July 9, 2009 - Issue 177
The Dishrag Newsletter
   

IN THIS ISSUE
1. Letter from the Editor: Back to Beantown
2. House-Made Artisanal Vermouth, When It's Done in Your Bar
3. Technique: Razor Clams a la Plancha with Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Toro-Boston, MA
4. Featured Sommelier: Chas Boynton of Restaurant Dante-Boston, MA
5. Featured Pastry Chef Maura Kilpatrick of Oleana and Sofra-Boston, MA
6. Featured Mixologist: Jackson Cannon of Eastern Standard-Boston, MA
7. Seattle Chef Christine Keff on Keeping Employees Motivated
8. The Heat is On: Results from Our Range Survey
9. Featured Video: Johnny Iuzzini's Sliced-Up Dessert Foreplay
10. Don't Forget to Register for the 2009 International Chefs Congress!
11. Photo Galleries From Recent Tastings in Boston
12. Fill Out Our Wine Survey (For a Chance to Win a Trip to Vegas)
13. Featured Cookbook: Wine Mondays: Simple Wine Pairings with Seasonal Menus
14. Top 10 Jobs from StarChefs JobFinder.com
15. Featured Chef to Know: Amanda Lydon of Straight Wharf Restaurant-Nantucket Island, MA
16. Recipe for Carne Asada Taco from Chef Brian Roche of La Verdad-Boston, MA

StarChefs.com...the magazine for culinary insiders. Visit http://www.starchefs.com

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1. Letter from the Editor: Back to Beantown
Our third tasting trip through Boston is underway and we can't wait to discover what else awaits our taste buds in this city that has welcomed us as family. Here are some highlights of what we've tasted already, plus a rundown of our current features.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/letter/vol45
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2. House-Made Artisanal Vermouth, When It's Done in Your Bar
Mixologists around the country have been getting into bitters and home-made infusions, but what's next on the artisanal front? We've collected tips and know-how from the mixologists who are blazing the house-made vermouth trail. Here are the basics, plus 3 recipes for vermouth and two cocktails that incorporate it.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/mixology/artisanal-vermouth/html/index.shtml
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3. Technique: Razor Clams a la Plancha with Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Toro-Boston, MA
Simple dishes using simple techniques are what a cook likes to indulge in after a night of service, and this is precisely makes Jamie Bissonette a "chef's chef". Here's his Spanish technique (on video) for preparing fresh razor clams on his plancha.
http://www.starchefs.com/events/studio/techniques/jamie-bissonnette/html/index.shtml
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4. Featured Sommelier: Chas Boynton of Restaurant Dante-Boston, MA
Boynton is running the wine program at Dante in Cambridge, MA, where his goal is to provide unusual but affordable wines to match the restaurant's comforting Italian food. Here's his interview, plus some valuable wine tips for sommeliers.
http://www.starchefs.com/wine/starvintners/html/chas-boynton/html/index.shtml
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5. Featured Pastry Chef Maura Kilpatrick of Oleana and Sofra-Boston, MA
A master at incorporating Middle Eastern flavors into visually striking desserts, Ana Sortun's pastry chef is also behind a café that serves ethereal food in a neighborhood setting. Here's her interview plus two recipes.
http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/pastry/MKilpatrick/html/index.shtml
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6. Featured Mixologist: Jackson Cannon of Eastern Standard-Boston, MA
As one of the senior mixologists on Boston's established cocktail scene, Jackson Cannon runs the bar at one of the most successful restaurants in the city. Here's an interview with this mentor and vermouth artisan, plus his biography and two cocktail recipes.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/mixology/jackson-cannon/html/index.shtml
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7. Seattle Chef Christine Keff on Keeping Employees Motivated
While other restaurants have been struggling to stay open during the downswing in the economy, Chef Keff's Flying Fish in Seattle has successfully weathered the storm. We talked with Keff about her plans for keeping the restaurant exciting, how she's survived in this economy, and what she wishes she's done differently.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/christine-keff/html/index.shtml
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8. The Heat is On: Results from Our Range Survey
We've polled chefs on everything from blenders to whippers, but now its time to talk about the centerpiece of the kitchen: the range. What brands do chefs use? What features do chefs look for in a range? Here are the results.
http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/range-survey/html/index.shtml
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9. Featured Video: Johnny Iuzzini's Sliced-Up Dessert Foreplay
Jean-Georges Pastry Chef Johnny Iuzzini is known for his colorful, multi-component desserts that stem from a solid foundation in French pastry technique and and a love for hydrocolloids. But what happens when a Hobart 3000 Slicer falls into his hands?
http://www.starchefs.com/acquia/content/carrot-cake-carrot-crisps-crispy-brown-butter-gel
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10. Don't Forget to Register for the 2009 International Chefs Congress!
This September 20-22nd, join us and some of the world's top chefs as we help define the concept of American cuisine and explore some of the culinary industry's most cutting-edge developments. Our exceptional lineup this year includes Grant Achatz, Daniel Boulud, Juan Mari Arzak, Pierre Gagnaire, David Bouley, Yoshihiro Murata, Charles Phan, Paco Torreblanca, and more!

