October 16, 2009 - Issue 184
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: Fall is Restaurant Season
2. When to Walk Away from a Restaurant Deal (Plus Audio and Video)
3. Six Recipes for Fall Farm Fresh Produce
4. Technique: House-Made Burrata with Chef Todd Winer of The Metropolitan Club - Boston, MA
5. Opening Coppa: Q&A with Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Boston's Toro
6. From Chef to F&B Manager: The Sean Hardy Story
7. Featured Cookbook Blurb: John Besh's My New Orleans
8. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
9. Featured Chef to Know: Chef Akhtar Nawab formerly of Elettaria - New York, NY
10. Recipe for Crab Blossoms with Blood Orange Vinaigrette from Diana Staravidis of BLD - Los Angeles, CA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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the amazing avocado

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1. Letter from the Editor: Fall is Restaurant Season
As the leaves turn and fall, and the squash, cloves, and Brussels sprouts make their way to plates across the country, here is a rundown of our latest features and our upcoming editorial travels. And make your 2010 Rising Stars nominations!
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol50/index.shtml
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2. When to Walk Away from a Restaurant Deal (Plus Audio and Video)
During the International Chefs Congress, chefs Josh DeChellis, Joe Isidori, Paul Liebrandt, Akhtar Nawab, and Norman Van Aken and assembled to discuss their respective experiences in restaurant ventures that took a turn for the worse. The panel provided a tremendous amount of insight for chefs-especially in the tumult of the current business environment. Listen to the audio of the ICC presentation and watch an exclusive video interview with Liebrandt as he discusses his past and present deals.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/when-to-walk-away/html/index.shtml
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3. Six Recipes for Fall Farm Fresh Produce
Persimmon, pear, cauliflower, fennel, and cranberries-these are just five greenmarket gems you can source locally around the country right now. Find out how six chefs from New York, Colorado, Georgia, Chicago, and DC, are pairing sea bass, wild boar, and squab (among others) with these seasonal fruits and vegetables.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/farm_fresh/fall/2009/html/index.shtml
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4. Technique: House-Made Burrata with Chef Todd Winer of The Metropolitan Club - Boston, MA
The cream-filled cousin to mozzarella, burrata literally means "buttered," hinting at the rich interior of what looks like regular mozzarella cheese. Chef Todd Winer of The Metropolitan Club in Boston developed a technique to make burrata in-house, entirely sidestepping the need to source it for the restaurant. Here's how to do it, plus a recipe for his Caprese salad.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/todd-winer-burrata/html/index.shtml
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5. Opening Coppa: Q&A with Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Boston's Toro
At the un-opened Coppa in Boston's South End, chefs Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer are planning a neighborhood-driven Italian version of Toro, complete with wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and small plates. What are the challenges? How did the concept come about? What are these "chef's chefs" looking to achieve? We grilled Bissonnette for answers.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/jamie-bissonnette/html/index.shtml
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6. From Chef to F&B Manager: The Sean Hardy Story
2006 LA Rising Star Sean Hardy of the Peninsula Hotel recently decided to make a career switch from executive chef to F&B manager. What exactly prompted the switch? What can other chefs learn from Hardy's experience? Find out the pros and cons of Hardy's career move, plus what he likes about his new lifestyle in this interview.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/sean-hardy/html/index.shtml
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7. Featured Cookbook Blurb: John Besh's My New Orleans
My New Orleans: The Cookbook
John Besh
Andrews McMeel Publishing, Canada
October 2009

Prolific chef and Louisiana champion John Besh presents this ode to his hometown in a format that straddles memoir and cookbook. Especially in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, New Orleans and the environs seem like a precious but essential element of Americana, with its regional specialty cuisine providing the equivalent of a spice-and-sugar-rim on the national cocktail. With this beautifully illustrated book, Besh aims to preserve the mosaic of regional flavors of Louisiana. With an emphasis on the distinctive ingredients that make up Louisiana cooking, Besh breaks down the book by ingredients, region, and events. Chapters like "Strawberries and Citrus," "Shrimp Season" and "Creole Tomatoes" appear alongside occasion-oriented chapters like "Feast Days" and "Thanksgiving". Chefs unfamiliar with Louisiana can use this native-made resource to incorporate the exotic flavors and textures of New Orleans into their cooking.
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Winston
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8. Top 10 Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Restaurant Floor Manager
Beard nominated chef seeks floor managers in Chicago
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257560&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Join the Team at 4-Star Boston Restaurant
Clio Restaurant
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257780&positionid=

