August 10, 2009 - Issue 179
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: It's All in the Mouthfeel
2. How Food Feels: Texture Takes a Starring Role
3. Spotlight on Uni, Nature's Textural Miracle
4. Meat Substitutes Need Not Apply: Demonstrating the Vegetable's Potential for Textural Variety
5. A New Role for Sponges in the Kitchen
6. Techniques: Egg Soufflé Sous Vide with Chef Raphael Peña of Gresca, Barcelona
7. On the Plate: Getting Textural in Madrid with Chef Palo Cortado of Senzone and Chef Ricardo Sanz of Kabuki
8. Take our Culinary Trends Survey and Enter for a Chance to Win ICC Passes!
9. Photo Gallery: Photos from Our Recent Tastings in Boston, MA
10. Don't Forget to Register for the 2009 International Chefs Congress!
11. Featured Cookbook: Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide by Thomas Keller
12. Top Ten Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
13. Featured Chef to Know: Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern - New York, NY
14. Recipe for Fettucine with Sardines, Currants, Fennel and Breadcrumbs from Christ Behr of SPQR - San Francisco, CA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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Letter From the Editor 1. Letter from the Editor: It's All in the Mouthfeel
In this issue we concentrate on one aspect of what's going into our mouths: texture. Join us as we sample the textural variety today's chefs are creating. From Spain's cutting-edge cuisine to the new face of vegetarianism in the States, we present a treasure of texturally surprising ingredients and preparations.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol47/
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The Impact of Texture 2. How Food Feels: Texture Takes a Starring Role
Whether it's the delicate crunch of tobiko or the silk of chocolate mousse, texture provides a vital component to the culinary experience. In this feature we consider texture in the abstract and in practice, as it's accentuated, manipulated, and celebrated by chefs across the country.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/textures/html/index.shtml
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Spotlight on Uni, Nature's Textural Miracle 3. Spotlight on Uni, Nature's Textural Miracle
Commonly considered a strictly Japanese ingredient, uni, or sea urchin gonads, has an increasing presence in restaurant kitchens across the world. With advocates like Chef Sotohiro Kosugi of New York's Soto and Ricardo Sanz of Madrid's Kabuki, and with its melting texture and fresh sea-brine flavor, uni has potential to earn a permanent, and ideally sustainable, place on American restaurant menus.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/uni/html/index.shtml
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High Concept Vegetarian Cuisine 4. Meat Substitutes Need Not Apply: Demonstrating the Vegetable's Potential for Textural Variety
Thanks to trailblazers like Roxanne's, Angelica's Kitchen, and Moosewoods, vegetarianism has earned a comfortable place in the American culinary repertoire. But chefs like Amanda Cohen of Dirt Candy and Jeremy Fox of Ubuntu have taken vegetarian eating a step further, giving garden ingredients the kind of centerpiece treatment that highlights the textural potential of seasonal, vegetarian cuisine.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/trends/high-concept-vegetarian/html/index.shtml
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Soaking Up Texture with Sponges 5. A New Role for Sponges in the Kitchen
It's not often that plastic deli containers, N20 cartridges, and green tea all have a place in the same dish, but Pastry Chef Ron Paprocki combines all of them with his innovative sponge-making technique. With its organic look and mouthfeel, the sponge has a new role to play as Chefs Parocki, Daniel Skurnick and Curtis Duffy use sweet and savory preparations to texturally enhance their dishes.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/sponges/html/index.shtml
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Technique: Egg Souffléed Sous Vide with Iberico Ham, Asparagus and Cream 6. Techniques: Egg Soufflé Sous Vide with Chef Raphael Peña of Gresca, Barcelona
Most ingredients require some degree of manipulation before they yield a desired texture. Chef Raphael Peña demonstrates an exquisitely deft hand at manipulating an ingredient's textural potential in the kitchen of Gresca. Check out our photo gallery to see Chef Peña's technique for transforming an egg into a billowing, golden-tinged pillow of egg white encasing a rich, velvety yolk.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/raphael-pena-egg-souffle/html/index.shtml
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On the Plate Vol. 20: Kabuki and Senzone - Madrid, Spain 7. On the Plate: Getting Textural in Madrid with Chef Palo Cortado of Senzone and Chef Ricardo Sanz of Kabuki
Innovative technique is nothing new in Spain's restaurant kitchens, but we're tasting with two of Madrid's innovative culinary "fundamentalists" who bring a respect for texture to every plate. Chefs Palo Cortado of Senzone and Ricardo Sanz of Kabuki show us how an emphasis on layering not only flavor, but texture, can transform sensational technique into sublime cuisine.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/plating/vol20/html/index.shtml
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2009 Culinary Trends Survey 8. Take our Culinary Trends Survey and Enter for a Chance to Win ICC Passes!
Take the StarChefs.com Culinary Trends Survey and tell us your thoughts on emerging trends in the culinary arts. You do not have to be an executive chef to complete this survey, but you must be a culinary professional. Upon completion of the survey, you will be automatically entered to win one of ten free 3-day passes to the upcoming StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/trends/culinary_trends_survey_2009/index.shtml
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Photo Gallery: Photos from Our Recent Tastings in Boston, MA 9. Photo Gallery: Photos from Our Recent Tastings in Boston, MA
Check out photos from our recent trip to Boston's best restaurants, including Sasso, Catch, Salts, Gran Gusto, Beacon Hill Hotel and Bistro, Gargoyles on the Square, Rialto, Natalie's, Sel de la Terra, Radius, Temple Bar, Via Matta, Aura, The Beehive, Tastings Wine Bar & Bistro, Troquet, Union Bar and Restaurant, Upstairs at the Square, TW Food, The Metropolitan Club, Garden at the Cellar, L'Espalier, Drink, and Clio.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
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Register for the 2009 International Chefs Congress 10. Don't Forget to Register for the 2009 International Chefs Congress!
This September 20-22nd, join us and some of the world's top chefs as we help define the concept of American cuisine and explore some of the culinary industry's most cutting-edge developments. Our exceptional lineup this year includes Juan Mari Arzak, Pierre Gagnaire, David Bouley, Yoshihiro Murata, Charles Phan, Paco Torreblanca, and more!