Follow the link below to register (use code DR-709):
http://www.starchefs.com/events/icc/2009/index.shtml
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11. Photo Galleries From Recent Tastings in Boston
Photos from tastings at Boston's Oleana, Clio, La Verdad, Hungry Mother, Uni, Dante, Tremont 647, L'Espalier, Toro, Bambara, Lyric, Clink, Kingfish Hall, Harvest, Myers+Chang, Asana, Bonfire, Sorellina, Sofra, Bin 26, Mistral, Eastern Standard, and Craigie on Main.
http://www.starchefs.com/Gallery/Index.shtml
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12. Fill Out Our Wine Survey (For a Chance to Win a Trip to Vegas)
Take a moment to tell us what you think about the wine program in your restaurant and enter for a chance to win a trip for two to Las Vegas!
Take the 2009 Wine Survey
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13. Featured Cookbook: Wine Mondays: Simple Wine Pairings with Seasonal Menus
Frank McClelland and Christine Matheson
(2009, The Harvard Common Press) $24.95

When proprietor Frank McClelland introduced his four course wine paired dinners at Boston's renowned L'Espalier restaurant on Monday nights, he had an instant hit on his hands. L'Espalier's Wine Mondays were a way to introduce and educate diners on pairing wines with a fantastic seasonally-inspired meal in an approachable, fun, and straightforward fashion. McClelland has selected 16 of his favorite menus from Wine Mondays over the years-four for each season-applying his casual approach and philosophy on food and wine to the recipes and pairings included. Each menu is centered around a seasonal theme ranging from Winter's Bordeaux and Spring's Rosé-Colored Glasses, to Summer's Totally Organic and Autumn's Mushroom Dinner. McClelland encourages his readers to use the book as a reference rather than a formal set guide, asserting his number one rule: drink what you like!
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The iSi Whipper: Endless Possibilities
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14. Top 10 Jobs from StarChefs JobFinder.com
PR Internship
Immediate Opening for Ambitious PR Intern
StarChefs.com
New York
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255040&positionid=

Line cook/ Banquet/ Garde Manger
Best of Boston 2008
Charter Oak Country Club
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254820&positionid=

Executive Sous Chef
Private Island
Caribbean
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255041&positionid=

Line Cook
Experienced Line Cook sought immediately for Fine Dining
The Inn at Perry Cabin
Maryland
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255060&positionid=

Specialty Restaurant Chef
Great Opportunity to Work With Renowned Chefs
Marriott International
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253600&positionid=

Creative Executive Chef and Sous Chef Needed
Searching for Philly's Creative Chefs
Pennsylvania
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=255000&positionid=

Line Cook
Sustainable, Local, Fine Dining Cuisine
IH Acquisitions, LLC
Virginia
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254901&positionid=

Chocolatier
Pastry Chef for Upscale Chocolaterie and Patisserie
Aroa Fine Chocolate LLC
Massachusetts
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253500&positionid=

Master Cook - Blossom
Experienced Cooks Needed
CityCenter Las Vegas
Nevada
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=254388&positionid=

Assistant Kitchen Manager and Sous Chef Positions Available
Kitchen Manager Training Program
Hillstone Restaurant Grp.
Florida, Louisiana , Georgia, Massachusetts, Maryland, Arizona , California, New Jersey, Colorado, Illinois, District of Columbia, New York, Texas
http://www.starchefsjobfinder.com/js-jobinfo.php?s=-1&t=j&v=253501&positionid=


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    15. Featured Chef to Know: Amanda Lydon of Straight Wharf Restaurant-Nantucket Island, MA
    Excerpt taken from the 2nd edition of the StarChefs.com Chefs To Know: A Guide To Chefs for Chefs available for $24.95 through
    http://www.starchefs.com/shopping/

