July 22, 2009 - Issue 178
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: More from California, Plus a Rundown of Our Recent Features
2. The Art and Economics of Charcuterie Part 4 with Chef Justin Everett of El Dorado-Sonoma, CA
3. Featured Mixologist Mike Yen of Nine-Ten-La Jolla, CA
4. Technique: Puffed Sushi Rice with Pastry Chef Daniel Carter of Go Fish-St. Helena, CA
5. Ask the Sommelier with Jesse Rodriguez of Addison-San Diego, CA
6. Fly on the Wall: Napa Sonoma Rising Stars Honorees Dinner
7. Napa Sonoma Top Wine and Food Pairings
8. Lessons from a Chef with 2005 San Francisco Rising Star Robbie Lewis
9. Photo Galleries: Our Latest New York Tastings
10. Featured Cookbook: Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition
11. Top 10 Jobs from StarChefs.com JobFinder
12. Featured Chef to Know: Chef Nancy Oakes of Boulevard-San Francisco, CA
13. Recipe for the Bee Sting Cocktail from Mixologist Frankie Thaheld of George's At The Cove-San Diego, CA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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Letter from the Editor: More from California, Plus a Rundown of Our Recent Features 1. Letter from the Editor: More from California, Plus a Rundown of Our Recent Features
Charcuterie in Sonoma, San Diego's cocktail scene, a technique for making Cocoa Crispies—these are just some of the features we've had on the backburner and wanted to publish while the weather's still hot.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol46/index.shtml
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The Art and Economics of Charcuterie Part 4 with Chef Justin Everett of El Dorado-Sonoma, CA 2. The Art and Economics of Charcuterie Part 4 with Chef Justin Everett of El Dorado-Sonoma, CA
Our fourth installment of a series focused on in-house charcuterie programs goes small-scale with El Dorado Kitchen chef Justin Everett's charcuterie-on-a-shoestring budget. Find out how he cures his meats in a custom made wooden chest, and watch two videos of Everett making cured pork loin and garlic sausage (plus recipes).
http://www.starchefs.com/features/trends/art_and_economics_of_charcuterie/justin-everett/html/index.shtml
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Featured Mixologist Mike Yen of Nine-Ten-La Jolla, CA 3. Featured Mixologist Mike Yen of Nine-Ten-La Jolla, CA
In San Diego, self-taught Mixologist Mike Yen is breathing fresh air into the local cocktail scene. Yen slings drinks in his own fun, adventurous style, serving cocktails like his smoked bourbon (with dry ice) and a Key lime cocktail (using muddled cereal) paired with Jello shots. Here's an interview with Yen, plus four recipes from this mixologist who is breaking the mold behind the bar.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/mixology/mixologist-mike-yen/html/index.shtml
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Technique: Puffed Sushi Rice with Pastry Chef Daniel Carter of Go Fish 4. Technique: Puffed Sushi Rice with Pastry Chef Daniel Carter of Go Fish-St. Helena, CA
At Cindy Pawlcyn's Napa Valley seafood and sushi restaurant Go Fish, Pastry Chef Daniel Carter cleverly employs sushi rice to create an original (yet familiar) component in his pastry dishes. Learn the technique and watch our video of Carter using the rice to make the childhood staple of Cocoa Crispies.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/daniel-carter/html/index.shtml
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Ask the Sommelier with Jesse Rodriguez of Addison-San Diego, CA 5. Ask the Sommelier with Jesse Rodriguez of Addison-San Diego, CA
As sommelier for the Del Mar resort in San Diego, The French Laundry veteran Jesse Rodriguez's is all about offering guests something they wouldn't see in any other restaurant. One of those things is a one-of-a-kind collection of private label wines from small producers around the world. Here's the interview, plus a series of useful wine tips.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/ask_Sommelier/Jesse-Rodriguez/index.shtml
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Fly on the Wall: Napa Sonoma Rising Stars Honorees Dinner 6. Fly on the Wall: Napa Sonoma Rising Stars Honorees Dinner
A behind-the-scenes look at our most recent Rising Stars chef and mentor dinner, hosted by Chef Ken Frank at Napa's La Toque on June 16th, 2009.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/fly_on_the_wall/2009-napa-sonoma-honorees/html/index.shtml
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Napa Sonoma Top Wine and Food Pairings 7. Napa Sonoma Top Wine and Food Pairings
A good wine pairing isn't difficult to come across, but a spectacular one is quite another thing. Here are some favorites from a past trip to the Californian wine country, including Pinot Noir paired with foie gras and eel, a German Riesling matched with black cod and gingered prawns, and the most leathery Pinot Noir we've ever come across, paired with poussin.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/top_pairs/2009-napa/html/index.shtml
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Lessons from a Chef with 2005 San Francisco Rising Star Robbie Lewis 8. Lessons from a Chef with 2005 San Francisco Rising Star Robbie Lewis
Chef Robbie Lewis traded in a life behind the hot line for a corporate chef gig that enabled him to balance work and family life. Was it a satisfying career change for him? Here's a look at how his career has evolved-through his own words in a recent letter to the editor.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/robbie-lewis/html/index.shtml
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Photo Galleries: Our Latest New York Tastings 9. Photo Galleries: Our Latest New York Tastings
Photos from recent tastings at New York City's Commerce, Aldea, Gilt, Bar Blanc, Bar Breton, L'Artusi, 10 Downing, Morimoto, Gordon Ramsay at the London, and an upstate tasting at Blue Hill at Stone Barns.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
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Featured Cookbook: Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition 10. Featured Cookbook: Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition
Gerald Hirigoyen with Lisa Weiss
(2009, Ten Speed Press) $24.95

