with this wine trailblazer to learn a lot more about the role of rules in wine pairing and how the sommelier can use them to improve the dining experience.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/features/html/wine-rules-stephen-asprinio/html/index.shtml
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4. Six Sommeliers, Interviewed
Check out our interviews with six sommeliers from across the US from New York, Seattle, New Orleans, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas. Find out what they have to say about how they got their start in wine, their inspired pairings, and where they see the industry going.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/six-sommeliers/html/index.shtml
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5. Glass Half Full? On the State of Restaurant Wine Sales in the Recession
When times are tight we tend to see luxury items drop one by one off of restaurant menus. Whether it's an extra shaving of white truffle or the organic nasturtiums on a salad, certain elements of the composed dish will fall prey first to the necessity of belt-tightening. But what happens to the wine list? When diners are forced to guard their wallets and curb their spending, how do they change their wine buying habits? We've surveyed chefs and sommeliers to find out how diners are behaving. Here's what we found.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/wine-survey/html/index.shtml
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6. A Passion for New Zealand Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir has become the signature red variety of New Zealand. Plantings were up 850% from 1996 to 2008, and it's now the country's second most-planted grape, after Chardonnay. At the 2009 International Chefs Congress, four wine experts met to discuss how the varietal is evolving in New Zealand. Here are the highlights.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/features/html/new-zealand-pinot/html/index.shtml
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Video Interview: Marcus Samuelsson on New American Table 7. Video Interview: Marcus Samuelsson on New American Table
In anticipation of his new cookbook, StarChefs.com Managing Editor Will Blunt sat down with Chef Marcus Samuelsson to discuss his journey—from his first day at Aquavit to the publication of his fourth book, and how New American Table captures Samuelsson's vision of American cuisine.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/marcus-samuelsson-new-american-table/html/index.shtml
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8. Photo Galleries: Autumn Los Angeles Tastings
Photos from recent tastings in sunny LA, including Tasting Kitchen, BLD Restaurant, The Foundry, Rustic Canyon, Riva, The Bazaar by Jose Andres, Sona, Sashi, Providence, Fig at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel Santa Monica, Gordon Ramsay at the London, Pizzeria Mozza, XIV by Michael Mina, Huckleberry, and the American Food & Wine Festival.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
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9. Featured Cookbook: Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Wine Course
Windows on the World: Complete Wine Course
Kevin Zraly
Sterling
2008

With Windows on the World: Complete Wine Course, renowned wine writer Kevin Zraly diffuses the essence of his famous, decades-old wine class into one encompassing book. Zraly, who taught his first wine course at twenty-one, has spent nearly four decades passing on his great respect for wine to thousands of thirsty students. With professional partnerships with wine giants like Robert Parker, Zraly speaks from an authoritative perspective without abandoning the basic awe and curiosity for wine that he's nurtured since youth. Breaking down the overpopulated world of vintners into region and variety, Zraly makes the intimidating first steps into wine both manageable and rewarding. And for those more advanced students of enology, Zraly goes into great instructional detail on wine selection and appreciation. What permeates throughout is Zraly's lifelong, infectious enthusiasm and thirst for wine.
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Belgian Beer and Food

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10. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs JobFinder
Manager/Sommelier
Independent DC Restaurant
Komi
District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257800&positionid=

Restaurant Manager
Wine Country Restaurant Seeks Management Candidates
the girl & the fig
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255480&positionid=

Line Cook- Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Come work on the farm!
Blue Hill & Blue Hill at Stone Barns
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253300&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Join the Team at 4-Star Boston Restaurant
Clio Restaurant
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257780&positionid=

Pastry Sous Chef
Opportunity of a Lifetime
Thomas Keller Restaurant Group
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253380&positionid=

Cook - Sirio Ristorante
Fresh and Exciting Italian Restaurant
CityCenter
Las Vegas
Nevada
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254385&positionid=

Chef de Partie
Great Chef de Partie Opportunity in Chicago
Alinea
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254740&positionid=

Sous Chef
Motivated Sous Chef for Busy Restaurant
The Old Fashioned
Wisconsin
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255441&positionid=

Chef - Real Farm-to-Table Challenge (Pacific Northwest)
An exciting opportunity for a hard-working, dedicated, passionate chef
Anonymous
West, USA
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257421&positionid=

Editorial Internship
Editorial Intern Opportunities at Culinary Website
StarChefs.com
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257300&positionid=
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11. Featured Sommelier to Know: Michael Shearin of Drago Central - Los Angeles, CA
Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs To Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

Michael Shearin
Sommelier
Drago Centro
525 South Flower Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 228-8998

Work History: Las Vegas, NV: Bouchon, Craft Steak, Guy Savoy, Bradley Ogden, DJT at Trump International Hotel
Affiliations: The Court of Master Sommeliers
Favorite Wine Book: Tom Stevenson's Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia and Kevin Zraly's Wines Around the World for good basis of information. I always carry around Michael Broadbent's pocket vintage book.
Favorite Pairing: Something we did at DJT: sea trout with pink grapefruit and yuzu foam and a 1999 Riesling Cuvee. '99 Gewurztraminer ages well, and lychee tropical flavors and pink grapefruit character comes through.
Favorite Wine Regions: Always Spain because it's so fascinating. Regions like Jumilla, Monastrell, and some of the whites-not just Albarino. I got to meet the people at Muga Winery in La Rioja in the past; it means a lot to me when I get to meet the people who make the wines.
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12. Recipe for Grilled Hanger Steak from Chef Polly Lappetito of Greystone - St. Helena, CA
Grilled Hanger Steak, Yukon Gold Potato, Celery Leaf Salad, Gorgonzola Fondue
Chef Polly Lappetito of Greystone Wine Spectator Restaurant - St. Helena, CA
Adapted by StarChefs.com

Yield: 6 Servings

INGREDIENTS

Gorgonzola Fondue:
1 sprig fresh thyme
2 shallots, diced
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 pint white wine
1 pint chicken stock
1 pint heavy cream
¼ cup gorgonzola

Fried Shallots:
½ cup thinly sliced shallots
1 tablespoon rice flour
1 pint fryer oil
Salt and pepper

Celery Leaf Salad:
1 cup celery leaves
½ cup sliced light green inner stalks celery, sliced paper thin on a bias
½ cup parsley leaves
2 tablespoons brunoise shallots, marinated in red wine vinaigrette
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

To Assemble and Serve:
6 6-ounce hanger steaks
6 Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced thinly
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

METHOD

For the Gorgonzola Fondue:
Add thyme, shallots, peppercorns, bay leaf, and white wine. Reduce by ¾. Add the stock and reduce by half. Add the cream and reduce by half. Bring the sauce to a simmer and whisk in the gorgonzola.

For the Fried Shallots:
Toss the shallot rings in rice flour. Add to cold oil over medium heat. Cook the shallots until almost brown, stirring occasionally. Remove from the oil and drain onto paper towels. Season and let cool.

For the Celery Leaf Salad:
Combine the celery leaves, celery stalks, parsley, shallots, lemon zest, garlic, and pine nuts. In a separate bowl, combine the vinegar, chives, and parsley; whisk together while adding in the olive oil. Season and dress the salad mixture with the vinaigrette.

To Assemble and Serve:
Preheat a medium-hot fryer and a hot grill. Par-cook the potatoes in the fryer. Transfer the potatoes to a sauté pan and cook until crispy. Grill the steak to desired doneness. Arrange the celery leaf salad on a plate. Place the hanger steak next to the salad. Ladle the gorgonzola sauce over the steak. Garnish with the fried shallots.
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StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders


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