Executive Chef
Executive Chef at Marine Corps Air Station in Japan
Marine Corps Community Services
Asia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257840&positionid=

Manager/Sommelier
Independent DC Restaurant Seeks Wine Professional
Komi
District of Columbia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257800&positionid=

Sous Chef
Motivated Chef Needed for High-End Restaurant
Starr Restaurant Organization
Pennsylvania, New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257801&positionid=

Cooks
Cook at the Happiest Place on Earth
Walt Disney World Resort
Florida
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257742&positionid=

Chef - Tapas
Chefs/Sous for Renowned Tapas Group
Barcelona Restaurant Grp.
Connecticut
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257740&positionid=

Director of Operations
Director of Operations in Panama
Concordia Partners
Panama
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257720&positionid=

Executive Chef
Upscale Mediterranean-Influenced Gastropub
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257760&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
High Volume Campus Dining
Cal Poly Corp.
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=257700&positionid=

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9. Featured Chef to Know: Chef Akhtar Nawab formerly of Elettaria - New York, NY
Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs To Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

Akhtar Nawab

CHEF FACTS
Cuisine: Eclectic American
Born: 1972
Began Career: 1992
Culinary School: The California Culinary Academy
Grad Year: 1992
Stages: San Francisco, CA: Jardiniere; Chicago, IL: Charlie Trotter's
Work History: New York, NY: Craft Bar, The E.U; San Francisco, CA: Bizou
Mentors: Loretta Keller, Tom Colicchio
Awards: 2007 StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef New York
Affiliation: Green Restaurant Association
Languages Spoken: Spanish
Notable Dishes: Pickled Beef Tongue with Porcinis and Marcona Almonds

FAST FACTS
Restaurant Recs: Oriental Garden in Chinatown NYC; Nicky's for Vietnamese Sandwiches; Mary's Fish Camp in the West Village
Kitchen Tools: Cake Tester; Winston CVap Cook and Hold Oven
Interview Question: Will you be here everyday doing your best?
Flavor Combinations: Asparagus and morels; pickled cherries and Szechuan peppers; cepes and marcona almonds.
Favorite Cookbooks: Grand Livre de Cuisine by Alain Ducasse; Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras
Chef to Cook For You: Fredy Girardet - I was too young when he was doing his thing, but he made some food that was really inspiring.
Culinary Travel: India - as I get older, I find the food more and more exciting. The regional cuisine is different in very suibtle ways. They take a lot of care in their flavoring and execution. Sicily reflects those values as well.
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10. Recipe for Crab Blossoms with Blood Orange Vinaigrette from Diana Staravidis of BLD - Los Angeles, CA
Yield: 8 Servings

INGREDIENTS

Tempura Batter:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup corn starch
1 pint soda water.
Salt and pepper

Blood Orange Vinaigrette:
2 ounces seasoned rice wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 ounce chopped shallots
6 ounces extra virgin olive oil
6 blood oranges, supremed

Squash Blossoms:
8 ounces goat cheese
3 ounces mascarpone cheese
3 ounces ricotta cheese
½ ounce chopped shallots
Zest of 1 lemon
½ ounce chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 ounce extra virgin olive oil
1 pound lump crabmeat
Salt and pepper
32 squash blossoms

To Assemble and Serve:
2 ounces microgreens

METHOD

For the Tempura Batter:
Combine the flour and cornstarch. Whisk in the soda water and season. Reserve chilled for at least 30 minutes.

For the Blood Orange Vinaigrette:
Combine the vinegar, mustard, and shallots. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season and add the blood orange supremes.

For the Squash Blossoms:
Preheat the fryer to 350F. Combine the goat cheese, mascarpone, ricotta, shallots, lemon zest, parsley, olive oil, and carefully fold the crabmeat. Season. Load the crab filling into a piping bag and pipe into each blossom, leaving enough room at the top to seal the flower shut.

To Assemble and Serve:
Dunk each blossom into the batter and deep fry for 1 minute or until lightly golden. Place 4 blossoms on the center of a plate. Dress the blossoms with the blood orange vinaigrette. Garnish with the microgreens.
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StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders


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