Small plates have exploded onto the culinary scene in the past few years. We've shared Greek meze, Italian stuzucchini, ample sliders, and of course, Spanish tapas. California style pintxos (the word for tapas in Basque country) are celebrated in this tantalizing book by Spanish-born chef Gerald Hirigoyen. Lauded in San Francisco for his two restaurants, Piperade and Bocadillos, Hirigoyen brings the convivial nature and experience of sharing pinxtos to life through his animated descriptions of each plate. From the familiar Serrano Ham Croquettes to Spicy and Sweet Chicken wings inspired by San Francisco's Chinatown, each dish is accompanied by a wine pairing suggestion-a must have component of the lively pintxos experience.

And check out our new cookbooks section:
http://www.starchefs.com/cook/cookbooks/a
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Winston
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11. Top 10 Jobs from StarChefs.com JobFinder
Marketing Internship
Great Opportunity to Join Our Marketing Team
StarChefs.com
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255120&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
Culinary Excellence above the Rest
Hotel ZaZa
Texas
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255320&positionid=

Executive Chef
Michelin Level Chef
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255240&positionid=

Sous Chef
Sous Chef opportunity at Trellis
The Heathman Hotel/Trellis Restaurant
Washington
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255221&positionid=

Pastry Chef
Professional Baker Needed for High-End Caribbean Restaurant
Ginger Root Cafe
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255220&positionid=

Executive Chef
Executive Chef for #1 Resort in USA/Canada, #14 in World
The Inn at Palmetto Bluff
South Carolina
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255260&positionid=

Pastry chef, bread baker, tournant and line cooks
Upscale Casual Restaurant Opening Soon
Abe & Arthur's
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255380&positionid=

Sous Chef
Luxury hotel across from the White House
The Hay-Adams
Washington DC
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255400&positionid=

Executive Chef
Incredible Career Opportunity at James Beard/F&W Mag Award-Winning Restaurant
Brad Metzger Restaurant Solutions
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255340&positionid=

Chef de Cuisine
Great Opportunity in University Dining
Stanford Dining
California
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255361&positionid=

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Chef Nancy Oakes of Boulevard-San Francisco 12. Featured Chef to Know: Chef Nancy Oakes of Boulevard-San Francisco, CA
Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs To Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

Nancy Oakes
Chef/Owner Boulevard
1 Mission St. San Francisco, CA 94105

Restaurant Facts
Seats: 175
Weekend Covers: 290+
Check Average (with Wine): $90
Tasting Menu: No
Kitchen Staff: 14

Chef Facts
Cuisine: French-influenced New American
Born: 1951
Began Career: 1978
Work History: San Francisco, CA: L'Avenue, Barnacle, Alexis on Nob Hill
Awards: 2004, 2002 James Beard Foundation Outstanding Service; 1997-2001 James Beard Foundation Best Chef California Nominee; 1998-2000 San Francisco Chronicle Reader's Poll Number 1 Restaurant; 1997 Wine Spectator Top 7 San Francisco Restaurants
Affiliations: We have a strong tie with the charity Meals-on-Wheels of San Francisco, although we also do a number of other charities every year. Organizations include WCR, Les Dames d'Escoffier and James Beard Foundation.
Books Published: Boulevard

Fast Facts
Restaurant Recs: Pizzaiolo in Oakland for crisp pizzas and fresh preparations
Kitchen Tool: Japanese mandolin - for ease of preparation
Interview Question: What was the last serious thing you cooked for yourself and/or friends and when? This shows passion, dedication, and creativity.
Flavor Combos: I tend to think in terms of balance and texture, like flake salt and butter or beefy richness with horseradish cream, or crispy stick braised bacon and high acid tomatoes.
Favorite Cookbooks: Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent by Jeffry Alford and Naomi Duguid
Chef to Cook for You: Jo?l Robuchon
Culinary Travel: I would like to return to Sicily. There is a lot going on there right now, with chefs returning home and opening up places after working abroad, and all of the great locally grown, biodynamic products.
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the Bee Sting Cocktail from Mixologist Frankie Thaheld of George's At The Cove-San Diego, CA made possible by koerner13. Recipe for the Bee Sting Cocktail from Mixologist Frankie Thaheld of George's At The Cove-San Diego, CA
Yield: 1 Cocktail

INGREDIENTS
Honey Syrup:
½ cup water
½ cup honey

To Assemble and Serve:
2 kumquats, halved
1 piece ginger
1½ ounces Ketel One Vodka
½ ounce bottle Green Lemon Grass-Ginger Cordial
½ ounce honey syrup


METHOD
For the Honey Syrup:
Combine honey and hot water. Mix thoroughly and chill.

To Assemble and Serve:
In a mixing glass, muddle the kumquats. Grate ginger over a small strainer, letting 3-4 drops of the juice drip into the mixing glass. Add vodka, cordial, syrup, and ice. Shake a strain mixture into an old fashioned cocktail glass.
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StarChefs.com . . . the magazine for culinary insiders


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