Follow the link below to register (use code DR-509):
http://www.starchefs.com/events/icc/2009/index.shtml
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Featured Cookbook: Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide by Thomas Keller 11. Featured Cookbook: Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide by Thomas Keller
(2008 Artisan, $75.00)

In this exquisitely photographed book, Thomas Keller provides a one-stop resource for sous vide technique, a certain if underused method for manipulating textures while preserving and intensifying flavors. One of the preferred cooking methods at The French Laundry, Per Se, and Bouchon, sous vide is a most appropriate star for Keller's first single-subject cookbook. Keller builds dishes from elements of flavor and texture; sous vide allows him the freedom to manipulate without diminishing the integrity of the ingredients. Food science writer Harold McGee offers an introduction to the basic chemistry of the technique, which Keller and his staff have honed over the course of years in a trial and error of culinary experimentation. As featured in Under Pressure, their perfected technique provides a stable plateau for the interplay of texture and flavor, guaranteeing sous vide a role in the future of American cuisine.
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Wisconsin Cheese - Artisans Find Inspiration in Wisconsin

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12. Top Ten Jobs from the StarChefs.com JobFinder
Restaurant Manager
Wine Country Restaurant Seeks Management Candidates
the girl & the fig
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255480&positionid=

Executive Chef
Upscale Restaurant Venture Seeks Experienced Executive Chef
Maine
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255760&positionid=

Sous-Chefs (Garde-Manger, Banquet and Restaurant)
Work for one of the best private clubs in the nation
Houston Country Club
Texas
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255720&positionid=

Part Time Chef Instructor
Passionate Culinary Instructors Needed
The Art Institute of California - San Francisco
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255460&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Professional Baker Needed for High-End Caribbean Restaurant
Ginger Root Cafe
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255220&positionid=

Executive Chef
Award Winning Chicago Caterer Seeks Experienced Executive Chef
Illinois
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255540&positionid=

Sous Chef
City's Top Restaurant Group Seeks Sous Chef
Buckhead Life Restaurant Grp.
Georgia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255840&positionid=

Executive Chef
Help us go from very good to great
Maryland
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255700&positionid=

Pastry chef, bread baker, tournant and line cooks
Upscale Casual Restaurant Opening Soon
Abe & Arthur's
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255380&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
Come join a dynamic Culinary Team at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel
Fairmont Miramar Hotel Santa Monica
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255501&positionid=

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    Featured Chef to Know: Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern - New York, NY 13. Featured Chef to Know: Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern - New York, NY
    Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs To Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
    http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

    Gabriel Kreuther
    Executive Chef
    9 W 53rd Street
    New York, NY 10019
    (212) 333-1220