    Amanda Lydon
    Chef/Owner
    Straight Wharf Restaurant
    6 Harbor Square Nantucket Island, MA 02554
    Phone: (508) 228-4499

    RESTAURANT FACTS
    Seats: 100-140
    Weeknight Covers: 180
    Weekend Covers: 180
    Check Average (with Wine): $85
    Tasting Menu: No
    Kitchen Staff: 4-8

    CHEF FACTS
    Cuisine: Seasonal sustainable seafood
    Born: 1971
    Began Career: 1991
    Stages: Spain: Martin Beratasegui; France: L'Abbaye de Sainte Croix
    Work History: Boston, MA: Straight Wharf, Chez Henri, Truc, Radius, Upstairs on the Square, Ten Tables
    Mentors: Deborah Hughes, Mary Catherine Diebel
    Awards: 2006 StarChefs.com Rising Star Chef Boston; 200 Food & Wine Best New Chef; 2000 Boston Magazine Best New Chef; 2000 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Nominee
    Languages Spoken: Enough French to order a good dinner

    NOTABLE DISHES: Chantenay Carrot Gnocchi, Braised Rabbit, Pickled Ramps and Pecorino; Pistachio Financier, Tarragon Ice Cream and Apricot

    FAST FACTS:
    Restaurants Recs: Jumbo Seafood; Café D; City Feed and Supply
    Kitchen Tool: Japanese mandolin; meat grinder; pasta machine
    Interview Question: Whose food do you love? What do you read for inspiration?
    Flavor Combo(s): At the moment: pear, celery lemon, and parmesan salad; wood grilled duck with rhubarb tartine; swordfish with smoked shiitakes and ginger
    Fave Cookbook: A Return to Cooking by Eric Ripert; Sunday Supper at Lucques by Suzanne Goin; The Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rodgers
    Chef to Cook for You: Alain Passard
    Culinary Travel: Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, India
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    French Culinary Institute 16. Recipe for Carne Asada Taco from Chef Brian Roche of La Verdad-Boston, MA
    Adapted by StarChefs.com
    July 2009

    Yield: 4 Servings

    INGREDIENTS
    Steak:
    8 ounces skirt steak
    1 cup cola
    ¼ cup soy sauce
    2 ounces sliced onion
    3 cloves of garlic, chopped

    Guacamoleo:
    1 avocado
    ½ onion
    ½ jalapeno
    1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
    1 clove garlic
    1 teaspoon lime juice
    Salt and pepper

    Salsa Arbol:
    5 tomatillos
    ½ onion
    2 cloves garlic
    1 jalapeno
    1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
    4 ounces arbol dried chile pepper
    1 tablespoon oil

    Caramelized Onion Purée:
    1 onion

    To Assemble and Serve:
    1 tortilla
    1 tablespoon caramelized onion purée
    1 teaspoon salsa arbol
    1 teaspoon guacamoleo
    1 teaspoon minced red onion
    1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

    METHOD:
    For the steak:
    Combine steak with cola, soy sauce, onion, and garlic. Marinate for at least 4 hours.

    For the Guacamoleo:
    Prepare a grill. Grill onion, jalapeno, and garlic until slightly charred. Place in blender with cilantro and avocado. Add lime juice and water until desired consistency has been reached and season.

    For the Salsa Arbol:
    Combine tomatillo, onion, garlic, and jalapeno. Cover with water and boil until tomato is tender. Strain off water, saving ½ cup. Add tomatillo, onion, garlic, and jalapeno cilantro to blender. Puree, adding water to bring to sauce consistency. In a separate pan on high heat, add oil and chile peppers. Fry for 30-45 seconds or until skin has blistered. Add chiles to blender one at a time and puree until desired spice level has been reached.

    For the Caramelized Onion Puree:
    Slice one large onion place in pan and cook until onion turns an amber color. Puree in food processor or blender.

    To Assemble and Serve:
    Grill steak until desired temperature. Spread onion purée onto the tortilla. Add steak, and top with salsa arbol, guacamoleo, red onion, and cilantro.

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    Recipes don't have to be complicated to be delicious. Check out QuickMeals and learn celebrity chefs' secrets for preparing fast and easy weeknight recipes.

    Click here to register for ONE-WEEK FREE TRIAL of QuickMeals:
    http://www.starchefs.com/recipes/quick_meals/offer.php

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