    Restaurant Facts
    Seats: 75-80
    Weeknight Covers: 90-100
    Weekend Covers: 125-130
    Check Average (with Wine): $140-145
    Tasting Menu: Yes $115/$125
    Kitchen Staff: 8

    Chef Facts
    Cuisine: Contemporary and classic French
    Born: 1969
    Began Career: 1987
    Culinary School: L'École H?telière, France
    Grad Year: 1987
    Stages: Washington, DC: Le Caprice
    Work History: Washington, DC: Le Caprice, Colmar; France: Le Fer Rouge; Switzerland: L'Ermitage de Bernard Ravet; New York, NY: La Caravelle, Jean Georges, L'Atélier at The Ritz-Carlton Central Park
    Mentor(s): My uncle, Bernard Ravet, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten
    Awards: 2006 James Beard Foundation Best New Restaurant; 2006 James Beard Foundation Best Chef New York Nominee; 2006 1 Michelin Star; 2003 Food & Wine America's Best New Chefs; 2002 StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef New York
    Affiliations: James Beard Foundation
    Languages Spoken: French, German

    Notable Dish(es): Pan-Seared Sea Bass in a Lemon Verbena Broth; Peasant Flour Soup with Florida Frogs Legs and Scallions

    Fast Facts
    Restaurant Recs: Katz's Deli for a pastrami sandwich
    Kitchen Tool(s): Rubber spatula; spoon
    Interview Question: What are your long and short term culinary goals and how are you positioning yourself to achieve them? I want to get a sense for how committed and focused on their profession a potential candidate really is.
    Flavor Combo(s): Some combinations I have been using lately are: scallops, vanilla bean, lime zest, and toasted buckwheat; cauliflower panna cotta with orange vinaigrette and caviar; roasted trout with rhubarb emulsion.
    Fave Cookbook(s): Larousse Gastronimique and Le Repertoire de la Cuisine by Louis Saulnier - they are two very comprehensive and classic culinary guides that provided me with a solid knowledge of cooking.
    Chef to Cook for You: A guy in France: Jean Georges Klein. I like the way he thinks about food. He has an interesting perspective as he began in the front of house before he started cooking. His food is very flavorful.
    Culinary Travel: I think it would be intriguing to spend some time in Japan. I would like to get a closer look at their techniques and to see a traditional way of cooking and the way they use their products.
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    Nordaq FRESH Water Filtration 14. Recipe for Fettucine with Sardines, Currants, Fennel and Breadcrumbs from Christ Behr of SPQR - San Francisco, CA
    Yield: 6 Servings

    INGREDIENTS

    Pasta and Sardines:
    2 pounds dried semolina fettucine
    2 pounds fresh sardines, scaled, heads removed, deboned, with filets cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
    Salt and pepper

    Soffrito:
    Olive oil
    1 ½ quarts finely diced red onions
    1 ½ quarts finely diced fennel
    Pinch of dried red chile flakes
    1 ½ cups tomato paste
    1 cup dried currants rehydrated in hot water

    Breadcrumbs:
    Olive oil
    Stale bread, torn into ½ -inch chunks
    Salt and pepper

    METHOD

    For the Pasta and Sardines:
    Cook fettucine in generous amounts of heavily salted water until it is just about to reach the point of al dente. Meanwhile season sardine pieces with copious salt and pepper. Set aside.

    For the Sofrito:
    While the fettucine cooks, sweat onions, fennel and chilies in a generous amount of olive oil on low heat until vegetables are translucent. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce takes on a rusty color. Add hydrated currants with a splash of the soaking water. Cook the soffrito until it is thick and rich. Finished sauce should be somewhat oily.

    For the Breadcrumbs:
    Fry bread crumbs in generous olive oil. Drain well and crush in a mortar a pestle until you have pebble-sized pieces. Drain again on paper towels.

    To Assemble and Serve:
    Once fettucine is just before al dente, add it to the currant sofrito with a splash of the pasta cooking water. Toss and stir constantly, making sure to emulsify the pasta water and the oil from the sauce, for about 1 minute. Add sardine pieces and toss for one more minute to just barely cook the fish. Plate the fettucine, and top with a generous helping of friend breadcrumbs.
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    Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

    Click here to register for ONE-WEEK FREE TRIAL of QuickMeals:
    http://www.starchefs.com/recipes/quick_meals/offer.php

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    StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders


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